The Bhutia Busty Monastery, also known as Karma Dorjee Chyoling Monastery, is
one of Darjeeling’s oldest and most historically rich Buddhist sites.
Originally established in 1761 by Lama Dorje Rinzing on Observatory Hill, the
monastery was once affiliated with the Kagyupa sect’s Phodang Monastery in
Sikkim. Over the centuries, it has endured invasions, relocations, and natural
disasters. After being destroyed during the Gorkha invasion in 1815, it was
rebuilt in 1861 and later moved to its current location in Bhutia Busty, about
1.5 kilometers downhill from Chowrasta Mall, in 1879.
The monastery belongs to the Red Sect of Tibetan Buddhism, with ties to both
the Kagyu and Nyingma orders. Its architecture reflects traditional Tibetan
styles with Sikkimese influences, and the prayer room is adorned with murals
depicting the life of Buddha—crafted from powdered stones and even real gold
dust, making photography strictly prohibited inside. Among its prized
possessions is an original copy of the Tibetan Book of the Dead, housed in its
modest but culturally significant library.
Despite its serene setting and spiritual significance, Bhutia Busty Monastery
has faced its share of misfortune. In 1934, a powerful earthquake destroyed
the structure, which was later rebuilt with the patronage of the Chogyal of
Sikkim. Today, the monastery is home to only a few resident monks, offering
visitors a rare opportunity for quiet reflection and personal interaction. The
head monk, affectionately known as AK, has become a local legend for his
warmth and storytelling.
Visitors can reach the monastery via a scenic downhill walk from Chowrasta,
passing through lush landscapes and village homes. The path is steep but
rewarding, and for those less inclined to hike back uphill, shared jeeps from
Lebong taxi stand offer an easier return. Whether you're drawn by its
spiritual ambiance, historical resilience, or artistic treasures, Bhutia Busty
Monastery remains a tranquil gem in the heart of Darjeeling.
Entrance gate In Vajrayana Buddhist monasteries, especially
those nestled in the Himalayan foothills like Darjeeling, the entrance
gate is far more than a physical threshold—it’s a symbolic passage from
the mundane world into a sacred realm.
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Often ornately decorated with traditional Tibetan motifs, prayer
wheels, and guardian deities, the gate serves as a visual and
spiritual cue that one is entering a space of contemplation, ritual,
and transformation. The act of passing through it is akin to stepping
into a mandala, where every element is imbued with meaning and
purpose.
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These gates are typically flanked by Dharmapala figures—wrathful
protectors of the Dharma—whose fierce expressions are meant to ward
off negative energies and distractions. Above the gate, one might find
the Wheel of Dharma flanked by two deer, symbolizing the Buddha’s
first sermon at Sarnath. The colors used—deep reds, golds, and
blues—are not merely aesthetic but correspond to tantric symbolism,
representing elements like fire, wisdom, and compassion. In
Darjeeling’s monasteries such as Bhutia Busty or Dali Monastery, these
gates often frame panoramic views of the Kanchenjunga range,
reinforcing the connection between spiritual ascent and physical
elevation.
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The entrance gate also plays a role in ritual purification. Visitors
are expected to remove their shoes, lower their voices, and sometimes
spin prayer wheels as they pass through. This transition is not just
behavioral—it’s energetic. The gate marks the boundary where worldly
concerns are left behind, and the mind is invited to settle into a
more meditative state. During festivals like Losar (Tibetan New Year),
the gate becomes a focal point for ceremonial processions, with monks
in ceremonial robes and masks passing through in rhythmic chants and
dances.
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In essence, the entrance gate is a threshold of intention. It invites
reverence, signals transformation, and sets the tone for the spiritual
journey that unfolds within. In Darjeeling, where monasteries are
often perched on misty hillsides and surrounded by prayer flags
fluttering in the wind, the gate becomes a poetic metaphor: a doorway
between earth and sky, self and spirit.
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Photograph by Amitabha Gupta, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Dharma wheel flanked by two gazelles on top of the entrance gate At the entrance of many Vajrayana Buddhist monasteries,
especially in Darjeeling, one often encounters a striking symbol: an
eight-spoked Dharma Wheel flanked by two gazelles.
