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Tashiding Monastery, Sikkim

Tashiding Monastery, nestled atop a heart-shaped hill in West Sikkim, is one of the most sacred and spiritually revered sites in Tibetan Buddhism.

Founded in 1641 by Ngadak Sempa Chempo Phunshok Rigzing, a key figure in the coronation of Sikkim’s first king, the monastery belongs to the Nyingma sect and is often referred to as the “Heart of Sikkim” due to its central religious significance.

It overlooks the confluence of the Rathong and Rangeet rivers, with panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayan landscape, including the majestic Kanchenjunga range.

The monastery complex is a harmonious blend of spiritual architecture and natural serenity. At its entrance stands the Mani Lhakhang, adorned with prayer flags and stone tablets inscribed with the sacred mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum.” This leads to the main temple, known as Chogyal Lhakhang, which houses statues of Guru Padmasambhava, Buddha Shakyamuni, and Avalokiteshvara (Chenrezig), surrounded by thangkas and ritual offerings. Nearby is the Butter Lamp House, where butter lamps are lit as offerings, and the Tsenkhang, a structure used for protective rituals.

One of the most spiritually potent structures is the Thong-Wa-Rang-Dol Chorten, a stupa believed to cleanse one’s sins simply by being seen. The monastery also features a cluster of chortens (stupas) that preserve relics of Sikkim’s kings and lamas, and a library housing ancient Tibetan scriptures. Surrounding the complex are prayer wheels, which devotees spin while chanting mantras, and residential quarters for monks dedicated to study and meditation.

Tashiding Monastery is also the site of the annual Bhumchu Festival, held in the first month of the Tibetan lunar calendar. During this event, a sacred vase filled with holy water is opened to predict the fortunes of the coming year—a ritual rooted in centuries-old tantric traditions. The monastery’s architecture, legends, and rituals make it not only a pilgrimage destination but also a living testament to Sikkim’s spiritual heritage.

Start of the climb that leads to the monastery


Prayer wheels
The steep path leading up to Tashiding Monastery in Sikkim is flanked by a long line of prayer wheels, each inscribed with the sacred mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum.”

  • As pilgrims ascend, they spin each wheel clockwise, a gesture believed to release the mantra into the universe with every rotation. The rhythmic clinking of the wheels, combined with the murmured recitation of the mantra, creates a meditative cadence that transforms the physical climb into a spiritual journey.
  • For many devotees, the act of spinning the prayer wheels is more than ritual—it’s a source of strength. The mantra, which invokes the blessings of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion, is said to purify negative karma and cultivate inner peace. As the path steepens, the repetition of “Mani” becomes a kind of spiritual fuel, helping pilgrims overcome fatigue and focus their minds. The wheels offer a tactile connection to the divine, grounding the climber in devotion even as their body strains against gravity.
  • This physical ascent mirrors the metaphorical path of spiritual elevation. Just as the climb demands perseverance, breath control, and intention, so too does the inner journey toward enlightenment. Each prayer wheel becomes a checkpoint—not just of altitude, but of awareness. The effort to reach the monastery’s summit reflects the effort required to rise above worldly distractions and ego. In this way, the path to Tashiding becomes a living metaphor for the Buddhist path itself: gradual, demanding, but deeply transformative.
  • By the time pilgrims reach the monastery gates, they’ve not only scaled a hill but also engaged in a ritual of purification and mindfulness. The prayer wheels, humble in appearance, serve as silent companions on this journey—each spin a whisper of hope, each step a movement toward clarity. It’s a pilgrimage that leaves its mark not just on the soles of the feet, but on the soul.

Large boulder inscribed with the mantra in five colors
As pilgrims ascend the winding path to Tashiding Monastery, they encounter a striking boulder inscribed with the sacred mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum”—each syllable painted in a different color: white, green, yellow, blue, and red.

  • This boulder stands not only as a visual landmark but as a spiritual beacon, radiating the essence of Tibetan Buddhist devotion. The colors are not arbitrary; they correspond to the five Buddha families and the five elements, each representing a facet of enlightened consciousness.
  • The mantra itself is deeply significant in Mahayana Buddhism, especially within the Nyingma tradition practiced at Tashiding. “Om Mani Padme Hum” is a prayer to Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. Each syllable carries a transformative power:
    • Om (white) purifies pride and ego, linked to the element of space.
    • Ma (green) purifies jealousy and envy, associated with air.
    • Ni (yellow) purifies passion and desire, tied to earth.
    • Pad (blue) purifies ignorance and prejudice, connected to water.
    • Me (red) purifies greed and possessiveness, linked to fire.
    • Hum (often depicted in deep indigo or black) seals the prayer and represents unity and wisdom.
  • The boulder’s placement along the path is intentional—it invites pilgrims to pause, reflect, and recite the mantra as they climb. The act of chanting while gazing upon the colored inscription is believed to harmonize the body’s energies and align the mind with compassion. It’s a moment of spiritual calibration before reaching the monastery’s sacred precincts.
  • In many ways, this boulder serves as a threshold between the mundane and the divine. Its vivid colors and ancient script echo the timeless teachings of the Dharma, reminding travelers that enlightenment is not a distant goal but a path walked step by step, mantra by mantra. The climb may be steep, but each syllable offers a foothold in the ascent toward clarity and compassion.

Continuing up towards the main gate


Wind-powered prayer wheels
As pilgrims make their way up the winding path to Tashiding Monastery, they encounter a unique and quietly mesmerizing feature: wind-powered prayer wheels.

  • These wheels, unlike the traditional hand-spun ones, are set into motion by the mountain breeze that sweeps through the valley. Suspended on metal or wooden frames, they catch the wind with small vanes or flags, turning gently and continuously. Each rotation is believed to release the sacred mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum” into the universe, offering blessings to all sentient beings.
  • The presence of these wind-powered wheels adds a layer of serenity to the pilgrimage. Their constant motion, driven by nature itself, symbolizes the effortless flow of compassion and wisdom. For pilgrims, this means that even the elements are participating in prayer—wind becomes a silent devotee, spinning mantras day and night. It’s a reminder that spiritual practice isn’t confined to human effort alone; the natural world, too, plays a role in sustaining sacred energy.
  • These wheels also serve as a metaphor for the Buddhist path. Just as the wind turns the wheels without force or struggle, the path to enlightenment is ideally one of surrender and harmony. The wheels spin without ego, without grasping—just as practitioners are encouraged to let go of attachments and allow the Dharma to guide them. Their quiet presence along the trail offers a moment of reflection: can one move forward in life with the same grace and rhythm?
  • By the time pilgrims reach the monastery, they’ve walked alongside these silent companions, absorbing their message of effortless devotion. The wind-powered prayer wheels don’t demand attention—they simply exist, turning prayers into motion, motion into meaning. In a world often driven by noise and urgency, their gentle spinning is a call to stillness, reminding all who pass that even the wind knows how to pray.

Entrance gate to the monastery
The entrance gate to Tashiding Monastery is more than a threshold—it’s a symbolic passage into sacred space.

  • As pilgrims approach the monastery, the gate stands as a sentinel of spiritual transition, marking the shift from the worldly to the divine. Its structure is typically adorned with vibrant prayer flags and intricate woodwork, but what captures the eye most are the two dragons carved at either end of the lintel beam, facing outward with fierce grace. These dragons are not merely decorative; they embody deep layers of Tibetan Buddhist symbolism.
  • In Buddhist iconography, dragons represent power, protection, and enlightenment. Positioned at the gate’s upper beam, they serve as guardians of the Dharma, warding off negative energies and ensuring that only those with pure intentions enter the monastery grounds. Their placement also evokes the mythical role of dragons as carriers of rain and thunder—forces of nature that cleanse and renew. In this context, the dragons are seen as protectors of spiritual purity, echoing the monastery’s role as a place of inner transformation.
  • Passing beneath these dragons is a ritual in itself. Pilgrims often pause at the gate, bowing slightly or offering a silent prayer before stepping through. The act of crossing under the dragons is symbolic of leaving behind ego and distraction, and entering a space of mindfulness and devotion. The gate thus becomes a liminal zone—a moment of spiritual recalibration before engaging with the sacred architecture and rituals within.
  • The dragons also reflect the monastery’s connection to Guru Padmasambhava, the tantric master who is said to have subdued demonic forces and established Buddhism in the Himalayas. Their fierce expressions and poised stance echo his teachings: that enlightenment requires courage, discipline, and the ability to confront inner demons. In this way, the entrance gate is not just a physical structure—it’s a spiritual statement, inviting all who enter to walk the path with reverence and resolve.

