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Paro Festival - Furling of the Great Thongdrel, Bhutan

On the fifth and final day of the Paro Tshechu, as the golden hues of morning fade into full daylight, the Great Thongdrel—a magnificent silk applique several stories tall—is gently furling, bringing a sacred chapter of the festival to a quiet close.

This revered thangka, depicting Guru Padmasambhava, is unfurled only once a year before sunrise and is believed to cleanse sins merely by being seen. After a few awe-filled hours of display, the thongdrel is reverently rolled back up—a ritual not as public or dramatic as its unveiling, but equally imbued with spiritual gravity.

The act of furling the thongdrel is undertaken by a select group of monks and caretakers trained in handling such sacred iconography. Their movements are deliberate and meditative, synchronized as if guided by unseen chants. With ceremonial grace, they fold the fabric slowly, ensuring that no part is damaged or dishonored. The scroll, towering and delicate, is heavy with significance and must be rolled in such a way that its divine imagery remains preserved for future generations. Silence often accompanies the ritual, as if the air itself honors the moment.

Though less celebrated than the unfurling, the furling marks a symbolic return—an inward gesture following the outward blessing of the morning. It reflects Bhutanese values of impermanence and reverence: beauty shown, then tucked away; power shared, then held in safekeeping. For many, the final glimpses of the thongdrel as it disappears into its protective wrapping offer a quiet, contemplative farewell—an invitation to carry the vision inward.

Stored with great care inside the Paro Dzong, the thongdrel will rest in darkness for another year. But its brief encounter with light and devotion lives on in those who witnessed it. In the act of furling, there is no loss—only the continuation of spiritual cycles, like petals closing with the dusk to bloom again with spring.

The scarf (kata) is removed before the Great Thongdrel is furled


Fruit that was on the altar being distributed to the spectators
As the Great Thongdrel begins its solemn furling, another quiet yet deeply symbolic ritual unfolds: the distribution of fruit from the altar to the gathered spectators.

  • These offerings, often simple fruits like oranges, bananas, or apples, are not merely refreshments—they are imbued with spiritual meaning. Having rested on the altar throughout the festival, the fruit is considered blessed by the presence of sacred dances, prayers, and the thongdrel itself. When distributed, it becomes a tangible extension of the blessings received during the festival, a way for devotees to carry a piece of the divine into their daily lives.
  • The timing of this distribution—coinciding with the rolling of the thongdrel—is no accident. As the sacred scroll is carefully furled and returned to its resting place, the fruit is passed from altar to hand, symbolizing the transference of spiritual merit. The thongdrel, which confers liberation by sight, has fulfilled its purpose for the year. The fruit, now sanctified, becomes a vessel of that same grace, allowing the blessings to ripple outward beyond the courtyard of Paro Dzong. It’s a moment of quiet generosity, where the sacred is shared in the most humble form.
  • This dual ritual also reflects Bhutanese values of impermanence and continuity. The thongdrel disappears from view, reminding all that spiritual experiences are fleeting. Yet the fruit, distributed and consumed, becomes part of the body—a metaphor for internalizing the teachings and blessings of Guru Rinpoche. It’s a gentle nudge toward mindfulness: that what is seen must also be remembered, and what is received must be honored through action and intention.
  • In this way, the final morning of Paro Tshechu becomes a layered farewell. The furling of the thongdrel signals the end of the visual spectacle, while the fruit distribution offers a quiet continuation of its spiritual impact. It’s not just the closing of a festival—it’s the beginning of a personal journey, nourished by sacred sight and sustained by sacred taste.

The Great Thongdrel is furled at the base

At the top, it is gently lowered
The rolling of the Great Thongdrel is not only a spiritual climax but also a logistical ballet requiring precise coordination between two teams—those stationed at the top of the structure and those at the base.

  • The thongdrel, a massive silk appliqué often spanning several stories, must be lowered with utmost care to prevent damage to its sacred fabric and intricate embroidery. The men at the top, responsible for gradually releasing the scroll, must synchronize their movements with the team below, who begin the delicate process of furling it as it descends.
  • This coordination is crucial because any mismatch in timing could lead to slack or tension in the fabric, risking tears or misalignment. The men at the top must maintain a steady, controlled pace, often guided by verbal cues or hand signals from below. Meanwhile, the team on the ground must be equally attentive, adjusting their furling rhythm to match the descent. Their task is not merely mechanical—it’s reverent. Each fold must be precise, preserving the sanctity and structure of the thongdrel for its next unveiling.
  • The choreography between these two groups reflects a deeper symbolism: the unity of purpose in preserving and honoring Bhutan’s spiritual heritage. It’s a moment where physical labor becomes an offering, and teamwork becomes a ritual. The men at the top, often monks or trained custodians, embody the role of guardians of the sacred, while those below act as stewards of continuity, ensuring the thongdrel is returned to its resting place with dignity.
  • In this way, the rolling of the Great Thongdrel is not just a technical feat—it’s a spiritual handoff. The seamless coordination between top and bottom mirrors the harmony between heaven and earth, between divine blessing and human devotion. It’s a quiet testament to the care, respect, and collective effort that sustains Bhutan’s most revered traditions.