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This emblem is not merely decorative—it encapsulates the essence of
Buddhist philosophy and the transformative power of the teachings. The
wheel, known as the Dharmachakra, represents the Buddha’s first sermon
at Deer Park in Sarnath, where he “set the wheel of Dharma in motion.”
The eight spokes correspond to the Noble Eightfold Path, guiding
practitioners toward ethical living, mental discipline, and spiritual
insight.
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The gazelles, typically depicted as a male and female pair, symbolize
the joyful receptivity of beings who hear and embrace the Dharma.
According to legend, when the Buddha began teaching, two deer emerged
from the forest and gazed at the wheel with unwavering delight. Their
presence in the iconography reflects the ideal qualities of Dharma
students—gentle, attentive, and open-hearted. In Vajrayana tradition,
the gazelles also represent skillful means and wisdom, the two wings
of enlightenment that must work in harmony.
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Placed atop the monastery gate, this trio—wheel and gazelles—serves as
a threshold marker, signaling the transition from the ordinary world
into a sacred space of learning and introspection. It invites visitors
to leave behind distractions and enter with reverence and intention.
In Darjeeling, where monasteries like Bhutia Busty and Dali Monastery
perch on misty hillsides, the symbol often frames panoramic views of
the Himalayas, reinforcing the connection between spiritual ascent and
physical elevation.
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Beyond its spiritual meaning, the wheel with gazelles is also a
cultural seal, historically used by institutions like Nalanda
University to denote Buddhist scholarship. In Darjeeling’s monastic
architecture, it stands as a beacon of continuity—linking ancient
teachings with contemporary seekers. Whether seen by pilgrims or
tourists, this symbol quietly reminds all who pass beneath it that the
path to awakening begins with a single step through the gate.
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Photograph by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Path from the entrance gate to the temple In Vajrayana
Buddhist monasteries, the path from the entrance gate to the temple is
not merely a walkway—it’s a symbolic journey of transformation.
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As one crosses the threshold of the ornately decorated gate, often
adorned with the Dharmachakra flanked by gazelles, the path ahead
becomes a metaphor for the spiritual progression from ignorance to
awakening. This passage is designed to slow the visitor down,
encouraging mindfulness and reverence. In Darjeeling, where
monasteries like Bhutia Busty, Dali Monastery, and Yiga Choeling are
nestled into the misty hills, the path often winds gently through
prayer flags, stone steps, and fluttering foliage, reinforcing the
sense of entering a sacred space removed from worldly distractions.
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The path itself is often lined with prayer wheels, which devotees spin
as they walk, reciting mantras like Om Mani Padme Hum. This act is
believed to accumulate merit and purify negative karma, making the
journey toward the temple a ritual in its own right. In some
monasteries, the path may include a Parikrama route—a circumambulatory
trail around the temple—allowing practitioners to engage in meditative
walking while reflecting on the teachings of the Buddha. The physical
movement mirrors the inner journey, and the rhythmic motion of feet on
stone becomes a grounding practice in presence and devotion.
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Architecturally, the path is often designed to frame the temple
gradually, revealing glimpses of its golden spires or vibrant murals
as one ascends. This slow unveiling heightens anticipation and deepens
the emotional impact of arrival. In Darjeeling’s monasteries, where
the Himalayan backdrop adds a layer of majesty, the path often opens
up to panoramic views of Kanchenjunga, reinforcing the connection
between spiritual elevation and physical ascent. The interplay of
nature and sacred architecture along the path evokes a sense of
harmony and awe.
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Ultimately, the path from gate to temple is a threshold of intention—a
liminal space where the mundane is left behind and the sacred begins.
It invites the practitioner to shift from external concerns to
internal stillness, preparing the mind for meditation, prayer, and
insight. In the Vajrayana tradition, where symbolism and ritual are
deeply woven into practice, this path is not just a route—it’s a rite.
And in Darjeeling, with its serene landscapes and storied monasteries,
the journey is as meaningful as the destination.
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Photograph by Amitabha Gupta, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Tall white flags with red tips lining the path In Vajrayana
Buddhist monasteries, especially those in Darjeeling, the tall white
flags with red tips lining the path to the temple are known as Lungta,
or “wind horse” flags. These vertical prayer flags are deeply symbolic,
serving both spiritual and environmental purposes.
