Nestled in the misty hills of Darjeeling, the Himalayan Mountaineering
Institute (HMI) stands as a beacon of adventure and resilience.
Founded on November 4, 1954, by India’s first Prime Minister, Pandit
Jawaharlal Nehru, the institute was established to honor the historic ascent
of Mount Everest by Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary. Tenzing himself
became HMI’s first Director of Field Training, and his legacy continues to
shape the institute’s ethos. Often referred to as the Mecca of Indian
Mountaineering, HMI has trained thousands of climbers from around the world,
fostering a spirit of exploration and grit.
The institute offers a range of courses—from the Basic Mountaineering Course
(BMC) to advanced expeditions and specialized training in search and rescue,
rock craft, and ice craft. Trainees begin with theoretical lessons at the
Darjeeling campus before heading to the Chaurikhang Base Camp in West Sikkim,
perched at an altitude of 14,600 feet. There, they undergo rigorous field
training, including glacier climbs and high-altitude treks. The curriculum is
designed to instill not just technical skills but also endurance, teamwork,
and mountain ethics.
Beyond training, HMI is also home to a mountaineering museum, showcasing
artifacts from legendary expeditions, including gear used by Everest pioneers.
Visitors can explore exhibits dedicated to Tenzing Norgay, view climbing
equipment from various eras, and learn about the evolution of Himalayan
exploration. The institute shares its grounds with the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan
Zoological Park, adding a unique blend of natural and educational experiences
for tourists and students alike.
What makes HMI truly special is its commitment to inclusivity and innovation.
It offers courses for the visually impaired, underprivileged youth, and even
short-term adventure programs for casual enthusiasts. With its blend of
history, high-altitude training, and breathtaking scenery, the Himalayan
Mountaineering Institute isn’t just a school—it’s a gateway to the peaks and
the spirit of mountaineering itself.
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Entrance to the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
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Photographs by Nomad Tales, shankar s. and Pinakpani distributed under
a CC-BY 2.0 and CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Statue of Tenzing Norgay
Standing tall at the entrance to
the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) in Darjeeling, the bronze
statue of Tenzing Norgay captures a moment of triumph frozen in time.
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Depicted in his iconic summit pose, ice axe raised high, the statue
commemorates his historic ascent of Mount Everest on May 29, 1953,
alongside Sir Edmund Hillary. This sculpture is more than a
tribute—it’s a symbol of courage, perseverance, and the indomitable
spirit of the Sherpa people. Positioned near his cremation site, the
statue serves as a spiritual and emotional anchor for visitors and
aspiring mountaineers alike.
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Tenzing Norgay’s journey to greatness began in humble circumstances.
Born in 1914—either in Nepal or Tibet, depending on differing
accounts—he ran away from home twice, eventually settling in
Darjeeling, where he discovered his calling in mountaineering. Over
the years, he participated in numerous expeditions, including seven
major climbs before his Everest success. His skill, endurance, and
calm under pressure were legendary; during the 1953 expedition, he
famously saved Hillary from a deadly fall into a crevasse using his
ice axe. For his role in the ascent, Tenzing received the George Medal
from Queen Elizabeth II and was celebrated across India and Nepal.
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The statue also marks the beginning of Tenzing’s legacy as an
educator. After Everest, he was appointed the first Director of Field
Training at HMI, where he was tasked with “creating a thousand
Tenzings.” His influence helped shape generations of climbers, and the
institute itself became a hub for mountaineering excellence. The
nearby Everest Museum and Sherpa Hall of Fame further honor his
contributions, though many visitors find the statue and memorial site
to be the most moving tributes.
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Visitors to the institute often pause before the statue, not just to
admire its craftsmanship, but to reflect on the sheer audacity of
Tenzing’s achievements. His story is woven into the very fabric of
Himalayan exploration, and the statue stands as a reminder that
greatness often begins with a single, determined step. Whether you're
a seasoned climber or a curious traveler, the bronze figure of Tenzing
Norgay invites you to dream bigger and climb higher.
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Photograph by Shahnoor Habib Munmun, distributed under a CC-BY 3.0
license.
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Tomb of Tenzing Norgay
At the entrance to the Himalayan
Mountaineering Institute (HMI) in Darjeeling lies a quiet, reverent
space: the tomb of Tenzing Norgay, one of the most iconic figures in
mountaineering history.
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Surrounded by manicured gardens and shaded by Himalayan pines, the
tomb is a simple yet powerful tribute to the man who, alongside Sir
Edmund Hillary, first stood atop Mount Everest on May 29, 1953. The
site is marked by a modest stone memorial and a bronze statue of
Tenzing in his summit pose, ice axe raised high—a gesture that
continues to inspire generations of climbers and visitors.
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Tenzing Norgay passed away on May 9, 1986, in Darjeeling, at the age
of 71. His death marked the end of an era, but his legacy was already
deeply woven into the fabric of Himalayan exploration and Indian
mountaineering. He had served as the Director of Field Training at HMI
from its inception in 1954 until his retirement, shaping the institute
into a world-class center for mountaineering education. His final
resting place at the institute was chosen not only for its symbolic
significance but also for its proximity to the very institution he
helped build and nurture.
