Rumtek Monastery, also known as the Dharma Chakra Centre, is one of the most
significant and visually striking Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in India.
Located about 23 kilometers from Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim, it sits at an
altitude of roughly 1,500 meters, offering sweeping views of the surrounding
Himalayan landscape.
The monastery serves as the seat-in-exile of the Gyalwang Karmapa, the
spiritual head of the Karma Kagyu lineage—one of the four major schools of
Tibetan Buddhism. Its serene setting and spiritual gravitas make it a magnet
for pilgrims, scholars, and travelers alike.
The original Rumtek Monastery was founded in 1734 by the 9th Karmapa, Wangchuk
Dorje, with the patronage of the Sikkimese king, Chogyal Gyurmed Namgyal.
However, by the mid-20th century, the structure had fallen into disrepair. In
1959, the 16th Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe Dorje, fled Tibet and chose Rumtek as
the site for his new seat in exile. With support from the Indian government,
the Sikkim royal family, and local devotees, the monastery was rebuilt in
traditional Tibetan style and inaugurated in 1966. The new complex included a
temple, retreat centers, stupas, and the Karma Shri Nalanda Institute for
Higher Buddhist Studies, which continues to train monks in Buddhist philosophy
and ritual practice.
Architecturally, Rumtek Monastery is a masterpiece of Tibetan design. Its
richly decorated interiors feature murals, thangkas, and statues, including a
ten-foot image of Shakyamuni Buddha and a golden stupa housing the relics of
the 16th Karmapa. The main shrine hall is adorned with silk banners and
paintings of the Kagyu lineage masters, bodhisattvas, and arhats. Outside, the
monastery’s portico is guarded by statues of the Four Heavenly Kings and
crowned with the Dharma Wheel flanked by two gazelles—a symbol of the Buddha’s
first teaching at Deer Park. The rooftop also features five white lion
statues, representing fearless joy and spiritual guardianship.
Despite its spiritual importance, Rumtek has also been at the center of
controversy due to disputes over the recognition of the 17th Karmapa. These
tensions have led to legal battles and even physical confrontations between
rival factions, resulting in Indian security forces being stationed at the
site to maintain peace. Yet, the monastery remains a vibrant center of
Vajrayana practice, hosting annual festivals, ritual dances, and daily pujas
that continue to draw practitioners from around the world. Rumtek is not just
a monument—it’s a living sanctuary of Tibetan Buddhist tradition.
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Police control on the access ramp to the monastery
Rumtek
Monastery, once a serene seat of the Karma Kagyu lineage of Tibetan
Buddhism, has been at the center of a decades-long dispute that
continues to necessitate a strong police presence.
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The core of the conflict lies in the succession controversy
surrounding the 17th Karmapa, the spiritual head of the Karma Kagyu
school. After the death of the 16th Karmapa in 1981, two rival
candidates—Ogyen Trinley Dorje and Trinley Thaye Dorje—were recognized
by different factions within the lineage, each claiming legitimacy.
This split led to legal battles, factional tensions, and even physical
confrontations between supporters of the two claimants.
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The situation escalated in the early 1990s when monks loyal to one
candidate were reportedly forcibly evicted from the monastery by
followers of the other. Rumtek became a flashpoint for sectarian
violence, with pitched battles breaking out between rival groups of
monks. In response, the Indian government deployed armed security
forces to maintain order and prevent further clashes. Since then,
access to the monastery has been tightly controlled, with visitors
required to show identification and security personnel stationed
throughout the complex.
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Adding to the tension is the issue of valuable religious artifacts,
including the sacred vajra mukut or Black Crown, which is believed to
be worth millions. Disputes over who has the right to touch or
inventory these items have led to court orders, demonstrations, and
political involvement. In one instance, the Reserve Bank of India was
ordered to prepare an inventory of Rumtek’s treasures, sparking
outrage among Buddhist organizations who insisted that only the
rightful Karmapa should handle such sacred objects. These disputes
have further entrenched the divisions and heightened the need for
security.
