Perched on a quiet hilltop in Gangtok, Sikkim, the Do-drul Chorten is one of
the most revered and visually iconic stupas in the region.
Built in 1945 by Trulshik Rinpoche, a prominent lama of the Nyingma school of
Tibetan Buddhism, the stupa was constructed to dispel negative energies and
protect the land from malevolent spirits. According to local lore, the site
was once considered haunted, prompting the young Chogyal of Sikkim to invite
Trulshik Rinpoche from Tibet to consecrate the area. The result was a powerful
spiritual monument that continues to draw pilgrims and visitors seeking peace,
blessings, and insight.
Architecturally, the Do-drul Chorten follows the classic Tibetan stupa design:
a whitewashed dome rising from a square base, crowned with a golden spire of
thirteen rings and a parasol finial. Surrounding the main stupa are 108 Mani
Lhakor, or prayer wheels, inscribed with the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum.
Devotees spin these wheels clockwise while circumambulating the stupa, a
ritual believed to purify karma and accumulate merit. The number 108 holds
deep spiritual significance in Buddhism, symbolizing the delusions to be
overcome on the path to enlightenment.
Inside the stupa lies a complete Dorjee Phurba mandala set, volumes of the
Kangyur (canonical Tibetan Buddhist scriptures), and long rolls of mantras
(zung), all placed by Trulshik Rinpoche to ensure the stupa’s spiritual
potency. Adjacent to the Chorten is a monastic college and shrine housing
large statues of Padmasambhava and his manifestation, Guru Snang – Sid Zilzon,
reinforcing the site’s connection to tantric Buddhist traditions. The complex
also includes smaller satellite stupas and a Dharma preaching center that
accommodates around 700 monks, making it a vibrant hub of religious learning
and practice.
Located just 500 meters above the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology, the Do-drul
Chorten is easily accessible yet feels worlds away in its tranquil ambiance.
Visitors often describe a palpable sense of serenity as they ascend the steep
path to the stupa, greeted by fluttering prayer flags and the soft hum of
chanting. Whether you're a spiritual seeker, a history enthusiast, or simply
drawn to the mystique of Himalayan culture, the Do-drul Chorten offers a
profound and unforgettable experience.
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Ascending towards Do-drul Chorten
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Young monks break for coffee
Adjacent to the revered Do-drul
Chorten in Gangtok, Sikkim, lies a vibrant monastery for young monks,
often referred to as the Chorten Lakhang and Guru Lakhang complex.
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This monastic establishment serves as a training and spiritual center
for novice lamas, primarily from the Nyingma school of Tibetan
Buddhism. The monastery is part of a larger religious precinct that
includes the stupa, prayer wheels, and sacred shrines, creating a
holistic environment for both learning and devotion. Its proximity to
the Do-drul Chorten allows young monks to engage directly with one of
the region’s most powerful spiritual monuments, enriching their
education with daily rituals and circumambulations.
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The monastery is known for its large statues of Padmasambhava, also
called Guru Rinpoche, and his wrathful manifestation Guru Snang – Sid
Zilzon. These towering images dominate the shrine hall and serve as
focal points for meditation and ceremonial practice. The presence of
these figures reinforces the tantric lineage of the Nyingma tradition,
emphasizing transformation, protection, and the realization of inner
wisdom. The young monks are trained not only in scriptural study but
also in ritual performance, chanting, and the symbolic meaning of
sacred art and iconography.
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Architecturally, the monastery reflects classic Tibetan design
elements—sloping roofs, intricately painted cornices, and carved
wooden windows—all of which contribute to its serene and contemplative
atmosphere. The buildings are arranged around a central courtyard
where monks gather for communal prayers and teachings. The monastery
also houses a Dharma preaching center, founded by Trulshik Rinpoche,
which accommodates approximately 700 monks. This center plays a vital
role in preserving and transmitting the spiritual heritage of the
region, offering a structured curriculum in Buddhist philosophy,
ethics, and ritual practice.
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For visitors, the monastery offers a glimpse into the living tradition
of Himalayan Buddhism. The sight of young monks in maroon robes,
spinning prayer wheels or reciting mantras, adds a dynamic and human
dimension to the sacred landscape. It’s a place where ancient
teachings are not just preserved but actively embodied by the next
generation. Whether you're drawn by curiosity, reverence, or a desire
to understand the spiritual rhythms of Sikkim, this monastery stands
as a testament to continuity, devotion, and the quiet power of
disciplined learning.