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The white background represents purity of intention, while the red
tips signify fire and transformation, elements crucial to tantric
practice. Each flag is inscribed with mantras and sacred texts, most
commonly Om Mani Padme Hum, the mantra of Avalokiteshvara, the
bodhisattva of compassion. As the wind passes through the flags, it is
believed to carry the blessings and prayers across the landscape,
purifying the space and benefiting all sentient beings.
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Unlike the more colorful horizontal prayer flags (called Dar Cho),
Lungta flags are typically placed in rows along pathways, especially
those leading from the entrance gate to the temple. This alignment
creates a ritual corridor, guiding the practitioner from the outer
world into the sacred interior. The fluttering of these flags is not
just visually striking—it’s a living ritual, where nature itself
becomes a participant in spiritual practice. In Darjeeling, where
monasteries like Dali Monastery and Bhutia Busty are perched on misty
hillsides, these flags often sway against dramatic backdrops of forest
and sky, reinforcing the sense of entering a liminal space between
earth and spirit.
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The Lungta also embodies the wind horse, a mythical creature in
Tibetan Buddhism that symbolizes the speed and strength of good
fortune. By placing these flags along the temple path, devotees invoke
the wind horse to carry their aspirations swiftly toward realization.
The flags are often renewed during auspicious dates, such as Losar
(Tibetan New Year), when monks and laypeople gather to raise fresh
banners, chant prayers, and make offerings. This act of renewal
reflects the impermanence of life and the continuous cycle of
intention, action, and transformation.
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Ultimately, these tall white flags serve as silent teachers. They
remind visitors to walk mindfully, speak gently, and enter the temple
with a heart open to compassion and wisdom. In the Vajrayana
tradition, where symbolism and ritual are woven into every aspect of
practice, even the wind becomes a messenger of the Dharma. And in
Darjeeling, where the air is crisp and the hills whisper ancient
truths, these flags flutter not just for the monastery—but for the
world.
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Photograph by Adam Jones, distributed under a CC-BY 2.0 license.
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Om Mani Padme Hum The mantra Om Mani Padme Hum is one of the most revered
and widely practiced chants in Tibetan Buddhism, deeply associated with
Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion.
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Its six syllables—Om, Mani, Padme, Hum—are believed to
encapsulate the entire path to enlightenment. The phrase is often
translated as “The jewel is in the lotus,” symbolizing the union of
wisdom (padme) and compassion (mani)—the two essential
qualities for spiritual awakening. According to the Dalai Lama, this
mantra has the power to transform one’s impure body, speech, and mind
into the pure exalted body, speech, and mind of a Buddha.
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Each syllable carries profound symbolic meaning. Om represents the
practitioner’s impure state and the potential for purity. Mani,
meaning “jewel,” signifies the altruistic intention to become
enlightened and the cultivation of compassion. Padme, meaning
“lotus,” symbolizes wisdom, which arises unstained from the muddy
waters of ignorance. Hum denotes indivisibility—the unity of method
and wisdom, and the unshakable nature of enlightened mind. Together,
the mantra serves as a spiritual formula for purifying karma,
cultivating inner peace, and aligning oneself with the path of
bodhicitta, the wish to attain enlightenment for the benefit of all
beings.
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The usefulness of chanting Om Mani Padme Hum lies in its
accessibility and transformative potential. It can be recited aloud,
whispered, or meditated upon silently, and is often inscribed on
prayer wheels, flags, and stones throughout the Himalayan region.
Repetition of the mantra is said to generate positive karmic merit,
purify negative emotions, and invoke the blessings of Avalokiteshvara.
Practitioners report feelings of calm, clarity, and emotional release,
and some believe that even a single recitation can have profound
spiritual effects.
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Beyond its spiritual potency, the mantra also serves as a cultural and
devotional anchor. In places like Darjeeling, it’s woven into daily
life—chanted during rituals, carved into mani stones, and fluttering
from prayer flags in the mountain breeze. It’s a sonic bridge between
the individual and the universal, a reminder that compassion and
wisdom are not distant ideals but living forces within us. Whether
whispered in solitude or sung in community,
Om Mani Padme Hum continues to resonate as a timeless call to
awaken the heart.
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Photograph by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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The temple seen from the path
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Photograph by Adam Jones, distributed under a CC-BY 2.0 license.
