Tashiding Monastery, nestled atop a heart-shaped hill in West Sikkim, is one
of the most sacred and spiritually revered sites in Tibetan Buddhism.
Founded in 1641 by Ngadak Sempa Chempo Phunshok Rigzing, a key figure in the
coronation of Sikkim’s first king, the monastery belongs to the Nyingma sect
and is often referred to as the “Heart of Sikkim” due to its central religious
significance.
It overlooks the confluence of the Rathong and Rangeet rivers, with panoramic
views of the surrounding Himalayan landscape, including the majestic
Kanchenjunga range.
The monastery complex is a harmonious blend of spiritual architecture and
natural serenity. At its entrance stands the Mani Lhakhang, adorned with
prayer flags and stone tablets inscribed with the sacred mantra “Om Mani Padme
Hum.” This leads to the main temple, known as Chogyal Lhakhang, which houses
statues of Guru Padmasambhava, Buddha Shakyamuni, and Avalokiteshvara
(Chenrezig), surrounded by thangkas and ritual offerings. Nearby is the Butter
Lamp House, where butter lamps are lit as offerings, and the Tsenkhang, a
structure used for protective rituals.
One of the most spiritually potent structures is the Thong-Wa-Rang-Dol
Chorten, a stupa believed to cleanse one’s sins simply by being seen. The
monastery also features a cluster of chortens (stupas) that preserve relics of
Sikkim’s kings and lamas, and a library housing ancient Tibetan scriptures.
Surrounding the complex are prayer wheels, which devotees spin while chanting
mantras, and residential quarters for monks dedicated to study and meditation.
Tashiding Monastery is also the site of the annual Bhumchu Festival, held in
the first month of the Tibetan lunar calendar. During this event, a sacred
vase filled with holy water is opened to predict the fortunes of the coming
year—a ritual rooted in centuries-old tantric traditions. The monastery’s
architecture, legends, and rituals make it not only a pilgrimage destination
but also a living testament to Sikkim’s spiritual heritage.
Start of the climb that leads to the monastery
|
Prayer wheels The steep path leading up to Tashiding
Monastery in Sikkim is flanked by a long line of prayer wheels, each
inscribed with the sacred mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum.”
-
As pilgrims ascend, they spin each wheel clockwise, a gesture believed
to release the mantra into the universe with every rotation. The
rhythmic clinking of the wheels, combined with the murmured recitation
of the mantra, creates a meditative cadence that transforms the
physical climb into a spiritual journey.
-
For many devotees, the act of spinning the prayer wheels is more than
ritual—it’s a source of strength. The mantra, which invokes the
blessings of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion, is said
to purify negative karma and cultivate inner peace. As the path
steepens, the repetition of “Mani” becomes a kind of spiritual fuel,
helping pilgrims overcome fatigue and focus their minds. The wheels
offer a tactile connection to the divine, grounding the climber in
devotion even as their body strains against gravity.
-
This physical ascent mirrors the metaphorical path of spiritual
elevation. Just as the climb demands perseverance, breath control, and
intention, so too does the inner journey toward enlightenment. Each
prayer wheel becomes a checkpoint—not just of altitude, but of
awareness. The effort to reach the monastery’s summit reflects the
effort required to rise above worldly distractions and ego. In this
way, the path to Tashiding becomes a living metaphor for the Buddhist
path itself: gradual, demanding, but deeply transformative.
-
By the time pilgrims reach the monastery gates, they’ve not only
scaled a hill but also engaged in a ritual of purification and
mindfulness. The prayer wheels, humble in appearance, serve as silent
companions on this journey—each spin a whisper of hope, each step a
movement toward clarity. It’s a pilgrimage that leaves its mark not
just on the soles of the feet, but on the soul.
|
Large boulder inscribed with the mantra in five colors As
pilgrims ascend the winding path to Tashiding Monastery, they encounter
a striking boulder inscribed with the sacred mantra “Om Mani Padme
Hum”—each syllable painted in a different color: white, green, yellow,
blue, and red.
-
This boulder stands not only as a visual landmark but as a spiritual
beacon, radiating the essence of Tibetan Buddhist devotion. The colors
are not arbitrary; they correspond to the five Buddha families and the
five elements, each representing a facet of enlightened consciousness.
-
The mantra itself is deeply significant in Mahayana Buddhism,
especially within the Nyingma tradition practiced at Tashiding. “Om
Mani Padme Hum” is a prayer to Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of
compassion. Each syllable carries a transformative power:
-
Om (white) purifies pride and ego, linked to the element of space.
- Ma (green) purifies jealousy and envy, associated with air.
- Ni (yellow) purifies passion and desire, tied to earth.
-
Pad (blue) purifies ignorance and prejudice, connected to water.
- Me (red) purifies greed and possessiveness, linked to fire.
-
Hum (often depicted in deep indigo or black) seals the prayer and
represents unity and wisdom.
-
The boulder’s placement along the path is intentional—it invites
pilgrims to pause, reflect, and recite the mantra as they climb. The
act of chanting while gazing upon the colored inscription is believed
to harmonize the body’s energies and align the mind with compassion.
It’s a moment of spiritual calibration before reaching the monastery’s
sacred precincts.
-
In many ways, this boulder serves as a threshold between the mundane
and the divine. Its vivid colors and ancient script echo the timeless
teachings of the Dharma, reminding travelers that enlightenment is not
a distant goal but a path walked step by step, mantra by mantra. The
climb may be steep, but each syllable offers a foothold in the ascent
toward clarity and compassion.
|
Continuing up towards the main gate
|
Wind-powered prayer wheels As pilgrims make their way up the
winding path to Tashiding Monastery, they encounter a unique and quietly
mesmerizing feature: wind-powered prayer wheels.
-
These wheels, unlike the traditional hand-spun ones, are set into
motion by the mountain breeze that sweeps through the valley.
Suspended on metal or wooden frames, they catch the wind with small
vanes or flags, turning gently and continuously. Each rotation is
believed to release the sacred mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum” into the
universe, offering blessings to all sentient beings.
-
The presence of these wind-powered wheels adds a layer of serenity to
the pilgrimage. Their constant motion, driven by nature itself,
symbolizes the effortless flow of compassion and wisdom. For pilgrims,
this means that even the elements are participating in prayer—wind
becomes a silent devotee, spinning mantras day and night. It’s a
reminder that spiritual practice isn’t confined to human effort alone;
the natural world, too, plays a role in sustaining sacred energy.
-
These wheels also serve as a metaphor for the Buddhist path. Just as
the wind turns the wheels without force or struggle, the path to
enlightenment is ideally one of surrender and harmony. The wheels spin
without ego, without grasping—just as practitioners are encouraged to
let go of attachments and allow the Dharma to guide them. Their quiet
presence along the trail offers a moment of reflection: can one move
forward in life with the same grace and rhythm?
-
By the time pilgrims reach the monastery, they’ve walked alongside
these silent companions, absorbing their message of effortless
devotion. The wind-powered prayer wheels don’t demand attention—they
simply exist, turning prayers into motion, motion into meaning. In a
world often driven by noise and urgency, their gentle spinning is a
call to stillness, reminding all who pass that even the wind knows how
to pray.
|
Entrance gate to the monastery The entrance gate to
Tashiding Monastery is more than a threshold—it’s a symbolic passage
into sacred space.
-
As pilgrims approach the monastery, the gate stands as a sentinel of
spiritual transition, marking the shift from the worldly to the
divine. Its structure is typically adorned with vibrant prayer flags
and intricate woodwork, but what captures the eye most are the two
dragons carved at either end of the lintel beam, facing outward with
fierce grace. These dragons are not merely decorative; they embody
deep layers of Tibetan Buddhist symbolism.
-
In Buddhist iconography, dragons represent power, protection, and
enlightenment. Positioned at the gate’s upper beam, they serve as
guardians of the Dharma, warding off negative energies and ensuring
that only those with pure intentions enter the monastery grounds.
Their placement also evokes the mythical role of dragons as carriers
of rain and thunder—forces of nature that cleanse and renew. In this
context, the dragons are seen as protectors of spiritual purity,
echoing the monastery’s role as a place of inner transformation.