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Monk meditates while walking in the woods
For monks in
Sikkim, particularly those residing near the Do-drul Chorten, walking
meditation in the surrounding woods is a deeply transformative practice.
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Rooted in the teachings of the Buddha himself, this form of
meditation—known as cankama—is not merely a physical exercise but a
spiritual discipline that cultivates mindfulness, patience, and
clarity. The wooded paths near the stupa offer a serene and
distraction-free environment, allowing monks to synchronize their
breath with each step and remain fully present in the moment. This
rhythmic movement becomes a living prayer, a way to embody the Dharma
through motion.
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The forested terrain around Do-drul Chorten enhances the meditative
experience by immersing practitioners in nature’s quietude. The
rustling leaves, distant chants from the monastery, and the scent of
pine and incense create a sensory landscape that supports
contemplative awareness. Monks often walk slowly and deliberately,
focusing on the sensations of their feet touching the earth, the
movement of their limbs, and the arising and passing of thoughts. This
practice helps them internalize the impermanence of all phenomena and
fosters a deep connection with the natural world—a reflection of the
Buddhist principle of interdependence.
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Walking meditation also serves practical and physiological purposes.
According to the Cankama Sutta, it improves digestion, strengthens the
body for long journeys, and promotes long-lasting composure. For monks
who spend hours in seated meditation, walking provides a necessary
balance, preventing lethargy and sharpening concentration. The uphill
paths leading to the stupa and the adjacent monastery for young monks
become natural circuits for this practice, reinforcing discipline and
endurance while offering moments of solitude and insight.
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In the spiritual ecosystem of Gangtok, the act of walking mindfully
near Do-drul Chorten is more than a meditative technique—it’s a ritual
of devotion and purification. Each step taken in awareness is a step
toward liberation. For the monks, these wooded walks are not just part
of their daily routine but sacred journeys that echo the footsteps of
Padmasambhava and the lineage of enlightened masters who once walked
these hills. The forest becomes a silent teacher, and the path itself
a metaphor for the inner pilgrimage toward awakening.
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Ritual oven
Near the Do-drul Chorten, one can find a ritual
oven, or sangbum, used for burning incense and aromatic woods
such as juniper, sandalwood, and pine.
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These ovens are typically constructed from stone or metal and are
placed in open-air settings, allowing the fragrant smoke to rise
freely into the sky. The act of burning incense here is not merely
ceremonial—it’s a deeply spiritual offering meant to purify the
environment, invoke blessings, and honor the deities and protective
spirits believed to inhabit the surrounding mountains.
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In the context of mountain worship, these ritual ovens play a vital
role. Mountains in Himalayan Buddhism are considered sacred abodes of
gods, bodhisattvas, and elemental spirits. The smoke from the sangbum
is believed to carry prayers and offerings upward, bridging the
earthly and celestial realms. This practice is especially potent near
sites like Do-drul Chorten, which itself was built to dispel negative
energies. The aromatic smoke acts as a spiritual cleanser, sanctifying
the space and preparing it for meditation, prayer, and ritual
circumambulation.
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Monks and devotees often gather around these ovens during special
ceremonies, festivals, or personal pilgrimages. The burning of incense
is accompanied by chants, prostrations, and the spinning of prayer
wheels, creating a multisensory ritual that engages body, speech, and
mind. The scent of juniper and other sacred woods is said to calm the
mind and open the heart, making it easier to connect with the divine.
For young monks from the nearby monastery, tending to the sangbum is
also a form of training in mindfulness and devotion.
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Ultimately, the ritual oven near Do-drul Chorten is more than a
functional object—it’s a symbolic hearth where the community’s
spiritual aspirations are kindled and released into the mountain air.
It reflects the Himalayan belief that nature itself is sacred and
responsive, and that through offerings of fragrance and flame, humans
can harmonize with the unseen forces that shape both the landscape and
the soul.
