The Memorial Chorten in Thimphu is one of Bhutan’s most iconic religious
landmarks, built in 1974 to honor the memory of the third Druk Gyalpo, King
Jigme Dorji Wangchuck.
Unlike traditional stupas that enshrine relics, this chorten was designed as a
symbolic representation of the mind of the Buddha, reflecting the king’s
vision for peace and spiritual prosperity. Its construction was initiated by
the king’s mother, Queen Phuntsho Choden, and consecrated by Dudjom Jigdral
Yeshe Dorje, a revered figure in the Nyingma school of Tibetan Buddhism.
Architecturally, the chorten is a stunning example of Tibetan-style design,
featuring a whitewashed structure crowned with a golden spire and richly
decorated annexes facing the cardinal directions. Inside, the chorten houses
elaborate mandalas, statues, and tantric imagery, including depictions of
wrathful deities in vivid Yab-Yum poses—symbolizing the union of wisdom and
compassion. The ground floor is dedicated to the teachings of Vajrakilaya,
while the upper levels explore the esoteric doctrines of the Drukpa Kagyu and
Nyingma traditions.
Spiritually, the Memorial Chorten serves as a daily sanctuary for Thimphu’s
residents. Elderly devotees gather each morning to circumambulate the stupa,
spin large red prayer wheels, and chant mantras in pursuit of merit and
blessings. The chorten’s serene garden, fluttering prayer flags, and rhythmic
sounds of devotion create a tranquil atmosphere that contrasts with the bustle
of the surrounding city. It is also a focal point during religious festivals,
such as the Monlam Prayer Festival, where the Je Khenpo offers blessings to
the assembled faithful.
More than a monument, the Memorial Chorten is a living embodiment of Bhutan’s
spiritual ethos. It bridges the realms of devotion, memory, and national
identity, reminding visitors of the country’s deep-rooted commitment to
Vajrayana Buddhism and the compassionate leadership of its third king. Whether
approached as a place of worship or cultural reflection, the chorten remains a
luminous symbol of Bhutanese reverence and resilience.
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Commemorative plaque
«National Memorial Chhorteh - Built in
The Memory of His Majesty the Third Druk Gyalpo Jigme Dorji Wangchuck
(1928-1972) By Her Majesty Gyalyum Ashi Phuntsho Choden Wangchuck in
1974»
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South entrance gate
The entrance gate to a temple or
monastery is far more than a physical threshold—it marks the transition
from the mundane to the sacred. This symbolic liminality is deeply
rooted in Buddhist architecture, where gates often represent
purification and readiness to engage with higher truths.
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Passing through the gate is an act of spiritual intention, a moment
where the practitioner leaves behind worldly distractions and enters a
space dedicated to awakening, compassion, and wisdom. The gate is not
merely decorative; it is a ritual boundary that prepares the mind for
reverence and introspection.
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At the Memorial Chorten in Thimphu, this symbolism is amplified by the
presence of three slate sculptures mounted above the upper beam of the
entrance gate. These figures—Avalokitesvara, Manjusri, and
Vajrapani—are not random adornments but carefully chosen bodhisattvas
who embody the core virtues of Vajrayana practice. Avalokitesvara, the
embodiment of compassion, reminds visitors of the need for empathy and
loving-kindness. Manjusri, the symbol of transcendent knowledge,
represents the clarity and insight required to cut through ignorance.
Vajrapani, the guardian of power, stands for the strength and
determination needed to overcome inner obstacles and protect the
Dharma.
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Together, these three bodhisattvas form a spiritual triad that guards
the temple and blesses all who enter. Their placement above the gate
is deliberate: they watch over the threshold, offering protection and
guidance to those who seek enlightenment. This arrangement also
reflects the Vajrayana emphasis on integrating compassion, wisdom, and
power into one’s path. The gate thus becomes a portal not only into
the physical structure of the chorten but into the deeper dimensions
of Buddhist practice.