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Facade of Bhutia Busty Monastery The facade of Bhutia Busty
Monastery is a serene blend of traditional Tibetan architecture with
subtle Sikkimese influences, reflecting the monastery’s historical ties
to both regions.
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The structure is modest yet spiritually resonant, painted in earthy
tones with accents of deep red, ochre, and gold—colors that hold
symbolic significance in Vajrayana Buddhism.
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The entrance is marked by a simple yet elegant archway, often adorned
with prayer flags fluttering in the Himalayan breeze, creating a
welcoming and meditative atmosphere.
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Above the main doorway, one typically finds the Dharmachakra flanked
by two gazelles, a sacred symbol representing the Buddha’s first
sermon at Deer Park and the joyful receptivity of those who hear the
Dharma. This emblem sets the tone for the spiritual journey that
begins as one steps through the gate.
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The facade also features intricate wood carvings, including motifs of
lotus flowers, clouds, and protective deities, all crafted with
traditional tools and techniques passed down through generations.
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Despite its understated elegance, the Bhutia Busty Monastery’s facade
has endured a turbulent history. Originally built in 1761 and
relocated in 1879, it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1934 and later
rebuilt with the patronage of the Chogyal of Sikkim.
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Today, it stands as a testament to resilience and devotion, quietly
inviting visitors to pause, reflect, and enter a space where the
sacred and the scenic converge. On clear days, the monastery’s facade
frames breathtaking views of Kanchenjunga, adding a celestial backdrop
to its spiritual presence.
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Photograph by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Prayer wheels In Vajrayana Buddhist monasteries, prayer
wheels—known as mani wheels—are sacred instruments that embody
the union of physical action, spiritual intention, and meditative focus.
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These cylindrical wheels, often inscribed with the mantra
Om Mani Padme Hum, are filled with scrolls bearing thousands or
even millions of repetitions of the same mantra. Spinning the wheel
clockwise is believed to release the blessings of the mantra into the
world, offering the same spiritual benefit as reciting it aloud. This
makes prayer wheels especially meaningful for practitioners who may be
illiterate or unable to chant for long periods, allowing them to
engage deeply with the Dharma through physical movement.
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The symbolism of the prayer wheel is profound. It represents the
turning of the Dharmachakra, or Wheel of Dharma, which
signifies the spread of the Buddha’s teachings. The act of spinning
the wheel is a ritual of purification—cleansing negative karma,
cultivating compassion, and generating merit.
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In Vajrayana practice, where visualization and intention are central,
practitioners often imagine beams of light emanating from the wheel,
purifying themselves and all sentient beings. Even insects that cross
the wheel’s shadow are said to receive spiritual benefit—a poetic
testament to the inclusivity of Buddhist compassion.
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Prayer wheels come in many forms: handheld, tabletop, water-powered,
wind-powered, and even electrically driven. In monasteries, large
wheels are often installed in rows along circumambulatory paths,
allowing pilgrims to spin them as they walk in meditation. These
wheels are not just devotional tools—they’re living rituals,
integrating body, speech, and mind into a single act of spiritual
alignment. The physical motion of spinning becomes a moving
meditation, reinforcing the Vajrayana emphasis on transforming
everyday actions into sacred practice.
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Beyond their ritual use, prayer wheels serve as architectural and
communal anchors in monastic life. They mark sacred thresholds, guide
pilgrims along spiritual paths, and create an atmosphere of reverence
and tranquility. In places like Darjeeling, where monasteries perch on
misty hillsides, the gentle hum of spinning wheels mingles with the
wind and prayer flags, creating a sensory tapestry of devotion.
Whether touched by monks in deep retreat or tourists seeking peace,
prayer wheels continue to turn—quietly radiating the timeless message
of compassion and awakening.
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Photographs by Adam Jones and Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY
2.0 CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Dharma wheel with two gazelles above the temple portico The
Wheel of Dharma, or Dharmachakra, holds profound significance in
Vajrayana Buddhism, serving as both a visual symbol and a spiritual
metaphor for the Buddha’s teachings.
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Traditionally depicted with eight spokes, it represents the Noble
Eightfold Path, which guides practitioners toward ethical living,
mental discipline, and wisdom. In Vajrayana contexts, the wheel is
often stylized as the Vajra Wheel or Dorje Chakra, incorporating
additional elements like a vajra at the center and flames around the
rim, symbolizing the indestructibility of the Dharma and the
transformative power of tantric practice.