-
Passing beneath these dragons is a ritual in itself. Pilgrims often
pause at the gate, bowing slightly or offering a silent prayer before
stepping through. The act of crossing under the dragons is symbolic of
leaving behind ego and distraction, and entering a space of
mindfulness and devotion. The gate thus becomes a liminal zone—a
moment of spiritual recalibration before engaging with the sacred
architecture and rituals within.
-
The dragons also reflect the monastery’s connection to Guru
Padmasambhava, the tantric master who is said to have subdued demonic
forces and established Buddhism in the Himalayas. Their fierce
expressions and poised stance echo his teachings: that enlightenment
requires courage, discipline, and the ability to confront inner
demons. In this way, the entrance gate is not just a physical
structure—it’s a spiritual statement, inviting all who enter to walk
the path with reverence and resolve.
|
Mani Lhakhang Just beyond the entrance gate to Tashiding
Monastery stands a distinctive and spiritually charged structure: the
Mani Lhakhang, a small temple completely encircled by prayer wheels on
all four sides.
-
This building is the first architectural feature that greets pilgrims
and visitors, and it serves as a kind of spiritual vestibule—a place
to pause, reflect, and begin the journey inward. The prayer wheels,
inscribed with the mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum,” form a continuous ring
around the building, inviting devotees to walk clockwise and spin each
wheel as they chant the sacred syllables.
-
The Mani Lhakhang is modest in size but rich in symbolism. Its central
location at the entrance underscores its role as a purifier—before one
steps into the deeper sanctums of the monastery, one is encouraged to
engage in this tactile form of devotion. The act of spinning the
wheels is believed to release the mantra into the universe, generating
merit and cleansing negative karma. The building’s design, with its
open access on all sides, allows pilgrims to circle it multiple times,
creating a rhythm of movement and prayer that sets the tone for the
rest of the visit.
-
Architecturally, the Mani Lhakhang reflects traditional Tibetan
Buddhist aesthetics. Its sloping roof is adorned with colorful
woodwork and auspicious symbols, while the interior often houses a
small altar with butter lamps and thangkas. The surrounding prayer
wheels are mounted on wooden frames, each one carefully maintained by
the monastery’s resident monks. The constant motion of these
wheels—whether turned by hand or by the breeze—imbues the space with a
sense of living prayer, as if the building itself is breathing
devotion.
-
In essence, this building is more than a structure—it’s a spiritual
engine. It transforms the simple act of arrival into a ritual of
mindfulness and intention. For many pilgrims, the Mani Lhakhang is not
just the beginning of a physical journey up the hill—it’s the first
step on a path toward inner clarity and compassion.
|
Panorama with the main building (left), a new large building (center)
and Mani Lhakhang (right) A large building is under construction against the south side of
Mani Lhakhang.
|
Details of the large building under construction
|
House of the great prayer wheel (left) and the large building under
construction (right)
|
Great prayer wheel The large prayer wheel stands as a
vibrant axis of devotion and spiritual motion. Housed in a modest
structure near the main hall, this ornate wheel is wrapped in
mantra-inscribed panels, most prominently the sacred syllables of
Om Mani Padme Hum.
-
Its cylindrical body is painted in rich reds and golds, often adorned
with lotus motifs and protective deities, reflecting the monastery’s
deep roots in the Nyingma tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. The wheel is
mounted on a central spindle, allowing it to spin with a gentle
push—each rotation believed to release thousands of prayers into the
universe.
-
Locals and pilgrims alike engage with the wheel in a ritual known as
kora, walking clockwise around it while spinning it with reverence.
This act is not merely symbolic—it’s a meditative practice that aligns
body, speech, and mind with the dharma. The wheel contains scrolls of
printed mantras inside, amplifying its spiritual potency. As it turns,
it’s said to generate merit, purify karma, and invoke the blessings of
Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. The rhythmic creak of
its rotation becomes part of the monastery’s soundscape, mingling with
chants, bells, and the rustle of prayer flags.
-
Architecturally, the prayer wheel is sheltered beneath a wooden
canopy, often supported by carved pillars and surrounded by smaller
wheels or offering tables. Its placement near the main hall ensures
that it’s part of the daily devotional flow, accessible to monks and
visitors alike. During festivals like Bumchu, the wheel becomes a
focal point of communal prayer, its motion echoing the cyclical nature
of existence and the turning of the dharma.
-
In the broader spiritual landscape of Tashiding—revered as the “Heart
of Sikkim”—this prayer wheel serves as a living mandala, a tactile
gateway to awakening. It invites not only physical interaction but
inner reflection, reminding all who pass that even the simplest
gesture—a turn of the wheel—can ripple outward with profound spiritual
consequence.
|
Panorama of the facade of the main building The facade of
the main building at Tashiding Monastery, known as the Chogyal Lhakhang,
is a vivid expression of Tibetan Buddhist architecture and spiritual
symbolism.
-
Facing east to greet the rising sun, the structure is adorned with
intricately carved wooden beams painted in auspicious colors—deep
reds, golds, and blues. The entrance is framed by a series of prayer
flags fluttering in the wind, each carrying mantras and blessings
across the valley. Above the doorway, protective deities and
auspicious symbols are painted or carved into the lintel, offering
spiritual protection to all who enter.
-
Flanking the entrance are two guardian murals, often depicting
wrathful deities like Mahakala or Vajrapani, whose fierce expressions
are meant to ward off negative energies. These figures are balanced by
more serene depictions of bodhisattvas and lineage masters, creating a
visual dialogue between compassion and protection. The walls of the
façade are typically whitewashed, symbolizing purity, and punctuated
by small windows with brightly colored wooden frames—each one carved
with floral or geometric motifs.
-
The roofline of the main building is equally striking, with its tiered
structure and upturned eaves echoing the style of traditional
Himalayan temples. Golden finials and dharma wheels crown the roof,
representing the turning of the wheel of Dharma and the spread of
Buddhist teachings. Small bells hang from the corners, chiming softly
in the breeze and adding a layer of auditory serenity to the visual
splendor.
-
Together, these elements make the façade of the Chogyal Lhakhang not
just an architectural feature, but a spiritual threshold. It invites
pilgrims to leave behind worldly distractions and step into a realm of
devotion, reflection, and sacred ritual. Every detail—from the colors
to the carvings—serves as a visual mantra, guiding the eye and the
heart toward the teachings housed within.
|
Two ritual ovens in front of the monastery In front of the
main building of Tashiding Monastery—the Chogyal Lhakhang—stand two
ritual ovens that play a vital role in the monastery’s ceremonial life.
-
These ovens, often simple in construction but rich in symbolism, are
used for fire offerings known as sang or jinsek. Monks
and pilgrims gather around them during important rituals to burn
juniper, herbs, grains, and butter, creating fragrant smoke that is
believed to purify the environment and invoke blessings from
protective deities. The rising smoke is seen as a bridge between the
earthly and the divine, carrying prayers upward into the sacred
Himalayan sky.
-
These fire offerings are deeply connected to mountain worship, a
tradition rooted in the belief that mountains are the abodes of
powerful spirits and guardian deities. In Sikkimese Buddhism, Mount
Kanchenjunga is revered as a living deity, and rituals performed at
Tashiding often include invocations to this mountain and others in the
region. The ovens serve as focal points for these invocations, with
the fire symbolizing transformation and the smoke acting as a
messenger to the mountain gods. By making offerings here,
practitioners seek harmony with the natural world and protection from
unseen forces.
-
The placement of the ovens directly in front of the main temple is no
accident—it reflects their role as gateways to sacred space. Before
entering the temple for deeper rituals, devotees often participate in
or witness these fire offerings, allowing the smoke to cleanse their
minds and bodies. The act of burning offerings is both a gesture of
devotion and a spiritual preparation, aligning the practitioner with
the energies of the land and the teachings of the Buddha. It’s a
moment of grounding, where the elemental power of fire meets the lofty
aspirations of prayer.
-
In essence, these ritual ovens are more than ceremonial tools—they are
living altars that connect the monastery to the mountains, the monks
to the spirits, and the pilgrims to their own inner clarity. Their
flames flicker with centuries of tradition, and their smoke carries
the timeless message of reverence, purification, and unity with the
sacred landscape of Sikkim.
|
Geruda above the portico entrance Above the entrance door to
the main building of Tashiding Monastery, the depiction of Garuda
grasping a serpent with both hands and its beak carries profound
symbolic and spiritual significance.