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In the context of the Memorial Chorten, which was built to represent
the mind of the Buddha, the entrance gate serves as a metaphorical
opening into enlightened awareness. The act of walking through it is
akin to stepping into the Buddha’s consciousness—a space where
teachings, rituals, and sacred art converge to inspire transformation.
The gate, flanked by prayer wheels and surrounded by a serene garden,
sets the tone for the spiritual journey that unfolds within. It is a
quiet but powerful invitation to leave behind the ordinary and enter
the extraordinary.
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Memorial Chorten seen from the south gate
A stupa—or
chorten in Tibetan—is a sacred architectural embodiment of the
Buddha’s enlightened mind. Its structure is meticulously designed to
reflect the path to enlightenment, with each part symbolizing a stage of
spiritual development and a corresponding element of nature.
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The base of the stupa, typically square, represents earth and the
foundation of moral discipline. This is followed by a rounded dome
symbolizing water, which stands for purity and the vastness of the
Buddha’s compassion. Rising above is the harmika, a square
platform that signifies fire and the transformative power of wisdom.
Above the harmika are thirteen tapering rings, representing the
ten bhumis (levels of bodhisattva realization) and the three
higher Vajrayana paths, culminating in the attainment of Buddhahood.
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At the very top, the parasol or umbrella symbolizes air, offering
protection from spiritual defilements, while the sun and moon discs
represent space and the union of wisdom and method. The final jewel at
the apex is the embodiment of enlightenment itself—a radiant drop of
pure awareness. Together, these elements form a vertical axis that
mirrors the Buddha seated in meditation: the base as his throne, the
dome as his body, the harmika as his head, and the spire as his
crown. This sacred geometry is not merely symbolic—it is believed to
generate spiritual energy and blessings for all who encounter it.
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The Memorial Chorten in Thimphu exemplifies this symbolism with
striking clarity. Its whitewashed base and flared vase-like dome
reflect the mind of the Buddha, as envisioned by Bhutan’s third king,
Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. Unlike traditional stupas that enshrine relics,
this chorten is a symbolic offering, housing intricate mandalas,
tantric deities, and sacred texts across its three floors. The ground
level is dedicated to Vajrakilaya, a wrathful deity who removes
obstacles; the second floor honors the Drukpa Kagyu lineage, and the
top floor reveals the esoteric teachings of Lama Gongdu from the
Nyingma tradition. These layers mirror the inner journey of
purification, realization, and union with the absolute.
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Circumambulating the Memorial Chorten is a daily ritual for many
Bhutanese, who spin prayer wheels and chant mantras as they walk
clockwise around the structure. This act is not just devotional—it is
a meditative practice that aligns the practitioner with the stupa’s
spiritual energy. The chorten’s design, from its protective
bodhisattvas at the gate to its jewel-tipped spire, invites visitors
to engage with the sacred architecture as a living mandala—a map of
the cosmos and the enlightened mind. In this way, the Memorial Chorten
is not only a monument to a beloved king, but a luminous gateway to
awakening.
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Panorama of the south side of the garden
The Memorial
Chorten is located in the middle of a garden. On the left side, we can
see the prayer wheels. In the center is the chorten.
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Large prayer wheels on the west side
Large prayer wheels are
sacred instruments that embody the dynamic transmission of spiritual
blessings.
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These cylindrical wheels, often inscribed with the mantra
Om Mani Padme Hum, are believed to release the power of the
prayers contained within them each time they are spun. The act of
turning the wheel is considered equivalent to orally reciting the
mantras thousands—or even millions—of times, making it a potent method
for accumulating merit, purifying negative karma, and spreading
compassion and wisdom throughout the universe.
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Symbolically, the rotation of a prayer wheel mirrors the Wheel of
Dharma, representing the Buddha’s teachings in motion. It also
reflects the cycle of samsara—birth, death, and rebirth—and the
practitioner’s aspiration to transcend it. The clockwise spin aligns
with the sun’s path across the sky, reinforcing the cosmic harmony
between spiritual practice and natural rhythms. Large prayer wheels,
often mounted in temple courtyards or along pilgrimage paths, invite
communal participation, allowing even those unable to read or chant to
engage in meaningful spiritual activity.