Mani Lhakhang
Just beyond the entrance gate to Tashiding Monastery stands a distinctive and spiritually charged structure: the Mani Lhakhang, a small temple completely encircled by prayer wheels on all four sides.

  • This building is the first architectural feature that greets pilgrims and visitors, and it serves as a kind of spiritual vestibule—a place to pause, reflect, and begin the journey inward. The prayer wheels, inscribed with the mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum,” form a continuous ring around the building, inviting devotees to walk clockwise and spin each wheel as they chant the sacred syllables.
  • The Mani Lhakhang is modest in size but rich in symbolism. Its central location at the entrance underscores its role as a purifier—before one steps into the deeper sanctums of the monastery, one is encouraged to engage in this tactile form of devotion. The act of spinning the wheels is believed to release the mantra into the universe, generating merit and cleansing negative karma. The building’s design, with its open access on all sides, allows pilgrims to circle it multiple times, creating a rhythm of movement and prayer that sets the tone for the rest of the visit.
  • Architecturally, the Mani Lhakhang reflects traditional Tibetan Buddhist aesthetics. Its sloping roof is adorned with colorful woodwork and auspicious symbols, while the interior often houses a small altar with butter lamps and thangkas. The surrounding prayer wheels are mounted on wooden frames, each one carefully maintained by the monastery’s resident monks. The constant motion of these wheels—whether turned by hand or by the breeze—imbues the space with a sense of living prayer, as if the building itself is breathing devotion.
  • In essence, this building is more than a structure—it’s a spiritual engine. It transforms the simple act of arrival into a ritual of mindfulness and intention. For many pilgrims, the Mani Lhakhang is not just the beginning of a physical journey up the hill—it’s the first step on a path toward inner clarity and compassion.

Panorama with the main building (left), a new large building (center) and Mani Lhakhang (right)
A large building is under construction against the south side of Mani Lhakhang.


Details of the large building under construction


House of the great prayer wheel (left) and the large building under construction (right)


Great prayer wheel
The large prayer wheel stands as a vibrant axis of devotion and spiritual motion. Housed in a modest structure near the main hall, this ornate wheel is wrapped in mantra-inscribed panels, most prominently the sacred syllables of Om Mani Padme Hum.

  • Its cylindrical body is painted in rich reds and golds, often adorned with lotus motifs and protective deities, reflecting the monastery’s deep roots in the Nyingma tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. The wheel is mounted on a central spindle, allowing it to spin with a gentle push—each rotation believed to release thousands of prayers into the universe.
  • Locals and pilgrims alike engage with the wheel in a ritual known as kora, walking clockwise around it while spinning it with reverence. This act is not merely symbolic—it’s a meditative practice that aligns body, speech, and mind with the dharma. The wheel contains scrolls of printed mantras inside, amplifying its spiritual potency. As it turns, it’s said to generate merit, purify karma, and invoke the blessings of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. The rhythmic creak of its rotation becomes part of the monastery’s soundscape, mingling with chants, bells, and the rustle of prayer flags.
  • Architecturally, the prayer wheel is sheltered beneath a wooden canopy, often supported by carved pillars and surrounded by smaller wheels or offering tables. Its placement near the main hall ensures that it’s part of the daily devotional flow, accessible to monks and visitors alike. During festivals like Bumchu, the wheel becomes a focal point of communal prayer, its motion echoing the cyclical nature of existence and the turning of the dharma.
  • In the broader spiritual landscape of Tashiding—revered as the “Heart of Sikkim”—this prayer wheel serves as a living mandala, a tactile gateway to awakening. It invites not only physical interaction but inner reflection, reminding all who pass that even the simplest gesture—a turn of the wheel—can ripple outward with profound spiritual consequence.

Panorama of the facade of the main building
The facade of the main building at Tashiding Monastery, known as the Chogyal Lhakhang, is a vivid expression of Tibetan Buddhist architecture and spiritual symbolism.

  • Facing east to greet the rising sun, the structure is adorned with intricately carved wooden beams painted in auspicious colors—deep reds, golds, and blues. The entrance is framed by a series of prayer flags fluttering in the wind, each carrying mantras and blessings across the valley. Above the doorway, protective deities and auspicious symbols are painted or carved into the lintel, offering spiritual protection to all who enter.
  • Flanking the entrance are two guardian murals, often depicting wrathful deities like Mahakala or Vajrapani, whose fierce expressions are meant to ward off negative energies. These figures are balanced by more serene depictions of bodhisattvas and lineage masters, creating a visual dialogue between compassion and protection. The walls of the façade are typically whitewashed, symbolizing purity, and punctuated by small windows with brightly colored wooden frames—each one carved with floral or geometric motifs.
  • The roofline of the main building is equally striking, with its tiered structure and upturned eaves echoing the style of traditional Himalayan temples. Golden finials and dharma wheels crown the roof, representing the turning of the wheel of Dharma and the spread of Buddhist teachings. Small bells hang from the corners, chiming softly in the breeze and adding a layer of auditory serenity to the visual splendor.
  • Together, these elements make the façade of the Chogyal Lhakhang not just an architectural feature, but a spiritual threshold. It invites pilgrims to leave behind worldly distractions and step into a realm of devotion, reflection, and sacred ritual. Every detail—from the colors to the carvings—serves as a visual mantra, guiding the eye and the heart toward the teachings housed within.

Two ritual ovens in front of the monastery
In front of the main building of Tashiding Monastery—the Chogyal Lhakhang—stand two ritual ovens that play a vital role in the monastery’s ceremonial life.

  • These ovens, often simple in construction but rich in symbolism, are used for fire offerings known as sang or jinsek. Monks and pilgrims gather around them during important rituals to burn juniper, herbs, grains, and butter, creating fragrant smoke that is believed to purify the environment and invoke blessings from protective deities. The rising smoke is seen as a bridge between the earthly and the divine, carrying prayers upward into the sacred Himalayan sky.
  • These fire offerings are deeply connected to mountain worship, a tradition rooted in the belief that mountains are the abodes of powerful spirits and guardian deities. In Sikkimese Buddhism, Mount Kanchenjunga is revered as a living deity, and rituals performed at Tashiding often include invocations to this mountain and others in the region. The ovens serve as focal points for these invocations, with the fire symbolizing transformation and the smoke acting as a messenger to the mountain gods. By making offerings here, practitioners seek harmony with the natural world and protection from unseen forces.
  • The placement of the ovens directly in front of the main temple is no accident—it reflects their role as gateways to sacred space. Before entering the temple for deeper rituals, devotees often participate in or witness these fire offerings, allowing the smoke to cleanse their minds and bodies. The act of burning offerings is both a gesture of devotion and a spiritual preparation, aligning the practitioner with the energies of the land and the teachings of the Buddha. It’s a moment of grounding, where the elemental power of fire meets the lofty aspirations of prayer.
  • In essence, these ritual ovens are more than ceremonial tools—they are living altars that connect the monastery to the mountains, the monks to the spirits, and the pilgrims to their own inner clarity. Their flames flicker with centuries of tradition, and their smoke carries the timeless message of reverence, purification, and unity with the sacred landscape of Sikkim.

Geruda above the portico entrance
Above the entrance door to the main building of Tashiding Monastery, the depiction of Garuda grasping a serpent with both hands and its beak carries profound symbolic and spiritual significance.

