Nestled in the serene Paro Valley of Bhutan, Kyichu Lhakhang is one of the
country’s oldest and most sacred temples.
Believed to have been built in the 7th century by Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo,
it is part of a network of 108 temples constructed to subdue a demoness whose
body was said to be sprawled across the Himalayas, obstructing the spread of
Buddhism. Kyichu Lhakhang is thought to pin down her left foot, while the
Jokhang Temple in Lhasa anchors her heart. This mystical origin story gives
the temple a deep spiritual resonance for Bhutanese Buddhists and pilgrims
from across the region.
Over the centuries, Kyichu Lhakhang has been expanded and restored by various
spiritual figures and Bhutanese royalty. In the 8th century, Guru
Padmasambhava visited the temple and is believed to have hidden sacred
treasures within its walls. Later, in the 20th century, Queen Kesang Choden
Wangchuck commissioned the construction of an adjacent Guru Lhakhang, further
enriching the site’s spiritual and architectural legacy. The temple complex
now includes ornate murals, prayer wheels, and statues of revered deities,
including a 7th-century image of Jowo Sakyamuni Buddha and a striking
Chenrezig figure with 1,000 arms and 11 heads.
Architecturally, Kyichu Lhakhang is a stunning example of traditional
Bhutanese design. Its golden-roofed shrine, intricately carved wooden floors,
and turquoise-inlaid altars evoke a sense of timeless devotion. The courtyard
is often filled with elderly pilgrims spinning prayer wheels and chanting
mantras, while two orange trees—said to bear fruit year-round—add a touch of
natural magic to the sacred space. The temple’s peaceful ambiance and rich
symbolism make it a haven for meditation, reflection, and spiritual
connection.
Visitors to Kyichu Lhakhang are welcomed daily between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m., and
there is no entry fee. Whether you're drawn by its ancient legends, its
artistic beauty, or its spiritual significance, Kyichu Lhakhang offers a
profound glimpse into Bhutan’s Buddhist heritage and the enduring power of
sacred spaces. It’s not just a monument—it’s a living testament to centuries
of faith, resilience, and reverence.
Entering the temple gate The entrance gate to a temple or
monastery is far more than a physical threshold—it is a symbolic passage
from the mundane world into a sacred realm.
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Architecturally and spiritually, it marks the transition from samsara
(the cycle of suffering and rebirth) to the path of liberation. Often
adorned with protective deities, auspicious symbols, and intricate
carvings, the gate serves as a guardian of the sacred space within. It
invites practitioners to leave behind worldly distractions and enter
with reverence, mindfulness, and intention. In many traditions,
passing through the gate is likened to entering a mandala—a sacred
diagram representing the universe—where each step inward is a movement
toward spiritual awakening.
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The gate also embodies the principle of purification. Before stepping
inside, devotees may perform rituals such as prostrations, mantra
recitations, or circumambulations to cleanse their body, speech, and
mind. This act of preparation reflects the Vajrayana emphasis on
transforming ordinary perception into enlightened awareness. The gate
thus becomes a liminal space—neither fully worldly nor fully
divine—where the practitioner begins to shift their consciousness and
align with the temple’s spiritual energy.
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At Kyichu Lhakhang one of the oldest and most revered temples in the
Himalayas, the entrance gate carries profound historical and spiritual
weight. Built in the 7th century by Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo, the
temple is said to pin down the left foot of a demoness whose body
sprawled across the Himalayas, obstructing the spread of Buddhism.
Entering through its gate is not just a physical act—it is a symbolic
reenactment of subduing ignorance and opening oneself to the Dharma.
The gate leads to a courtyard where two orange trees, believed to bear
fruit year-round, stand as living symbols of spiritual abundance and
timeless vitality.