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At the Memorial Chorten in Thimphu, these large red prayer wheels are
a central feature of daily devotion. Positioned just inside the
entrance gate, they are spun by elderly devotees and pilgrims who
circumambulate the stupa in quiet reverence. The wheels here are not
merely decorative—they are deeply integrated into the spiritual
architecture of the chorten, which itself symbolizes the enlightened
mind of the Buddha. Spinning these wheels while walking clockwise
around the chorten is a meditative act that aligns body, speech, and
mind with the sacred energy of the site.
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The presence of large prayer wheels at the Memorial Chorten reinforces
Bhutan’s unique blend of ritual, symbolism, and accessibility. They
serve as a bridge between esoteric teachings and everyday devotion,
allowing practitioners to engage with profound spiritual principles
through simple, tactile action. In this way, the wheels become not
just tools of prayer, but living mandalas—spinning vessels of
compassion that radiate blessings to all sentient beings.
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Memorial Chorten seen from the southwest
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West door of the Memorial Chorten
Above the western entrance
stands the figure of Virupaksa, the Heavenly King of the West.
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As one of the Four Guardian Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Virupaksa is
entrusted with overseeing the western direction and is associated with
the power of clear vision and spiritual insight. His presence above
the gate is both protective and symbolic, reminding pilgrims that the
path to enlightenment requires discernment and awareness of hidden
truths.
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Virupaksa is traditionally depicted holding a serpent or a stupa,
symbols of wisdom and spiritual authority. His gaze is penetrating,
and his stance firm, embodying the qualities of watchfulness and inner
clarity. In Bhutanese artistic tradition, guardian figures like
Virupaksa are rendered with expressive detail—his robes may ripple
with carved motion, and his crown gleams with celestial motifs. The
western gate, often touched by the golden hues of sunset, becomes a
portal where pilgrims pause to reflect on the deeper layers of their
spiritual journey.
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The statue’s placement above the western door is aligned with the
sacred geometry of the chorten, where each cardinal direction is
guarded by a celestial king. Virupaksa’s role is especially resonant
in the context of the Memorial Chorten, which is designed as a
representation of the enlightened mind. His watchful presence ensures
that the teachings housed within are protected from distortion and
that those who enter are spiritually prepared.
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Together with Dhrtarastra in the east, Virudhaka in the south, and
Vaisravana in the north, Virupaksa completes the protective mandala
that surrounds the chorten. His western post is a reminder that
clarity and vigilance are essential companions on the path of
devotion. For Bhutanese pilgrims, passing beneath his gaze is a moment
of quiet affirmation—a step into sacred space under the guardianship
of divine wisdom.
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Butter lamp house
The butter lamp house is a sacred space
where light offerings are made to dispel ignorance and cultivate wisdom.
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Butter lamps—traditionally fueled by clarified yak butter or
ghee—symbolize the illumination of the mind and the path to
enlightenment. Lighting these lamps is considered a deeply meritorious
act, representing the practitioner's aspiration to awaken from the
darkness of delusion. The flickering flame is not merely physical
light; it is a metaphor for the clarity of insight and the
compassionate wisdom of the Buddha.
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Spiritually, the butter lamp offering is a ritual of devotion and
purification. Each lamp is lit with intention—whether for healing,
protection, remembrance, or the benefit of all sentient beings. The
act of lighting a lamp is often accompanied by prayers or mantras,
transforming a simple gesture into a profound spiritual practice. In
Vajrayana tradition, this offering is also linked to the concept of
karma, where the light becomes a vehicle for accumulating merit and
removing obstacles on the path to liberation.
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At the Memorial Chorten in Thimphu, the butter lamp house is a long,
dedicated room filled with rows of burning lamps, each radiating
warmth and spiritual energy. Devotees pay a small fee to light a lamp,
often in memory of loved ones or as part of their daily practice. The
room itself is suffused with a quiet reverence, its heat and glow
creating a meditative atmosphere. The butter lamp house complements
the chorten’s role as a living symbol of the Buddha’s mind,
reinforcing the themes of clarity, compassion, and transformation.