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Each part of the wheel carries layered meaning. The hub signifies
moral discipline—the stable center from which spiritual progress
radiates. The spokes represent the Eightfold Path, acting as conduits
for wisdom and ethical conduct. The rim, which binds the spokes,
symbolizes meditative concentration and mindfulness, essential for
maintaining spiritual cohesion. In Vajrayana, this structure is not
just symbolic—it’s a mandala of motion, reflecting the dynamic
interplay of method and wisdom, compassion and emptiness, that defines
tantric realization.
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The act of “turning the Wheel of Dharma” is a metaphor for the
dissemination of Buddhist teachings. In Vajrayana tradition, this
turning is understood in three stages: the first at Deer Park with the
Four Noble Truths, the second introducing the concept of emptiness and
bodhisattva ideals, and the third revealing the doctrine of
Buddha-nature and the esoteric teachings of tantra. This progression
mirrors the deepening of insight and the refinement of practice,
culminating in the Vajrayana path’s emphasis on direct experience and
symbolic ritual.
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In monasteries across Darjeeling and the Himalayan region, the Wheel
of Dharma is often placed above entrance gates, flanked by two
gazelles, evoking the Buddha’s first sermon and the joyful receptivity
of those who hear the Dharma. It serves as a threshold marker,
inviting practitioners to leave behind worldly distractions and enter
a space of transformation. Whether carved into temple facades or spun
in prayer wheels, the Dharmachakra remains a living emblem of the
Vajrayana journey—one that turns not just with ritual, but with
intention, insight, and the aspiration to awaken for the benefit of
all beings.
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Photograph by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Virudhaka and Dhrtarastra on the left side of the door In
Vajrayana Buddhist monasteries, the depiction of King Virudhaka and King
Dhṛtarastra on the left side of the entrance door to the assembly hall
carries deep symbolic and protective significance.
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These two figures are part of the Four Heavenly Kings
(Caturmaharaja), celestial guardians who protect the Dharma and
the monastic space.
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Dhṛtarastra, the Guardian of the East, is often shown holding a lute,
symbolizing harmony and the safeguarding of spiritual teachings
through sound and music.
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Virudhaka, the Guardian of the South, wields a sword, representing the
cutting away of ignorance and the promotion of growth and virtue.
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Their placement on the left side of the entrance is not arbitrary—it
reflects their directional guardianship and the mandala-like symmetry
of sacred space. In traditional iconography, Dhṛtarastra governs the
eastern quadrant and Virudhaka the southern, so their images are
positioned accordingly to maintain cosmic balance. As one enters the
temple, passing these guardians is akin to crossing a threshold of
purification, where negative energies are repelled and the mind is
prepared for spiritual engagement. Their fierce expressions and
warrior-like attire are meant to intimidate malevolent forces while
reassuring devotees of divine protection.
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These kings are also associated with specific classes of beings:
Dhṛtarastra leads the Gandharvas, celestial musicians, while Virudhaka
commands the Kumbhanḍas, fierce spirits of transformation. Their
presence at the entrance signals the integration of worldly and
spiritual realms, reminding practitioners that the path to
enlightenment involves both inner harmony and the courage to confront
obstacles. In Vajrayana, where ritual and symbolism are central, these
figures serve as guardians of the sacred mandala, ensuring that only
those with sincere intent enter the assembly hall.
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Ultimately, the depiction of Virudhaka and Dhṛtarastra is a visual
invocation of protection, discipline, and spiritual readiness. Their
placement reinforces the sanctity of the temple and the transformative
journey that begins at its threshold. In the misty monasteries of
Darjeeling and beyond, these guardians stand watch—silent sentinels of
the Dharma, inviting all who enter to walk the path with reverence and
resolve.
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Photograph by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Entrance door to the main hall of the temple In a Vajrayana
Buddhist temple, the main hall—often referred to as the
Assembly Hall or Dharma Hall—serves as the spiritual heart
of the monastery. It is the space where the most sacred rituals,
teachings, and meditative practices unfold.