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The gate at Kyichu Lhakhang also frames the experience of encountering
the sacred Jowo Sakyamuni statue within, a revered image of the
historical Buddha that radiates serenity and wisdom. As pilgrims pass
through, they are enveloped by centuries of devotion, ritual, and
myth. The gate becomes a portal into Bhutan’s spiritual heart—a place
where the past and present converge, and where each visitor is invited
to step into a deeper relationship with the sacred. It’s not just an
entrance—it’s an initiation.
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Temple seen from the entrance gate
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Panorama of the courtyard in front of the temple The
courtyard in front of Kyichu Lhakhang exudes a quiet reverence that
mirrors the temple’s ancient spiritual legacy.
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As one approaches the temple, the courtyard opens up like a sacred
threshold. But it’s the center of this courtyard that draws the eye
and stirs curiosity: a low mound of black stone slabs, carefully
arranged to conceal and protect ancient stone structures beneath.
These hidden relics are thought to be remnants of Bhutan’s earliest
Buddhist foundations, possibly dating back to the temple’s original
construction in the 7th century by Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo.
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Encircling this mound is a protective wooden wall, weathered by time
yet lovingly maintained. The wall serves not only as a physical
barrier but as a spiritual boundary, preserving the sanctity of the
structures within. On the side facing the temple, a small altar is
built into the wooden enclosure—modest yet meaningful. Here, pilgrims
and visitors place candles, butter lamps, and offerings, their
flickering flames casting a gentle glow on the aged wood. This quiet
ritual space invites reflection and reverence, linking the ancient
stones to the living faith of those who come to pay homage.
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Opposite the temple, near the far edge of the courtyard, stands a tall
flagpole bearing a long, flowing prayer flag. Towering above the
surrounding structures, the flag dances in the mountain breeze, its
colors vibrant against the sky. In Bhutanese tradition, such flags are
inscribed with sacred mantras and prayers, believed to carry blessings
across the land as they flutter. The placement of this flagpole—near
the ancient mound but facing away from the temple—suggests a symbolic
balance between past and present, between the grounded relics of
history and the soaring aspirations of spiritual devotion.
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Together, these elements—the black slab-covered mound, the wooden
enclosure with its candle-lit altar, and the towering prayer flag—form
a quiet constellation of sacred symbols within the courtyard. They
speak not only to the temple’s storied past but to the enduring
rituals that continue to breathe life into its stones. It’s a space
where history is not just preserved, but actively honored, one candle
and one prayer at a time.
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Panorama of the temple facade
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Windows and doors framed by intricately carved and painted wooden
borders In Bhutanese architecture, windows and doors framed by
intricately carved and painted wooden borders are more than decorative
elements—they are expressions of cultural identity, spiritual symbolism,
and artisanal mastery.
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These frames often feature vibrant floral motifs, auspicious symbols,
and mythical creatures, painted in traditional hues of red, gold,
blue, and green. The floral patterns, in particular, represent purity,
growth, and the blossoming of spiritual insight. Each motif is
carefully chosen to harmonize with the building’s purpose, whether
it’s a home, monastery, or temple, and the craftsmanship reflects
Bhutan’s deep reverence for beauty and meaning in everyday life.
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The wooden frames are typically constructed using traditional joinery
techniques, often without nails or screws, relying instead on
interlocking components that showcase the ingenuity of Bhutanese
carpentry. Artisans carve the frames with motifs such as lotus
flowers, clouds, and the endless knot—symbols that evoke Buddhist
teachings and cosmic harmony. These frames are then painted with
mineral-based pigments that withstand the region’s climate while
preserving their vividness for decades. The result is a fusion of
function and artistry: windows and doors that protect and ventilate,
while also inviting contemplation and reverence.
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At Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan’s oldest and most sacred temples,
the windows and doors exemplify this tradition at its most refined.
The temple’s small arched windows are framed with delicately carved
wood, painted in floral and symbolic patterns that echo the temple’s
spiritual purpose. These frames not only enhance the temple’s
aesthetic appeal but also serve as visual prayers—each petal and curve
a gesture of devotion. The doors, similarly adorned, mark the passage
into a sacred space, inviting visitors to leave behind worldly
concerns and enter a realm of tranquility and spiritual depth.