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The tomb itself is understated, reflecting the humility and grace that
defined Tenzing’s character. A carved stone bears his name and the
dates of his birth and death, along with a quote that encapsulates his
philosophy: “May you climb from peak to peak.” Nearby, prayer flags
flutter in the breeze, adding a spiritual dimension to the site.
Visitors often leave flowers, small stones, or personal notes, paying
homage to a man who turned the impossible into reality.
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For many, visiting Tenzing’s tomb is more than a historical
detour—it’s a pilgrimage. It offers a moment of reflection on the
courage, endurance, and quiet strength that carried him to the top of
the world. As you stand before his memorial, you’re reminded that
greatness isn’t just about reaching the summit—it’s about lifting
others up along the way.
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Photographs by Shahnoor Habib Munmun, distributed under a CC-BY 3.0
license.
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Entrance to the Institute
The Himalayan Mountaineering
Institute (HMI) in Darjeeling continues to thrive as a hub of
high-altitude adventure and education, offering a dynamic range of
programs that cater to both aspiring mountaineers and casual
thrill-seekers.
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Its flagship offerings include the Basic Mountaineering Course (BMC),
Advanced Mountaineering Course (AMC), and specialized modules in
Search and Rescue, Rock Craft, and Ice Craft. These courses blend
rigorous physical training with theoretical instruction, beginning at
the Darjeeling campus and culminating in field exercises at the
Chaurikhang Base Camp in West Sikkim, perched at 14,600 feet. The
institute also runs short-term adventure courses for tourists and
students, making mountaineering accessible to a wider audience.
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HMI has expanded its reach by offering inclusive programs for the
visually impaired and underprivileged youth, reinforcing its
commitment to democratizing adventure sports. Recent expeditions have
showcased this spirit—such as the 2024 Mount Kilimanjaro climb, which
included a Divyangjan (differently-abled) participant and set records
across land, sea, and air domains. The institute also collaborates
with other premier organizations like the Nehru Institute of
Mountaineering and the Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering, organizing
joint expeditions to peaks like Everest and Kilimanjaro, further
cementing its global reputation.
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Beyond training, HMI remains a vibrant cultural and educational
center. Its mountaineering museum, the oldest in India, continues to
draw visitors with exhibits featuring historic gear, photographs, and
memorabilia from legendary climbers like Tenzing Norgay and Nawang
Gombu. The institute also hosts graduation ceremonies, guest lectures,
and tribute events, such as the annual memorial for Tenzing Norgay
held each May. These gatherings celebrate the legacy of Himalayan
exploration while inspiring new generations to take up the challenge.
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Under the leadership of Group Captain Jai Kishan, HMI has embraced
modern infrastructure and technology, including a sport climbing wall,
obstacle courses, and a Tree Top Theme Park—the first of its kind in
Northeast India. With its blend of tradition, innovation, and
inclusivity, the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute remains not just a
school, but a living monument to the spirit of adventure.
- Photograph by Ahrn21, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Entrance to the Museum
Tucked within the verdant campus of
the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) in Darjeeling, the HMI
Museum is a treasure trove of mountaineering history, Himalayan culture,
and natural heritage.
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Established in 1957, the museum was envisioned as a space to educate,
inspire, and preserve the legacy of Himalayan exploration. It’s
divided into three main sections: Mountaineering History, Mount
Everest Expeditions, and A Panorama of Himalayan Life, each offering a
unique lens into the world of high-altitude adventure and the
communities that call the mountains home.
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The Mountaineering History section showcases the evolution of climbing
techniques and gear, with artifacts ranging from vintage ice axes and
crampons to flags, medals, and monograms from alpine clubs around the
world. A large relief model of the Himalayan range dominates the room,
mapping out prominent peaks, glaciers, and river systems. This section
also honors the pioneers of mountaineering, including Tenzing Norgay
and Major Nandu Jayal, with personal memorabilia and photographs that
trace their journeys from base camp to summit.
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In the Mount Everest section, visitors can explore the dramatic
timeline of mankind’s quest to conquer the world’s highest peak.
Exhibits document the discovery of Peak XV, its naming as Mount
Everest, and the landmark 1953 ascent by Tenzing and Hillary.
Equipment used during that historic climb—including oxygen cylinders,
clothing, and climbing tools—is displayed alongside detailed accounts
of the expedition. This section captures not just the physical
challenge of Everest, but the emotional and cultural significance of
standing atop the world.
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The final section, A Panorama of Himalayan Life, offers a vibrant
glimpse into the art, culture, and biodiversity of the region. From
traditional clothing and religious artifacts to samples of Himalayan
rocks and minerals, the exhibits celebrate the richness of mountain
life. One standout item is a Carl Zeiss telescope gifted by Adolf
Hitler to General Shamsher Jung Bahadur Rana, later donated to HMI—a
curious historical footnote that adds depth to the museum’s eclectic
collection. Whether you're a climber, a history buff, or a curious
traveler, the HMI Museum invites you to explore the soul of the
Himalayas, one exhibit at a time.
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Photograph by Shahnoor Habib Munmun, distributed under a CC-BY 3.0
license.
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Mountains of the World
This large-scale 3D representation of
the “Mountains of the World” is a centerpiece that draws visitors into
the geography and grandeur of global peaks.