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Architecturally, it is designed to reflect the mandala, a symbolic
representation of the universe, with the central altar enshrining the
temple’s principal deity or enlightened figure—typically a Buddha or
Bodhisattva such as Avalokiteshvara or Vajrasattva. The hall’s layout
is not merely functional; it embodies the Vajrayana emphasis on sacred
geometry, symbolic placement, and the integration of outer, inner, and
secret aspects of practice.
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The main hall is where tantric rituals are performed, including
empowerments (abhisheka), pujas, and visualizations. These ceremonies
often involve elaborate offerings, mantra recitations, and mudras, all
aimed at transforming the practitioner's perception and aligning them
with enlightened qualities. The hall’s atmosphere is charged with
symbolic elements: thangkas (sacred paintings), statues, mandalas, and
ritual implements like vajras and bells. These are not decorative—they
are tools for awakening, each representing aspects of wisdom,
compassion, and the path to realization.
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Monks and lay practitioners gather in the main hall for daily prayers
and teachings, often seated in rows facing the altar and the presiding
lama or teacher. The hall becomes a living mandala during these
sessions, with the sangha (community) forming concentric circles of
intention and devotion. The acoustics are designed to amplify the
resonance of chants, creating a vibrational field that supports
meditative absorption. During major festivals like Losar (Tibetan New
Year) or Guru Rinpoche Day, the hall transforms into a ceremonial
theater, with masked dances (cham), musical performances, and ritual
enactments that convey esoteric teachings through symbolic movement.
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Beyond its ritual function, the main hall is a threshold between
worlds—a place where the mundane dissolves and the sacred becomes
palpable. Entering it is an act of intention: shoes are removed,
voices lowered, and minds stilled. The hall invites practitioners to
step into a space of transformation, where the teachings of
Vajrayana—swift, potent, and deeply symbolic—can be experienced not
just intellectually, but viscerally. In the misty monasteries of
Darjeeling and across the Himalayan belt, the main hall stands as a
sanctuary of wisdom, a crucible of practice, and a gateway to
awakening.
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Photograph by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Vaisravana and Virupaksa on the right side of the door In
Vajrayana Buddhist monasteries, the depiction of Kings Vaisravana and
Virupaksa on the right side of the entrance door to the assembly hall
carries deep symbolic and directional significance.
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These two figures are part of the Four Heavenly Kings
(Caturmaharaja), celestial guardians who protect the Dharma and
maintain cosmic order.
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Vaisravana, the Guardian of the North, is often portrayed holding a
mongoose spewing jewels or a victory banner, symbolizing wealth,
ethical stewardship, and protection. He is also considered a
Dharmapala, a protector of Buddhist teachings, and is invoked for both
material stability and spiritual fortitude.
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Virupaksa, the Guardian of the West, is typically shown with a stupa
or serpent, representing spiritual insight, vigilance, and
transformation. His name translates to “He Who Sees All,” reflecting
his role as the overseer of karmic actions and the protector of
wisdom. In iconography, he is often associated with Nagas,
serpent-like beings linked to water and fertility, further emphasizing
his connection to intuitive knowledge and the unseen realms. His
presence at the entrance serves as a reminder to enter the temple with
clarity and awareness.
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Their placement on the right side of the entrance is not arbitrary—it
aligns with their directional guardianship in the mandala-like
symmetry of sacred space. Vaisravana governs the north and Virupaksa
the west, so their images are positioned accordingly to maintain
cosmic balance and spiritual protection. As one passes through the
temple threshold, these guardians symbolically repel negative energies
and prepare the mind for spiritual engagement. Their fierce
expressions and regal postures are meant to intimidate malevolent
forces while reassuring devotees of divine guardianship.
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Together, Vaisravana and Virupaksa embody the dual forces of
prosperity and insight, anchoring the temple’s entrance in both
material and spiritual realms. Their depiction reinforces the sanctity
of the assembly hall and the transformative journey that begins
within. In the mist-shrouded monasteries of Darjeeling and across the
Himalayan belt, these kings stand as silent sentinels, inviting all
who enter to walk the path with reverence, clarity, and courage.
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Photograph by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Sword and Bird Logo on the wall on the right side of the temple
portico The Sword and Bird Logo found on the portico of Vajrayana
Buddhist monasteries is a richly layered emblem that encapsulates the
transmission of Dharma into Tibet during the 8th century.