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This sacred space within the Memorial Chorten is more than a ritual
chamber—it is a spiritual hearth where the community gathers to
connect with the divine. Elderly Bhutanese often spend hours here,
lighting lamps, chanting, and circumambulating the stupa. On
auspicious days, the butter lamp house becomes a focal point for
ceremonies and blessings, drawing people together in shared devotion.
In this way, the butter lamp house serves as both a personal sanctuary
and a communal beacon, illuminating the spiritual heart of Thimphu.
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Heap of slate slabs with mantras and Avalokiteshvara
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Annex pavilion, north of the Memorial Chorten
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Ritual oven
The ritual oven—often a stone or metal hearth
used for burning incense and aromatic woods—is a sacred vessel for
transformation.
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Positioned outside temples and monasteries, it serves as a bridge
between the material and spiritual realms. The fragrant smoke rising
from the oven is believed to carry prayers, offerings, and intentions
to the enlightened beings, purifying the environment and invoking
blessings. This act of burning is not merely symbolic; it is a ritual
of surrender, where the practitioner offers the essence of the five
senses—especially smell—as a gesture of devotion and spiritual
aspiration.
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The materials burned in these ovens—such as sandalwood, juniper, and
other sacred herbs—are chosen for their spiritual potency and symbolic
resonance. Sandalwood, for instance, represents clarity and calmness,
while juniper is associated with protection and purification. As the
smoke curls skyward, it is seen as a visual metaphor for the
dissolution of ego and the ascent toward enlightenment. The ritual
oven thus becomes a dynamic mandala of transformation, where the raw
elements of nature are transmuted into sacred offerings through fire,
one of the five great elements in Buddhist cosmology.
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At the Memorial Chorten in Thimphu, the ritual oven holds particular
significance. Located near the entrance, it is often the first point
of engagement for devotees. Before circumambulating the chorten or
spinning the prayer wheels, many Bhutanese light aromatic woods and
incense in the oven, offering prayers for health, peace, and spiritual
progress. The oven’s placement outside the chorten reflects the
Vajrayana emphasis on purification before entering sacred
space—cleansing the mind and spirit to prepare for deeper engagement
with the teachings housed within.
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Spiritually, the ritual oven at the Memorial Chorten is a communal
hearth of devotion. It draws people together in shared reverence, its
flames flickering with the hopes and intentions of countless
practitioners. On auspicious days and during festivals, the oven
becomes a focal point of ritual activity, with monks and laypeople
alike participating in incense offerings. In this way, the oven is not
just a functional object—it is a living altar, a place where the
visible and invisible worlds meet in the dance of smoke, fire, and
prayer.
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Entering the Memorial Chorten through the north door
Above
the northern entrance stands the figure of Vaisravana, the Heavenly King
of the North.
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As one of the Four Guardian Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Vaisravana is
revered as the protector of wealth, prosperity, and spiritual
abundance. His placement above the northern gate is deliberate and
symbolic, anchoring the chorten’s protective energy and reminding
visitors of the divine forces that safeguard the Dharma from all
directions.
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Vaisravana is typically depicted wearing ornate armor and a crown,
holding a mongoose that spits jewels, a symbol of generosity and the
subjugation of greed. His expression is resolute, his posture firm,
embodying the balance between material stewardship and spiritual
vigilance. In Bhutanese iconography, his statue is richly detailed,
with flowing robes and a gaze that seems to scan the horizon. The
northern gate, often bathed in the cool light of late afternoon,
becomes a threshold where pilgrims pause to reflect on the blessings
of both worldly and spiritual wealth.
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The presence of Vaisravana above this gate is especially meaningful in
Bhutanese tradition, where prosperity is not measured solely in
material terms but in harmony, compassion, and national happiness. His
role as a guardian of abundance aligns with Bhutan’s values, making
his statue not just a protective figure but a spiritual reminder of
ethical wealth. Pilgrims passing beneath him often offer prayers for
stability, generosity, and the wisdom to use resources for the greater
good.