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The floral motifs at Kyichu Lhakhang are especially poignant given the
temple’s legendary origins and its role in subduing negative energies.
Just as the temple itself is said to pin down the left foot of a
demoness to allow Buddhism to flourish, the blooming patterns on its
windows and doors symbolize the blossoming of wisdom and compassion.
In this way, the architecture becomes a living mandala—an embodiment
of sacred geometry and spiritual intention—where even the smallest
details carry profound meaning.
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Temple entrance door The entrance door to a temple or
monastery is not merely a physical gateway—it is a profound symbol of
transition, purification, and spiritual readiness.
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Passing through it marks the movement from the ordinary world of
samsara into a consecrated space where the Dharma is practiced and
realized. The door often features intricate carvings, protective
deities, and auspicious symbols such as the eight auspicious signs
(Ashtamangala), each representing aspects of the Buddha’s teachings.
These elements serve both as guardians and guides, reminding
practitioners to enter with humility, mindfulness, and a heart open to
transformation.
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Spiritually, the entrance door represents the threshold between
ignorance and awakening. In Vajrayana, which emphasizes esoteric
practices and rapid paths to enlightenment, this threshold is
especially potent. Before entering, devotees may perform prostrations,
recite mantras, or engage in visualization practices to purify their
body, speech, and mind. The door thus becomes a ritual boundary—a
liminal space where the practitioner symbolically sheds worldly
attachments and prepares to engage with the sacred. It is also likened
to the gateway of a mandala, where each step inward corresponds to
deeper levels of spiritual realization.
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At Kyichu Lhakhang one of the oldest and most revered temples in the
Himalayas, the entrance door carries centuries of spiritual weight.
Believed to have been built in the 7th century to pin down the left
foot of a demoness obstructing the spread of Buddhism, the temple
itself is a geomantic anchor of sacred energy. The entrance door,
gilded and adorned with traditional Bhutanese motifs, invites pilgrims
into a space that has been blessed by Guru Padmasambhava and
generations of spiritual masters. It is said that the grooves in the
temple’s wooden floor—worn by centuries of prostrations—begin just
beyond this door, underscoring its role as a portal to devotion.
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Facing the entrance, one is greeted not only by the temple’s
architectural beauty but by its spiritual resonance. The door opens
into a courtyard where prayer wheels spin and orange trees bloom
year-round—symbols of continuous spiritual vitality. Just beyond lies
the statue of Jowo Sakyamuni, radiating serenity and wisdom. In this
way, the entrance door at Kyichu Lhakhang is not just a passage—it is
an initiation into Bhutan’s living Buddhist heritage, a moment where
myth, ritual, and personal intention converge.
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Stupas and prayer wheels at the entrance to the temple's inner
courtyard Stupas and prayer wheels are not merely architectural or ritual
objects—they are profound embodiments of the path to enlightenment.
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A stupa, often called a chorten in Bhutan, symbolizes the Buddha’s
enlightened mind and the entire structure is a mandala in three
dimensions. Its base represents the earth element and moral
foundation, the dome symbolizes water and the vastness of compassion,
the spire embodies fire and spiritual energy, and the parasol and
jewel at the top signify air, space, and ultimate wisdom.
Circumambulating a stupa is a meditative act of purification and
merit-making, aligning body, speech, and mind with the Dharma.
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Prayer wheels, meanwhile, are dynamic expressions of mantra practice.
Each wheel contains thousands—sometimes millions—of scrolls printed
with sacred mantras, most commonly Om Mani Padme Hum, the
mantra of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. Spinning the
wheel clockwise is believed to release the blessings of the mantras
into the world, multiplying their spiritual benefit. This practice is
especially potent in Vajrayana, where visualization, sound, and
movement are integrated to accelerate spiritual transformation. The
act of turning a prayer wheel is likened to reciting the mantra
countless times, making it accessible even to those who cannot read or
chant.