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Despite efforts at reconciliation—including a historic meeting between
the two Karmapa claimants in 2018—the monastery remains under tight
surveillance, and the seat of the Karmapa at Rumtek is still
unoccupied. The ongoing litigation, unresolved succession, and deep
emotional investment of the local and global Buddhist communities
ensure that Rumtek continues to be both a spiritual sanctuary and a
contested symbol of religious authority.
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Panorama of the monastery seen from the northeast
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North entrance
It is not possible to photograph the main
entrance, located to the east, due to the heavy police presence.
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Panorama of the main courtyard
The main courtyard is a
spacious, stone-paved expanse that serves as the heart of the monastic
complex.
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Surrounded by monks’ quarters and the towering main temple, the
courtyard is both a communal gathering space and a ceremonial stage.
It’s here that ritual dances, such as the vibrant Cham performances,
unfold during major festivals like Kagyed and Losar. These sacred
dances, performed in elaborate masks and costumes, are not just
cultural spectacles—they are meditative enactments of Buddhist
teachings meant to purify the environment and invoke blessings.
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At the center of this courtyard stands a striking feature: the oath
pillar, inscribed with Tibetan script. This pillar is more than a
decorative monument—it holds the complete history of Rumtek Monastery,
including the vows and declarations made by lineage holders and
monastic leaders. It serves as a spiritual and historical anchor,
reminding monks and visitors alike of the monastery’s founding
principles and the karmic commitments that sustain its legacy. The
pillar’s presence reinforces the sanctity of the courtyard,
transforming it into a space of remembrance and accountability.
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The courtyard also plays a vital role in daily monastic life. Monks
gather here for philosophical debates, communal prayers, and
teachings. During these sessions, the open sky above and the
surrounding architecture create a sense of sacred enclosure—an
environment conducive to contemplation and learning. Visitors often
witness the rhythmic clapping and animated gestures of debating monks,
a tradition that sharpens understanding and deepens insight into
Buddhist doctrine.
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In essence, the main courtyard and its central oath pillar embody the
living spirit of Rumtek Monastery. They are not just architectural
features but dynamic spaces where history, ritual, and spiritual
practice converge. Whether echoing with the sounds of ritual music or
standing silent under the gaze of the oath pillar, the courtyard
remains a vital nexus of devotion and Dharma.
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Dhrtarastra, the Heavenly King of the East
Dhrtarastra, the
Heavenly King of the East, is one of the Four Guardian Kings in Buddhist
cosmology and plays a vital role in protecting the Dharma.
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As the leader of the Gandharvas—celestial musicians—he embodies
harmony, vigilance, and spiritual resonance. His name translates to
"Upholder of the Nation," and he is traditionally depicted in white,
holding a stringed instrument such as a lute or pipa. This musical
symbol reflects his role in maintaining cosmic balance and using sound
as a vehicle for spiritual transformation.
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At Rumtek Monastery in Sikkim, Dhrtarastra is painted on the portico
alongside the other Guardian Kings, forming a protective ring around
the sacred temple. His image faces east, in alignment with his
directional guardianship, and serves as a spiritual sentinel for all
who enter. The portico acts as a transitional space between the outer
world and the inner sanctum, and Dhrtarastra’s presence reinforces the
sanctity of this threshold. His serene yet commanding expression
invites visitors to enter with mindfulness and respect for the
teachings housed within.
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The artistic rendering of Dhrtarastra at Rumtek reflects traditional
Tibetan iconography. He is often shown in flowing robes, adorned with
a crown or helmet, and surrounded by vibrant colors that highlight his
divine status. His instrument is not merely decorative—it symbolizes
the harmony he protects and the spiritual order he upholds. The
painting may also include subtle motifs of wind and sound, reinforcing
his connection to the Gandharvas and the elemental forces of nature.