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This meticulously crafted model offers a tactile and visual
experience, showcasing the relative heights, shapes, and locations of
iconic mountains—from the towering Mount Everest and Kanchenjunga to
the Alps, Andes, and Rockies. It’s not just a topographical
display—it’s a celebration of Earth’s most majestic elevations.
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The model is designed to give viewers a comparative perspective,
allowing them to see how Everest dwarfs other peaks and how mountain
ranges differ in structure and scale. Visitors can trace the
ridgelines, valleys, and summits with their eyes or fingertips,
gaining a deeper appreciation for the challenges faced by mountaineers
across continents. The inclusion of Darjeeling’s own location in
relation to the Himalayas adds a local touch, grounding the global
scope of the exhibit in the institute’s immediate surroundings.
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Beyond its educational value, the 3D model serves as a symbolic bridge
between cultures and climbing traditions. It reflects HMI’s mission to
foster international mountaineering camaraderie and to inspire
climbers to dream beyond borders. Whether you're a student preparing
for your first ascent or a traveler curious about the world’s great
ranges, the model invites you to explore the peaks not just as
physical challenges, but as cultural and spiritual landmarks.
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Positioned near other historical artifacts and training displays, the
“Mountains of the World” model complements the museum’s narrative of
exploration, resilience, and global connection. It’s a quiet
marvel—unassuming yet profound—that reminds visitors that while each
mountain is unique, the spirit of climbing is universal.
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Photograph by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Long trumpet (Dungchen)
In the high-altitude
monasteries and mountain villages of the Himalayas, one of the most
striking musical instruments is the Dungchen, a long, telescoping
trumpet traditionally used in Tibetan Buddhist rituals.
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Often stretching up to 12 feet in length, the dungchen produces a
deep, resonant drone that echoes across valleys and temple courtyards.
Its sound is not melodic in the Western sense—it’s more like a sonic
invocation, meant to summon spiritual awareness and signal the start
of sacred ceremonies. Monks typically play it in pairs or groups,
creating layered harmonics that feel both ancient and otherworldly.
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The dungchen is crafted from brass or copper, and its design allows it
to collapse into smaller segments for portability—a practical feature
given the rugged terrain of the Himalayas. When fully extended, the
instrument resembles a massive alpine horn, but its cultural role is
far more spiritual than celebratory. It’s often played during pujas,
funerals, and other rites, accompanying chants, cymbals, and drums to
create a powerful auditory atmosphere. The sound is said to represent
the voice of the Buddha or the roar of a dragon, depending on the
tradition.
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Another trumpet-like instrument found in the region is the Ragdung,
which is similar in appearance but may be slightly shorter and more
ornately decorated. These horns are often adorned with makara
heads—mythical sea creatures in Hindu and Buddhist iconography—and
intricate carvings that reflect the sacred nature of their use. In
Nepal, a related instrument called the Karnal is used in ceremonial
processions, especially among the Newar and Gurung communities. The
Karnal has a wide, datura-flower-shaped bell and is typically played
during festivals and deity parades.
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Whether used in Tibetan monasteries or Nepali village rituals, these
trumpets are more than musical tools—they’re spiritual conduits,
designed to bridge the earthly and the divine. Their booming voices
carry prayers across mountain passes and into the heavens, reminding
listeners of the vastness of both the landscape and the sacred. If you
ever hear one echoing through the Himalayas, it’s not just a
sound—it’s a moment of transcendence.
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Photograph by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Telescope gifted by Adolf Hitler (1938)
Inside the Himalayan
Mountaineering Institute (HMI) in Darjeeling, one of the most curious
and historically layered artifacts on display is a 130-mm Zeiss
refractor telescope—a pre-World War II instrument gifted by Adolf Hitler
to Maharaja Juddha Shumsher Jung Bahadur Rana, the Commander-in-Chief of
the Nepalese Army, in 1938.
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Though often mistakenly referred to as Hitler’s personal telescope, it
was actually a diplomatic gift, part of a broader tradition of
ceremonial exchanges between European powers and South Asian royalty.
The telescope eventually made its way to HMI in 1961, when the
Maharaja’s son, General Shamsher Jung Bahadur Rana, donated it to the
institute.
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The telescope is housed in the upper hall of the HMI Museum,
surrounded by mountaineering memorabilia and historical equipment.
It’s mounted on a field tripod with an alt-azimuth setup and features
a long dew cap, barrel weights, and a rack-and-pinion focuser. Though
photography inside the museum is restricted, the telescope remains a
centerpiece of the collection, drawing attention not only for its
craftsmanship but also for its unusual provenance. Visitors often
marvel at the juxtaposition of this European optical marvel with the
Himalayan context in which it now resides.
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Beyond its technical specs, the telescope serves as a symbolic bridge
between astronomy, diplomacy, and mountaineering. It was reportedly
used to view Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world,
offering a literal and metaphorical lens into the Himalayan landscape.
Its presence in the museum underscores HMI’s broader mission—not just
to train climbers, but to preserve and showcase the cultural and
scientific heritage of the region. The telescope’s interpretive plaque
provides historical context, though some details—like the spelling of
the Maharaja’s name—have been noted as inaccurate.