-
In Tibetan Buddhist iconography, Garuda is a mythical bird-like
creature known for its immense power, speed, and ability to soar above
worldly illusions. By placing Garuda above the temple’s threshold, the
monastery invokes his protective energy, ensuring that all who enter
are shielded from spiritual harm and negative influences.
-
The serpent in Garuda’s grasp represents ignorance, delusion, and
harmful forces—elements that obstruct the path to enlightenment.
Garuda’s act of subduing the serpent is not merely a mythological
battle; it’s a metaphor for the triumph of wisdom over ignorance. His
fierce expression and dynamic posture remind pilgrims that entering
the temple is an act of spiritual courage, a commitment to confront
and transcend inner demons. The placement above the door suggests that
one must symbolically pass beneath this act of purification to access
the sacred teachings within.
-
This motif also reflects the tantric traditions practiced at
Tashiding, where transformation and protection are central themes.
Garuda is often associated with Guru Padmasambhava, the tantric master
who subdued malevolent spirits and established Buddhism in the
Himalayas. In this context, Garuda becomes a guardian of the Dharma,
ensuring that the monastery remains a sanctuary of clarity and
compassion. His presence above the entrance is a visual mantra—a
reminder that the path to awakening requires vigilance and inner
strength.
-
For pilgrims, the image of Garuda is both awe-inspiring and
reassuring. It signals that the monastery is not just a place of
worship, but a fortress of spiritual integrity. As they step through
the doorway, they do so under the watchful gaze of a being who
embodies the fearless pursuit of truth. In this way, Garuda’s
appearance is not just decorative—it’s a declaration of the
monastery’s sacred purpose.
|
Wheel of Life On the porch, the representation of the Wheel
of Life—also known as the Bhavachakra—serves as a vivid and profound
teaching tool. This intricate mural or relief painting typically appears
near the entrance, greeting pilgrims with a visual summary of Buddhist
cosmology and the cycle of samsara, or rebirth.
-
At its center are the three poisons—a pig (ignorance), a snake
(hatred), and a rooster (desire)—which drive the wheel’s rotation and
symbolize the root causes of suffering.
-
Surrounding the center are the six realms of existence: gods,
demi-gods, humans, animals, hungry ghosts, and hell beings. Each realm
is depicted with its own unique imagery, showing the joys and torments
experienced by beings trapped in the cycle of rebirth. The human
realm, often shown with a figure meditating, is considered the most
favorable for attaining enlightenment. The outer ring illustrates the
twelve links of dependent origination, a sequence that explains how
ignorance leads to suffering and rebirth, reinforcing the
interconnectedness of all phenomena.
-
Encircling the entire wheel is the fearsome figure of Yama, the Lord
of Death, who holds the wheel in his grasp. His presence reminds
viewers that all conditioned existence is impermanent and subject to
decay. Yet, in the upper corner of the painting, one often finds a
depiction of the moon or Buddha pointing toward liberation,
symbolizing the possibility of breaking free from the cycle through
wisdom and compassion.
-
At Tashiding, this representation is not just a doctrinal diagram—it’s
a spiritual mirror. Pilgrims pause before it to reflect on their own
lives, choices, and karmic patterns. The Wheel of Life invites
contemplation and humility, urging visitors to enter the monastery not
just with reverence, but with a renewed commitment to awakening. Its
placement on the porch ensures that every step into the sacred space
is preceded by a moment of deep introspection.
|
Dhrtarastra, the Heavenly King of the East On the portico,
the figure of Dhrtarastra, the King of the East, appears in a striking
and contemplative pose, playing a pipa, a traditional stringed
instrument.
-
As one of the Four Heavenly Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Dhrtarastra
is the guardian of the eastern direction and the patron of celestial
musicians known as Gandharvas. His depiction with the pipa emphasizes
his role as a protector through harmony and sound, suggesting that
music itself can be a vehicle for spiritual protection and awakening.
-
Beside Dhrtarastra stands a small dakini, gracefully playing a
transverse flute. Dakinis are embodiments of wisdom and enlightened
energy in Vajrayana Buddhism, often portrayed as playful, fierce, or
ecstatic. Her presence adds a lyrical counterpoint to Dhrtarastra’s
solemn music, creating a visual duet that evokes both discipline and
spontaneity. The flute’s melody is believed to stir the heart and
dissolve mental obscurations, while the pipa’s deeper tones anchor the
mind in clarity and resolve.
-
Together, these figures form a symbolic gateway to the monastery’s
inner sanctum. Positioned on the portico, they invite pilgrims to
enter not just physically but spiritually—prepared to harmonize their
inner energies and attune themselves to the teachings within. The
pairing of Dhrtarastra and the dakini reflects the tantric principle
of balancing masculine and feminine forces, protection and
inspiration, structure and flow.
-
This tableau is more than ornamental—it’s a living teaching rendered
in form and gesture. As pilgrims pass beneath their gaze, they are
reminded that the path to enlightenment is not only guarded by
strength but also guided by beauty, rhythm, and the transformative
power of sound.
|
Vaisravana, the Heavenly King of the North On the porch, the
representation of Vaisravana, the Heavenly King of the North, stands as
a commanding figure of protection and prosperity.
-
As one of the Four Heavenly Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Vaisravana is
traditionally depicted wearing ornate armor and a regal crown,
symbolizing his status as a celestial guardian. At Tashiding, he is
shown holding a banner or parasol, signifying his sovereignty and his
role as a protector of the Dharma. His posture is upright and
vigilant, facing outward as if surveying the northern horizon, ready
to defend the monastery from spiritual threats.
-
Vaisravana is also revered as the god of wealth and the leader of the
yaksha spirits, beings associated with abundance and natural forces.
His presence on the porch is not merely decorative—it’s a spiritual
statement. Positioned at the northern edge of the temple’s threshold,
he anchors the monastery’s protective energy, ensuring that the sacred
space remains undisturbed by negative influences. His image often
includes a mongoose spitting jewels, a symbol of generosity and the
defeat of greed, reinforcing his dual role as both guardian and
benefactor.
-
The placement of Vaisravana at Tashiding reflects the monastery’s deep
connection to tantric traditions, where deities embody both worldly
and spiritual powers. His fierce yet benevolent expression reminds
pilgrims that the path to enlightenment requires both vigilance and
compassion. As devotees pass beneath his gaze, they are symbolically
entering a space where spiritual wealth is safeguarded and inner
clarity is cultivated.
-
In this way, Vaisravana’s representation is more than iconography—it’s
a living embodiment of the monastery’s mission. He stands as a
sentinel of the sacred, a reminder that true prosperity lies not in
material gain, but in the protection and practice of the Dharma. His
silent watch over the porch is a call to enter with reverence,
courage, and an open heart.
|
Virupaksa, the Heavenly King of the West On the portico, the
representation of Virupaksa, the Heavenly King of the West, stands as a
vigilant guardian of spiritual truth.
-
As one of the Four Heavenly Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Virupaksa is
traditionally associated with clear vision and insight, his name
meaning “wide-eyed” or “far-seeing.” At Tashiding, he is depicted in a
commanding stance, often holding a serpent or lasso, symbolizing his
power to bind and subdue ignorance and harmful forces. His gaze is
intense, scanning the western horizon as if to shield the monastery
from unseen threats.
-
Virupaksa’s presence on the portico is not merely ornamental—it’s
deeply symbolic. Positioned to guard the western direction, he
embodies the principle of watchfulness and discernment, qualities
essential to the Buddhist path. His image serves as a reminder that
spiritual progress requires clarity of mind and the courage to
confront delusion. The serpent he holds is not just a symbol of danger
but also of transformation, suggesting that what binds us can also be
transmuted through wisdom.
-
The artistic rendering of Virupaksa at Tashiding often includes
elaborate armor and a crown, signifying his celestial status and
protective role. His posture is dynamic, suggesting readiness and
resolve, while his expression balances fierceness with compassion.
This duality reflects the tantric ethos of the monastery, where
wrathful deities are seen not as malevolent but as fierce protectors
of the Dharma. His placement on the portico—alongside other guardian
kings—creates a spiritual perimeter, ensuring that the sacred space
within remains undisturbed.