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Together with the other Guardian Kings—Dhrtarastra in the east,
Virudhaka in the south, and Virupaksa in the west—Vaisravana completes
the celestial perimeter of the Memorial Chorten. His northern post is
a vital part of the monument’s spiritual architecture, ensuring that
the sacred space remains balanced and protected. For devotees and
visitors alike, his statue is a silent sentinel, watching over the
spiritual heart of Thimphu with unwavering grace.
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Interior of the Memorial Chorten
The interior of the
Memorial Chorten in Thimphu is a vivid embodiment of Vajrayana Buddhist
cosmology and devotion.
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Richly carved annexes face the four cardinal directions, each housing
intricate mandalas, statues of deities, and a shrine honoring Bhutan’s
third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. These annexes serve not only as
architectural embellishments but also as symbolic gateways into the
sacred teachings preserved within the chorten. The eastern shrine on
the ground floor features an image of the Buddha, anchoring the space
in enlightened presence.
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The ground floor is consecrated to the teachings of
Vajrakilaya, a wrathful deity associated with removing obstacles and
purifying negativities. Four shrines display different representations
of the king, blending royal reverence with tantric symbolism.
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From here, a staircase ascends through two additional levels,
each with four shrines. Behind these, a towering wooden sculpture
spans all three floors, depicting fierce protective deities in dynamic
poses. These wrathful figures are not meant to intimidate but to
symbolize the fierce compassion that protects practitioners from
spiritual harm.
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The second floor is devoted to the Drukpa Lineage of the Kagyu
school, focusing on subduing eight classes of malevolent spirits.
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The uppermost floor is dedicated to Lama Gongdu, a cycle of
teachings revealed by tertons—treasure revealers—who uncovered
hidden texts left by Padmasambhava. These teachings, rediscovered
across the 12th, 14th, and 19th centuries, form the esoteric core of
the Nyingmapa sect. This top floor is adorned with paintings of
Nyingma deities and visionary scenes from the bardo, the
intermediate state between death and rebirth, offering a visual guide
to the soul’s journey.
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Crowning the chorten is a gallery that encircles the structure,
offering panoramic views of Thimphu. This elevated walkway is more
than a scenic overlook—it represents the culmination of spiritual
ascent. After passing through layers of tantric teachings and symbolic
guardians, the practitioner emerges into open space, where
contemplation and clarity meet. The gallery invites reflection not
only on the city below but on the inner journey traced through the
chorten’s sacred architecture.
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Photograph by Bernard Gagnon, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Dakini holding a bumpa vase
one of the most evocative and
spiritually charged images is that of a dakini holding a bumpa vase.
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Dakinis, in Vajrayana Buddhism, are female embodiments of enlightened
energy—often fierce, ecstatic, and transformative. They are considered
sky dancers, moving freely through the realms of wisdom and emptiness.
The bumpa vase, which she cradles or raises, is a ritual vessel
symbolizing the source of spiritual abundance and purification.
Together, the dakini and the vase form a potent icon of empowerment
and blessing.
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The bumpa vase itself is traditionally used in consecration rituals,
filled with sacred substances like saffron water, relics, or medicinal
herbs. In the hands of a dakini, it becomes more than a ceremonial
object—it represents the womb of creation, the flow of wisdom, and the
nectar of immortality. Her gesture may be one of offering, pouring, or
guarding the vase, each conveying a different nuance of spiritual
transmission. At the Memorial Chorten, this imagery is not just
decorative—it’s a visual mantra, inviting practitioners to contemplate
the union of feminine wisdom and sacred action.
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This particular depiction at the Memorial Chorten is deeply rooted in
the Nyingma tradition, which emphasizes hidden teachings
(terma) and visionary experiences. The chorten itself is a
layered mandala of tantric symbolism, and the dakini with bumpa vase
is part of a larger tapestry of deities—some wrathful, some
serene—each representing aspects of the enlightened mind. Her presence
is a reminder that transformation often comes through surrender,
intuition, and the fierce grace of the feminine divine.