  • In Tibetan Buddhist iconography, Garuda is a mythical bird-like creature known for its immense power, speed, and ability to soar above worldly illusions. By placing Garuda above the temple’s threshold, the monastery invokes his protective energy, ensuring that all who enter are shielded from spiritual harm and negative influences.
  • The serpent in Garuda’s grasp represents ignorance, delusion, and harmful forces—elements that obstruct the path to enlightenment. Garuda’s act of subduing the serpent is not merely a mythological battle; it’s a metaphor for the triumph of wisdom over ignorance. His fierce expression and dynamic posture remind pilgrims that entering the temple is an act of spiritual courage, a commitment to confront and transcend inner demons. The placement above the door suggests that one must symbolically pass beneath this act of purification to access the sacred teachings within.
  • This motif also reflects the tantric traditions practiced at Tashiding, where transformation and protection are central themes. Garuda is often associated with Guru Padmasambhava, the tantric master who subdued malevolent spirits and established Buddhism in the Himalayas. In this context, Garuda becomes a guardian of the Dharma, ensuring that the monastery remains a sanctuary of clarity and compassion. His presence above the entrance is a visual mantra—a reminder that the path to awakening requires vigilance and inner strength.
  • For pilgrims, the image of Garuda is both awe-inspiring and reassuring. It signals that the monastery is not just a place of worship, but a fortress of spiritual integrity. As they step through the doorway, they do so under the watchful gaze of a being who embodies the fearless pursuit of truth. In this way, Garuda’s appearance is not just decorative—it’s a declaration of the monastery’s sacred purpose.

Wheel of Life
On the porch, the representation of the Wheel of Life—also known as the Bhavachakra—serves as a vivid and profound teaching tool. This intricate mural or relief painting typically appears near the entrance, greeting pilgrims with a visual summary of Buddhist cosmology and the cycle of samsara, or rebirth.

  • At its center are the three poisons—a pig (ignorance), a snake (hatred), and a rooster (desire)—which drive the wheel’s rotation and symbolize the root causes of suffering.
  • Surrounding the center are the six realms of existence: gods, demi-gods, humans, animals, hungry ghosts, and hell beings. Each realm is depicted with its own unique imagery, showing the joys and torments experienced by beings trapped in the cycle of rebirth. The human realm, often shown with a figure meditating, is considered the most favorable for attaining enlightenment. The outer ring illustrates the twelve links of dependent origination, a sequence that explains how ignorance leads to suffering and rebirth, reinforcing the interconnectedness of all phenomena.
  • Encircling the entire wheel is the fearsome figure of Yama, the Lord of Death, who holds the wheel in his grasp. His presence reminds viewers that all conditioned existence is impermanent and subject to decay. Yet, in the upper corner of the painting, one often finds a depiction of the moon or Buddha pointing toward liberation, symbolizing the possibility of breaking free from the cycle through wisdom and compassion.
  • At Tashiding, this representation is not just a doctrinal diagram—it’s a spiritual mirror. Pilgrims pause before it to reflect on their own lives, choices, and karmic patterns. The Wheel of Life invites contemplation and humility, urging visitors to enter the monastery not just with reverence, but with a renewed commitment to awakening. Its placement on the porch ensures that every step into the sacred space is preceded by a moment of deep introspection.

Dhrtarastra, the Heavenly King of the East
On the portico, the figure of Dhrtarastra, the King of the East, appears in a striking and contemplative pose, playing a pipa, a traditional stringed instrument.

  • As one of the Four Heavenly Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Dhrtarastra is the guardian of the eastern direction and the patron of celestial musicians known as Gandharvas. His depiction with the pipa emphasizes his role as a protector through harmony and sound, suggesting that music itself can be a vehicle for spiritual protection and awakening.
  • Beside Dhrtarastra stands a small dakini, gracefully playing a transverse flute. Dakinis are embodiments of wisdom and enlightened energy in Vajrayana Buddhism, often portrayed as playful, fierce, or ecstatic. Her presence adds a lyrical counterpoint to Dhrtarastra’s solemn music, creating a visual duet that evokes both discipline and spontaneity. The flute’s melody is believed to stir the heart and dissolve mental obscurations, while the pipa’s deeper tones anchor the mind in clarity and resolve.
  • Together, these figures form a symbolic gateway to the monastery’s inner sanctum. Positioned on the portico, they invite pilgrims to enter not just physically but spiritually—prepared to harmonize their inner energies and attune themselves to the teachings within. The pairing of Dhrtarastra and the dakini reflects the tantric principle of balancing masculine and feminine forces, protection and inspiration, structure and flow.
  • This tableau is more than ornamental—it’s a living teaching rendered in form and gesture. As pilgrims pass beneath their gaze, they are reminded that the path to enlightenment is not only guarded by strength but also guided by beauty, rhythm, and the transformative power of sound.

Vaisravana, the Heavenly King of the North
On the porch, the representation of Vaisravana, the Heavenly King of the North, stands as a commanding figure of protection and prosperity.

  • As one of the Four Heavenly Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Vaisravana is traditionally depicted wearing ornate armor and a regal crown, symbolizing his status as a celestial guardian. At Tashiding, he is shown holding a banner or parasol, signifying his sovereignty and his role as a protector of the Dharma. His posture is upright and vigilant, facing outward as if surveying the northern horizon, ready to defend the monastery from spiritual threats.
  • Vaisravana is also revered as the god of wealth and the leader of the yaksha spirits, beings associated with abundance and natural forces. His presence on the porch is not merely decorative—it’s a spiritual statement. Positioned at the northern edge of the temple’s threshold, he anchors the monastery’s protective energy, ensuring that the sacred space remains undisturbed by negative influences. His image often includes a mongoose spitting jewels, a symbol of generosity and the defeat of greed, reinforcing his dual role as both guardian and benefactor.
  • The placement of Vaisravana at Tashiding reflects the monastery’s deep connection to tantric traditions, where deities embody both worldly and spiritual powers. His fierce yet benevolent expression reminds pilgrims that the path to enlightenment requires both vigilance and compassion. As devotees pass beneath his gaze, they are symbolically entering a space where spiritual wealth is safeguarded and inner clarity is cultivated.
  • In this way, Vaisravana’s representation is more than iconography—it’s a living embodiment of the monastery’s mission. He stands as a sentinel of the sacred, a reminder that true prosperity lies not in material gain, but in the protection and practice of the Dharma. His silent watch over the porch is a call to enter with reverence, courage, and an open heart.

Virupaksa, the Heavenly King of the West
On the portico, the representation of Virupaksa, the Heavenly King of the West, stands as a vigilant guardian of spiritual truth.

  • As one of the Four Heavenly Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Virupaksa is traditionally associated with clear vision and insight, his name meaning “wide-eyed” or “far-seeing.” At Tashiding, he is depicted in a commanding stance, often holding a serpent or lasso, symbolizing his power to bind and subdue ignorance and harmful forces. His gaze is intense, scanning the western horizon as if to shield the monastery from unseen threats.
  • Virupaksa’s presence on the portico is not merely ornamental—it’s deeply symbolic. Positioned to guard the western direction, he embodies the principle of watchfulness and discernment, qualities essential to the Buddhist path. His image serves as a reminder that spiritual progress requires clarity of mind and the courage to confront delusion. The serpent he holds is not just a symbol of danger but also of transformation, suggesting that what binds us can also be transmuted through wisdom.
  • The artistic rendering of Virupaksa at Tashiding often includes elaborate armor and a crown, signifying his celestial status and protective role. His posture is dynamic, suggesting readiness and resolve, while his expression balances fierceness with compassion. This duality reflects the tantric ethos of the monastery, where wrathful deities are seen not as malevolent but as fierce protectors of the Dharma. His placement on the portico—alongside other guardian kings—creates a spiritual perimeter, ensuring that the sacred space within remains undisturbed.
  • For pilgrims, passing beneath Virupaksa’s gaze is a moment of reflection. It’s a symbolic crossing from the distractions of the outer world into the clarity of the inner path. His image invites visitors to cultivate insight, to see beyond appearances, and to walk the monastery grounds with awakened awareness. In this way, Virupaksa is not just a guardian of the west—he is a guardian of the mind.