-
For pilgrims, passing beneath Virupaksa’s gaze is a moment of
reflection. It’s a symbolic crossing from the distractions of the
outer world into the clarity of the inner path. His image invites
visitors to cultivate insight, to see beyond appearances, and to walk
the monastery grounds with awakened awareness. In this way, Virupaksa
is not just a guardian of the west—he is a guardian of the mind.
|
Virudhaka, the Heavenly King of the South On the porch, the
representation of Virudhaka, the Heavenly King of the South, stands as a
formidable guardian of spiritual growth and discipline.
-
As one of the Four Heavenly Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Virudhaka is
traditionally associated with the southern direction and is revered as
the leader of the kumbhandas—fierce, otherworldly beings who dwell in
the desire realms. At Tashiding, he is typically depicted in full
armor, his posture upright and commanding, with a stern gaze that
seems to pierce through illusion and distraction.
-
Virudhaka is often shown wielding a sword, the symbolic weapon of
wisdom and purification. This sword is not meant for violence but for
cutting through ignorance and ego—qualities that obstruct the path to
enlightenment. His presence on the monastery’s porch serves as a
spiritual checkpoint, reminding pilgrims that the journey ahead
requires clarity, courage, and the willingness to confront inner
demons. The sword also reflects his role as a protector of the Dharma,
ensuring that the teachings within the monastery remain undisturbed by
negative forces.
-
The artistic rendering of Virudhaka may include vivid colors—often
green or blue—and elaborate details such as a crown, flowing robes,
and wrathful facial features. These elements are not meant to
intimidate but to convey his fierce compassion and unwavering
commitment to safeguarding sacred space. His image is often balanced
by more serene figures nearby, creating a visual harmony between
wrathful protection and peaceful devotion.
-
For those entering Tashiding Monastery, passing beneath Virudhaka’s
watchful gaze is a symbolic act of purification. It marks the
transition from the outer world into a realm of spiritual practice,
where growth is not just encouraged but fiercely protected. His silent
presence on the porch is a call to awaken, to shed distractions, and
to walk the path with integrity and resolve.
|
Shakyamuni Buddha at the entrance to the main hall of the
monastery At the entrance to the main hall stands a serene and radiant
golden statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, a figure that immediately commands
reverence and reflection.
-
Seated upright in a meditative posture, the Buddha is depicted wearing
a long, ankle-length robe that drapes gracefully over his body,
symbolizing simplicity and detachment from worldly desires. His bare
feet rest gently on the pedestal, grounding the image in humility and
openness. The statue’s golden hue reflects not only artistic
craftsmanship but also the spiritual luminosity associated with
enlightenment.
-
The Buddha’s right hand is raised, palm facing outward, in the Abhaya
Mudra—a gesture of fearlessness and protection. Engraved on the palm
is the wheel of Dharma, a powerful emblem representing the Buddha’s
first teaching at Sarnath and the continuous turning of the Dharma in
the world. This detail reinforces the statue’s role as a guardian of
wisdom and a beacon of spiritual guidance for all who enter the
monastery. The left hand, bent downward and gently holding a corner of
the robe, adds a touch of grace and balance, suggesting both humility
and the readiness to engage with the suffering of sentient beings.
-
This particular representation of Shakyamuni Buddha is not merely
decorative—it serves as a threshold figure, marking the transition
from the outer world into the sacred interior of the Chogyal Lhakhang.
Pilgrims often pause before it, offering prayers or simply absorbing
its quiet majesty. The statue’s posture and gestures invite visitors
to shed fear, embrace clarity, and enter the temple with a heart open
to transformation.
-
In the context of Tashiding’s rich spiritual landscape, this golden
Buddha becomes a living symbol of the monastery’s mission: to
cultivate compassion, wisdom, and inner peace. Its presence at the
entrance is a silent sermon, reminding all who pass that the journey
inward begins with courage, mindfulness, and the turning of the Dharma
wheel within.
-
Photographs by Anjan Kumar Kundu and Amitabha Gupta, distributed under
a CC-BY 4.0 license.
|
Mail hall The main hall of Tashiding Monastery, known as the
Chogyal Lhakhang, is the spiritual heart of the complex—a place where
ritual, meditation, and community converge.
-
Stepping inside, one is immediately enveloped by the scent of juniper
incense and the soft glow of butter lamps. The walls are adorned with
vibrant thangkas and murals depicting deities, lineage masters, and
scenes from the life of Guru Padmasambhava, whose altar stands at the
far end of the hall. This altar is richly decorated with offerings,
ritual implements, and statues, serving as the focal point for
ceremonies and daily prayers.
-
Arranged in neat rows perpendicular to the Padmasambhava altar are the
benches for the monks, simple wooden platforms that stretch across the
hall. These benches are not merely seats—they are stations of
devotion, where monks sit cross-legged during pujas, chanting mantras
and playing ritual instruments like cymbals and long horns. The
perpendicular layout ensures that every monk faces the altar,
reinforcing the collective orientation toward the sacred. The symmetry
of the benches also reflects the disciplined rhythm of monastic life,
where each gesture and chant is part of a larger spiritual
choreography.
-
Flanking the altar are two elevated thrones, one on each side,
reserved for senior teachers or visiting lamas. These thrones are
ornately carved and draped with ceremonial silk scarves (khatas),
signifying respect and lineage. Their placement closest to the altar
underscores the teachers’ role as conduits of wisdom and ritual
authority. During important ceremonies, these thrones are occupied by
figures who lead the chants, deliver teachings, or perform
initiations, anchoring the spiritual energy of the gathering.
-
The overall atmosphere of the assembly hall is one of reverence and
quiet intensity. Every element—from the benches to the thrones, from
the flickering lamps to the painted deities—works in harmony to create
a space where the mundane dissolves and the sacred becomes palpable.
It’s a hall not just of assembly, but of transformation, where the
teachings of Padmasambhava continue to echo through the chants of
devoted practitioners.
-
Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0
license.
|
Padmasambhava altar At the heart of the main hall of
Tashiding Monastery, the altar stands as a radiant focal point of
devotion and ritual.
-
Richly adorned with butter lamps, offering bowls, and ceremonial
scarves, it is framed by thangkas and murals that depict scenes from
the life of Guru Padmasambhava, the tantric master who is revered as
the second Buddha in Himalayan Buddhism. The air around the altar is
thick with incense and the low hum of mantras, creating a space where
the sacred feels tangible and immediate.
-
Dominating the altar is a golden statue of Padmasambhava, seated in
regal stillness. In his right hand, he holds a vajra, the thunderbolt
scepter that symbolizes indestructible wisdom and spiritual power. His
left hand, bent downward, gently cradles a jeweled cap, a symbol of
his mastery over the esoteric teachings and his role as a transmitter
of hidden knowledge. His gaze is calm yet penetrating, inviting both
reverence and introspection. The statue is often surrounded by smaller
images of his eight manifestations, each representing a different
aspect of his enlightened activity.
-
For the monks and pilgrims of Tashiding, Padmasambhava is not just a
historical figure—he is the living soul of the monastery. It is
believed that he consecrated the land of Sikkim and concealed
spiritual treasures (terma) in its mountains and rivers. His teachings
form the backbone of the Nyingma tradition practiced here, and his
image on the altar serves as a daily reminder of the transformative
power of devotion, discipline, and compassion. During major festivals
like Bhumchu, his presence is invoked through elaborate rituals and
chants that echo through the hall.
-
The altar, with Padmasambhava at its center, is more than a place of
worship—it is a spiritual engine that powers the monastery’s rhythm of
prayer and practice. It anchors the monks in their lineage and offers
pilgrims a moment of communion with the sacred. Every gesture made
before it—whether lighting a lamp, offering a flower, or whispering a
mantra—is a step closer to the clarity and fearlessness that
Padmasambhava embodies.
-
Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0
license.
|
Padmasambhava is flanked by his two spiritual consorts Flanking the central figure of Padmasambhava at the altar in the
main assembly hall of Tashiding Monastery are two female attendants,
traditionally understood to be his spiritual consorts—each embodying
distinct aspects of tantric wisdom.
-
These figures are not merely decorative; they represent the union of
method and insight, devotion and realization, which are central to
Vajrayana Buddhism. Their symmetrical placement beside Padmasambhava
reinforces his role as the tantric master who harmonizes opposites and
transforms duality into awakening.