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At Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan’s oldest and most sacred temples,
stupas and prayer wheels are woven seamlessly into the spiritual
landscape. The temple’s courtyard is encircled by rows of prayer
wheels, which devotees spin as they circumambulate the temple, often
while softly chanting or in silent contemplation. These wheels are
inscribed with mantras in Lenza script and are said to radiate
blessings to all beings. Nearby, stupas of various styles—including
commemorative chortens—stand as silent sentinels of the Dharma, each
representing key events in the Buddha’s life or aspects of enlightened
activity. Their presence reinforces the temple’s role as a geomantic
anchor and a gateway to awakening.
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Together, these sacred forms at Kyichu Lhakhang create a living
mandala—a field of spiritual energy where every gesture, every turn of
the wheel, and every step around a stupa becomes an offering. They
invite practitioners into a rhythm of devotion that transcends words,
linking the ancient with the present, and the individual with the
universal. In this way, Kyichu Lhakhang is not just a place of
worship—it is a spiritual engine, quietly turning the wheel of
compassion for Bhutan and beyond.
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Panorama of the temple's inner courtyard The inner courtyard
of Kyichu Lhakhang is a serene and spiritually charged space that
bridges the ancient sanctity of the temple with the quiet rhythms of
daily devotion.
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As one passes through the gilded entrance door, the courtyard opens
into a tranquil enclosure framed by prayer wheels and cloisters. It is
here that pilgrims and monks alike engage in circumambulation,
spinning the wheels in silent prayer, their footsteps echoing on the
worn wooden floor—grooved by centuries of prostrations. The courtyard
is not only a physical center of the temple but also a symbolic heart,
where the sacred and the natural coexist in quiet harmony.
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Among the most cherished features of this courtyard are two orange
trees that have become legendary in Bhutanese lore. These trees are
believed to bear fruit throughout the year, defying seasonal cycles
and embodying the temple’s spiritual vitality. Their presence is seen
as a sign of Kyichu Lhakhang’s blessings and divine energy, and many
visitors pause beneath their branches to reflect or offer prayers. The
trees are not only botanical anomalies but spiritual symbols—living
testaments to the temple’s enduring grace and the benevolence of the
deities enshrined within.
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The courtyard also houses a mural of King Gesar of Ling, a Tibetan
warrior-king whose epic tale is said to be the longest poem in the
world. This artwork, positioned near the entrance, adds a mythic
dimension to the space, reminding visitors of the temple’s deep
cultural and spiritual roots. Nearby, the statue of Jowo
Sakyamuni—believed to date back to the 7th century—resides within the
inner sanctum, radiating a quiet majesty that draws pilgrims from
across Bhutan and beyond.
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Together, the orange trees, prayer wheels, and sacred relics transform
the courtyard into a living mandala—a space where nature, devotion,
and history converge. It is a place of quiet miracles, where the
ordinary becomes extraordinary, and where each breath taken beneath
the fruit-laden branches feels like a blessing. In the stillness of
Kyichu Lhakhang’s courtyard, one senses not only the weight of
centuries but the gentle pulse of timeless compassion.
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Portico giving access to the Guru Temple (right) and the Old Jowo
Temple (left) Kyichu Lhakhang is a sacred site that embodies both ancient
spiritual legacy and modern devotion.
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The original temple, known as the Old Jowo Temple, was built in the
7th century by Tibetan Emperor Songtsen Gampo. It is one of the 108
geomantic temples he commissioned to subdue a demoness believed to be
obstructing the spread of Buddhism across the Himalayas. Kyichu
Lhakhang was strategically placed to pin down her left foot, making it
a vital spiritual anchor. The temple houses the revered statue of Jowo
Sakyamuni, and its sanctum has been blessed by Padmasambhava and other
great masters over the centuries.