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In essence, Dhrtarastra’s presence on the portico of Rumtek Monastery
is a quiet but powerful affirmation of spiritual guardianship. He
stands as a protector of the Dharma and a reminder that the path of
awakening begins with inner harmony and outer vigilance. His image
invites all who pass beneath it to attune themselves to the deeper
rhythms of wisdom and compassion.
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Photographs by Amitabha Gupta and RajashreeTalukdar, distributed under
a CC-BY 4.0 and CC-BY 3.0 license.
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Virudhaka, the Heavenly King of the South
Virudhaka, the
Heavenly King of the South, is one of the Four Guardian Kings in
Buddhist cosmology and serves as the protector of the southern
direction.
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His name means "growth" or "increase," symbolizing his vow to foster
the development of virtuous qualities and spiritual strength. As the
leader of the kumbhanda spirits—fierce, dwarf-like beings—Virudhaka
embodies the power to subdue ignorance and defend the Dharma. He is
traditionally depicted with a sword, which represents his ability to
cut through delusion and protect the teachings of the Buddha.
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At Rumtek Monastery in Sikkim, Virudhaka is painted on the porch
alongside the other Guardian Kings, forming a protective ring around
the sacred temple. His image faces south, in alignment with his
directional guardianship, and serves as a spiritual sentinel for all
who enter. The porch acts as a liminal space between the outer world
and the inner sanctum, and Virudhaka’s fierce presence reinforces the
sanctity of this threshold. His expression is typically stern and
commanding, inviting visitors to enter with mindfulness and a sense of
spiritual discipline.
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The artistic rendering of Virudhaka at Rumtek reflects traditional
Tibetan iconography. He is often shown in blue or dark armor,
brandishing a sword and standing in a dynamic pose that conveys
readiness and strength. Sometimes he is depicted trampling a demon or
standing atop symbolic creatures, emphasizing his role as a subjugator
of evil. These visual elements are designed to inspire reverence and
remind practitioners that the path to enlightenment requires both
inner clarity and outer protection.
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In essence, Virudhaka’s presence on the porch of Rumtek Monastery is a
powerful affirmation of spiritual guardianship. He stands as a
protector of the Dharma and a reminder that growth in wisdom and
compassion must be defended with vigilance. His image invites all who
pass beneath it to enter the monastery not just physically, but with a
heart prepared for transformation.
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Photographs by RajashreeTalukdar and flowcomm, distributed under a
CC-BY 3.0 and CC-BY 2.0 license.
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Virupaksa, the Heavenly King of the West
Virupaksa, the
Heavenly King of the West, is one of the Four Guardian Kings in Buddhist
cosmology and serves as the protector of the western direction.
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His name means "Wide-Eyed" or "He Who Sees All," reflecting his divine
ability to perceive both the physical world and the karmic patterns of
sentient beings. As the leader of the naga spirits—serpent-like beings
associated with water and wisdom—Virupaksa embodies vigilance,
insight, and the power to dispel ignorance. His presence is a reminder
that spiritual clarity requires both inner vision and outer
protection.
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At Rumtek Monastery in Sikkim, Virupaksa is painted on the portico
alongside the other Guardian Kings, forming a symbolic ring of
protection around the sacred temple. His image faces west, in
alignment with his cosmic role, and serves as a spiritual sentinel for
all who enter. The portico acts as a transitional space between the
outer world and the inner sanctum, and Virupaksa’s commanding presence
reinforces the sanctity of this threshold. His gaze is often directed
toward a jewel or stupa in his hand, a gesture meant to avoid harming
beings with the intensity of his vision while focusing on the Dharma.
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Artistically, Virupaksa is depicted in traditional Tibetan style,
often with red or dark skin, adorned in regal armor and flowing robes.