Virudhaka, the Heavenly King of the South
On the porch, the representation of Virudhaka, the Heavenly King of the South, stands as a formidable guardian of spiritual growth and discipline.

  • As one of the Four Heavenly Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Virudhaka is traditionally associated with the southern direction and is revered as the leader of the kumbhandas—fierce, otherworldly beings who dwell in the desire realms. At Tashiding, he is typically depicted in full armor, his posture upright and commanding, with a stern gaze that seems to pierce through illusion and distraction.
  • Virudhaka is often shown wielding a sword, the symbolic weapon of wisdom and purification. This sword is not meant for violence but for cutting through ignorance and ego—qualities that obstruct the path to enlightenment. His presence on the monastery’s porch serves as a spiritual checkpoint, reminding pilgrims that the journey ahead requires clarity, courage, and the willingness to confront inner demons. The sword also reflects his role as a protector of the Dharma, ensuring that the teachings within the monastery remain undisturbed by negative forces.
  • The artistic rendering of Virudhaka may include vivid colors—often green or blue—and elaborate details such as a crown, flowing robes, and wrathful facial features. These elements are not meant to intimidate but to convey his fierce compassion and unwavering commitment to safeguarding sacred space. His image is often balanced by more serene figures nearby, creating a visual harmony between wrathful protection and peaceful devotion.
  • For those entering Tashiding Monastery, passing beneath Virudhaka’s watchful gaze is a symbolic act of purification. It marks the transition from the outer world into a realm of spiritual practice, where growth is not just encouraged but fiercely protected. His silent presence on the porch is a call to awaken, to shed distractions, and to walk the path with integrity and resolve.

Shakyamuni Buddha at the entrance to the main hall of the monastery
At the entrance to the main hall stands a serene and radiant golden statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, a figure that immediately commands reverence and reflection.

  • Seated upright in a meditative posture, the Buddha is depicted wearing a long, ankle-length robe that drapes gracefully over his body, symbolizing simplicity and detachment from worldly desires. His bare feet rest gently on the pedestal, grounding the image in humility and openness. The statue’s golden hue reflects not only artistic craftsmanship but also the spiritual luminosity associated with enlightenment.
  • The Buddha’s right hand is raised, palm facing outward, in the Abhaya Mudra—a gesture of fearlessness and protection. Engraved on the palm is the wheel of Dharma, a powerful emblem representing the Buddha’s first teaching at Sarnath and the continuous turning of the Dharma in the world. This detail reinforces the statue’s role as a guardian of wisdom and a beacon of spiritual guidance for all who enter the monastery. The left hand, bent downward and gently holding a corner of the robe, adds a touch of grace and balance, suggesting both humility and the readiness to engage with the suffering of sentient beings.
  • This particular representation of Shakyamuni Buddha is not merely decorative—it serves as a threshold figure, marking the transition from the outer world into the sacred interior of the Chogyal Lhakhang. Pilgrims often pause before it, offering prayers or simply absorbing its quiet majesty. The statue’s posture and gestures invite visitors to shed fear, embrace clarity, and enter the temple with a heart open to transformation.
  • In the context of Tashiding’s rich spiritual landscape, this golden Buddha becomes a living symbol of the monastery’s mission: to cultivate compassion, wisdom, and inner peace. Its presence at the entrance is a silent sermon, reminding all who pass that the journey inward begins with courage, mindfulness, and the turning of the Dharma wheel within.
  • Photographs by Anjan Kumar Kundu and Amitabha Gupta, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Mail hall
The main hall of Tashiding Monastery, known as the Chogyal Lhakhang, is the spiritual heart of the complex—a place where ritual, meditation, and community converge.

  • Stepping inside, one is immediately enveloped by the scent of juniper incense and the soft glow of butter lamps. The walls are adorned with vibrant thangkas and murals depicting deities, lineage masters, and scenes from the life of Guru Padmasambhava, whose altar stands at the far end of the hall. This altar is richly decorated with offerings, ritual implements, and statues, serving as the focal point for ceremonies and daily prayers.
  • Arranged in neat rows perpendicular to the Padmasambhava altar are the benches for the monks, simple wooden platforms that stretch across the hall. These benches are not merely seats—they are stations of devotion, where monks sit cross-legged during pujas, chanting mantras and playing ritual instruments like cymbals and long horns. The perpendicular layout ensures that every monk faces the altar, reinforcing the collective orientation toward the sacred. The symmetry of the benches also reflects the disciplined rhythm of monastic life, where each gesture and chant is part of a larger spiritual choreography.
  • Flanking the altar are two elevated thrones, one on each side, reserved for senior teachers or visiting lamas. These thrones are ornately carved and draped with ceremonial silk scarves (khatas), signifying respect and lineage. Their placement closest to the altar underscores the teachers’ role as conduits of wisdom and ritual authority. During important ceremonies, these thrones are occupied by figures who lead the chants, deliver teachings, or perform initiations, anchoring the spiritual energy of the gathering.
  • The overall atmosphere of the assembly hall is one of reverence and quiet intensity. Every element—from the benches to the thrones, from the flickering lamps to the painted deities—works in harmony to create a space where the mundane dissolves and the sacred becomes palpable. It’s a hall not just of assembly, but of transformation, where the teachings of Padmasambhava continue to echo through the chants of devoted practitioners.
  • Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Padmasambhava altar
At the heart of the main hall of Tashiding Monastery, the altar stands as a radiant focal point of devotion and ritual.

  • Richly adorned with butter lamps, offering bowls, and ceremonial scarves, it is framed by thangkas and murals that depict scenes from the life of Guru Padmasambhava, the tantric master who is revered as the second Buddha in Himalayan Buddhism. The air around the altar is thick with incense and the low hum of mantras, creating a space where the sacred feels tangible and immediate.
  • Dominating the altar is a golden statue of Padmasambhava, seated in regal stillness. In his right hand, he holds a vajra, the thunderbolt scepter that symbolizes indestructible wisdom and spiritual power. His left hand, bent downward, gently cradles a jeweled cap, a symbol of his mastery over the esoteric teachings and his role as a transmitter of hidden knowledge. His gaze is calm yet penetrating, inviting both reverence and introspection. The statue is often surrounded by smaller images of his eight manifestations, each representing a different aspect of his enlightened activity.
  • For the monks and pilgrims of Tashiding, Padmasambhava is not just a historical figure—he is the living soul of the monastery. It is believed that he consecrated the land of Sikkim and concealed spiritual treasures (terma) in its mountains and rivers. His teachings form the backbone of the Nyingma tradition practiced here, and his image on the altar serves as a daily reminder of the transformative power of devotion, discipline, and compassion. During major festivals like Bhumchu, his presence is invoked through elaborate rituals and chants that echo through the hall.
  • The altar, with Padmasambhava at its center, is more than a place of worship—it is a spiritual engine that powers the monastery’s rhythm of prayer and practice. It anchors the monks in their lineage and offers pilgrims a moment of communion with the sacred. Every gesture made before it—whether lighting a lamp, offering a flower, or whispering a mantra—is a step closer to the clarity and fearlessness that Padmasambhava embodies.
  • Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Padmasambhava is flanked by his two spiritual consorts
Flanking the central figure of Padmasambhava at the altar in the main assembly hall of Tashiding Monastery are two female attendants, traditionally understood to be his spiritual consorts—each embodying distinct aspects of tantric wisdom.

