Kharbandi Monastery, Phuentsholing, Bhutan

Kharbandi Monastery, also known as Rinchending Goemba, is a serene Buddhist temple perched on a hilltop about 400 meters above sea level in Phuentsholing, Bhutan.

Built in 1967 by the Royal Grandmother, Ashi Phuntsho Choden, the monastery was originally her winter residence and has since become a cherished spiritual site. Its location offers panoramic views of the bustling border town of Jaigaon in India and the tranquil Bhutanese landscape, creating a striking contrast that visitors often find captivating.

The monastery is renowned for its peaceful ambiance and lush gardens adorned with tropical plants, colorful prayer flags, and eight white-washed stupas. These stupas commemorate significant events in the life of Buddha Shakyamuni, making the site not only visually stunning but also spiritually rich. Inside the main shrine, visitors can find statues of Shakyamuni Buddha, Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), and Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, along with intricate murals and butter lamps that add to the sacred atmosphere.

A unique aspect of Kharbandi Monastery is its association with fertility blessings. According to local legend, an Indian pilgrim once prayed here to be blessed with a child—and her wish was fulfilled. Since then, the monastery has become a pilgrimage site for couples seeking similar blessings. Despite its spiritual significance, the monastery remains relatively uncrowded, allowing visitors to explore its grounds at a leisurely pace and soak in the tranquil energy.

Open daily from 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM, Kharbandi Monastery is easily accessible from Phuentsholing and makes for a perfect stop on the way to Thimphu. Whether you're drawn by its spiritual allure, architectural beauty, or breathtaking views, the monastery offers a memorable experience that blends Bhutanese tradition with natural splendor.

Entrance gate to the monastery
In Vajrayana Buddhism, the entrance gate to a monastery is far more than a physical threshold—it is a symbolic passage from the mundane world into sacred space.

Architecturally, it often reflects the mandala, a cosmic diagram representing the universe, and stepping through it is akin to entering the enlightened mind. The gate marks the beginning of a spiritual journey, where worldly distractions are left behind and the practitioner prepares to engage with teachings that aim to transform consciousness. Ornamentation on the gate—such as guardian deities, auspicious symbols, and mantras—serves both protective and instructive functions, reminding visitors of the sacredness within and the need for reverence.
At Kharbandi Monastery in Phuentsholing, this symbolism is beautifully embodied. The wide entrance gate welcomes visitors with a sense of openness and serenity, inviting them to leave behind the bustling border town below and ascend into a realm of peace and contemplation. The gate’s position—framing views of both Bhutan and India—adds a layer of metaphor: it stands between two worlds, not just geographically but spiritually. As one passes through, the contrast between the chaotic plains of Jaigaon and the tranquil gardens of the monastery becomes palpable, reinforcing the idea of crossing into a higher state of awareness.
The gate also serves as a spiritual checkpoint. In Vajrayana tradition, entering a monastery is not a casual act—it is a commitment to inner transformation. The act of walking through the gate is often accompanied by ritual gestures, such as bowing or spinning prayer wheels, which help align the visitor’s intention with the sacred purpose of the visit. At Kharbandi, the path from the gate curves gently, delaying the full view of the temple and encouraging a mindful approach. This subtle architectural choice mirrors the gradual unveiling of spiritual insight in Vajrayana practice.
Ultimately, the entrance gate at Kharbandi Monastery is a threshold of possibility. It invites not only physical entry but also spiritual openness. Whether one comes seeking fertility blessings, as many do, or simply to admire the panoramic views and stupas commemorating Buddha’s life, the gate marks the beginning of a journey inward. It is a quiet guardian of the sacred, reminding each visitor that transformation begins the moment they choose to step through.

Ritual oven
Outside Kharbandi Monastery in Phuentsholing, the ritual oven used for burning incense and aromatic woods holds profound symbolic and spiritual significance.