He may hold a snake or a red cord—symbols of transformation and
adaptability—or a stupa, representing his role as a protector of
spiritual truth. His wide eyes and fierce expression convey his
readiness to confront obstacles and safeguard the teachings of the
Buddha. These visual elements are designed to inspire reverence and
remind practitioners of the vigilance required on the path to
enlightenment.
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In essence, Virupaksa’s presence on the portico of Rumtek Monastery is
a powerful affirmation of spiritual guardianship. He stands as a
protector of the Dharma and a guide for those seeking deeper
understanding. His image invites all who pass beneath it to enter the
monastery not just physically, but with a heart attuned to wisdom,
transformation, and the enduring strength of the Buddhist path.
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Photographs by Amitabha Gupta and RajashreeTalukdar, distributed under
a CC-BY 4.0 and CC-BY 3.0 license.
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Vaisravana, the Heavenly King of the North
Vaisravana, the
Heavenly King of the North, is one of the Four Guardian Kings in
Buddhist cosmology and holds a prominent role as the protector of the
northern direction.
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His name means "He Who Hears Everything," symbolizing his omniscient
awareness and vigilant guardianship. As the leader of the yaksha
spirits—beings associated with wealth and protection—Vaisravana
embodies both spiritual authority and material generosity. He is often
depicted in golden armor, holding a parasol or a jewel-spitting
mongoose, each representing sovereignty and the dispelling of greed
through generosity.
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At Rumtek Monastery in Sikkim, Vaisravana is painted on the portico
alongside the other Guardian Kings, forming a symbolic ring of
protection around the sacred temple. His image faces north, in
alignment with his cosmic role, and serves as a spiritual sentinel for
all who enter. The portico acts as a transitional space between the
outer world and the inner sanctum, and Vaisravana’s regal presence
reinforces the sanctity of this threshold. His commanding posture and
richly adorned figure invite visitors to enter with reverence and a
heart attuned to the Dharma.
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Artistically, Vaisravana is rendered in traditional Tibetan style,
often seated on a snow lion—his symbolic mount—while holding a stupa
or a banner of victory. His expression is stern yet benevolent,
conveying both protective strength and compassionate oversight. The
jewel-spitting mongoose in his hand is a particularly striking
feature, symbolizing his power to bestow spiritual and material
abundance. These visual elements are designed to inspire awe and
remind practitioners of the balance between worldly responsibility and
spiritual pursuit.
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In essence, Vaisravana’s presence on the portico of Rumtek Monastery
is a powerful affirmation of spiritual guardianship and enlightened
leadership. He stands as a protector of the Dharma and a beacon of
prosperity, guiding practitioners toward clarity, discipline, and
generosity. His image is not just a painting—it is a living symbol of
the monastery’s commitment to preserving the teachings of the Karma
Kagyu lineage.
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Photographs by Amitabha Gupta and flowcomm, distributed under a CC-BY
4.0 and CC-BY 2.0 license.
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Entrance door to the temple surmounted by five white lions
The five white lion statues perched above the entrance to the
temple are powerful symbols of protection, purity, and enlightened
strength.
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In Tibetan Buddhist iconography, white lions—often referred to as snow
lions—represent fearless joy and the indomitable spirit of the Dharma.
Their placement above the portico is not merely decorative; it marks a
sacred threshold, signaling to all who enter that they are stepping
into a realm guarded by spiritual forces and dedicated to awakening.
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Each lion is sculpted in a dynamic pose, often with one paw raised or
mouth open in a silent roar, conveying vigilance and vitality. Their
expressions are fierce yet noble, designed to ward off negative
energies and distractions. The number five may also carry symbolic
weight, echoing the five Buddha families or the five elements central
to Vajrayana cosmology. Positioned above the main entrance, these
lions form a protective canopy, watching over the temple and those who
seek refuge within its walls.