-
The consort on Padmasambhava’s left is more richly adorned, dressed in
elaborate robes with intricate patterns and jewelry that reflect her
elevated status and esoteric power. She is often identified with Yeshe
Tsogyal, the enlightened yogini and principal disciple of
Padmasambhava. Her regal bearing and ornate attire symbolize the depth
of spiritual realization and the richness of inner wisdom. In her
hands, she offers a small cup, a gesture of devotion and transmission,
while performing the Surya mudra, a hand gesture associated with
vitality, clarity, and the dispelling of darkness.
-
On Padmasambhava’s right side, the second consort is more lightly
dressed, her garments simpler and her demeanor more subdued. This
contrast suggests a complementary energy—perhaps representing the
earthly, accessible aspect of feminine wisdom. She too offers a small
cup and performs the Surya mudra, mirroring the gesture of her
counterpart. The repetition of this mudra by both figures creates a
visual rhythm of offering and illumination, reinforcing
Padmasambhava’s role as the receiver and transmitter of transformative
energy.
-
Together, these two consorts form a triadic composition with
Padmasambhava at the center, embodying the tantric principle of union
between wisdom and method. Their presence at the altar is not just
symbolic—it’s a living teaching rendered in form and gesture. For
monks and pilgrims alike, this tableau serves as a reminder that
enlightenment is not a solitary pursuit but a dynamic interplay of
forces, devotion, and insight.
-
Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0
license.
|
Lhatsun Namkha Jigme On the left side of the Padmasambhava
altar, the figure of Lhatsun Namkha Jigme commands attention with a
presence that is both fierce and deeply symbolic.
-
His blue body radiates the wrathful compassion often associated with
tantric deities—an embodiment of enlightened energy that subdues
ignorance and obstacles. This color, in Vajrayana iconography, is not
merely aesthetic; it represents the vastness of space and the
transformative power of the dharma.
-
Adorning his head is a crown of skulls, a potent symbol of
impermanence and the transcendence of ego. Each skull signifies a
conquered delusion, and together they form a regal diadem of spiritual
mastery. His trident, gripped firmly, bears three heads—a triadic
motif that may represent the purification of body, speech, and mind,
or the overcoming of the three poisons: ignorance, attachment, and
aversion. The trident itself is a weapon of spiritual power, piercing
through illusion and duality.
-
In his right hand, Lhatsun holds a human tibia bone, fashioned into a
ritual trumpet known as a kangling. This instrument,
traditionally used in Chod practice, evokes the call to cut through
attachment to the self. It’s a chilling yet sacred reminder of
mortality and the urgency of spiritual practice. His left hand cradles
a skullcap, or kapala, often filled with offerings in tantric
rituals. This vessel, made from the top of a human skull, symbolizes
the transformation of base desires into enlightened wisdom.
-
Together, these elements form a tableau of tantric symbolism that is
both esoteric and evocative. Lhatsun Namkha Jigme’s depiction at
Tashiding is not merely decorative—it’s a visual sermon in wrathful
compassion, urging practitioners to confront the raw truths of
existence and embrace the path of liberation. His placement on the
altar, flanking Padmasambhava, reinforces his role as a guardian of
the teachings and a revealer of hidden treasures (terma) in the
sacred landscape of Sikkim.
|
Amitayus Buddha On the right side of the Padmasambhava
altar, the serene figure of Amitayus Buddha offers a striking contrast
to the wrathful deities often found in tantric iconography.
-
Amitayus, the Buddha of Infinite Life, is depicted in a tranquil
meditative posture, his presence radiating boundless compassion and
longevity. His calm demeanor and gentle gaze evoke a sense of
spiritual refuge, inviting practitioners to contemplate the nature of
life and the aspiration for enlightenment.
-
Cradled in both hands at the level of his abdomen is a vase, known as
the kalasha, which is filled with the nectar of immortality.
This sacred vessel is not merely symbolic—it represents the essence of
Amitayus’s blessings: long life, merit, and wisdom. The vase’s
placement at the abdomen, near the center of the body, aligns with the
energetic hub of vitality in tantric physiology, reinforcing the
deity’s role as a guardian of life force and spiritual continuity.
-
Amitayus is often portrayed wearing ornate robes and a jeweled crown,
signifying his status as a celestial Buddha within the Mahayana and
Vajrayana traditions. His adornments are not worldly but symbolic of
enlightened qualities—each jewel representing a perfected virtue. The
backdrop of the altar, with its intricate carvings and offerings,
frames Amitayus in a sacred narrative that complements Padmasambhava’s
transformative power with the promise of enduring spiritual life.
-
In the context of Tashiding Monastery, Amitayus’s presence is deeply
resonant. This site, revered as the “Heart of Sikkim,” is a place of
pilgrimage and renewal. The inclusion of Amitayus on the altar
underscores the monastery’s role in fostering not only liberation from
suffering but also the cultivation of longevity and spiritual
vitality. His image serves as a gentle reminder that enlightenment is
not only a destination but a sustained journey nourished by compassion
and wisdom.
-
Photographs by Anjan Kumar Kundu and Amitabha Gupta, distributed under
a CC-BY 4.0 license.
|
Wall painting of Padmasambhava with vajra and jewel-topped
skullcap Padmasambhava, revered as the Lotus-Born Guru, is often depicted
holding a vajra in his right hand and a jeweled skullcap in his left, a
pairing that encapsulates the dynamic balance of enlightened activity
and profound wisdom.
-
The vajra, or dorje, is a ritual scepter symbolizing
indestructibility and the thunderbolt of awakening. In his right
hand—traditionally associated with action—it represents
Padmasambhava’s power to cut through delusion and protect the dharma.
It’s not merely a weapon but a spiritual tool that channels the
clarity and force of awakened mind.
-
The jeweled skullcap, or kapala, held in his left hand, is a
vessel of transformation. Crafted from a human cranium and adorned
with precious stones, it symbolizes the transmutation of base desires
into enlightened offerings. In tantric rituals, the kapala is often
filled with nectar or sacred substances, representing the essence of
wisdom and the blissful realization of emptiness. Its placement in the
left hand—linked to receptivity and inner realization—underscores
Padmasambhava’s mastery of the inner yogic path and his role as a
transmitter of esoteric teachings.
-
Together, these two objects form a visual dialogue between method and
wisdom, the twin pillars of Vajrayana practice. The vajra is the
method: fierce compassion, skillful means, and the active engagement
with samsara to liberate beings. The skullcap is the wisdom: the deep
understanding of emptiness, impermanence, and the nature of mind.
Padmasambhava’s posture, often seated in royal ease atop a lotus and
moon disc, reinforces this union—he is both the conqueror of obstacles
and the embodiment of transcendent insight.
-
In the sacred setting of Tashiding Monastery, this iconography takes
on added resonance. Padmasambhava is not just a historical figure but
a living presence in the spiritual landscape of Sikkim. His symbolic
attributes invite practitioners to reflect on their own path: to wield
the vajra of fearless compassion and to drink from the skullcap of
transformative wisdom. It’s a call to integrate outer action with
inner realization—a dance of thunder and silence on the lotus of
awakening.
-
Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0
license.
|
Wall painting of Padmasambhava in "father-mother" (yab-yum)
posture In the yab-yum posture, Padmasambhava is depicted in intimate
union with his consort—often Yeshe Tsogyal—symbolizing the profound
integration of method and wisdom, the two essential aspects of
enlightenment in Vajrayana Buddhism.
-
“Yab” means father and “yum” means mother, and their embrace is not
merely erotic or romantic; it is a visual metaphor for the non-dual
nature of reality. Padmasambhava, representing skillful means and
compassionate action, merges with the feminine principle of insight
and transcendent wisdom. Their union dissolves the illusion of
separation, pointing to the ultimate truth beyond conceptual thought.
-
This posture is deeply rooted in Anuttarayoga Tantra, the highest
class of tantric practice, where the practitioner visualizes the deity
in union to cultivate blissful awareness and penetrate the nature of
emptiness. The male figure’s active stance and the female’s receptive
posture reflect the dynamic interplay of energies within the
practitioner’s own body and mind. Far from being literal, the imagery
serves as a meditative aid, guiding the practitioner toward the
realization that enlightenment arises from the harmony of
opposites—compassion and wisdom, form and emptiness, movement and
stillness.
-
Padmasambhava in yab-yum also embodies the transmission of esoteric
teachings, especially those revealed through terma (hidden treasures).
The consort is not a passive figure but a co-equal partner in the
dance of realization, often portrayed as a dakini or wisdom goddess
who activates the latent potential of the practitioner. Their union is
a sacred ritual space where the boundaries of ego dissolve, and the
practitioner is invited to experience the blissful clarity of awakened
mind.