In Vajrayana Buddhist tradition, fire is a transformative element—capable of purifying, consecrating, and bridging the earthly with the divine. The oven, often a simple stone or metal structure, becomes a sacred hearth where offerings are made not just to deities but to the unseen energies that permeate the monastery grounds. The rising smoke from juniper, sandalwood, and other sacred woods is believed to carry prayers and intentions upward, dissolving negativity and inviting blessings.
Spiritually, the act of burning incense in this outdoor oven is a gesture of devotion and purification. Before entering the monastery, pilgrims may pause here to cleanse their minds and spirits. The fragrant smoke envelops them, symbolizing the shedding of worldly distractions and the preparation for deeper spiritual engagement. In Bhutanese culture, this ritual is often accompanied by silent prayers or mantra recitations, reinforcing the idea that the sacred begins not within the temple walls, but in the intention with which one approaches them.
The oven also serves as a communal focal point, where monks and laypeople alike participate in shared rituals. During festivals or auspicious days, the fire may be fed continuously, with offerings of rice, butter, and herbs added to the flames. This collective act of burning offerings is seen as a way to harmonize the energies of the community, invoke protection, and honor local spirits. The aromatic woods used are chosen not only for their scent but for their spiritual properties—each one believed to attract specific blessings or dispel particular obstacles.
At Kharbandi Monastery, where the natural beauty of the hillside meets the spiritual serenity of the temple, the ritual oven stands as a quiet sentinel of transformation. It reminds visitors that the journey inward begins with an offering outward—a surrender to the sacred fire that purifies, uplifts, and connects. Whether one is seeking fertility blessings, peace of mind, or simply a moment of reflection, the ritual oven offers a timeless space where smoke becomes prayer and fire becomes grace.

Bhutan Beaty Lizard
The Bhutan Beaty Lizard (Calotes bhutanensis) is a rare and visually striking reptile endemic to the mountainous regions of Bhutan.

First described in 1975 by biologist S. Biswas, this species belongs to the Agamidae family and is known for its vibrant coloration and distinctive physical features. Its body is adorned with intricate patterns of green, blue, and yellow, which provide excellent camouflage against the lush vegetation of Bhutan’s forests. Males typically exhibit more vivid hues and possess a swollen tail base with enlarged scales, a trait linked to mating displays and territorial behavior.
Though Calotes bhutanensis is primarily found near the Manas River and in central Bhutan, sightings near Kharbandi Monastery in Phuentsholing are not unheard of. The monastery’s tranquil gardens and subtropical flora offer a suitable microhabitat for this elusive lizard. Visitors occasionally spot them basking on sunlit rocks or darting through the underbrush, their agile movements and sharp claws allowing them to navigate both trees and rocky terrain with ease. Their presence adds a layer of natural wonder to the spiritual serenity of the monastery grounds.
Symbolically, the Bhutan Beaty Lizard fits seamlessly into the spiritual landscape of Kharbandi Monastery. In Bhutanese culture, animals often carry spiritual significance, and the lizard’s ability to change color and shed its tail in defense can be seen as metaphors for transformation and resilience—qualities deeply valued in Buddhist practice. Its elusive nature and limited geographic range also make it a symbol of rarity and preciousness, much like the sacred teachings preserved within the monastery.
Despite its captivating appearance, Calotes bhutanensis remains poorly studied and is listed as Data Deficient by the IUCN. Its restricted habitat—often no more than 10 square kilometers—makes it vulnerable to environmental changes. The peaceful grounds of Kharbandi Monastery may serve as a quiet refuge for this species, offering not just spiritual sanctuary for humans but ecological shelter for one of Bhutan’s most beautiful reptiles.

Group of five stupas seen from northeast

Panorama of the five stupas, lined up in front of the monastery, and facing the town of Phuntsholing
Lined up like silent sentinels in front of Kharbandi Monastery and gazing out toward the bustling town of Phuentsholing, the five whitewashed chorten (or stupas) are more than architectural features—they are spiritual monuments that encapsulate key moments in the life of Buddha Shakyamuni.

Each chorten is modeled after a specific type of stupa found in India and Nepal, commemorating events such as Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, first sermon, and final nirvana. Their alignment and orientation toward the town below symbolize the transmission of wisdom from the sacred to the secular, offering blessings to all who pass beneath their gaze.
These chorten are not identical; each has subtle differences in shape and ornamentation that reflect the unique event it represents. For example, one may have a dome that signifies enlightenment under the Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya, while another might feature a stepped base recalling the descent from the heavenly realm after preaching to his mother. The Royal Grandmother, Ashi Phuntsho Choden, who founded the monastery in 1967, commissioned these stupas to bring together the essence of Buddhist teachings in one sacred space. Their presence transforms the monastery grounds into a mandala—a spiritual map of the universe.
Spiritually, the chorten serve as focal points for reflection and prayer. Pilgrims often circumambulate them clockwise, reciting mantras or spinning nearby prayer wheels. This act of devotion is believed to purify karma and deepen one’s connection to the dharma. The chorten also act as anchors of tranquility, contrasting with the dynamic energy of Phuentsholing below. Their elevated position on the hill reinforces the idea of rising above worldly concerns to attain spiritual clarity.
Together, the five chorten form a sacred threshold between the monastery and the world beyond. They are not just markers of history but living symbols of transformation, resilience, and enlightenment. Whether viewed from afar or approached in reverent silence, they invite every visitor to pause, reflect, and perhaps begin their own journey inward.