  • These figures are not merely decorative; they represent the union of method and insight, devotion and realization, which are central to Vajrayana Buddhism. Their symmetrical placement beside Padmasambhava reinforces his role as the tantric master who harmonizes opposites and transforms duality into awakening.
  • The consort on Padmasambhava’s left is more richly adorned, dressed in elaborate robes with intricate patterns and jewelry that reflect her elevated status and esoteric power. She is often identified with Yeshe Tsogyal, the enlightened yogini and principal disciple of Padmasambhava. Her regal bearing and ornate attire symbolize the depth of spiritual realization and the richness of inner wisdom. In her hands, she offers a small cup, a gesture of devotion and transmission, while performing the Surya mudra, a hand gesture associated with vitality, clarity, and the dispelling of darkness.
  • On Padmasambhava’s right side, the second consort is more lightly dressed, her garments simpler and her demeanor more subdued. This contrast suggests a complementary energy—perhaps representing the earthly, accessible aspect of feminine wisdom. She too offers a small cup and performs the Surya mudra, mirroring the gesture of her counterpart. The repetition of this mudra by both figures creates a visual rhythm of offering and illumination, reinforcing Padmasambhava’s role as the receiver and transmitter of transformative energy.
  • Together, these two consorts form a triadic composition with Padmasambhava at the center, embodying the tantric principle of union between wisdom and method. Their presence at the altar is not just symbolic—it’s a living teaching rendered in form and gesture. For monks and pilgrims alike, this tableau serves as a reminder that enlightenment is not a solitary pursuit but a dynamic interplay of forces, devotion, and insight.
  • Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Lhatsun Namkha Jigme
On the left side of the Padmasambhava altar, the figure of Lhatsun Namkha Jigme commands attention with a presence that is both fierce and deeply symbolic.

  • His blue body radiates the wrathful compassion often associated with tantric deities—an embodiment of enlightened energy that subdues ignorance and obstacles. This color, in Vajrayana iconography, is not merely aesthetic; it represents the vastness of space and the transformative power of the dharma.
  • Adorning his head is a crown of skulls, a potent symbol of impermanence and the transcendence of ego. Each skull signifies a conquered delusion, and together they form a regal diadem of spiritual mastery. His trident, gripped firmly, bears three heads—a triadic motif that may represent the purification of body, speech, and mind, or the overcoming of the three poisons: ignorance, attachment, and aversion. The trident itself is a weapon of spiritual power, piercing through illusion and duality.
  • In his right hand, Lhatsun holds a human tibia bone, fashioned into a ritual trumpet known as a kangling. This instrument, traditionally used in Chod practice, evokes the call to cut through attachment to the self. It’s a chilling yet sacred reminder of mortality and the urgency of spiritual practice. His left hand cradles a skullcap, or kapala, often filled with offerings in tantric rituals. This vessel, made from the top of a human skull, symbolizes the transformation of base desires into enlightened wisdom.
  • Together, these elements form a tableau of tantric symbolism that is both esoteric and evocative. Lhatsun Namkha Jigme’s depiction at Tashiding is not merely decorative—it’s a visual sermon in wrathful compassion, urging practitioners to confront the raw truths of existence and embrace the path of liberation. His placement on the altar, flanking Padmasambhava, reinforces his role as a guardian of the teachings and a revealer of hidden treasures (terma) in the sacred landscape of Sikkim.

Amitayus Buddha
On the right side of the Padmasambhava altar, the serene figure of Amitayus Buddha offers a striking contrast to the wrathful deities often found in tantric iconography.

  • Amitayus, the Buddha of Infinite Life, is depicted in a tranquil meditative posture, his presence radiating boundless compassion and longevity. His calm demeanor and gentle gaze evoke a sense of spiritual refuge, inviting practitioners to contemplate the nature of life and the aspiration for enlightenment.
  • Cradled in both hands at the level of his abdomen is a vase, known as the kalasha, which is filled with the nectar of immortality. This sacred vessel is not merely symbolic—it represents the essence of Amitayus’s blessings: long life, merit, and wisdom. The vase’s placement at the abdomen, near the center of the body, aligns with the energetic hub of vitality in tantric physiology, reinforcing the deity’s role as a guardian of life force and spiritual continuity.
  • Amitayus is often portrayed wearing ornate robes and a jeweled crown, signifying his status as a celestial Buddha within the Mahayana and Vajrayana traditions. His adornments are not worldly but symbolic of enlightened qualities—each jewel representing a perfected virtue. The backdrop of the altar, with its intricate carvings and offerings, frames Amitayus in a sacred narrative that complements Padmasambhava’s transformative power with the promise of enduring spiritual life.
  • In the context of Tashiding Monastery, Amitayus’s presence is deeply resonant. This site, revered as the “Heart of Sikkim,” is a place of pilgrimage and renewal. The inclusion of Amitayus on the altar underscores the monastery’s role in fostering not only liberation from suffering but also the cultivation of longevity and spiritual vitality. His image serves as a gentle reminder that enlightenment is not only a destination but a sustained journey nourished by compassion and wisdom.
  • Photographs by Anjan Kumar Kundu and Amitabha Gupta, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Wall painting of Padmasambhava with vajra and jewel-topped skullcap
Padmasambhava, revered as the Lotus-Born Guru, is often depicted holding a vajra in his right hand and a jeweled skullcap in his left, a pairing that encapsulates the dynamic balance of enlightened activity and profound wisdom.

  • The vajra, or dorje, is a ritual scepter symbolizing indestructibility and the thunderbolt of awakening. In his right hand—traditionally associated with action—it represents Padmasambhava’s power to cut through delusion and protect the dharma. It’s not merely a weapon but a spiritual tool that channels the clarity and force of awakened mind.
  • The jeweled skullcap, or kapala, held in his left hand, is a vessel of transformation. Crafted from a human cranium and adorned with precious stones, it symbolizes the transmutation of base desires into enlightened offerings. In tantric rituals, the kapala is often filled with nectar or sacred substances, representing the essence of wisdom and the blissful realization of emptiness. Its placement in the left hand—linked to receptivity and inner realization—underscores Padmasambhava’s mastery of the inner yogic path and his role as a transmitter of esoteric teachings.
  • Together, these two objects form a visual dialogue between method and wisdom, the twin pillars of Vajrayana practice. The vajra is the method: fierce compassion, skillful means, and the active engagement with samsara to liberate beings. The skullcap is the wisdom: the deep understanding of emptiness, impermanence, and the nature of mind. Padmasambhava’s posture, often seated in royal ease atop a lotus and moon disc, reinforces this union—he is both the conqueror of obstacles and the embodiment of transcendent insight.
  • In the sacred setting of Tashiding Monastery, this iconography takes on added resonance. Padmasambhava is not just a historical figure but a living presence in the spiritual landscape of Sikkim. His symbolic attributes invite practitioners to reflect on their own path: to wield the vajra of fearless compassion and to drink from the skullcap of transformative wisdom. It’s a call to integrate outer action with inner realization—a dance of thunder and silence on the lotus of awakening.
  • Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Wall painting of Padmasambhava in "father-mother" (yab-yum) posture
In the yab-yum posture, Padmasambhava is depicted in intimate union with his consort—often Yeshe Tsogyal—symbolizing the profound integration of method and wisdom, the two essential aspects of enlightenment in Vajrayana Buddhism.

  • “Yab” means father and “yum” means mother, and their embrace is not merely erotic or romantic; it is a visual metaphor for the non-dual nature of reality. Padmasambhava, representing skillful means and compassionate action, merges with the feminine principle of insight and transcendent wisdom. Their union dissolves the illusion of separation, pointing to the ultimate truth beyond conceptual thought.
  • This posture is deeply rooted in Anuttarayoga Tantra, the highest class of tantric practice, where the practitioner visualizes the deity in union to cultivate blissful awareness and penetrate the nature of emptiness. The male figure’s active stance and the female’s receptive posture reflect the dynamic interplay of energies within the practitioner’s own body and mind. Far from being literal, the imagery serves as a meditative aid, guiding the practitioner toward the realization that enlightenment arises from the harmony of opposites—compassion and wisdom, form and emptiness, movement and stillness.
  • Padmasambhava in yab-yum also embodies the transmission of esoteric teachings, especially those revealed through terma (hidden treasures). The consort is not a passive figure but a co-equal partner in the dance of realization, often portrayed as a dakini or wisdom goddess who activates the latent potential of the practitioner. Their union is a sacred ritual space where the boundaries of ego dissolve, and the practitioner is invited to experience the blissful clarity of awakened mind.
  • In sacred sites like Tashiding Monastery, such iconography carries added resonance. It’s not just a depiction—it’s a living symbol of transformation, reminding devotees that enlightenment is not achieved through denial or suppression, but through the full embrace of life’s energies, refined and directed toward liberation. Padmasambhava in yab-yum is a mirror of the practitioner’s own journey: fierce, tender, and ultimately transcendent.
  • Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Wall painting of Jatson Nyingpo (left)
The radiant depiction of Jatson Nyingpo is a vivid embodiment of tantric mastery and spiritual transcendence.