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Traditionally, the logo features a flaming sword rising from a lotus,
with a book beneath it and two birds—often a duck and a
parrot—flanking the blade. Each element symbolizes one of the
foundational figures of Tibetan Buddhism: the lotus for Padmasambhava,
the book for Shantarakshita, the sword for King Trisong Detsen, and
the birds for Vimalamitra and Vairotsana, the great translators.
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This visual composition is not merely decorative—it’s a mandala of
lineage, representing the union of wisdom, compassion, and enlightened
action.
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When the hilt of the sword is depicted as a vajra, the symbolism
deepens. The vajra, or dorje, is the quintessential symbol of
Vajrayana Buddhism, representing indestructible truth and enlightened
power. By placing the vajra at the base of the sword, the logo
suggests that the king’s authority and the Dharma’s cutting clarity
are rooted in the unshakable essence of reality. It transforms the
sword from a mere weapon into a spiritual tool, one that slices
through ignorance with the force of compassion and insight. The vajra
also evokes the tantric principle of method—dynamic, skillful means in
service of awakening.
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Even more esoteric is the inclusion of the Tai Chi symbol (Yin-Yang)
at the center of the vajra. Though not traditionally Tibetan, its
presence introduces a cross-cultural layer of meaning, emphasizing
balance and interdependence. The Tai Chi symbol represents the dynamic
interplay of opposites—light and dark, active and passive, male and
female—which aligns with Vajrayana’s emphasis on the union of wisdom
and method, or emptiness and form. Placing it at the heart of the
vajra suggests that even the most indestructible truths are animated
by the dance of duality, and that enlightenment arises from
embracing—not escaping—this tension.
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Altogether, this enhanced Sword & Bird Logo becomes a visual Dharma
teaching. It honors the historical figures who brought Buddhism to
Tibet, while also conveying the philosophical depth of Vajrayana
practice. The sword’s upward thrust signifies aspiration and clarity;
the vajra hilt anchors it in timeless truth; and the Tai Chi center
reminds us that awakening is not static, but a dynamic balance. On the
portico of a monastery, this emblem invites all who enter to walk the
path with courage, insight, and reverence for the lineage that made it
possible.
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Photograph by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Multicolored Dharma Wheel on the roof of the temple portico The Dharma Wheel with four colors—blue, red, green, and
yellow—arranged between its eight spokes and spiraling at the center is
a deeply symbolic representation in Vajrayana Buddhism, especially
within Tibetan iconography.
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Each color corresponds to one of the Five Buddha Families, which
embody different aspects of enlightened mind. Though white is
traditionally the fifth color, in this depiction, the four visible
hues are paired to emphasize duality and transformation, with opposing
colors representing complementary energies. For example, blue and
orange (often substituted by red) may symbolize wisdom and method,
while green and yellow reflect activity and equanimity.
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The eight spokes of the wheel represent the Noble Eightfold Path,
guiding practitioners toward ethical conduct, mental discipline, and
wisdom. The colored segments between the spokes suggest that each path
is infused with a unique energetic quality—blue for clarity and depth,
red for compassion and vitality, green for action and balance, and
yellow for groundedness and generosity. These colors are not merely
decorative; they serve as visual mantras, reminding the viewer that
enlightenment is achieved through the integration of diverse qualities
and practices.
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At the center of the wheel, the spiral formed by the four colors
symbolizes the dynamic interplay of the elements and energies that
give rise to awakened consciousness. Spirals in Buddhist art often
represent evolution, motion, and the unfolding of inner wisdom. In
this context, the spiral suggests that the path to enlightenment is
not linear but cyclical and transformative, with each turn deepening
one’s understanding and dissolving layers of ignorance. The spiral
also evokes the mandala, a sacred geometric form used in tantric
visualization practices, reinforcing the wheel’s role as both a map
and a mirror of the enlightened mind.
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Altogether, this multicolored Dharma Wheel becomes a living mandala of
practice, lineage, and realization. It invites the practitioner to
move beyond duality, embrace the full spectrum of experience, and
recognize that the path to awakening is as vibrant and multifaceted as
the mind itself. In monasteries across Darjeeling and the Himalayas,
such wheels are not only symbols but tools of transformation, guiding
seekers toward the center of their own spiritual spiral.