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During ceremonial events and ritual processions, the portico becomes a
stage for sacred movement and sound, and the lions preside over these
activities as silent witnesses. Their elevated position allows them to
"see" all who approach, reinforcing their role as guardians of the
Dharma and the lineage teachings housed within the temple. They are
part of a larger visual language that includes wrathful deities,
auspicious symbols, and guardian kings—all working together to
sanctify the space.
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In essence, the five white lions of Rumtek Monastery are more than
sculptural adornments—they are embodiments of spiritual guardianship
and enlightened presence. Their fierce grace and symbolic resonance
invite practitioners to enter with courage, clarity, and reverence. As
one passes beneath their gaze, there is a subtle but profound
reminder: the path of awakening is protected, but it also demands
fearless commitment.
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Photograph by Amitabha Gupta, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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Golden Shakyamuni Buddha surrounded by the six paramitas
The
main Buddha statue at Rumtek Monastery is a towering, golden image of
Shakyamuni Buddha, seated in serene meditation at the heart of the
shrine hall.
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Standing approximately ten feet tall, this statue is the spiritual
centerpiece of the Dharma Chakra Centre, radiating calm and wisdom.
Flanked by the disciples Shariputra and Mangalputra, the Buddha is
surrounded by a thousand smaller clay statues, each painted gold,
symbolizing the arrival of one thousand Buddhas in this aeon. The
statue rests behind the ornate throne of the Gyalwa Karmapa,
underscoring its central role in the Karma Kagyu lineage’s devotional
and ritual life.
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Encircling the main Buddha are symbolic representations of the Six
Paramitas, or perfections, which are foundational virtues in Mahayana
Buddhism: generosity (dana), discipline (shila),
patience (kshanti), diligence (virya), concentration
(dhyana), and wisdom (prajna). These qualities are not
merely decorative motifs—they serve as visual teachings, guiding
practitioners on the path to enlightenment. Each paramita is depicted
through symbolic figures and iconography, woven into the murals and
thangkas that adorn the shrine hall’s walls. Together, they form a
mandala of spiritual aspiration, reinforcing the transformative power
of the Buddha’s teachings.
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Among these, Prajna Paramita, the perfection of wisdom, is given
special prominence through the depiction of Garuda, the mythical
bird-like being known for its penetrating vision and ability to soar
above illusion. In Vajrayana symbolism, Garuda represents the clarity
and insight that cuts through ignorance, much like prajna itself. At
Rumtek, Garuda is often shown in dynamic flight, wings outstretched,
eyes wide and fierce—an embodiment of awakened awareness. Its
placement near the Buddha statue serves as a reminder that wisdom is
not passive but active, sharp, and liberating.
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In this sacred setting, the interplay between the Buddha, the
paramitas, and Garuda creates a powerful visual and spiritual
narrative. It invites practitioners to not only venerate the Buddha
but to internalize his qualities, especially the fearless clarity of
prajna. Rumtek’s shrine hall thus becomes more than a place of
worship—it is a living mandala, a sanctuary where the path to
enlightenment is both taught and vividly portrayed.
- Photograph by Pamri, in the public domain.
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Entrance gate to Karma Shri Nalanda Institute
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Two dragons above the clouds halfway up the stairs to the
institute
This mural depicting two dragons—one yellow on the left and one
green on the right—hovering above the clouds with an open lotus between
them containing three colored spheres (yellow, blue, and green) is rich
in symbolic and spiritual meaning.
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In Tibetan Buddhist art, dragons are celestial beings that represent
power, protection, and the awakening of primordial wisdom. Their
placement above the clouds suggests their transcendence over worldly
illusions and their role as guardians of the sacred teachings. The
yellow dragon may symbolize earth and stability, while the green
dragon could represent air or wind, associated with movement and
vitality—together embodying balance and dynamic harmony.