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The Old Jowo Temple is considered one of Bhutan’s oldest and most
sacred structures. Over time, it has undergone restorations and
expansions, yet it retains its original spiritual potency. Its wooden
floors are worn smooth by generations of prostrating pilgrims, and its
walls are adorned with murals and relics that reflect Bhutan’s deep
Buddhist heritage. The temple’s architecture and layout follow
traditional Himalayan styles, with a central shrine, prayer wheels,
and stupas that invite circumambulation and contemplation.
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In 1971, Queen Kesang Choden Wangchuck added a new dimension to Kyichu
Lhakhang’s spiritual landscape by commissioning the construction of
the Guru Temple. Built adjacent to the Old Jowo Temple, this newer
structure was consecrated by the revered master Dilgo Khyentse
Rinpoche. The Guru Temple houses a striking five-meter statue of Guru
Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), along with representations of Kurukulla (Red
Tara) and other tantric deities. It was created to host annual rites
of great accomplishment for Vajrasattva, Palchen Heruka, and
Vajrakilaya, and continues to serve as a center for esoteric Vajrayana
practices.
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Together, the Old Jowo Temple and the Guru Temple form a spiritual
continuum—one rooted in ancient geomancy and the other in contemporary
devotion. Their coexistence within Kyichu Lhakhang reflects Bhutan’s
reverence for tradition while embracing the evolving expressions of
faith. Pilgrims visiting the site often move seamlessly between the
two temples, experiencing a journey that spans centuries of Buddhist
wisdom and blessings.
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Panorama of the temple's inner courtyard seen from the portico
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Another panorama of the temple's inner courtyard seen from the
entrance door
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Panorama of the temple facade seen from the south
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Southwest side of the circumambulation path around the temple
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Pavilion with large prayer wheels Large prayer wheels—often
called mani dungkhor—are powerful instruments of devotion and
spiritual transformation.
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These cylindrical wheels, inscribed with sacred mantras such as
Om Mani Padme Hum, are believed to embody the teachings of the
Buddha in motion. Spinning them clockwise is considered equivalent to
reciting the mantras aloud, releasing their blessings into the world
and generating merit for the practitioner. The act of turning the
wheel symbolizes the turning of the Dharma—the path toward
enlightenment—and reflects the cyclical nature of existence, from
samsara to liberation.
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Spiritually, large prayer wheels serve as accessible gateways to
practice for all beings, including those who may not be literate or
able to chant. Their presence near temples and monasteries invites
both laypeople and monks to engage in a tactile form of meditation,
aligning body, speech, and mind with the Dharma. The repetitive motion
of spinning the wheel cultivates mindfulness and compassion, while the
internal scrolls—often containing thousands or even millions of
mantras—amplify the spiritual potency of each revolution. In
Vajrayana, where visualization and ritual are central, the prayer
wheel becomes a living mandala, radiating blessings in all directions.
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At Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan’s oldest and most sacred temples,
the large prayer wheels are woven seamlessly into the temple’s
spiritual landscape. Positioned near the entrance and along the
courtyard, they are spun by pilgrims as they circumambulate the
temple, often in quiet reverence or soft chant. These wheels are
inscribed in Lenza script and are said to carry the blessings of
Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. Their rhythmic turning
echoes the centuries of devotion that have shaped Kyichu Lhakhang,
reinforcing its role as a geomantic anchor and a sanctuary of
spiritual vitality.
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The prayer wheels at Kyichu Lhakhang are not just ritual objects—they
are spiritual engines. Each spin is a gesture of offering, a movement
of intention, and a ripple of compassion sent into the world. They
connect the ancient with the present, the visible with the invisible,
and the individual with the universal. In their quiet revolutions,
they embody the essence of Vajrayana: transformation through sacred
action, and awakening through devotion.
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Panorama of the pavilion with large prayer wheels
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Northwest side of the circumambulation path around the temple
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Panorama of the north side of the temple seen from the northwest
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Circular pavilion on the north side of the temple
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Panorama of the north side of the temple seen from the northeast
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