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In a museum filled with ice axes, summit flags, and boots that once
stood atop Everest, the Zeiss telescope stands out as a relic of a
different kind of vision. It invites reflection on the strange
intersections of history: how a gift from a European dictator ended up
in a Himalayan institute founded to honor the triumph of human spirit
and cooperation. Whether you're drawn to its optics or its story, the
telescope remains one of HMI’s most enigmatic treasures.
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Photographs by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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British Everest Expedition in 1953
The 1953 British Everest
Expedition was a landmark moment in mountaineering history, culminating
in the first confirmed ascent of Mount Everest on May 29, 1953.
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Led by Colonel John Hunt, the expedition was meticulously planned and
financed by the Joint Himalayan Committee of the Alpine Club and the
Royal Geographical Society. The team included climbers from Britain,
New Zealand, and Nepal, with Edmund Hillary, a New Zealand beekeeper,
and Tenzing Norgay, a seasoned Sherpa mountaineer, ultimately chosen
for the summit push. Their success was announced just in time for
Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, adding a layer of national pride to
the achievement.
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The expedition was the ninth attempt to conquer Everest and faced
formidable challenges: treacherous icefalls, extreme altitude, and
unpredictable weather. The team established a series of camps up the
mountain, including the crucial South Col staging area, before
launching two summit attempts. The first pair, Tom Bourdillon and
Charles Evans, reached the South Summit but had to turn back due to
oxygen issues. Three days later, Hillary and Tenzing made their
successful ascent, navigating the infamous Hillary Step before
reaching the top at 11:30 a.m. They spent about 15 minutes on the
summit, taking photos and leaving offerings before descending.
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The expedition was notable not only for its success but also for its
scale and organization. It involved 350 porters, 20 Sherpas, and tons
of supplies to support just ten climbers. The team trained in
Snowdonia, Wales, and tested oxygen equipment extensively before
departing for Nepal. Tenzing Norgay, already a veteran of six Everest
attempts, was appointed Sirdar, or lead Sherpa, and played a pivotal
role in both logistics and climbing. His partnership with Hillary was
forged during the expedition and proved to be a perfect blend of
experience, strength, and mutual respect.
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The legacy of the 1953 expedition endures as a symbol of human
determination and international cooperation. It marked the beginning
of Everest’s transformation from an elusive peak to a global icon of
adventure. Hillary and Tenzing became household names, and their
achievement inspired generations of climbers. Today, the story of
their ascent is told in museums, books, and documentaries, but the
bronze statue of Tenzing at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in
Darjeeling remains one of the most poignant tributes to that
extraordinary moment in history.
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Photographs by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Sir Edmund Hillary
Sir Edmund Hillary, a humble beekeeper
from New Zealand, etched his name into history on May 29, 1953, when he
and Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay became the first confirmed
climbers to reach the summit of Mount Everest, the highest point on
Earth.
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Their ascent was part of the 1953 British Everest Expedition, led by
Colonel John Hunt, and it marked the culmination of decades of
attempts to conquer the formidable peak. Hillary’s famous words to
fellow climber George Lowe—“Well, George, we knocked the bastard
off!”—captured the raw triumph of the moment.
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Hillary’s connection to Everest began years earlier, with expeditions
to the Himalayas in 1951 and 1952, where he honed his skills and built
a reputation for strength and determination. His partnership with
Tenzing Norgay was forged during the expedition itself, and together
they tackled the final stretch of the climb, including the treacherous
Hillary Step, a near-vertical rock face just below the summit. Their
achievement was announced to the world on the eve of Queen Elizabeth
II’s coronation, and Hillary was promptly knighted for his role in the
historic ascent.
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But Hillary’s legacy goes far beyond the summit. Deeply moved by the
Sherpa people and their way of life, he founded the Himalayan Trust in
1960, which built schools, hospitals, and infrastructure in remote
regions of Nepal. His humanitarian work earned him honorary
citizenship in Nepal and cemented his status not just as a
mountaineer, but as a compassionate global figure. He later reached
both the South Pole and the North Pole, becoming the first person to
stand at all three extremes of the Earth.
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Throughout his life, Hillary remained modest about his achievements,
often deflecting praise and emphasizing the teamwork and shared effort
behind the Everest climb. His story is one of grit, generosity, and a
deep respect for the mountains and the people who live among them.
Today, his name is synonymous with exploration, and his connection to
Everest continues to inspire adventurers and humanitarians alike.
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Photographs by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Tenzing Norgay Sherpa Mount Everest Expedition in May 1953
On May 29, 1953, Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary
etched their names into history by becoming the first confirmed climbers
to reach the summit of Mount Everest, the highest point on Earth.
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Their ascent was part of the 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition,
led by Colonel John Hunt, and marked the culmination of decades of
attempts to conquer the formidable peak. The expedition was
meticulously planned, involving over 350 porters, 20 Sherpas, and tons
of supplies to support just ten climbers.
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Tenzing Norgay, already a veteran of six previous Everest attempts,
was appointed Sirdar, or lead Sherpa, for the mission. His experience
and endurance were instrumental in navigating the treacherous terrain,
including the Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse Face, and the notorious Hillary
Step—a near-vertical rock face just below the summit. On summit day,
Hillary and Tenzing departed from their high camp and reached the top
at 11:30 a.m., spending about 15 minutes there. Tenzing planted the
flags of Nepal, India, the United Kingdom, and the United Nations,
while Hillary took photographs to document the moment.