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Visitors often encounter this figure while ascending through the
chorten’s interior shrines, which are dedicated to various esoteric
teachings. The dakini’s gaze, posture, and adornments are rich with
meaning—her ornaments may include bone jewelry, symbolizing
impermanence, and her dance-like stance evokes the freedom of awakened
awareness. In Bhutanese culture, she is not just a mystical figure but
a living archetype of spiritual liberation, guiding devotees through
the inner landscapes of devotion, purification, and realization.
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Bottom photograph by Bernard Gagnon, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0
license.
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Panorama of the northeast corner of the Memorial Chorten
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Pilgrims making prostrations in front of the eastern side of the
chorten
Prostrations are a profound act of devotion and purification,
embodying the surrender of ego and the cultivation of humility.
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Far more than a physical gesture, they are a ritualized movement that
engages body, speech, and mind in reverence to the Three Jewels—the
Buddha, Dharma, and Sangha. By lowering oneself fully to the ground,
practitioners symbolically dissolve pride and self-centeredness,
aligning themselves with the enlightened qualities they aspire to
realize. This act is often accompanied by visualization and mantra
recitation, transforming the prostration into a dynamic meditation
that purifies karmic obscurations and accumulates merit.
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The practice of prostration is especially emphasized in ngöndro, the
preliminary practices of Vajrayana, where thousands of prostrations
may be performed as a foundational step toward deeper tantric
teachings. Each movement is imbued with intention: touching the crown,
throat, and heart before bowing signifies homage to the enlightened
body, speech, and mind. The repetition of this gesture, often done in
large numbers, is believed to clear the subtle channels of the body,
preparing the practitioner for the transformative path of Vajrayana.
It is a discipline of devotion, endurance, and spiritual refinement.
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At the Memorial Chorten in Thimphu, prostrations take on a communal
and deeply personal significance. The east side of the chorten, bathed
in morning light, is a favored spot for elderly Bhutanese and devoted
practitioners to perform their bows. This orientation toward the
rising sun is symbolically potent—it represents awakening, renewal,
and the illumination of wisdom. The act of prostrating here is not
only a spiritual exercise but a cultural rhythm, woven into the daily
lives of those who seek blessings, healing, and connection with the
sacred.
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The east side of the chorten is also where the large red prayer wheels
stand, and where the energy of devotion is palpable. The smooth stones
worn down by countless prostrations speak to the generational
continuity of faith. On auspicious days, the area becomes a tapestry
of movement and mantra, with practitioners bowing in synchrony, their
bodies echoing the rhythm of prayer. In this sacred space, prostration
becomes a dance of surrender and aspiration—a physical offering to the
enlightened mind and a step toward one's own awakening.
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East door of Memorial Chorten
Standing sentinel above the
eastern entrance is the figure of Dhrtarastra, the Celestial King of the
East.
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As one of the Four Guardian Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Dhrtarastra
is revered as the protector of the eastern direction and the guardian
of music and harmony. His presence above the gate is not merely
symbolic—it serves as a spiritual safeguard, warding off negative
energies and ensuring that those who enter the sacred grounds do so
with pure intention.
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Dhrtarastra is typically depicted wearing regal armor and holding a
stringed instrument, often a lute or pipa, which represents his
dominion over sound and the arts. His expression is stern yet
composed, embodying the balance between vigilance and benevolence. In
Bhutanese iconography, such guardian figures are often rendered with
vivid colors and intricate detailing, and Dhrtarastra’s statue is no
exception—his robes ripple with carved folds, and his gaze seems to
pierce through time, reminding visitors of the unseen forces that
protect the Dharma.
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The placement of his statue above the eastern gate aligns with
traditional Buddhist temple architecture, where each cardinal
direction is guarded by a celestial king. Dhrtarastra’s eastern post
is especially significant at the Memorial Chorten, as the east side is
bathed in morning light and is a favored spot for pilgrims to begin
their circumambulation. His watchful presence sets the tone for the
spiritual journey ahead, offering a silent blessing to those who pass
beneath him.