-
In sacred sites like Tashiding Monastery, such iconography carries
added resonance. It’s not just a depiction—it’s a living symbol of
transformation, reminding devotees that enlightenment is not achieved
through denial or suppression, but through the full embrace of life’s
energies, refined and directed toward liberation. Padmasambhava in
yab-yum is a mirror of the practitioner’s own journey: fierce, tender,
and ultimately transcendent.
-
Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0
license.
|
Wall painting of Jatson Nyingpo (left) The radiant depiction
of Jatson Nyingpo is a vivid embodiment of tantric mastery and spiritual
transcendence.
-
His right arm raised, clutching a vajra, signifies the indestructible
clarity of awakened mind and the fierce compassion that cuts through
ignorance. The vajra, a thunderbolt of spiritual resolve, is not
merely symbolic—it’s a declaration of his role as a terton, a revealer
of hidden teachings (terma) meant to awaken practitioners in
times of spiritual decline.
-
In contrast, his left arm lowered, holding a phurba—a ritual
dagger—anchors his presence in the realm of wrathful protection and
transformation. The phurba is traditionally used to subdue negative
forces and obstacles on the path, and in Jatson Nyingpo’s hand, it
becomes a tool of enlightened action. This dual gesture—vajra above,
phurba below—creates a vertical axis of power, linking celestial
insight with grounded liberation. It’s a visual mantra of balance: the
sky of wisdom meets the earth of method.
-
What truly sets this representation apart is the radiance of rainbows
emanating from his body. In Vajrayana Buddhism, rainbows are not
decorative—they are signs of realized beings dissolving into light,
transcending the physical form. Jatson Nyingpo’s rainbow aura suggests
his mastery of the rainbow body, a state achieved through profound
realization where the physical body dissolves into pure light at
death. The circle of rainbows enclosing the entire image reinforces
this transcendence, forming a mandala of awakened presence that
invites the viewer into a sacred space beyond duality.
-
Within the sacred precincts of Tashiding Monastery—often called the
“Heart of Sikkim”—this image of Jatson Nyingpo is more than
iconography. It’s a living transmission of his legacy as a vidyadhara,
a bearer of awareness, whose teachings continue to ripple through the
Himalayan spiritual landscape. His posture, attributes, and luminous
aura speak directly to the heart of Vajrayana practice: fierce
compassion, fearless transformation, and the ultimate dissolution into
light.
-
Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0
license.
|
Wall painting of Padma Gyalpo, the Lotus King The
manifestation of Padmasambhava known as Padma Gyalpo, or the Lotus King,
radiates youthful majesty and playful wisdom.
-
This form is the first of Guru Rinpoche’s Eight Manifestations,
representing his birth and early life in the kingdom of Oddiyana. At
Tashiding, Padma Gyalpo is portrayed with a small double drum
(damaru) in his right hand, symbolizing the rhythmic pulse of
creation and dissolution. The damaru’s sound evokes the dance of
emptiness and form, calling forth dakinis and awakening subtle
energies within the practitioner.
-
In his left hand, Padma Gyalpo holds a mirror, a deceptively simple
object that reflects profound truths. The mirror represents the
luminous clarity of mind, the innate awareness that is both empty and
radiant. It invites the viewer to look beyond appearances and
recognize the nature of reality as a reflection—impermanent,
insubstantial, yet full of potential. This pairing of drum and mirror
is a tantric teaching in itself: the dynamic beat of compassionate
action balanced by the stillness of pure awareness.
-
Padma Gyalpo’s red-hued body and royal attire further emphasize his
role as a sovereign of enlightened qualities. Seated in the posture of
royal ease, he embodies confidence, joy, and spontaneous realization.
Unlike wrathful or meditative forms, Padma Gyalpo’s expression is
often serene and smiling, reminding practitioners that the path to
awakening can be infused with grace and delight. His presence at
Tashiding, a monastery revered as the “Heart of Sikkim,” reinforces
the idea that spiritual realization is not confined to austerity—it
can arise through beauty, playfulness, and devotion.
-
In the sacred geometry of the Padmasambhava altar, Padma Gyalpo’s
placement offers a counterpoint to more wrathful or contemplative
figures, creating a mandala of balanced energies. His drum and mirror
are not just ritual implements—they are gateways to the dance of
awareness, inviting pilgrims and practitioners to engage with the
teachings in a way that is both joyful and transformative. At
Tashiding, his image becomes a living transmission of the Lotus King’s
timeless message: that enlightenment is already present, waiting to be
recognized in the mirror of our own mind.
-
Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0
license.
|
Wall painting of Vajrapani (left) and Jatson Nyingpo (right) The side-by-side depiction of Vajrapani and Jatson Nyingpo
creates a powerful tableau of tantric energy and enlightened resolve.
-
Vajrapani, the embodiment of the Buddha’s power, stands with a blue
body, radiating fierce compassion and unshakable strength. His right
hand raised, clutching a vajra, channels the indestructible force of
awakened mind. The Rudra mudra he makes—a gesture of wrathful
protection—signals his role as a guardian of the dharma, ready to
subdue ignorance and negativity with thunderous clarity.
-
Beside him, Jatson Nyingpo, the great terton of the Nyingma tradition,
appears in a posture equally charged with symbolic potency. His right
hand holds a staff topped with three heads, representing the
purification of body, speech, and mind, or the transcendence of the
three poisons—attachment, aversion, and ignorance. This staff is not
merely ornamental; it’s a tantric implement that marks his mastery
over inner and outer obstacles. From his left hand, a rainbow emerges,
a luminous arc that signifies his attainment of the rainbow body, a
state in which the physical form dissolves into light at death,
leaving only traces of hair and nails.
-
The juxtaposition of Vajrapani’s wrathful dynamism and Jatson
Nyingpo’s radiant transcendence creates a visual mandala of power and
realization. Vajrapani anchors the scene with protective force, while
Jatson Nyingpo lifts it into the realm of pure awareness. Their
placement together at Tashiding—a monastery revered as the “Heart of
Sikkim”—is no accident. It reflects the union of guardian energy and
revealed wisdom, a reminder that the path to enlightenment requires
both fierce commitment and luminous insight.
-
Encircled by the sacred architecture and natural beauty of Tashiding,
this depiction becomes more than iconography—it’s a living
transmission. Pilgrims who gaze upon these figures are invited into a
dialogue with their own potential: to wield the vajra of fearless
compassion, to dissolve into the rainbow of awakened mind, and to walk
the tantric path with courage and clarity.
-
Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0
license.
|
Wall painting of Buddha Shakyamuni (left), Padma Gyalpo (center) and
Padmasambhava in yab-yum The triadic representation of Buddha Shakyamuni, Padma Gyalpo,
and Padmasambhava in yab-yum forms a profound visual mandala of
enlightenment.
-
Each figure embodies a distinct facet of the Buddhist path: Shakyamuni
as the historical Buddha and teacher of the Four Noble Truths; Padma
Gyalpo as the youthful, regal emanation of Padmasambhava; and
Padmasambhava in yab-yum as the tantric master in union with wisdom.
Their collective presence at Tashiding is not merely symbolic—it’s a
transmission of the complete spectrum of awakening, from foundational
teachings to esoteric realization.
-
Buddha Shakyamuni, seated in serene meditation, anchors the triad with
his timeless presence. His image evokes the clarity of the sutra path,
the discipline of ethical conduct, and the transformative power of
insight. Flanked by Padma Gyalpo, who holds a damaru and mirror, the
tableau shifts into the realm of spontaneous wisdom and playful
compassion. Padma Gyalpo’s red-hued body and royal ease suggest that
enlightenment can be joyful and immediate, not just austere or
distant. His mirror reflects the luminous nature of mind, while the
drum pulses with the rhythm of emptiness and form.
-
At the tantric apex of the triad stands Padmasambhava in yab-yum,
depicted in intimate union with his consort—often Yeshe Tsogyal. This
form represents the non-dual integration of method and wisdom, the
heart of Vajrayana practice. Their embrace is a visual teaching:
enlightenment arises from the union of compassionate action and
penetrating insight. The yab-yum posture dissolves conceptual
boundaries, inviting practitioners into a state of blissful awareness
beyond duality. In the sacred geometry of the altar, this form
completes the arc from historical to mystical, from outer teaching to
inner realization.