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Their achievement was announced to the world on June 2, coinciding
with Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, and was celebrated globally.
Hillary was knighted, and Tenzing received the George Medal, along
with honors from both India and Nepal. The expedition’s success was
attributed to careful planning, improved oxygen systems, and the
climbers’ extraordinary teamwork. Notably, the pair agreed not to
disclose who stepped on the summit first, emphasizing that the climb
was a shared triumph.
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The 1953 ascent transformed Everest from an elusive dream into a
symbol of human possibility. Tenzing Norgay’s role was especially
significant—not just as a climber, but as a representative of the
Sherpa community, whose contributions to Himalayan exploration had
long been underrecognized. His legacy lives on at the Himalayan
Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling, where he served as the first
Director of Field Training, inspiring generations to climb from peak
to peak.
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Photographs by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Tenzig Norgay on the Summit of Mount Everest
Inside the
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI), one of the most evocative
artworks on display is the painting titled "Tenzing Norgay on the Summit
of Mount Everest" by M. Sain.
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This piece captures the defining moment of mountaineering history—May
29, 1953, when Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary became the first
confirmed climbers to reach the summit of Mount Everest. The painting
portrays Tenzing in his iconic pose, standing triumphantly atop the
world, ice axe raised high, with flags of India, Nepal, the United
Kingdom, and the United Nations fluttering from its shaft. It’s a
visual anthem of courage, unity, and achievement.
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M. Sain’s brushwork emphasizes both the grandeur of the Himalayan
landscape and the quiet dignity of Tenzing himself. The artist uses a
palette of icy blues and stark whites to evoke the harshness of
Everest’s summit, while warm tones highlight Tenzing’s figure, drawing
the viewer’s eye to his expression of serene triumph. The composition
is not just celebratory—it’s reverent. It invites viewers to reflect
on the physical and spiritual magnitude of the climb, and the humility
with which Tenzing carried the hopes of nations.
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The painting holds a special place within the HMI Museum, not only for
its artistic merit but for its emotional resonance. Positioned near
exhibits of climbing gear and photographs from the 1953 expedition, it
serves as a visual counterpart to the historical narrative. Visitors
often pause before it, absorbing the symbolism and imagining the thin
air, the biting cold, and the sheer willpower it took to reach that
point. It’s more than a portrait—it’s a moment crystallized in paint.
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What makes this painting particularly poignant is its connection to
the institute itself. Tenzing Norgay was the first Director of Field
Training at HMI, and his legacy permeates every corner of the campus.
M. Sain’s work stands as a tribute not only to the man who conquered
Everest, but to the teacher and mentor who inspired generations to
climb from peak to peak. It’s a reminder that some summits are reached
with an ice axe—and others with a paintbrush.
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Photograph by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Mount Everest Expeditions in 1960-1962
The Mount Everest
expeditions between 1960 and 1962 marked a pivotal shift in the
geopolitical and mountaineering landscape, particularly with the 1960
Chinese ascent via the North Ridge.
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On May 25, 1960, climbers Wang Fuzhou, Gonpo, and Qu Yinhua claimed to
have reached the summit at 4:20 a.m., making it the first successful
ascent from the north slope—a route long considered impassable. The
climb was executed without supplemental oxygen, and the team
reportedly left a statue of Mao Zedong, a national flag, and a note at
the summit. However, the lack of summit photographs and the nighttime
ascent led to skepticism among Western climbers, though later analyses
and corroborations have largely validated the achievement.
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The Chinese expedition was massive, involving 214 members, including
scientists, military personnel, and mountaineers. It was framed as a
national task, tied to China-Nepal border negotiations and national
pride. The climbers endured extreme conditions, including frostbite
and high-altitude exhaustion. Notably, Qu Yinhua lost all ten toes and
a finger to frostbite. The team overcame the notorious Second Step
using a “human ladder,” with Qu climbing barefoot on Liu Lianman’s
shoulders to fix ropes—a feat that has since become legendary in
mountaineering lore.
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In contrast, the 1962 Indian Everest expedition, led by Major John
Dias, was less successful. Despite extensive planning and support, the
team was forced to retreat due to severe weather and logistical
challenges. The expedition did, however, contribute valuable
reconnaissance and experience that would inform India’s triumphant
1965 ascent. The 1962 mission also highlighted the growing interest
and capability of Indian climbers in high-altitude exploration,
setting the stage for future national achievements.
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Together, these expeditions reflect a period of intense ambition and
national symbolism in Himalayan mountaineering. The Chinese ascent in
1960 broke new ground both technically and politically, while the
Indian efforts in 1962 laid the groundwork for future success. These
missions weren’t just about reaching the summit—they were about
staking a presence on the roof of the world.
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Photographs by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Nawang Gombu Sherpa Mount Everest Expedition in 1963 and 1965
Nawang Gombu Sherpa made history with his extraordinary
achievements on Mount Everest in both 1963 and 1965, becoming the first
person in the world to summit Everest twice—a record that stood
unchallenged for 15 years.