  • His right arm raised, clutching a vajra, signifies the indestructible clarity of awakened mind and the fierce compassion that cuts through ignorance. The vajra, a thunderbolt of spiritual resolve, is not merely symbolic—it’s a declaration of his role as a terton, a revealer of hidden teachings (terma) meant to awaken practitioners in times of spiritual decline.
  • In contrast, his left arm lowered, holding a phurba—a ritual dagger—anchors his presence in the realm of wrathful protection and transformation. The phurba is traditionally used to subdue negative forces and obstacles on the path, and in Jatson Nyingpo’s hand, it becomes a tool of enlightened action. This dual gesture—vajra above, phurba below—creates a vertical axis of power, linking celestial insight with grounded liberation. It’s a visual mantra of balance: the sky of wisdom meets the earth of method.
  • What truly sets this representation apart is the radiance of rainbows emanating from his body. In Vajrayana Buddhism, rainbows are not decorative—they are signs of realized beings dissolving into light, transcending the physical form. Jatson Nyingpo’s rainbow aura suggests his mastery of the rainbow body, a state achieved through profound realization where the physical body dissolves into pure light at death. The circle of rainbows enclosing the entire image reinforces this transcendence, forming a mandala of awakened presence that invites the viewer into a sacred space beyond duality.
  • Within the sacred precincts of Tashiding Monastery—often called the “Heart of Sikkim”—this image of Jatson Nyingpo is more than iconography. It’s a living transmission of his legacy as a vidyadhara, a bearer of awareness, whose teachings continue to ripple through the Himalayan spiritual landscape. His posture, attributes, and luminous aura speak directly to the heart of Vajrayana practice: fierce compassion, fearless transformation, and the ultimate dissolution into light.
  • Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Wall painting of Padma Gyalpo, the Lotus King
The manifestation of Padmasambhava known as Padma Gyalpo, or the Lotus King, radiates youthful majesty and playful wisdom.

  • This form is the first of Guru Rinpoche’s Eight Manifestations, representing his birth and early life in the kingdom of Oddiyana. At Tashiding, Padma Gyalpo is portrayed with a small double drum (damaru) in his right hand, symbolizing the rhythmic pulse of creation and dissolution. The damaru’s sound evokes the dance of emptiness and form, calling forth dakinis and awakening subtle energies within the practitioner.
  • In his left hand, Padma Gyalpo holds a mirror, a deceptively simple object that reflects profound truths. The mirror represents the luminous clarity of mind, the innate awareness that is both empty and radiant. It invites the viewer to look beyond appearances and recognize the nature of reality as a reflection—impermanent, insubstantial, yet full of potential. This pairing of drum and mirror is a tantric teaching in itself: the dynamic beat of compassionate action balanced by the stillness of pure awareness.
  • Padma Gyalpo’s red-hued body and royal attire further emphasize his role as a sovereign of enlightened qualities. Seated in the posture of royal ease, he embodies confidence, joy, and spontaneous realization. Unlike wrathful or meditative forms, Padma Gyalpo’s expression is often serene and smiling, reminding practitioners that the path to awakening can be infused with grace and delight. His presence at Tashiding, a monastery revered as the “Heart of Sikkim,” reinforces the idea that spiritual realization is not confined to austerity—it can arise through beauty, playfulness, and devotion.
  • In the sacred geometry of the Padmasambhava altar, Padma Gyalpo’s placement offers a counterpoint to more wrathful or contemplative figures, creating a mandala of balanced energies. His drum and mirror are not just ritual implements—they are gateways to the dance of awareness, inviting pilgrims and practitioners to engage with the teachings in a way that is both joyful and transformative. At Tashiding, his image becomes a living transmission of the Lotus King’s timeless message: that enlightenment is already present, waiting to be recognized in the mirror of our own mind.
  • Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Wall painting of Vajrapani (left) and Jatson Nyingpo (right)
The side-by-side depiction of Vajrapani and Jatson Nyingpo creates a powerful tableau of tantric energy and enlightened resolve.

  • Vajrapani, the embodiment of the Buddha’s power, stands with a blue body, radiating fierce compassion and unshakable strength. His right hand raised, clutching a vajra, channels the indestructible force of awakened mind. The Rudra mudra he makes—a gesture of wrathful protection—signals his role as a guardian of the dharma, ready to subdue ignorance and negativity with thunderous clarity.
  • Beside him, Jatson Nyingpo, the great terton of the Nyingma tradition, appears in a posture equally charged with symbolic potency. His right hand holds a staff topped with three heads, representing the purification of body, speech, and mind, or the transcendence of the three poisons—attachment, aversion, and ignorance. This staff is not merely ornamental; it’s a tantric implement that marks his mastery over inner and outer obstacles. From his left hand, a rainbow emerges, a luminous arc that signifies his attainment of the rainbow body, a state in which the physical form dissolves into light at death, leaving only traces of hair and nails.
  • The juxtaposition of Vajrapani’s wrathful dynamism and Jatson Nyingpo’s radiant transcendence creates a visual mandala of power and realization. Vajrapani anchors the scene with protective force, while Jatson Nyingpo lifts it into the realm of pure awareness. Their placement together at Tashiding—a monastery revered as the “Heart of Sikkim”—is no accident. It reflects the union of guardian energy and revealed wisdom, a reminder that the path to enlightenment requires both fierce commitment and luminous insight.
  • Encircled by the sacred architecture and natural beauty of Tashiding, this depiction becomes more than iconography—it’s a living transmission. Pilgrims who gaze upon these figures are invited into a dialogue with their own potential: to wield the vajra of fearless compassion, to dissolve into the rainbow of awakened mind, and to walk the tantric path with courage and clarity.
  • Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Wall painting of Buddha Shakyamuni (left), Padma Gyalpo (center) and Padmasambhava in yab-yum
The triadic representation of Buddha Shakyamuni, Padma Gyalpo, and Padmasambhava in yab-yum forms a profound visual mandala of enlightenment.

  • Each figure embodies a distinct facet of the Buddhist path: Shakyamuni as the historical Buddha and teacher of the Four Noble Truths; Padma Gyalpo as the youthful, regal emanation of Padmasambhava; and Padmasambhava in yab-yum as the tantric master in union with wisdom. Their collective presence at Tashiding is not merely symbolic—it’s a transmission of the complete spectrum of awakening, from foundational teachings to esoteric realization.
  • Buddha Shakyamuni, seated in serene meditation, anchors the triad with his timeless presence. His image evokes the clarity of the sutra path, the discipline of ethical conduct, and the transformative power of insight. Flanked by Padma Gyalpo, who holds a damaru and mirror, the tableau shifts into the realm of spontaneous wisdom and playful compassion. Padma Gyalpo’s red-hued body and royal ease suggest that enlightenment can be joyful and immediate, not just austere or distant. His mirror reflects the luminous nature of mind, while the drum pulses with the rhythm of emptiness and form.
  • At the tantric apex of the triad stands Padmasambhava in yab-yum, depicted in intimate union with his consort—often Yeshe Tsogyal. This form represents the non-dual integration of method and wisdom, the heart of Vajrayana practice. Their embrace is a visual teaching: enlightenment arises from the union of compassionate action and penetrating insight. The yab-yum posture dissolves conceptual boundaries, inviting practitioners into a state of blissful awareness beyond duality. In the sacred geometry of the altar, this form completes the arc from historical to mystical, from outer teaching to inner realization.
  • Together, these three figures form a living mandala of awakening. At Tashiding, their presence is not just devotional—it’s initiatory. Pilgrims who encounter this triad are invited to walk the full path: to study the teachings of Shakyamuni, to embody the regal spontaneity of Padma Gyalpo, and to merge into the luminous union of Padmasambhava. It’s a visual sermon in three voices, each echoing the same truth: that enlightenment is vast, multifaceted, and already within reach.
  • Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Ceiling painting with mandala
The mandala painted on the ceiling unfolds like a celestial map of enlightenment.