Stupa of Lotus Blossom
The Stupa of Lotus Blossom stands as a radiant symbol of purity and spiritual awakening.

This type of stupa commemorates the birth of Buddha Shakyamuni in Lumbini, where legend says lotus flowers bloomed with each step he took. Architecturally, the Stupa of Lotus Blossom is often distinguished by its elegant dome and lotus motifs, evoking the image of a flower rising unsullied from muddy waters—a metaphor for enlightenment emerging from the chaos of worldly existence.
At Kharbandi Monastery, the Stupa of Lotus Blossom is part of a serene garden that invites quiet reflection. The monastery itself was built in 1967 by the Royal Grandmother, Ashi Phuntsho Choden, and has since become a spiritual haven for pilgrims and seekers. The stupa’s presence here reinforces the idea that spiritual rebirth begins with intention—just as the Buddha’s birth marked the beginning of a path toward liberation. Visitors often circumambulate the stupa, offering prayers and lighting butter lamps, connecting with the energy of new beginnings and the promise of transformation.
Symbolically, the lotus is one of the most revered images in Buddhism. It represents the triumph of wisdom over ignorance, and the ability to remain untouched by suffering while living in the midst of it. The Stupa of Lotus Blossom at Kharbandi is not just a monument—it’s a spiritual compass pointing toward the possibility of inner clarity. Its form mirrors the meditative posture of the Buddha, with the base symbolizing his crossed legs and the dome his body, reinforcing the stupa’s role as a representation of awakened presence.

Stupa of Enlightenment
The Stupa of Enlightenment stands as a radiant symbol of the Buddha’s awakening beneath the Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya.

This moment—when Siddhartha Gautama transcended worldly illusions and attained full enlightenment—is considered the spiritual axis of Buddhist tradition. The stupa at Kharbandi, built in 1967 by the Royal Grandmother Ashi Phuntsho Choden, is a replica of the original Stupa of Enlightenment in India and is one of eight white-washed chorten arranged in a line, each representing a pivotal event in the Buddha’s life.
Architecturally, the Stupa of Enlightenment is characterized by its square base and rounded dome, symbolizing the grounded nature of wisdom and the expansive clarity of awakened mind. Rising above the dome is a spire with thirteen steps, representing the stages of spiritual realization. The stupa’s symmetry and vertical ascent mirror the path from ignorance to insight, guiding practitioners toward the ultimate goal of liberation. Its placement within the monastery’s tranquil gardens, surrounded by prayer flags and tropical blooms, enhances its contemplative atmosphere.
Symbolically, this stupa embodies the transformative power of self-realization. It invites pilgrims to reflect on their own inner journey—on the possibility of awakening that lies dormant within each being. Circumambulating the stupa while reciting mantras is believed to generate merit and deepen one’s connection to the enlightened qualities of wisdom, compassion, and clarity. The stupa’s presence serves as a reminder that enlightenment is not a distant ideal but a living potential accessible through sincere practice.

Stupa of Many Doors
The Stupa of Many Doors stands as a powerful emblem of inclusivity and spiritual openness.

This type of stupa, one of the Eight Great Stupas in Vajrayana Buddhism, symbolizes the Buddha’s ability to teach through countless methods and reach beings of all dispositions. Architecturally, it is distinguished by multiple door-like projections on each side, often interpreted as gateways to enlightenment. These doors represent the myriad paths one can take toward awakening—whether through devotion, wisdom, ethical conduct, or compassionate action.
Spiritually, the Stupa of Many Doors invites reflection on the diversity of human experience and the universality of the Dharma. It teaches that no single path is superior; rather, each individual’s journey is valid and sacred. At Kharbandi Monastery, where eight stupas commemorate key events in the Buddha’s life, this particular stupa encourages visitors to embrace their unique spiritual inclinations. Whether one is a scholar, a meditator, or a lay devotee, the stupa affirms that the doors to liberation are always open.
The stupa also serves as a reminder of the Buddha’s boundless compassion. Just as he descended from Tushita Heaven to teach his mother, he also offered teachings tailored to the needs of gods, humans, and even animals. The Stupa of Many Doors reflects this adaptability, suggesting that the Dharma is not rigid but responsive. Pilgrims often circumambulate the stupa while reciting mantras, symbolically passing through each “door” and reaffirming their commitment to growth and understanding.

Stupa of Great Miracles
The Stupa of Great Miracles stands as a tribute to one of the most awe-inspiring episodes in the life of Buddha Shakyamuni.