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The open lotus between the dragons is a potent symbol of spiritual
purity and enlightenment. In Buddhist iconography, the lotus grows
from muddy waters yet blooms untainted, representing the journey of
the soul rising above suffering to attain awakening. Its central
position in the mural suggests that the dragons are not merely
protectors but also facilitators of this spiritual blossoming. The
lotus being open indicates receptivity and readiness for
transformation, a theme echoed throughout Vajrayana practice.
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Inside the lotus, the three spheres—yellow, blue, and green—likely
correspond to elemental energies or aspects of enlightened mind.
Yellow often signifies grounded wisdom and equanimity; blue is
associated with vastness, clarity, and the sky-like nature of mind;
and green represents compassionate action and healing. Together, these
spheres may symbolize the integration of wisdom, clarity, and
compassion—the three pillars of the bodhisattva path. Their placement
within the lotus reinforces the idea that these qualities arise from
spiritual purity and inner awakening.
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Overall, this mural serves as a visual mandala, inviting contemplation
and inner alignment. It’s not just decorative—it’s a spiritual
teaching rendered in color and form. Positioned at Rumtek Monastery, a
center of the Karma Kagyu lineage, the mural reflects the lineage’s
emphasis on direct experience, meditative insight, and the
transformative power of symbolic imagery. It reminds practitioners
that the path to enlightenment is guarded, guided, and ultimately
illuminated by the union of elemental forces and awakened mind.
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Inspirational phrase
"KEEP GOING no matter how hard."
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Etched into the stairs leading to the Karma Shri Nalanda Institute,
the phrase "KEEP GOING no matter how hard" stands as a quiet yet
powerful mantra for perseverance. It’s not part of a formal scripture
or ritual, but its placement—on the very steps that monks and students
climb daily—imbues it with spiritual resonance.
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The phrase speaks directly to the heart of Buddhist practice, where
the path to enlightenment is often described as long, challenging, and
filled with inner trials. In this context, the words become a gentle
nudge to continue the journey, even when the terrain—literal or
metaphorical—feels steep.
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The Karma Shri Nalanda Institute is a center for higher Buddhist
studies, where young monks spend years immersed in philosophy, debate,
and meditation. The climb to the institute is not just physical; it
mirrors the intellectual and spiritual ascent that students undertake.
Seeing this phrase on the stairs transforms a mundane act—walking
uphill—into a moment of reflection. It reminds each person that
struggle is part of growth, and that the effort itself is sacred.
Whether one is a monk, a pilgrim, or a visitor, the message resonates
universally: persistence is a virtue.
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What makes the phrase especially poignant is its simplicity. There’s
no elaborate metaphor or doctrinal reference—just a direct
encouragement that cuts through complexity. In a place like Rumtek,
where centuries of tradition and symbolism surround every corner, this
modern, unadorned message feels refreshingly human. It bridges the
ancient and the contemporary, offering a moment of connection that
doesn’t require deep theological understanding—just the willingness to
keep moving forward.
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Ultimately, "KEEP GOING no matter how hard" is more than a
motivational quote—it’s a spiritual whisper embedded in stone. It
reflects the resilience of the Karma Kagyu lineage, the endurance of
the monastic community, and the quiet strength of those who seek
wisdom in the face of adversity. In a monastery shaped by exile,
devotion, and learning, the phrase becomes a living part of the
landscape—a reminder that the path is worth walking, even when it’s
uphill.
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At the top of the stairs we arrive at the institute
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Facade of Karma Shri Nalanda Institute
The facade of the
Karma Shri Nalanda Institute at Rumtek Monastery in Sikkim reflects a
harmonious blend of traditional Tibetan monastic architecture and the
scholastic spirit of Buddhist learning.
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Perched just above the main monastery complex, the institute’s
exterior is modest yet dignified, designed to inspire contemplation
and discipline. Its multi-storied structure is painted in earthy reds
and ochres, accented with vibrant blues and golds that echo the color
symbolism of Vajrayana Buddhism—each hue representing aspects of
wisdom, compassion, and spiritual clarity.