  • At its heart sits a central Buddha with a blue body, radiating calm power and infinite space. This figure likely represents Akshobhya, the Buddha of the East, whose blue hue symbolizes mirror-like wisdom and the ability to transform anger into clarity. His placement at the center of the mandala reflects the still point around which all spiritual energies revolve—a visual anchor for meditation and inner balance.
  • Encircling him are four Buddhas, each identical in form but distinguished by their distinct body colors—white, yellow, red, and green. These colors correspond to the Five Dhyani Buddhas, each embodying a specific aspect of enlightened consciousness. The white Buddha may represent Vairocana, the illuminator of ignorance; the yellow, Ratnasambhava, who transforms pride into equanimity; the red, Amitabha, associated with love and compassion; and the green, Amoghasiddhi, the Buddha of action and accomplishment. Their symmetrical arrangement around the central figure creates a mandala of harmony, with each quadrant offering a path to transcendence.
  • The ceiling mandala is more than decorative—it’s a spiritual architecture designed to guide the mind toward awakening. Its circular form mirrors the cyclical nature of existence, while the vibrant colors and precise geometry evoke the balance of inner and outer worlds. Monks and pilgrims who gaze upward during prayer are reminded of the vast cosmology of Vajrayana Buddhism, where each Buddha is not just a deity but a mirror of the practitioner’s own potential.
  • In the sacred atmosphere of Tashiding—often called the “Heart of Sikkim”—this mandala becomes a living presence. It invites contemplation, not only of the Buddhas above but of the mandala within: the luminous center of awareness surrounded by the transformative energies of wisdom, compassion, and fearless action. It’s a ceiling that doesn’t just shelter—it awakens.
  • Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.

Sanctuary of the Twenty-One Taras
Nestled beside the main hall of Tashiding Monastery, the Shrine of the Twenty-One Taras offers a vibrant and deeply symbolic sanctuary dedicated to the feminine embodiment of enlightened activity.

  • Each of the Twenty-One Taras represents a unique aspect of compassion, protection, and wisdom, drawn from the Praise to the Twenty-One Taras—a revered liturgical text in Tibetan Buddhism. The shrine is arranged in a harmonious sequence, with each Tara depicted in her distinct color, posture, and gesture, reflecting her specific spiritual function, from pacifying fear to bestowing longevity and magnetizing auspicious conditions.
  • The shrine’s layout is often described as mandala-like, with the central Tara—typically Green Tara, the swift liberator—anchoring the space. Surrounding her are the twenty other manifestations, each seated on lotus thrones and adorned with ritual implements such as vases, lotuses, swords, and nooses, depending on their iconographic tradition. The Taras are rendered in vivid hues—white, red, yellow, blue, and green—corresponding to the four enlightened activities: pacifying, increasing, overpowering, and wrathful transformation. Their serene yet dynamic expressions invite practitioners into a contemplative dialogue with the divine feminine.
  • Locally, the shrine is a site of daily offerings and recitations, especially the chanting of the Praises to the Twenty-One Taras, which is believed to invoke swift blessings and protection. Butter lamps flicker in front of each statue, and the air is rich with the scent of incense and the murmur of mantras. Pilgrims often circumambulate the shrine, pausing before each Tara to make personal prayers, reflecting on the qualities they wish to cultivate or obstacles they seek to overcome.
  • In the broader spiritual landscape of Tashiding Monastery, this shrine serves as a gateway to the compassionate heart of Vajrayana Buddhism. It complements the more wrathful and regal depictions found elsewhere in the monastery, offering a gentler yet equally potent path to liberation. The presence of the Twenty-One Taras beside the main hall underscores the monastery’s commitment to a holistic spiritual vision—one that honors both the fierce and the nurturing, the thunderbolt and the lotus.

Two chortens
Just beyond the main hall of Tashiding Monastery, nestled along the sacred path that leads toward the old monastery, stand two striking chortens—silent sentinels of devotion and spiritual continuity.

  • These structures, though modest in scale compared to the grand chorten forest further afield, hold a unique place in the monastery’s architectural and symbolic landscape. Their positioning between the newer and older sanctuaries suggests a bridge between eras, a passage through which pilgrims transition from the present into the timeless sanctity of the past.
  • The first chorten, closer to the main hall, is often adorned with whitewashed stone and golden spire, its surface etched with sacred mantras and symbols. It may represent a Chorten of Enlightenment, dedicated to the realization of the Buddha’s teachings. The second chorten, slightly farther along the path, carries a more weathered appearance, its stones softened by moss and time. This one is believed to be a Chorten of Reconciliation, symbolizing purification and the resolution of karmic debts. Together, they form a contemplative corridor, inviting pilgrims to pause, reflect, and prepare for the deeper mysteries housed in the old monastery.
  • These chortens are not merely architectural features—they are living vessels of prayer and intention. Devotees often circle them clockwise, murmuring mantras and spinning prayer wheels nearby. The air around them is thick with incense and the flutter of prayer flags, creating a sensory tapestry that heightens the spiritual atmosphere. Their proximity to both the main and old monastery underscores their role as threshold guardians, marking the transition from communal worship to more esoteric contemplation.
  • In the broader context of Tashiding—revered as the “Heart of Sikkim”—these two chortens embody the monastery’s layered spiritual heritage. They stand as reminders that enlightenment is not a leap but a journey, one that passes through stages of purification, insight, and devotion. As pilgrims move from the vibrant energy of the main hall toward the quiet sanctum of the old monastery, these chortens offer a moment of stillness—a chance to align body, speech, and mind before entering the deeper silence of the sacred.

Panorama of the two chorten (left) and the main hall (right) seen fron south


Panorama of the butter lamp house seen from north
Beyond the main hall, nestled along the sacred path that winds through this revered site in Sikkim, stands the butter lamp house—a quiet sanctuary of flickering devotion.

  • This modest structure, often overlooked by casual visitors, plays a vital role in the monastery’s spiritual rhythm. Within its walls, rows of butter lamps are kept alight, their golden flames dancing in silent homage to the Buddhas and bodhisattvas. Each lamp represents a prayer, an offering of light meant to dispel ignorance and illuminate the path to awakening.
  • The butter lamp house is more than a place to light candles—it’s a ritual chamber of merit. Devotees bring offerings of clarified butter (ghee) and oil, pouring them into small metal bowls that are then lit by monks or pilgrims. The act of lighting a lamp is deeply symbolic in Vajrayana Buddhism: it signifies the dispelling of darkness, both literal and metaphorical. In the quietude of this space, the air is thick with the scent of burning wicks and the murmured recitation of mantras, creating an atmosphere of contemplative reverence.
  • Architecturally, the butter lamp house is simple yet purposeful. Its walls are often adorned with sacred inscriptions and thangka paintings, and the interior is dimly lit, allowing the lamps themselves to become the primary source of illumination. This interplay of shadow and flame evokes the tantric principle of transformation—where even the smallest light can pierce the veil of delusion. The house may also contain stone tablets engraved with mantras, linking it to the broader spiritual landscape of Tashiding, which is rich in sacred carvings and relics.
  • In the context of Tashiding—often called the “Heart of Sikkim”—the butter lamp house serves as a threshold of devotion, bridging the communal energy of the main hall with the deeper silence of the old monastery beyond. It’s a place where pilgrims pause, reflect, and offer light—not just to the deities, but to their own inner journey. In the flicker of each flame, one glimpses the timeless dance of impermanence and the enduring hope for liberation.