This type of stupa commemorates the fifteen days at Jetavana Grove in Sravasti, where the Buddha performed a series of miraculous feats to silence heretical teachers and reaffirm the power of the Dharma. Each day, he manifested a different miracle—multiplying his form, emitting fire and water simultaneously, and more—demonstrating not only supernatural mastery but also the compassionate intent behind his teachings. The stupa’s architecture reflects this drama, often featuring four central projections on each side, symbolizing the widened path of spiritual revelation.
At Kharbandi Monastery, this stupa is one of eight white-washed chorten arranged in a line, each representing a pivotal moment in the Buddha’s life. The Stupa of Great Miracles is distinguished by its multi-tiered base and ornate middle steps, which evoke the grandeur of the miracles performed. Facing the town of Phuentsholing, it serves as a spiritual beacon—reminding visitors that the miraculous is not confined to myth but can be awakened within through practice and insight. The Royal Grandmother, Ashi Phuntsho Choden, commissioned these stupas in 1967 to encapsulate the essence of Buddhist teachings in one sacred space.
Symbolically, this stupa represents the power of faith and the triumph of truth over doubt. It invites pilgrims to reflect on the transformative potential of the Dharma—not just as philosophy, but as a living force capable of dissolving ignorance and fear. Circumambulating the stupa while reciting mantras is believed to generate merit and deepen one’s connection to the miraculous nature of enlightened mind. The stupa’s elevated position on the monastery grounds reinforces its role as a spiritual pinnacle, both literally and metaphorically.

Stupa of Descent from the God Realm
The Stupa of Descent from the God Realm at Kharbandi Monastery is a deeply symbolic monument that commemorates one of the most compassionate acts in the life of Buddha Shakyamuni.

According to Buddhist tradition, at the age of 42, the Buddha ascended to Tushita Heaven to teach the Dharma to his mother, who had been reborn there. After completing this celestial teaching, he returned to the human realm, and this descent is honored through the unique architectural form of the stupa—with central projections on each side containing triple ladders, symbolizing the divine path he traversed.
At Kharbandi Monastery, this stupa is part of a serene garden that features eight white-washed chortens, each representing a pivotal moment in the Buddha’s life. The Stupa of Descent stands out not only for its architectural detail but also for its spiritual resonance. The triple ladder motif is more than ornamental—it reflects the threefold path of Dharma: ethical conduct, meditative concentration, and wisdom. Pilgrims circumambulate the stupa in quiet reverence, contemplating the Buddha’s boundless compassion and the interconnectedness of all realms.
The presence of this stupa in Kharbandi Monastery also reinforces the monastery’s role as a gateway to spiritual reflection. Built in 1967 by the Royal Grandmother Ashi Phuntsho Choden, the monastery has become a pilgrimage site for Bhutanese and Indian devotees alike. The Stupa of Descent invites visitors to reflect on the act of returning—not just physically, but spiritually—to a place of service, humility, and teaching. It’s a reminder that enlightenment is not an escape from the world, but a return to it with greater clarity and compassion.

Stupa of Reconciliation
The Stupa of Reconciliation stands as a quiet yet powerful symbol of healing and unity.

This stupa commemorates the moment when the Buddha resolved a schism within the monastic community—caused by his cousin Devadatta—through the compassionate efforts of his disciples Shariputra and Maudgalyayana. The original stupa was built in Rajgir, India, by the people of Magadha to honor this event, and the replica at Kharbandi was commissioned in 1967 by the Royal Grandmother, Ashi Phuntsho Choden, as part of a series of eight stupas representing key milestones in the Buddha’s life.
Architecturally, the Stupa of Reconciliation is distinguished by its octagonal base, featuring eight sides and eight corners. This design reflects the eightfold path, a central teaching of Buddhism that guides practitioners toward ethical living and spiritual awakening. The symmetry of the stupa evokes balance and harmony—qualities essential to reconciliation. Set among the monastery’s lush gardens and fluttering prayer flags, the stupa invites visitors to pause and reflect on the power of forgiveness and the importance of restoring fractured relationships.
Symbolically, this stupa represents the triumph of compassion over division. It teaches that even deep conflicts can be resolved through understanding, dialogue, and the shared commitment to truth. Pilgrims often circumambulate the stupa while reciting mantras, generating merit and cultivating the inner qualities needed to mend broken bonds. In a world often marked by discord, the stupa serves as a timeless reminder that peace begins with the willingness to listen and reconcile.