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The Do-drul Chorten begins to appear at the end of the ascent
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The Do-drul Chorten is surrounded by prayer wheels on all sides
Being surrounded by 108 prayer wheels on all sides is a
profoundly symbolic and spiritually immersive experience. These wheels,
inscribed with the sacred mantra Om Mani Padme Hum, are not merely
decorative—they are considered physical embodiments of prayer.
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As devotees walk clockwise around the stupa, spinning each wheel, they
engage in a meditative ritual that is believed to purify karma,
accumulate merit, and invoke the blessings of Avalokiteshvara, the
Bodhisattva of compassion. The act of circumambulation, combined with
the tactile motion of turning the wheels, creates a rhythm that aligns
body, speech, and mind in spiritual harmony.
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The number 108 holds deep significance in Buddhist cosmology. It
represents the 108 defilements or obstacles to enlightenment, and by
spinning each wheel, practitioners symbolically overcome these
hindrances. The circular arrangement of the wheels around the stupa
reinforces the concept of samsara, the cycle of birth, death, and
rebirth, and offers a path toward liberation. For monks and pilgrims
alike, this spatial design transforms the stupa into a mandala of
movement, where each step and spin becomes a sacred offering.
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Being enveloped by prayer wheels also creates a sensory sanctuary. The
soft clatter of spinning wheels, the scent of incense from nearby
ritual ovens, and the fluttering of prayer flags overhead contribute
to a multisensory experience that deepens one’s connection to the
divine. It’s not uncommon to see young monks from the adjacent
monastery engaging in this practice as part of their daily discipline,
reinforcing the continuity of tradition and devotion. The physical act
of spinning the wheels is accessible to all, making it a democratic
form of worship that welcomes both seasoned practitioners and curious
visitors.
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Ultimately, the prayer wheels surrounding Do-drul Chorten serve as a
living perimeter of blessings. They transform the stupa from a static
monument into a dynamic spiritual engine, constantly radiating
compassion and wisdom into the world. For those who walk its path, the
experience is not just ritual—it’s a journey inward, a moment of
stillness in motion, and a reminder that enlightenment is both a
destination and a practice.
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Inside the stupa is a set of books and religious objects
Inside the Do-drul Chorten in Gangtok, Sikkim, lies a sacred
trove of religious artifacts that reflect the depth and richness of
Tibetan Buddhist tradition.
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At the heart of the stupa is a complete set of Dorjee Phurba, also
known as Vajra Kilaya—a wrathful tantric deity associated with the
removal of obstacles and spiritual purification. This mandala set is
believed to be highly potent, and its placement within the stupa was
intended to consecrate the site and protect it from negative energies.
The Dorjee Phurba is often invoked in rituals to dispel harmful
influences and reinforce the sanctity of the space.
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Equally significant is the presence of the Kangyur, a comprehensive
collection of canonical Tibetan Buddhist scriptures. These texts,
traditionally translated from Sanskrit into Tibetan, include the words
of the Buddha and form the foundation of monastic study and practice.
The Kangyur housed within the Do-drul Chorten was placed there by
Trulshik Rinpoche, the revered lama who built the stupa in 1945.
Alongside these scriptures are zung, or long rolls of mantras, which
are believed to radiate spiritual energy and blessings throughout the
structure.
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In addition to these core elements, the stupa contains other ritual
objects that enhance its spiritual potency. These may include sacred
relics, miniature statues of deities, and symbolic offerings sealed
within the central chamber. The combination of these items transforms
the Do-drul Chorten into a powerful spiritual engine—one that not only
commemorates the teachings of the Buddha but actively generates merit
and protection for those who visit and circumambulate it. The stupa’s
design ensures that these objects remain untouched and undisturbed,
preserving their sanctity for generations.
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The placement of these items was not arbitrary; it followed precise
ritual protocols to ensure the stupa’s efficacy as a protective and
meditative monument. For pilgrims and monks, the knowledge of what
lies within adds a layer of reverence to their visit. Though the
interior is not accessible to the public, the presence of these sacred
contents imbues the entire structure with a palpable sense of
spiritual gravity. It’s a reminder that beneath its serene exterior,
the Do-drul Chorten is a living repository of Himalayan wisdom and
devotion.
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Altar dedicated to Vajrakilaya
Vajrakilaya, also known as
Dorje Phurba, is a wrathful tantric deity revered across Tibetan
Buddhist traditions, especially within the Nyingma school, which is
prominent in Sikkim.