Panorama of the butter lamp house seen from east


Panorama of the ancient monastery
Beyond the butter lamp house, the path leads to a secluded and deeply revered structure often referred to as the ancient monastery—a sanctum that holds the spiritual heartbeat of the site.

  • This older temple, nestled among moss-covered stones and prayer flags faded by time, is believed to be part of the original complex established in the 17th century by Ngadak Sempa Chenpo, one of the three lamas who consecrated the first Chogyal of Sikkim. Its weathered façade and quiet presence evoke a sense of timelessness, as if the very stones have absorbed centuries of mantra and meditation.
  • Inside, the atmosphere shifts into a realm of deep silence and sacred resonance. The walls are adorned with ancient thangkas and statues, many of which are said to have been installed by Pedi Wangmo, a royal patron who helped expand the monastery. The central shrine often features Padmasambhava, surrounded by offerings and ritual implements that speak to the tantric lineage of the Nyingma tradition. Unlike the more public spaces of the main hall, this chamber feels intimate and initiatory—reserved for those seeking a deeper communion with the teachings.
  • Surrounding the ancient monastery are stone tablets engraved with sacred mantras, particularly the ubiquitous “Om Mani Padme Hum.” These tablets, crafted by master artisans like Yanchong Lodil, form a protective ring of prayer around the temple. Nearby, chortens built by Lhatsun Chenpo rise like spiritual beacons, each one a repository of relics and blessings. The proximity of these elements creates a layered spiritual landscape, where architecture, nature, and devotion converge in quiet harmony.
  • In the broader context of Tashiding—often called the “Heart of Sikkim”—this ancient monastery serves as a threshold to the mystical. It’s a place where pilgrims slow their steps, lower their voices, and enter a space of reflection. The journey from the butter lamp house to this hidden sanctuary mirrors the inner path of transformation: from the flicker of aspiration to the stillness of realization.

Ritual oven in front of the ancient monastery


Chorten area
The Chorten area stands as a luminous testament to centuries of devotion, spiritual mastery, and tantric symbolism.

  • This revered zone contains 41 chortens, each meticulously constructed and consecrated, forming a constellation of sacred monuments that honor Rinpoches and Tathagatas—realized beings and Buddhas. The chortens are not merely architectural features; they are repositories of relics, blessings, and spiritual power, designed to purify, protect, and inspire those who encounter them.
  • The chortens are categorized into three profound types: Chortens of Enlightenment, Chortens of Reconciliation, and Chortens of Great Miracle. The Chortens of Enlightenment are dedicated to the realization of the Buddha’s teachings and the attainment of awakening. They symbolize the culmination of the spiritual path and serve as beacons for practitioners seeking liberation. The Chortens of Reconciliation represent purification and karmic resolution, offering a space for devotees to reflect, repent, and renew their vows. Meanwhile, the Chortens of Great Miracle commemorate extraordinary events and manifestations of enlightened activity, often linked to Padmasambhava and other tantric masters.
  • Each chorten is unique in its design and ornamentation, often adorned with prayer flags, mantra-inscribed tablets, and ritual offerings. The area is enveloped in a palpable sense of sanctity, with the scent of incense drifting through the air and the sound of mantras echoing softly from nearby halls. Pilgrims circumambulate the chortens in clockwise motion, engaging in kora—a meditative practice that aligns body, speech, and mind with the sacred geometry of the site.
  • In the broader spiritual landscape of Tashiding—revered as the “Heart of Sikkim”—the Chorten area serves as a mandala of merit and mystery. It bridges the visible and invisible realms, inviting practitioners into a dialogue with the enlightened energies enshrined within each stupa. Whether one seeks healing, insight, or simply the grace of presence, the Chorten area offers a sanctuary where the timeless pulse of the dharma continues to beat.

Large bell inside the Chorten area.
Within the sacred Chorten area, a striking feature draws the eye and ear alike—the big bell, a monumental presence that resonates with both sound and symbolism.

  • Cast in bronze and suspended from a sturdy wooden frame, this bell is more than a ritual instrument; it is a sonic embodiment of the dharma, designed to awaken the mind and purify the space. Its deep, reverberating tone echoes across the hillside, mingling with the chants of pilgrims and the rustle of prayer flags, creating a soundscape that feels timeless and sacred.
  • The bell is often referred to as a dharma bell, and its placement among the 41 chortens—categorized as Chortens of Enlightenment, Reconciliation, and Great Miracle—underscores its role as a spiritual anchor. When struck, it is believed to dispel negative energies and summon the blessings of the Buddhas and bodhisattvas enshrined in the surrounding stupas. The inscriptions etched into its surface, often in flowing Tibetan script, include mantras such as “Om Mani Padme Hum,” amplifying its spiritual potency with every ring.
  • Architecturally, the bell stands beneath a canopy of Kashmir cypress trees, their towering forms adding a sense of solemnity and protection. Nearby, engraved stone tablets and moss-covered chortens create a contemplative environment, inviting pilgrims to pause and reflect. The bell’s presence in this forest-like compound transforms the area into a mandala of sound and silence, where each toll becomes a call to mindfulness and devotion.
  • In the broader context of Tashiding—revered as the “Heart of Sikkim”—the big bell serves as a threshold between worlds. It marks the transition from the outer rituals of circumambulation to the inner stillness of realization. Whether heard during the Bumchu festival or in the quiet hours of dawn, its voice carries the timeless message of the dharma: that awakening is always within reach, waiting to be heard in the silence between each ring.

Several chorten in the Chorten area
The legend of Thongwa-Rang-Grol is one of the most evocative and spiritually charged tales associated with Tashiding Monastery, often referred to as the “Heart of Sikkim.”

  • According to tradition, the three monks who consecrated the first Chogyal of Sikkim at Yuksam witnessed a miraculous event: a beam of divine light emanating from the summit of Mount Kanchendzonga, which then reflected onto a nearby hilltop. This site, bathed in celestial radiance, was further sanctified by the fragrance of incense and the ethereal sound of divine music, enveloping the area in a palpable aura of sacredness.
  • Moved by this revelation, the first Chogyal visited the site and erected a small chorten, naming it Thongwa-Rang-Grol, which translates roughly to “Self-Liberation by Sight.” This name encapsulates the mystical power attributed to the location: that simply beholding the chorten is enough to purify karmic obscurations and confer spiritual emancipation. In Vajrayana Buddhism, such places are considered tertonic treasures, revealed through divine signs and destined to aid beings in times of spiritual need.
  • The chorten itself is revered as a gateway to liberation, and pilgrims often approach it with deep reverence, believing that its presence alone can catalyze inner transformation. It stands among the 41 chortens in the monastery’s sacred precinct, but its legend elevates it to a unique status—not just a monument, but a living symbol of grace. The idea that sight alone can liberate is a profound teaching in tantric Buddhism, where perception and realization are intimately linked.
  • In the broader spiritual geography of Sikkim, Thongwa-Rang-Grol is more than folklore—it’s a spiritual beacon, a reminder that the divine can manifest in light, scent, and sound, and that sacred places are often revealed through mystical communion. The legend continues to inspire pilgrims, monks, and seekers who journey to Tashiding not only to witness its beauty but to experience the silent transmission of awakening that the chorten promises.

Sacred tree trunk in the Chorten area
Based on available sources, the area includes two giant Kashmir cypress trees.

  • These trees stood near the dharma bell and among the 41 chortens categorized as Chortens of Enlightenment, Reconciliation, and Great Miracle.
  • One of these trees has since died and only the trunk remains, it is likely still revered as a living relic, much like the chortens themselves.
  • In Himalayan Buddhist tradition, natural elements—especially trees that have stood witness to centuries of prayer and ritual—are often considered sacred.
  • The remaining trunk symbolizes impermanence, a core Buddhist teaching, while continuing to serve as a spiritual landmark for pilgrims.

Leaving Tashiding Monastery


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