Stupa of Complete Victory
Among its most captivating features is a collection of eight white-washed stupas, each commemorating a pivotal event in the life of Lord Buddha. One of these is the Stupa of Complete Victory, or Rnam Rgyal Mchodrten, which symbolizes Buddha’s triumph over death and his decision to extend his life by three months at the request of his disciple Chunda in Vaishali, India.

The Stupa of Complete Victory stands as a spiritual monument to resilience and compassion. It was constructed in memory of the original stupa built by the Devas to honor Buddha’s selfless act of postponing his entry into Mahaparinirvana.
t Kharbandi Monastery, this stupa—alongside its seven counterparts—serves not only as a historical tribute but also as a meditative focal point for pilgrims and visitors seeking peace and reflection.
Each stupa is accompanied by marble plaques that detail its origin and significance, offering a quiet narrative of Buddha’s journey through life, enlightenment, and beyond.
The monastery’s tranquil garden, dotted with tropical plants and fluttering prayer flags, creates a contemplative atmosphere that enhances the spiritual weight of these stupas.
Visitors often pause before the Stupa of Complete Victory to reflect on the themes of endurance and spiritual triumph. The site is especially popular among couples seeking fertility blessings, inspired by local legends of answered prayers, adding another layer of personal meaning to the visit.

Stupa of Nirvana
One of the eight white-washed stupas nestled in its lush gardens is the Stupa of Nirvana, commemorating the Buddha’s final passing into Nirvana.

This stupa is modeled after the original built in Vaishali, India, where the Buddha, at the age of 80, accepted his approaching death and entered Mahaparinirvana—a state beyond suffering, rebirth, and worldly existence. The stupa at Kharbandi was constructed by the Royal Grandmother, Ashi Phuntsho Choden, in 1967, as part of her vision to encapsulate the eight great events of the Buddha’s life in one sacred space.
Architecturally, the Stupa of Nirvana is simple yet profound. It features a rounded dome atop a square base, symbolizing the Buddha’s serene departure and the dissolution of the five aggregates—form, sensation, perception, mental formations, and consciousness. The stupa’s quiet presence invites reflection on impermanence and the ultimate liberation that lies beyond worldly attachments. It is often flanked by prayer wheels and colorful flags, which flutter in the subtropical breeze, adding a sense of movement to the stillness it represents.
Symbolically, this stupa embodies the culmination of the spiritual path. While other stupas celebrate enlightenment, teaching, or miracles, the Stupa of Nirvana reminds practitioners of the transcendent peace that comes with complete release from samsara. It encourages visitors to contemplate the nature of death not as an end, but as a gateway to timeless awareness. Pilgrims often circumambulate the stupa while reciting mantras, generating merit and deepening their connection to the Buddha’s final teaching: that liberation is possible for all who walk the path with sincerity.

Panorama of the northwest corner of the monastery

Garuda head on the corner of the monastery roof
In Vajrayana Buddhist architecture, the Garuda head perched on the corner of a monastery roof is far more than decorative—it’s a potent symbol of wisdom, protection, and transcendence.

The Garuda, a mythical bird-like creature with human features, is one of the Four Dignities in Tibetan Buddhism, representing the expansive clarity of wisdom. Positioned high above, the Garuda surveys the world with piercing awareness, reminding practitioners of the need to rise above ignorance and see reality with unobstructed insight.
At Kharbandi Monastery in Phuentsholing, the Garuda head serves as a spiritual sentinel. Facing outward from the roof’s edge, it is believed to ward off negative energies and protect the sacred space from unseen forces. This placement is intentional: the corners of a roof are liminal zones, where the structure meets the sky—symbolizing the boundary between the earthly and the divine. The Garuda’s fierce expression and outstretched beak often clutching a serpent evoke its mythic role in subduing nagas, which in Buddhist lore represent hidden fears, poisons, and spiritual obstacles.
Spiritually, the Garuda’s presence at Kharbandi Monastery reinforces the transformative journey that begins at the entrance gate and culminates in the inner sanctum. As visitors ascend the hill and approach the temple, the Garuda overhead signals a call to awaken—to shed attachments and soar into the vastness of enlightened awareness. Its elevated position mirrors the aspirational nature of Buddhist practice: to rise above duality and embrace the boundless sky of mind.
In Bhutanese tradition, the Garuda is also known as Khyung, and its image is deeply woven into local rituals and iconography. At Kharbandi, where couples come seeking fertility blessings and pilgrims pause for reflection, the Garuda head quietly affirms the monastery’s role as a place of spiritual renewal and protection. It is a guardian of the dharma and a reminder that wisdom, once awakened, can lift us beyond the confines of suffering into the freedom of the sky.