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For Bhutanese devotees, Dhrtarastra is more than a mythic figure—he is
a living symbol of protection and spiritual order. His statue,
elevated above the doorway, serves as a reminder that the path to
enlightenment is safeguarded by divine forces. In the quiet moments of
dawn, as pilgrims spin prayer wheels and whisper mantras, Dhrtarastra
stands above them, a celestial guardian anchoring the eastern horizon
of their devotion.
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South door of the Memorial Chorten
Above the southern
entrance stands the figure of Virudhaka, the Heavenly King of the South.
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As one of the Four Guardian Kings in Buddhist cosmology, Virudhaka is
entrusted with the protection of the southern quadrant of the world
and is associated with the virtue of growth and expansion. His
presence at the chorten is both symbolic and spiritual, serving as a
guardian who wards off malevolent forces and ensures the sanctity of
the sacred space within.
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Virudhaka is typically depicted wielding a sword, which represents his
role in cutting through ignorance and defending the Dharma. His
posture is commanding, his gaze unwavering, and his armor richly
detailed—each element reinforcing his role as a divine protector. In
Bhutanese iconography, such statues are often vibrant and expressive,
and Virudhaka’s figure above the southern gate is no exception. The
sword he holds is not just a weapon but a spiritual tool, signifying
clarity, discipline, and the power to overcome inner and outer
obstacles.
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The southern gate itself is a place of transition, where pilgrims pass
from the outer world into the sacred realm of the chorten. Virudhaka’s
elevated position above this threshold is deliberate, reminding those
who enter to do so with mindfulness and reverence. His watchful
presence is a silent invocation of protection, ensuring that the
spiritual journey undertaken within the chorten is shielded from
distraction and harm. For many Bhutanese, this guardian is not just a
statue but a living embodiment of divine vigilance.
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In the broader context of the Memorial Chorten, Virudhaka complements
the other Guardian Kings who stand watch over the cardinal directions.
Together, they form a celestial perimeter, anchoring the monument in a
protective mandala. Virudhaka’s southern post is especially resonant
in Bhutanese tradition, where the south is often associated with
vitality and transformation. His statue, poised above the gate, is a
testament to the enduring power of spiritual guardianship in Bhutan’s
sacred architecture.
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White lion atop a column in front of the south door
The
white lion is a powerful symbol of fearless joy, purity, and awakened
dignity.
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Often depicted with a flowing mane and a vibrant, playful stance, the
lion embodies the energy of the enlightened mind—bold, unshakable, and
radiant. Its roar is likened to the proclamation of the Dharma,
cutting through ignorance and delusion. When placed atop a column or
pedestal, the white lion becomes a guardian of sacred space, a
sentinel of truth and clarity that watches over the spiritual path
with unwavering presence.
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The lion is one of the Four Directional Dignities in Tibetan
iconography, alongside the tiger, garuda, and dragon. Each represents
a quality essential to the Bodhisattva path. The snow lion (often
rendered as white) is associated with the east, symbolizing purity and
the element of water. It is said to dwell in the high mountains,
untouched by worldly defilements, and its boundless energy reflects
the joy that arises from deep spiritual practice. In ritual contexts,
the lion may also serve as a mount for deities like Mañjuśrī, the
Bodhisattva of wisdom, reinforcing its role as a bearer of enlightened
insight.
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At the Memorial Chorten in Thimphu, the white lion atop a column
carries layered significance. Architecturally, it marks the threshold
between the mundane and the sacred, standing as a visual invocation of
courage and spiritual nobility. Spiritually, it serves as a beacon for
practitioners, reminding them to approach the teachings with fearless
joy and a pure heart. The lion’s elevated position suggests
transcendence—rising above samsaric concerns to embody the clarity and
strength of the Dharma.