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His first ascent came on May 1, 1963, as part of the American Mount
Everest Expedition, where he reached the summit alongside Jim
Whittaker, the first American to do so. This climb followed the
traditional South Col route, and Gombu’s role was pivotal—not just as
a high-altitude Sherpa, but as a skilled mountaineer in his own right.
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Two years later, Gombu joined the 1965 Indian Everest Expedition, led
by Captain M.S. Kohli, which became a landmark in Indian
mountaineering history. On May 20, 1965, Gombu summited Everest again,
this time with A.S. Cheema, making him the seventeenth person ever to
reach the top and the first to do it twice. The Indian expedition was
a massive undertaking, involving over 50 climbers and support staff,
and it successfully placed nine Indian climbers on the summit—a record
at the time. Gombu’s dual success elevated him to legendary status and
earned him prestigious honors, including the Padma Bhushan, Arjuna
Award, and the Hubbard Medal from the National Geographic Society.
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Born in Minzu, Tibet, and later naturalized as an Indian citizen,
Gombu was the nephew of Tenzing Norgay, and his mountaineering lineage
was deeply rooted in Himalayan tradition. He trained in Switzerland
and became a key figure at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
(HMI) in Darjeeling, where he served as Director of Field Training and
later as Honorary Advisor. His contributions extended beyond
climbing—he mentored generations of mountaineers and advocated for the
Sherpa community, earning respect both nationally and internationally.
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Gombu’s legacy is not just about summits—it’s about resilience,
humility, and pioneering spirit. His dual Everest triumphs symbolized
a new era in high-altitude exploration and showcased the indispensable
role of Sherpas in global mountaineering. Today, his name is etched
into the annals of adventure, and his story continues to inspire
climbers who dare to dream beyond the clouds.
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Photographs by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Mount Everest Expedition in 1965
The 1965 Indian Mount
Everest Expedition was a historic triumph that marked India’s first
successful ascent of the world’s highest peak.
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Led by Captain M.S. Kohli, the expedition followed two previous failed
attempts in 1960 and 1962. This third mission was meticulously planned
and executed, involving 21 core climbers, 50 Sherpas, and over 800
porters who carried 25 tons of supplies from the Indo-Nepal border to
Base Camp. The team began their journey in February and reached
Everest’s summit in a series of staggered ascents between May 20 and
May 29, 1965, placing nine climbers on the summit—a world record at
the time.
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The first successful summit was achieved on May 20 by Lt. Col. Avatar
S. Cheema and Nawang Gombu Sherpa, making them the first Indians to
reach the top of Everest. Remarkably, this was Gombu’s second ascent,
having previously summited with the American expedition in 1963,
making him the first person in the world to climb Everest twice. Over
the next nine days, climbers including Sonam Gyatso, Sonam Wangyal,
C.P. Vohra, Ang Kami, H.P.S. Ahluwalia, H.C.S. Rawat, and Phu Dorjee
Sherpa reached the summit in successive waves. The final ascent on May
29, exactly twelve years after Hillary and Tenzing’s historic climb,
saw three climbers stand on the summit together for the first time.
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The expedition was celebrated across India and internationally. Acting
Prime Minister Gulzarilal Nanda welcomed the team upon their return,
and the climbers were honored with Arjuna Awards, Padma Bhushan, and
Padma Shri distinctions. A full-length film was released, and the
story was serialized in newspapers and magazines. The success was
hailed by Indira Gandhi as one of India’s six major achievements
post-independence, and the team was invited to civic receptions across
the country and abroad.
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Beyond the accolades, the 1965 expedition symbolized a turning point
in Indian mountaineering. It demonstrated the power of teamwork,
resilience, and national pride, and inspired a surge in interest in
adventure sports. The legacy of this climb continues to resonate
through institutions like the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute,
where many of the climbers trained and later taught. It wasn’t just a
conquest of a peak—it was a moment that elevated the spirit of a
nation.
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Photographs by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Dorjee Lhatoo Expedition to Mount Everest in 1984
The Dorjee
Lhatoo Expedition to Mount Everest in 1984 was part of India’s historic
push to place its first woman on the summit of the world’s highest peak.
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Led by Colonel Darshan Kumar Khullar, the expedition was a
mixed-gender team of 20 climbers, including Dorjee Lhatoo, a seasoned
Sherpa mountaineer born in Tibet and raised in Darjeeling. The team
faced immense challenges, including avalanches, extreme weather, and
tragic losses, but ultimately succeeded in its mission. On May 23,
1984, Bachendri Pal became the first Indian woman to summit Everest,
accompanied by Dorjee Lhatoo, Sonam Palzor, and Ang Dorjee Sherpa.
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Dorjee Lhatoo played a pivotal role in the expedition’s success. Known
for his technical expertise and calm demeanor, he was instrumental in
route fixing and high-altitude logistics. Alongside fellow climbers,
he helped establish camps and secure the treacherous Lhotse Face, a
critical section of the climb. Despite setbacks—including the deaths
of two team members early in the expedition—Lhatoo’s leadership and
resilience helped stabilize morale and keep the team focused on their
goal.