-
Together, these three figures form a living mandala of awakening. At
Tashiding, their presence is not just devotional—it’s initiatory.
Pilgrims who encounter this triad are invited to walk the full path:
to study the teachings of Shakyamuni, to embody the regal spontaneity
of Padma Gyalpo, and to merge into the luminous union of
Padmasambhava. It’s a visual sermon in three voices, each echoing the
same truth: that enlightenment is vast, multifaceted, and already
within reach.
-
Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0
license.
|
Ceiling painting with mandala The mandala painted on the
ceiling unfolds like a celestial map of enlightenment.
-
At its heart sits a central Buddha with a blue body, radiating calm
power and infinite space. This figure likely represents Akshobhya, the
Buddha of the East, whose blue hue symbolizes mirror-like wisdom and
the ability to transform anger into clarity. His placement at the
center of the mandala reflects the still point around which all
spiritual energies revolve—a visual anchor for meditation and inner
balance.
-
Encircling him are four Buddhas, each identical in form but
distinguished by their distinct body colors—white, yellow, red, and
green. These colors correspond to the Five Dhyani Buddhas, each
embodying a specific aspect of enlightened consciousness. The white
Buddha may represent Vairocana, the illuminator of ignorance; the
yellow, Ratnasambhava, who transforms pride into equanimity; the red,
Amitabha, associated with love and compassion; and the green,
Amoghasiddhi, the Buddha of action and accomplishment. Their
symmetrical arrangement around the central figure creates a mandala of
harmony, with each quadrant offering a path to transcendence.
-
The ceiling mandala is more than decorative—it’s a spiritual
architecture designed to guide the mind toward awakening. Its circular
form mirrors the cyclical nature of existence, while the vibrant
colors and precise geometry evoke the balance of inner and outer
worlds. Monks and pilgrims who gaze upward during prayer are reminded
of the vast cosmology of Vajrayana Buddhism, where each Buddha is not
just a deity but a mirror of the practitioner’s own potential.
-
In the sacred atmosphere of Tashiding—often called the “Heart of
Sikkim”—this mandala becomes a living presence. It invites
contemplation, not only of the Buddhas above but of the mandala
within: the luminous center of awareness surrounded by the
transformative energies of wisdom, compassion, and fearless action.
It’s a ceiling that doesn’t just shelter—it awakens.
-
Photograph by Anjan Kumar Kundu, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0
license.
|
Sanctuary of the Twenty-One Taras Nestled beside the main
hall of Tashiding Monastery, the Shrine of the Twenty-One Taras offers a
vibrant and deeply symbolic sanctuary dedicated to the feminine
embodiment of enlightened activity.
-
Each of the Twenty-One Taras represents a unique aspect of compassion,
protection, and wisdom, drawn from the Praise to the Twenty-One
Taras—a revered liturgical text in Tibetan Buddhism. The shrine is
arranged in a harmonious sequence, with each Tara depicted in her
distinct color, posture, and gesture, reflecting her specific
spiritual function, from pacifying fear to bestowing longevity and
magnetizing auspicious conditions.
-
The shrine’s layout is often described as mandala-like, with the
central Tara—typically Green Tara, the swift liberator—anchoring the
space. Surrounding her are the twenty other manifestations, each
seated on lotus thrones and adorned with ritual implements such as
vases, lotuses, swords, and nooses, depending on their iconographic
tradition. The Taras are rendered in vivid hues—white, red, yellow,
blue, and green—corresponding to the four enlightened activities:
pacifying, increasing, overpowering, and wrathful transformation.
Their serene yet dynamic expressions invite practitioners into a
contemplative dialogue with the divine feminine.
-
Locally, the shrine is a site of daily offerings and recitations,
especially the chanting of the Praises to the Twenty-One Taras, which
is believed to invoke swift blessings and protection. Butter lamps
flicker in front of each statue, and the air is rich with the scent of
incense and the murmur of mantras. Pilgrims often circumambulate the
shrine, pausing before each Tara to make personal prayers, reflecting
on the qualities they wish to cultivate or obstacles they seek to
overcome.
-
In the broader spiritual landscape of Tashiding Monastery, this shrine
serves as a gateway to the compassionate heart of Vajrayana Buddhism.
It complements the more wrathful and regal depictions found elsewhere
in the monastery, offering a gentler yet equally potent path to
liberation. The presence of the Twenty-One Taras beside the main hall
underscores the monastery’s commitment to a holistic spiritual
vision—one that honors both the fierce and the nurturing, the
thunderbolt and the lotus.
|
Two chortens Just beyond the main hall of Tashiding
Monastery, nestled along the sacred path that leads toward the old
monastery, stand two striking chortens—silent sentinels of devotion and
spiritual continuity.
-
These structures, though modest in scale compared to the grand chorten
forest further afield, hold a unique place in the monastery’s
architectural and symbolic landscape. Their positioning between the
newer and older sanctuaries suggests a bridge between eras, a passage
through which pilgrims transition from the present into the timeless
sanctity of the past.
-
The first chorten, closer to the main hall, is often adorned with
whitewashed stone and golden spire, its surface etched with sacred
mantras and symbols. It may represent a Chorten of Enlightenment,
dedicated to the realization of the Buddha’s teachings. The second
chorten, slightly farther along the path, carries a more weathered
appearance, its stones softened by moss and time. This one is believed
to be a Chorten of Reconciliation, symbolizing purification and the
resolution of karmic debts. Together, they form a contemplative
corridor, inviting pilgrims to pause, reflect, and prepare for the
deeper mysteries housed in the old monastery.
-
These chortens are not merely architectural features—they are living
vessels of prayer and intention. Devotees often circle them clockwise,
murmuring mantras and spinning prayer wheels nearby. The air around
them is thick with incense and the flutter of prayer flags, creating a
sensory tapestry that heightens the spiritual atmosphere. Their
proximity to both the main and old monastery underscores their role as
threshold guardians, marking the transition from communal worship to
more esoteric contemplation.
-
In the broader context of Tashiding—revered as the “Heart of
Sikkim”—these two chortens embody the monastery’s layered spiritual
heritage. They stand as reminders that enlightenment is not a leap but
a journey, one that passes through stages of purification, insight,
and devotion. As pilgrims move from the vibrant energy of the main
hall toward the quiet sanctum of the old monastery, these chortens
offer a moment of stillness—a chance to align body, speech, and mind
before entering the deeper silence of the sacred.
|
Panorama of the two chorten (left) and the main hall (right) seen
fron south
|
Panorama of the butter lamp house seen from north Beyond the
main hall, nestled along the sacred path that winds through this revered
site in Sikkim, stands the butter lamp house—a quiet sanctuary of
flickering devotion.
-
This modest structure, often overlooked by casual visitors, plays a
vital role in the monastery’s spiritual rhythm. Within its walls, rows
of butter lamps are kept alight, their golden flames dancing in silent
homage to the Buddhas and bodhisattvas. Each lamp represents a prayer,
an offering of light meant to dispel ignorance and illuminate the path
to awakening.
-
The butter lamp house is more than a place to light candles—it’s a
ritual chamber of merit. Devotees bring offerings of clarified butter
(ghee) and oil, pouring them into small metal bowls that are then lit
by monks or pilgrims. The act of lighting a lamp is deeply symbolic in
Vajrayana Buddhism: it signifies the dispelling of darkness, both
literal and metaphorical. In the quietude of this space, the air is
thick with the scent of burning wicks and the murmured recitation of
mantras, creating an atmosphere of contemplative reverence.
-
Architecturally, the butter lamp house is simple yet purposeful. Its
walls are often adorned with sacred inscriptions and thangka
paintings, and the interior is dimly lit, allowing the lamps
themselves to become the primary source of illumination. This
interplay of shadow and flame evokes the tantric principle of
transformation—where even the smallest light can pierce the veil of
delusion. The house may also contain stone tablets engraved with
mantras, linking it to the broader spiritual landscape of Tashiding,
which is rich in sacred carvings and relics.
-
In the context of Tashiding—often called the “Heart of Sikkim”—the
butter lamp house serves as a threshold of devotion, bridging the
communal energy of the main hall with the deeper silence of the old
monastery beyond. It’s a place where pilgrims pause, reflect, and
offer light—not just to the deities, but to their own inner journey.