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He embodies the enlightened activity of all Buddhas and is invoked to
remove spiritual obstacles, purify negativity, and destroy forces
hostile to compassion. Vajrakilaya’s fierce iconography—often depicted
with three heads, six arms, and a ritual dagger
(phurba)—symbolizes his power to cut through delusion,
attachment, and aversion. Despite his wrathful appearance, he is
considered a compassionate protector, channeling intense energy to aid
practitioners on the path to enlightenment.
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The Do-drul Chorten in Gangtok is one of the most sacred sites in
Sikkim dedicated to Vajrakilaya. Built in 1945–46 by Trulshik
Rinpoche, a master of the Nyingma lineage, the stupa was constructed
to dispel malevolent spirits and consecrate the land. Inside the stupa
lies a complete Dorjee Phurba mandala set, along with volumes of the
Kangyur (canonical scriptures) and long rolls of mantras
(zung). These sacred objects were placed with precise ritual
protocols to ensure the stupa’s potency as a spiritual engine. The
presence of Vajrakilaya’s mandala within the stupa transforms it into
a powerful site for purification and protection, making it a focal
point for tantric practice in the region.
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Worship of Vajrakilaya at Do-drul Chorten is deeply experiential.
Devotees circumambulate the stupa while spinning 108 prayer wheels,
each inscribed with the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum, to accumulate
merit and invoke blessings. The surrounding monastery and Dharma
center, which houses over 700 monks, often conduct rituals and
teachings centered on Vajrakilaya’s practice. These include mantra
recitation, visualization, and offerings of incense at nearby ritual
ovens (sangbum), where aromatic woods are burned to honor
mountain spirits and cleanse the environment.
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In Sikkim’s spiritual landscape, Vajrakilaya represents the fusion of
wrathful compassion and transformative wisdom. His worship at Do-drul
Chorten is not only a means of personal purification but also a
communal act of safeguarding the region’s spiritual integrity. For
pilgrims and practitioners, the stupa offers a rare opportunity to
engage with one of Vajrayana Buddhism’s most potent deities in a
setting imbued with centuries of devotion and ritual power.
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Small statue of Dorjee Phurba (Vajrakilaya)
Inside the
rounded dome of the Do-drul Chorten in Gangtok, Sikkim, a small statue
rests within a niche framed by a torana, a traditional ornamental
gateway often seen in Buddhist architecture.
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This statue, though modest in scale, is considered the spiritual
nucleus of the stupa. It is believed to depict Dorjee Phurba
(Vajrakilaya), the wrathful tantric deity revered for his power to
eliminate obstacles and purify negativity. The
torana surrounding the niche is typically adorned with symbolic
motifs—flames, lotus petals, and mythical creatures—that signify
protection and the triumph of wisdom over ignorance.
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The statue’s placement within the niche is highly intentional. In
Vajrayana Buddhism, such niches are not merely architectural features
but sacred enclosures that house deities in their most potent form.
The figure of Vajrakilaya, often shown with fierce expression and
ritual implements, embodies the dynamic energy required to cut through
spiritual impediments. Its presence within the dome, sealed from
direct access yet visible through a small window, allows devotees to
engage in visual communion—a moment of reverence and connection with
the deity’s transformative power.
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This niche and its statue were ritually installed by Trulshik Rinpoche
during the stupa’s consecration in 1945. Alongside the statue, the
dome contains a complete Dorjee Phurba mandala set, volumes of the
Kangyur (canonical scriptures), and long rolls of mantras (zung), all
placed according to precise tantric protocols. The
torana itself serves as a symbolic threshold, marking the
transition from the mundane to the sacred. It invites reflection and
humility, reminding visitors that enlightenment is often hidden in
plain sight, waiting to be glimpsed through mindful attention.
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In the spiritual geography of Sikkim, this small statue within its
torana niche is more than an artifact—it is a living embodiment
of Vajrayana wisdom. It anchors the stupa’s protective energy and
offers pilgrims a focal point for devotion, even from a distance.
Whether viewed through the window or contemplated in silence, the
statue stands as a quiet sentinel of the Dharma, radiating blessings
into the surrounding hills and hearts.
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