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Architectural details on the facade include intricately carved wooden
cornices, window frames adorned with auspicious motifs, and painted
panels that depict scenes from Buddhist scriptures. These elements are
not merely decorative; they serve as visual teachings, reinforcing the
institute’s role as a center for higher Buddhist studies. The entrance
is often flanked by prayer wheels and small guardian figures, inviting
students and visitors to enter with reverence and a mind attuned to
learning. The overall design is symmetrical and balanced, reflecting
the philosophical ideals taught within.
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Above the main doorway, one might find symbolic emblems such as the
Dharma Wheel or the flaming jewel, representing the transmission of
wisdom and the pursuit of enlightenment. The facade also features
inscriptions in Tibetan script, including mantras and dedications that
sanctify the space. These inscriptions serve as daily reminders to the
young monks—many between the ages of 13 and 35—of the vows they uphold
and the lineage they represent. The building’s elevation above the
main monastery further symbolizes the aspirational nature of study: a
climb toward deeper understanding.
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In essence, the facade of the Karma Shri Nalanda Institute is a quiet
proclamation of Rumtek’s commitment to preserving and transmitting the
teachings of the Karma Kagyu lineage. It stands not only as a physical
gateway to academic rigor but as a spiritual threshold where
tradition, scholarship, and devotion converge. Whether viewed from
below or approached on foot, the building radiates a sense of
purpose—an invitation to “keep going,” no matter how hard, in the
pursuit of wisdom.
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Panorama of the staircase leading to the institute
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Commemorative plaque for the inauguration of the institute
The inauguration of the Karma Shri Nalanda Institute at Rumtek
Monastery was a landmark event in the preservation and transmission of
Tibetan Buddhist scholarship.
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Conceived by the 16th Gyalwang Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe Dorje, the
institute was envisioned as a center for advanced Buddhist studies
within the Karma Kagyu lineage. Its formal inauguration in June 1987
was led by Jamgon Kongtrul Rinpoche and Goshir Gyaltsab Rinpoche, two
of the four regents of the lineage and pivotal figures in the
monastery’s spiritual and educational life. Their leadership marked
the beginning of a new era of scholastic rigor and non-sectarian
learning at Rumtek.
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Jamgon Kongtrul Rinpoche, particularly the third incarnation Karma
Lodro Chokyi Senge, was deeply committed to the vision of the Karma
Shri Nalanda Institute. Following the wishes of the 16th Karmapa, he
oversaw the construction of the institute and provided its
furnishings, including statues and sacred texts. His efforts ensured
that the institute would not only serve as a training ground for young
monks but also as a beacon of the Rime movement, which promotes the
preservation and integration of teachings from all Tibetan Buddhist
traditions. Jamgon Kongtrul the Great, his predecessor, was one of the
founding masters of Rime in the 19th century, and the third Kongtrul
Rinpoche carried forward this legacy by supporting inclusive education
and inter-lineage dialogue.
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Goshir Gyaltsab Rinpoche, as the resident director of the institute
and regent of Rumtek Monastery, played a crucial role in shaping its
curriculum and guiding its spiritual direction. His presence at the
inauguration underscored the institute’s importance within the Karma
Kagyu lineage and its broader mission to uphold the Dharma through
disciplined study and practice. Gyaltsab Rinpoche’s own training and
teachings reflect the Rime spirit, emphasizing the value of receiving
transmissions from multiple traditions while remaining rooted in one’s
own lineage.
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Together, Jamgon Kongtrul Rinpoche and Goshir Gyaltsab Rinpoche
infused the Karma Shri Nalanda Institute with the intellectual depth
and spiritual openness that define the Rime movement. Their
collaboration at Rumtek ensured that the institute would not only
preserve the Karma Kagyu teachings but also serve as a bridge between
traditions, fostering a generation of monks trained in both
scholarship and non-sectarian understanding. Their legacy continues to
shape the institute’s role as a living center of Buddhist learning.