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The summit push was a dramatic affair. The team battled fierce winds
and sub-zero temperatures, with oxygen equipment failures threatening
to derail the ascent. Yet, Dorjee Lhatoo and his companions pressed
on, reaching the summit at 1:07 p.m. IST. Their achievement was not
only a personal triumph but a national milestone, celebrated across
India. The expedition also marked Ang Dorjee’s second ascent of
Everest without supplemental oxygen, a rare and remarkable feat.
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Today, the 1984 expedition is remembered as a turning point in Indian
mountaineering. It showcased the strength of mixed-gender teams, the
importance of Sherpa expertise, and the enduring spirit of climbers
like Dorjee Lhatoo. His contributions continue to inspire new
generations of adventurers, and his legacy is honored at institutions
like the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, where his story is woven
into the fabric of Himalayan exploration.
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Photograph by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Shri Nima Norbu Expedition to Mount Everest in 1992 and 1993
The Shri Nima Norbu Expeditions to Mount Everest in 1992 and 1993
were landmark missions that showcased India's growing prowess in
high-altitude mountaineering.
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Named after Nima Norbu, a revered figure in Indian climbing circles
and a technical adviser to the Indo-Nepalese women's team, these
expeditions were organized under the auspices of the Indian
Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). The 1992 mission laid the groundwork,
while the 1993 expedition achieved a historic milestone by placing
four Indian women climbers on the summit of Everest—an extraordinary
feat at the time.
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The 1993 summit team included Radha Devi, Deepa Sharma, Suman Kutiyal,
and Savita Martolia, who reached the top on May 16, 1993, accompanied
by technical advisers Rajiv Sharma and Nima Norbu. Their ascent
followed the classic southeast ridge route, pioneered by Hillary and
Tenzing in 1953. The team was part of a 19-member Indo-Nepalese
women's expedition led by Bachendri Pal, the first Indian woman to
summit Everest. This mission was not only a triumph of physical
endurance but also a powerful statement of gender representation in
extreme adventure sports.
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Nima Norbu played a pivotal role in both expeditions, offering
technical guidance and logistical support. His contributions were
instrumental in ensuring the safety and success of the climbers,
particularly in navigating the treacherous Khumbu Icefall and the
high-altitude camps. The expeditions also emphasized teamwork between
Indian and Nepalese climbers, with Sherpas like Nga Temba, Nima
Dorjee, and Lopsang Sangpu providing critical support during the
summit push.
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These missions helped cement India’s reputation in the global
mountaineering community and inspired a new generation of climbers,
especially women. The Shri Nima Norbu Expeditions are remembered not
just for their summit success, but for their spirit of collaboration,
resilience, and trailblazing leadership.
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Photographs by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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HMI Mount Everest Expedition in 2003
In 2003, the Himalayan
Mountaineering Institute (HMI) launched a landmark expedition to Mount
Everest’s North Face, commemorating the 50th anniversary of the first
successful ascent by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.
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Led by Colonel Vijay Singh, then Principal of HMI, the 18-member team
departed from Darjeeling in late March with the goal of summiting
Everest via the North-East Ridge route in Tibet—a technically
demanding path less frequented than the southern approach. The
expedition was flagged off by Nawang Gombu, the first person to summit
Everest twice, adding a layer of legacy and reverence to the mission.
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The team faced formidable challenges, including navigating the Khumbu
Icefall, ascending the Lhotse Face, and establishing high-altitude
camps along the treacherous ridge. Their summit attempt was timed to
coincide with May 29, the exact date of the original 1953 ascent,
aiming to honor the golden jubilee with a symbolic climb. Despite
harsh conditions and the inherent risks of high-altitude
mountaineering, two climbers from the HMI team successfully reached
the summit, marking a proud moment for the institute and reinforcing
its reputation as a cradle of Himalayan excellence.
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This expedition was not just about reaching the top—it was a revival
of HMI’s pioneering spirit. The North Face route, historically
associated with the mysterious disappearance of George Mallory and
Andrew Irvine in 1924, added a layer of mystique and challenge to the
climb. The team’s success demonstrated the effectiveness of HMI’s
training programs and the resilience of its climbers, many of whom
were instructors and seasoned mountaineers.
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The 2003 Everest expedition remains a defining chapter in HMI’s
history. It showcased the institute’s commitment to honoring its roots
while pushing the boundaries of adventure. With national leaders like
President A.P.J. Abdul Kalam and Prime Minister A.B. Vajpayee
extending their felicitations, the climb became a symbol of India’s
growing stature in global mountaineering. Today, it stands as a
testament to teamwork, technical skill, and the enduring legacy of
Tenzing Norgay’s vision.
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Photographs by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Gp Capt Jai Kishan Everest Skydive in 2009
In October 2009,
Gp Capt Jai Kishan, a Parachute Jump Instructor from the Indian Air
Force, etched his name into the annals of extreme adventure by becoming
the first Indian to skydive over Mount Everest.
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The feat was part of the Everest Skydive 2009 event, organized by
Explore Himalaya, and involved a series of high-altitude jumps from
aircraft and helicopters in the Everest region. Jai Kishan’s solo jump
from an altitude of 27,500 feet—just shy of Everest’s summit—was a
daring display of skill, endurance, and national pride. He unfurled
the Indian tricolor mid-air, soaring past the world’s highest peak in
freezing temperatures of -28°C.