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For Bhutanese devotees, the lion is not merely symbolic—it is alive in
the cultural psyche, woven into prayer flags, thangka paintings, and
ceremonial dances. At the chorten, where daily rituals and
circumambulations unfold, the lion silently participates in the
spiritual choreography, its presence anchoring the space in sacred
intention. In this way, the white lion atop the column is both
guardian and guide—a majestic embodiment of the path toward awakening.
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Pilgrims circumambulating the stupa
The daily rhythm of
devotion is beautifully embodied by pilgrims who circumambulate the
stupa in a clockwise direction, a practice known as kora. This
movement follows the sun’s path across the sky and symbolizes the
unfolding of spiritual awareness.
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As they walk, devotees recite mantras and prayers, aligning their
steps with the sacred geometry of the chorten. The act of
circumambulation is not merely physical—it is a meditative journey
that purifies karma, cultivates merit, and deepens one’s connection to
the enlightened mind of the Buddha.
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Many pilgrims carry hand-held prayer wheels, known as
mani wheels, inscribed with the mantra
Om Mani Padme Hum. These wheels contain scrolls of sacred texts
and are spun gently with a flick of the wrist, releasing blessings
into the world with each rotation. The spinning of the wheel is
considered equivalent to reciting the mantra aloud, making it a
powerful tool for those who may not be literate or able to chant for
long periods. The rhythmic motion of the wheels, combined with the
steady pace of walking, creates a serene and focused atmosphere around
the chorten.
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The Memorial Chorten is also surrounded by large, stationary prayer
wheels—called lakhor—which pilgrims turn one by one as they
pass. The east side of the chorten, bathed in morning light, is
especially popular for this practice. Elderly Bhutanese often gather
here at dawn, their movements slow and deliberate, their devotion
palpable. Some spend hours in this sacred circuit, offering butter
lamps, chanting, and spinning wheels, their lives woven into the
spiritual fabric of the monument.
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This daily ritual transforms the Memorial Chorten into a living
mandala, where architecture, movement, and intention converge. It is a
space where the sacred is not confined to statues or scriptures but is
enacted through the body and breath of the community. For visitors,
witnessing this quiet choreography offers a glimpse into Bhutan’s deep
spiritual heritage—one where devotion is not a performance but a way
of life.
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South exit gate
The gate is richly adorned, with its
interior walls bearing engraved stone slabs that depict three towering
figures in Bhutanese Buddhist tradition: Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal,
Gautama Buddha, and Guru Padmasambhava.
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These carvings are not merely decorative—they serve as visual
invocations of wisdom, compassion, and transformative power, greeting
pilgrims and visitors with a silent blessing as they enter the sacred
grounds.
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Ngawang Namgyal, the unifier of Bhutan and founder of its dual system
of governance, is often portrayed with a serene yet commanding
presence. His image at the gate reminds visitors of Bhutan’s
historical and spiritual lineage. Gautama Buddha, the Enlightened One,
is depicted in classic meditative posture, radiating calm and clarity.
Padmasambhava, the tantric master who brought Buddhism to the
Himalayas, appears in his iconic lotus-born form, symbolizing mystical
insight and protection. Together, these figures form a triad of
Bhutanese spiritual identity, anchoring the chorten’s purpose as a
monument to the enlightened mind.
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To the left of the gate, large prayer wheels spin continuously, turned
by the hands of devoted locals. The rhythmic clatter of these wheels,
combined with the scent of juniper incense and the murmur of mantras,
creates an atmosphere that is both reverent and alive. The gate opens
onto a small garden and lawn, offering a moment of quiet reflection
before one approaches the main stupa. This transition—from engraved
stone to open space—mirrors the spiritual journey from form to
formlessness, from ritual to realization.
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Though only one of the four gates is open to the public, its interior
is a microcosm of Bhutanese devotion. The engraved slabs are not just
artistic expressions—they are spiritual signposts, guiding the pilgrim
inward. For many Bhutanese, passing through this gate is a daily
ritual, a moment to reconnect with the teachings of the masters and
reaffirm their path. It’s a space where history, faith, and artistry
converge in quiet harmony.
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