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Photograph by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Transforming the Five Poisons into Five Wisdoms In Vajrayana
Buddhism, the transformation of the five poisons into the five wisdoms
is a profound spiritual alchemy.
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The five poisons—attachment, anger, ignorance, pride, and jealousy—are
considered the root afflictions that bind beings to suffering and
samsara. Rather than rejecting these emotions outright, Vajrayana
teachings encourage practitioners to recognize their intrinsic nature
and transmute them into enlightened qualities. This approach is unique
to the tantric path, which views even the most disturbing emotions as
gateways to awakening when properly understood and worked with.
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Each poison corresponds to a specific wisdom and is embodied by one of
the Five Dhyani Buddhas, who represent different aspects of
enlightened mind. For example, anger, when transformed, becomes
mirror-like wisdom, associated with Akshobhya, reflecting reality
without distortion. Pride is transmuted into the wisdom of equality,
linked to Ratnasambhava, which sees all beings as fundamentally equal.
Attachment becomes the wisdom of discernment, connected to Amitabha,
allowing clear recognition of uniqueness without clinging. Jealousy
transforms into all-accomplishing wisdom, represented by Amoghasiddhi,
which acts skillfully for the benefit of others. Finally, ignorance is
transmuted into the wisdom of the Dharmadhatu, associated with
Vairocana, revealing the vast, empty nature of reality.
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This transformation is not merely symbolic—it’s cultivated through
deep meditation and tantric practices. Practitioners are taught to
observe the arising of these emotions, investigate their nature, and
recognize their emptiness. In doing so, the energy of the emotion is
not suppressed but redirected into wisdom. For instance, when anger
arises, instead of reacting, one might look for its location, shape,
or color—finding none, the practitioner realizes its empty nature.
This insight becomes the basis for mirror-like wisdom.
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Ultimately, the five wisdoms are not separate faculties but interwoven
aspects of awakened awareness. Vajrayana emphasizes that without the
raw material of the poisons, the wisdoms cannot manifest. It’s a
radical reframing: what binds us can also liberate us. This path
requires courage, honesty, and a willingness to face one’s own mind
directly. But in doing so, the practitioner doesn’t just purify the
poisons—they discover that the very essence of those afflictions is
wisdom itself.
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Photograph by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Five-color flags As you walk the path from the main gate to
a Vajrayana Buddhist temple, you're greeted by a vibrant cascade of
prayer flags fluttering in the wind—each one a whisper of devotion and a
breath of sacred intention.
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These flags, arranged in a repeating sequence of yellow, blue, white,
red, and green, are more than decoration; they are spiritual
instruments meant to carry prayers and blessings across the landscape.
their presence transforms the approach to the temple into a living
mandala, a symbolic representation of the universe in motion.
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Each color corresponds to one of the five elements and the five buddha
families, forming a complete cosmological system in vajrayana
buddhism. blue represents space and akshobhya buddha; white symbolizes
air and vairocana; red stands for fire and amitabha; green signifies
water and amoghasiddhi; and yellow embodies earth and ratnasambhava.
as the wind moves through the flags, it is believed to activate the
mantras and prayers printed on them, dispersing compassion, peace, and
wisdom to all beings. the flags don’t send prayers to deities—they
release them into the world, blessing anyone who passes beneath them.
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The flags are often adorned with sacred symbols, such as the wind
horse (lungta), which carries the three jewels of
buddhism—buddha, dharma, and sangha—on its back. surrounding it, you
might find images of the four dignities: the garuda, dragon, snow
lion, and tiger, each representing qualities like fearlessness,
wisdom, and joy. these motifs are not just artistic flourishes; they
are visual mantras, reinforcing the spiritual atmosphere and inviting
reflection with every step toward the temple.
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Over time, the flags fade and fray, a gentle reminder of impermanence.
yet their purpose endures: to continuously renew the flow of blessings
and intentions. new flags are often hung alongside the old, especially
on auspicious days, symbolizing the cycle of life and the ever-turning
wheel of dharma. so when you walk that path lined with color and
meaning, you're not just approaching a temple—you’re entering a sacred
dialogue with the elements, the teachings, and the unseen forces of
compassion.
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Photographs by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Leaving Bhutia Busty Monastery
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Photographs by Sumit Surai, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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