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Before the jump, Jai Kishan underwent an 11-day acclimatization trek
to Everest Base Camp, preparing his body for the thin air and extreme
conditions. His first trial jump on October 16 was from 25,000 feet,
followed by the record-setting skydive on October 17, alongside world
skydiving champion Wendy Smith and American instructor Tom Noonan. The
team used a Pilatus Porter aircraft and later a Fishtail Air AS350 B3
helicopter to reach the drop zones, including Syangboche (12,350 ft)
and Gorak Shep (17,192 ft)—the latter being the highest skydiving
landing zone ever recorded at the time.
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The jump was fraught with danger: strong jet streams, jagged peaks,
and open crevasses posed serious risks. Jai Kishan’s parachute
deployment had to be precise, and his descent carefully controlled to
avoid drifting into hazardous terrain. Despite these challenges, he
executed the jump flawlessly, landing safely and earning a world
record for the highest skydive landing near Everest. The mission was
self-financed, with Jai Kishan pledging his provident fund and taking
personal loans to make his dream a reality—a testament to his passion
and perseverance.
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For Jai Kishan, the Everest Skydive wasn’t just an adventure—it was a
deeply personal milestone. He carried photographs of his late parents
during the jump, honoring their encouragement and support. His
achievement inspired a wave of interest in high-altitude skydiving and
showcased India’s growing presence in extreme sports. Today, as
Principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Jai Kishan
continues to champion adventure, training new generations to reach for
the skies—sometimes quite literally.
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Photographs by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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HMI Mount Everest Expedition in May 2012
In May 2012, the
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) launched a bold expedition to
Mount Everest, reaffirming its legacy as one of India’s premier
adventure institutions.
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The team, composed of seasoned instructors and elite trainees,
followed the classic southeast ridge route from Nepal, navigating the
treacherous Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse Face, and the notorious Hillary
Step. Their summit push was timed to coincide with a narrow weather
window, part of a season marked by overcrowding and unpredictable
conditions. Despite these challenges, the HMI climbers demonstrated
exceptional skill and discipline, reaching the summit and returning
safely.
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The 2012 Everest season was one of the most congested in history, with
547 climbers reaching the summit and 11 fatalities reported—many due
to delays and exhaustion near the peak. The HMI team’s success was a
testament to their rigorous training and logistical planning. They
acclimatized at high-altitude camps, coordinated oxygen usage
meticulously, and maintained strong communication throughout the
climb. Their ascent was not just a physical achievement but a symbolic
one, showcasing India’s growing presence in global mountaineering.
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Led by experienced instructors and supported by Sherpa guides, the
expedition also served as a training ground for future leaders in
adventure sports. Climbers were selected based on merit and endurance,
and the mission emphasized teamwork, mountain ethics, and
environmental responsibility. The team carried the Indian tricolor to
the summit, a moment of national pride that echoed the legacy of
Tenzing Norgay, HMI’s first Director of Field Training.
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Back at the institute in Darjeeling, the successful summit was
celebrated with ceremonies and media coverage, inspiring a new wave of
climbers. The 2012 expedition reinforced HMI’s role not just as a
school, but as a launchpad for Himalayan excellence. It proved that
with preparation, resilience, and respect for the mountain, even the
world’s highest peak can be within reach. Want to explore how this
expedition compares to others in HMI’s history? I’d be happy to dive
deeper.
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Photograph by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Indian Mission to Antarctica 2021
In 2021, India launched
its 40th and 41st scientific expeditions to Antarctica, marking four
decades of sustained research and exploration on the southernmost
continent.
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The 40th expedition departed from Goa on January 5, 2021, aboard the
ice-class vessel MV Vasiliy Golovnin, carrying 43 members. After a
month-long journey, the ship reached Antarctica, where it dropped off
a team of 40 scientists and support staff to continue research and
maintain operations at India’s two active research stations—Maitri and
Bharati.
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The expedition focused on a range of scientific objectives, including
climate change studies, geological surveys, ocean observations, and
environmental monitoring. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the mission
adopted stringent safety protocols, including 14-day quarantines,
RT-PCR testing, and sanitization of cargo to ensure Antarctica
remained virus-free. The team also replenished essential supplies like
food, fuel, and equipment, and facilitated the return of the winter
crew from the previous expedition.
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Later in the year, India launched its 41st Antarctic expedition, with
the first batch of 23 scientists arriving at the Maitri station in
November. This mission included two major research programs: a
geological exploration of the Amery Ice Shelf at Bharati station to
study India’s ancient geological links with Antarctica, and a
500-meter ice core drilling project near Maitri, aimed at
reconstructing climate data from the past 10,000 years. These efforts
were conducted in collaboration with the British Antarctic Survey and
the Norwegian Polar Institute.
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The 41st expedition was led by Dr. Shailendra Saini, with Huidrom
Nageshwar Singh heading Maitri station and Anoop Kalayil Soman leading
Bharati station. The crew underwent rigorous training in snow and ice
survival at ITBP Auli and medical screening at AIIMS Delhi. By early
2022, the team was expected to return to Cape Town, leaving behind a
48-member winter team to continue operations. These missions
reaffirmed India’s commitment to polar research and its role in global
climate science.
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Photograph by Sumitsurai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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