Padmasambhava is progressively disappearing
As the Great Thongdrel begins its slow furling on the final morning of the Paro Tshechu, a hush falls over the courtyard of Rinpung Dzong.

  • Pilgrims, many of whom have traveled days across rugged terrain, stand in quiet reverence as the towering image of Guru Padmasambhava—radiant in silks and gold thread—gradually disappears from view. The emotion is palpable: a mix of awe, gratitude, and a gentle sorrow. For many, this fleeting glimpse of the sacred is the spiritual high point of the year, believed to cleanse sins and bestow blessings simply by sight. As the image recedes, so too does the moment of divine connection, leaving behind a sense of longing and reflection.
  • The act of furling is not abrupt—it is deliberate, ceremonial, and deeply symbolic. Each fold of the thongdrel feels like a curtain being drawn on a sacred play, and the pilgrims respond with bowed heads and folded hands. Some weep quietly, not out of despair, but from the overwhelming beauty and grace of the experience. Others whisper prayers, hoping to carry the blessings into their lives beyond the festival. The gradual disappearance of Padmasambhava’s image is a reminder of impermanence—a core tenet of Buddhist philosophy—and it evokes a bittersweet awareness that all things, even the most divine, must pass.
  • Yet within this emotional ebb lies a profound sense of fulfillment. To witness the thongdrel, even for a moment, is considered a rare spiritual privilege. As it is furled and returned to its sacred chamber, pilgrims feel a quiet joy, knowing they were part of something timeless. The memory of the image lingers in their hearts, like a seed of enlightenment planted through sight. It’s not just the visual grandeur that moves them—it’s the belief that they have touched the edge of the sacred, and that this touch will ripple through their lives in unseen ways.
  • In the end, the emotion is layered: reverence, melancholy, hope, and devotion all woven together like the threads of the thongdrel itself. The pilgrims full—carry with them the invisible blessings of Padmasambhava, and the quiet strength of a faith renewed.

The spectators watch reverently and silently

The long bundle with the Great Thongdrel is placed on the shoulders


Padmasambhava is leaving, attention wavers

In procession, the men leave with the Great Thongdrel's bundle
As the final rays of dawn stretch across the Paro Valley, the men entrusted with carrying the bundled Great Thongdrel begin their solemn procession from the exhibition ground back to the sacred confines of Rinpung Dzong.

  • The weight they bear is not merely physical—it is spiritual, cultural, and deeply emotional. On their shoulders rests a sacred tapestry that has conferred blessings upon thousands that morning, and with each step, they feel the gravity of their role in preserving Bhutan’s most revered tradition. There is pride in their posture, but also humility, knowing they are guardians of something far greater than themselves.
  • The procession is quiet, reverent. The men move in unison, their faces marked by concentration and devotion. Some have carried the thongdrel for years, and yet each time feels new—charged with the energy of the crowd, the chants still echoing in the air, and the lingering presence of Guru Padmasambhava’s image. As the bundle shifts slightly with their movement, they are reminded of its fragility and sanctity. Emotion wells up not from spectacle, but from service: the honor of being chosen, the responsibility of safeguarding the sacred, and the silent connection to generations who have walked this path before.
  • There is also a sense of farewell. The thongdrel, once towering and radiant, is now folded and hidden from view. The men carrying it are the last to touch it before it returns to its year-long slumber. This moment is intimate—almost private—despite the watching eyes. Some carriers glance back at the courtyard, at the pilgrims still lingering, and feel a quiet ache. The festival is ending, and with it, the shared spiritual crescendo that binds the community. Their steps are measured, not just by duty, but by emotion: reverence, nostalgia, and a deep-rooted love for their heritage.
  • By the time the bundle reaches its resting place, the men are physically tired but spiritually full. They have completed a sacred circuit, one that began with the unfurling of liberation and ends with the careful return of grace. In their hearts, they carry the weight of the thongdrel not as a burden, but as a blessing—a reminder that devotion is not only in prayer or sight, but in the quiet strength of service.

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Location: CCGF+Q54, Paro, Bhutan