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Panorama of the institute and its surroundings
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Barefoot boy distracting himself with the bottle while the dog
sleeps
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Receiving information about the functioning of the institute
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Inspirational quote
"Know well what leads you forward and
what holds you back, and choose the path that leads to wisdom." Buddha.
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Etched near the Karma Shri Nalanda Institute, the quote "Know well
what leads you forward and what holds you back, and choose the path
that leads to wisdom" attributed to the Buddha, serves as a quiet yet
profound call to self-awareness.
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Positioned in a place of learning and spiritual discipline, the quote
resonates deeply with the institute’s mission: to cultivate clarity,
insight, and ethical conduct among its monastic students. It’s not
just a decorative phrase—it’s a living teaching, embedded in the very
stones that students walk past each day.
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The quote itself is a distilled essence of Buddhist practice. It
encourages practitioners to reflect on their habits, thoughts, and
choices, discerning which ones foster growth and which ones perpetuate
suffering. In the context of the Karma Kagyu lineage, which emphasizes
direct experience and meditative insight, this message becomes a
practical tool for navigating both inner and outer challenges. It’s a
reminder that wisdom is not stumbled upon—it’s chosen, cultivated, and
earned through mindful living.
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Placed next to the institute, the quote also speaks to the academic
rigor and spiritual commitment expected of the monks who study there.
The Karma Shri Nalanda Institute trains young monastics in Buddhist
philosophy, debate, and ritual, and the quote acts as a compass for
their intellectual and moral journey. It’s a gentle nudge to stay
focused, to persevere through difficulty, and to align one’s efforts
with the deeper goal of awakening.
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Ultimately, this quote is more than inspiration—it’s a mirror. It
invites everyone who reads it, whether monk or visitor, to pause and
ask: What am I choosing today? Am I moving toward wisdom, or away from
it? In a place like Rumtek, where tradition and transformation meet,
such a question is not just relevant—it’s sacred.
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Accessing the reliquary stupa of the 16th Gyalwang Karmapa
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The reliquary stupa of the 16th Gyalwang Karmapa
The
reliquary stupa of the 16th Gyalwang Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe Dorje,
stands as one of the most sacred and revered monuments within Rumtek
Monastery.
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After his passing in 1981, his remains were interred in this golden
stupa, which was constructed to honor his life, teachings, and
spiritual legacy. The stupa is housed in a quiet, upper chamber of the
monastery complex, surrounded by statues of past Karmapas and lineage
masters, creating a contemplative space imbued with devotion and
historical depth.
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Architecturally, the stupa is a masterpiece of Tibetan craftsmanship.
It is richly adorned with gold and precious stones, symbolizing the
enlightened qualities of the Karmapa and the immeasurable value of the
Dharma. The structure follows traditional Tibetan stupa design, with a
square base, rounded dome, and spire crowned by a jewel—each element
representing stages of the path to enlightenment. The chamber housing
the stupa is often filled with offerings, butter lamps, and prayer
flags, reflecting the ongoing reverence of monks and pilgrims who come
to pay homage.
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Spiritually, the stupa serves as a focal point for meditation and
pilgrimage. It is not only a memorial but a living presence of the
16th Karmapa’s enlightened activity. Devotees believe that
circumambulating the stupa and making offerings generates merit and
deepens their connection to the Karma Kagyu lineage. The atmosphere
around the stupa is serene and charged with devotion, making it a
powerful site for reflection and renewal.
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In essence, the reliquary stupa of the 16th Gyalwang Karmapa is more
than a monument—it is a spiritual beacon. It anchors Rumtek Monastery
as a center of Vajrayana practice and lineage continuity, and it
reminds all who visit of the enduring compassion and wisdom of one of
Tibetan Buddhism’s most influential figures.
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Photograph by Sandyroyrocky, distributed under a CC-BY 4.0 license.
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