In the flicker of each flame, one glimpses the timeless dance of
impermanence and the enduring hope for liberation.
|
Panorama of the butter lamp house seen from east
|
Panorama of the ancient monastery Beyond the butter lamp
house, the path leads to a secluded and deeply revered structure often
referred to as the ancient monastery—a sanctum that holds the spiritual
heartbeat of the site.
-
This older temple, nestled among moss-covered stones and prayer flags
faded by time, is believed to be part of the original complex
established in the 17th century by Ngadak Sempa Chenpo, one of the
three lamas who consecrated the first Chogyal of Sikkim. Its weathered
façade and quiet presence evoke a sense of timelessness, as if the
very stones have absorbed centuries of mantra and meditation.
-
Inside, the atmosphere shifts into a realm of deep silence and sacred
resonance. The walls are adorned with ancient thangkas and statues,
many of which are said to have been installed by Pedi Wangmo, a royal
patron who helped expand the monastery. The central shrine often
features Padmasambhava, surrounded by offerings and ritual implements
that speak to the tantric lineage of the Nyingma tradition. Unlike the
more public spaces of the main hall, this chamber feels intimate and
initiatory—reserved for those seeking a deeper communion with the
teachings.
-
Surrounding the ancient monastery are stone tablets engraved with
sacred mantras, particularly the ubiquitous “Om Mani Padme Hum.” These
tablets, crafted by master artisans like Yanchong Lodil, form a
protective ring of prayer around the temple. Nearby, chortens built by
Lhatsun Chenpo rise like spiritual beacons, each one a repository of
relics and blessings. The proximity of these elements creates a
layered spiritual landscape, where architecture, nature, and devotion
converge in quiet harmony.
-
In the broader context of Tashiding—often called the “Heart of
Sikkim”—this ancient monastery serves as a threshold to the mystical.
It’s a place where pilgrims slow their steps, lower their voices, and
enter a space of reflection. The journey from the butter lamp house to
this hidden sanctuary mirrors the inner path of transformation: from
the flicker of aspiration to the stillness of realization.
|
Ritual oven in front of the ancient monastery
|
Chorten area The Chorten area stands as a luminous testament
to centuries of devotion, spiritual mastery, and tantric symbolism.
-
This revered zone contains 41 chortens, each meticulously constructed
and consecrated, forming a constellation of sacred monuments that
honor Rinpoches and Tathagatas—realized beings and Buddhas. The
chortens are not merely architectural features; they are repositories
of relics, blessings, and spiritual power, designed to purify,
protect, and inspire those who encounter them.
-
The chortens are categorized into three profound types: Chortens of
Enlightenment, Chortens of Reconciliation, and Chortens of Great
Miracle. The Chortens of Enlightenment are dedicated to the
realization of the Buddha’s teachings and the attainment of awakening.
They symbolize the culmination of the spiritual path and serve as
beacons for practitioners seeking liberation. The Chortens of
Reconciliation represent purification and karmic resolution, offering
a space for devotees to reflect, repent, and renew their vows.
Meanwhile, the Chortens of Great Miracle commemorate extraordinary
events and manifestations of enlightened activity, often linked to
Padmasambhava and other tantric masters.
-
Each chorten is unique in its design and ornamentation, often adorned
with prayer flags, mantra-inscribed tablets, and ritual offerings. The
area is enveloped in a palpable sense of sanctity, with the scent of
incense drifting through the air and the sound of mantras echoing
softly from nearby halls. Pilgrims circumambulate the chortens in
clockwise motion, engaging in kora—a meditative practice that aligns
body, speech, and mind with the sacred geometry of the site.
-
In the broader spiritual landscape of Tashiding—revered as the “Heart
of Sikkim”—the Chorten area serves as a mandala of merit and mystery.
It bridges the visible and invisible realms, inviting practitioners
into a dialogue with the enlightened energies enshrined within each
stupa. Whether one seeks healing, insight, or simply the grace of
presence, the Chorten area offers a sanctuary where the timeless pulse
of the dharma continues to beat.
|
Large bell inside the Chorten area. Within the sacred
Chorten area, a striking feature draws the eye and ear alike—the big
bell, a monumental presence that resonates with both sound and
symbolism.
-
Cast in bronze and suspended from a sturdy wooden frame, this bell is
more than a ritual instrument; it is a sonic embodiment of the dharma,
designed to awaken the mind and purify the space. Its deep,
reverberating tone echoes across the hillside, mingling with the
chants of pilgrims and the rustle of prayer flags, creating a
soundscape that feels timeless and sacred.
-
The bell is often referred to as a dharma bell, and its placement
among the 41 chortens—categorized as Chortens of Enlightenment,
Reconciliation, and Great Miracle—underscores its role as a spiritual
anchor. When struck, it is believed to dispel negative energies and
summon the blessings of the Buddhas and bodhisattvas enshrined in the
surrounding stupas. The inscriptions etched into its surface, often in
flowing Tibetan script, include mantras such as “Om Mani Padme Hum,”
amplifying its spiritual potency with every ring.
-
Architecturally, the bell stands beneath a canopy of Kashmir cypress
trees, their towering forms adding a sense of solemnity and
protection. Nearby, engraved stone tablets and moss-covered chortens
create a contemplative environment, inviting pilgrims to pause and
reflect. The bell’s presence in this forest-like compound transforms
the area into a mandala of sound and silence, where each toll becomes
a call to mindfulness and devotion.
-
In the broader context of Tashiding—revered as the “Heart of
Sikkim”—the big bell serves as a threshold between worlds. It marks
the transition from the outer rituals of circumambulation to the inner
stillness of realization. Whether heard during the Bumchu festival or
in the quiet hours of dawn, its voice carries the timeless message of
the dharma: that awakening is always within reach, waiting to be heard
in the silence between each ring.
|
Several chorten in the Chorten area The legend of
Thongwa-Rang-Grol is one of the most evocative and spiritually charged
tales associated with Tashiding Monastery, often referred to as the
“Heart of Sikkim.”
-
According to tradition, the three monks who consecrated the first
Chogyal of Sikkim at Yuksam witnessed a miraculous event: a beam of
divine light emanating from the summit of Mount Kanchendzonga, which
then reflected onto a nearby hilltop. This site, bathed in celestial
radiance, was further sanctified by the fragrance of incense and the
ethereal sound of divine music, enveloping the area in a palpable aura
of sacredness.
-
Moved by this revelation, the first Chogyal visited the site and
erected a small chorten, naming it Thongwa-Rang-Grol, which translates
roughly to “Self-Liberation by Sight.” This name encapsulates the
mystical power attributed to the location: that simply beholding the
chorten is enough to purify karmic obscurations and confer spiritual
emancipation. In Vajrayana Buddhism, such places are considered
tertonic treasures, revealed through divine signs and destined to aid
beings in times of spiritual need.
-
The chorten itself is revered as a gateway to liberation, and pilgrims
often approach it with deep reverence, believing that its presence
alone can catalyze inner transformation. It stands among the 41
chortens in the monastery’s sacred precinct, but its legend elevates
it to a unique status—not just a monument, but a living symbol of
grace. The idea that sight alone can liberate is a profound teaching
in tantric Buddhism, where perception and realization are intimately
linked.
-
In the broader spiritual geography of Sikkim, Thongwa-Rang-Grol is
more than folklore—it’s a spiritual beacon, a reminder that the divine
can manifest in light, scent, and sound, and that sacred places are
often revealed through mystical communion. The legend continues to
inspire pilgrims, monks, and seekers who journey to Tashiding not only
to witness its beauty but to experience the silent transmission of
awakening that the chorten promises.
|
Sacred tree trunk in the Chorten area Based on available
sources, the area includes two giant Kashmir cypress trees.
-
These trees stood near the dharma bell and among the 41 chortens
categorized as Chortens of Enlightenment, Reconciliation, and Great
Miracle.
-
One of these trees has since died and only the trunk remains, it is
likely still revered as a living relic, much like the chortens
themselves.
-
In Himalayan Buddhist tradition, natural elements—especially trees
that have stood witness to centuries of prayer and ritual—are often
considered sacred.
-
The remaining trunk symbolizes impermanence, a core Buddhist teaching,
while continuing to serve as a spiritual landmark for pilgrims.
|
Leaving Tashiding Monastery
|
See Also
Source
Location