Tashi Lhunpo Monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, China

Tashi Lhunpo Monastery, nestled in the heart of Shigatse, Tibet’s second-largest city, stands as a monumental center of Tibetan Buddhism and the traditional seat of the Panchen Lama—the second-highest spiritual authority in the Gelugpa lineage after the Dalai Lama.

Founded in 1447 by Gedun Drub, the First Dalai Lama and a disciple of Je Tsongkhapa, the monastery quickly rose to prominence as a hub of learning, ritual, and spiritual authority. Its name, meaning “Heap of Glory” or “All Fortune and Happiness Gathered Here,” reflects its revered status among Tibetan Buddhists. Over the centuries, successive Panchen Lamas expanded its influence, transforming it into one of the Great Six Gelugpa monasteries and a beacon of Mahayana Buddhist philosophy.

The relationship between the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama, both spiritually and politically, has been deeply intertwined with Tashi Lhunpo’s history. This bond, often described in Tibetan as akin to the sun and moon in the sky, began in earnest when the Fourth Panchen Lama became the spiritual teacher of the Fourth Dalai Lama in the 17th century. Each Lama traditionally plays a role in recognizing the reincarnation of the other, reinforcing a lineage of mutual respect and spiritual continuity. Tashi Lhunpo thus became not only a monastic institution but also a symbol of Tibetan unity and resilience, especially during times of political upheaval. Its monks hailed from across Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, India, and China, creating a vibrant and diverse spiritual community.

Despite its grandeur, Tashi Lhunpo suffered greatly during the Cultural Revolution, when many of its buildings were destroyed and sacred relics desecrated. Yet, the monastery endured. In 1985, the 10th Panchen Lama initiated the reconstruction of a stupa to house the salvaged remains of his predecessors, a gesture of reverence and restoration completed just days before his death in 1989. Today, while much of the original structure has been rebuilt, the monastery continues to serve as a vital spiritual center. A counterpart was also established in exile in Bylakuppe, South India, ensuring the continuity of its teachings and traditions beyond Tibet’s borders.

Square in front of the main gate of the monastery

Map of the monastery

White lions, tigers and Garuda inside the entrance gate
The entrance gate to a Vajrayana Buddhist temple or monastery is far more than a threshold—it is a ritual passage, a symbolic crossing from the profane to the sacred.

Architecturally, it marks the boundary between the outer world of distraction and the inner world of dharma, inviting the practitioner to leave behind habitual thought and enter a space consecrated to transformation. In Vajrayana, where symbolism is dense and layered, the gate often functions as the first gesture of initiation: a liminal space where one prepares to encounter the mandala of awakened mind. Its structure, orientation, and adornments are designed to harmonize the energies of the site, offering protection, purification, and auspiciousness to all who pass through.
At Tashi Lhunpo Monastery in Shigatse, the entrance gate is both imposing and intimate, a portal carved into centuries of devotion. Just inside, two vivid paintings greet the pilgrim—each a symbolic tableau drawn from the deep reservoir of Tibetan iconography. On one side, three white lions stand atop a snowy mountain peak, embodying purity, fearlessness, and the triumphant roar of dharma. Opposite them, two tigers rest in a bamboo forest, symbols of strength, alertness, and the disciplined power of meditative concentration. Above, a Garuda soars through the sky, clutching three serpents in its talons and beak—an image of liberation from the poisons of ignorance, attachment, and aversion. Nearby, a dragon coils among the clouds, holding a radiant jewel: the wish-fulfilling gem of bodhicitta, the awakened heart-mind.
Together, these images form a protective and initiatory mandala, greeting the pilgrim not with abstraction but with mythic immediacy. They are guardians and guides, each representing a facet of the path—courage, discipline, transcendence, and compassion. To pass beneath them is to enter a world where every gesture, every symbol, is charged with spiritual intent. At Tashi Lhunpo, this gate is not merely an architectural feature but a living threshold, where the outer winds of Shigatse give way to the inner breath of practice. It reminds the pilgrim that the journey begins not in distant realms, but in the moment of crossing—in the choice to step forward, eyes open, heart ready.

Panorama of the main courtyard of the monastery seen from south

Going up towards the courtyard of the stupas

Pilgrims circumambulating the stupas in the stupa courtyard
Circumambulating stupas—walking clockwise around these sacred structures—is a deeply symbolic act in Tibetan Buddhism, embodying the path of awakening through physical movement.

The stupa itself represents the enlightened mind of the Buddha, and each architectural element corresponds to aspects of the spiritual journey: the base signifies grounded ethics, the dome reflects meditative absorption, and the spire points toward wisdom and liberation. As pilgrims circle the stupa, often reciting mantras or turning prayer wheels, they enact a ritual of purification and merit-making. The clockwise motion mirrors the sun’s path and the natural order of the cosmos, aligning the practitioner with the rhythm of dharma and the unfolding of enlightened qualities.
At Tashi Lhunpo Monastery in Shigatse, this practice takes on heightened significance. The monastery, founded by the First Dalai Lama and seat of the Panchen Lamas—manifestations of Amitabha Buddha—is a spiritual epicenter where the act of circumambulation becomes a gesture of devotion to both lineage and light. Pilgrims follow the lingkhor, the sacred path encircling the monastery, passing prayer walls, stupas, and the towering Choekyi Gyaltsen Reliquary Stupa, which houses the remains of revered Panchen Lamas. This stupa, adorned with gold and precious stones, radiates the symbolism of purity and transcendence. Circumambulating it is not merely homage to the deceased masters but a living connection to their wisdom, a way of participating in their legacy and invoking their blessings.
Spiritually, the act is both outer and inner pilgrimage. As the feet trace the sacred perimeter, the heart turns inward, mirroring the circular motion with cycles of reflection, aspiration, and surrender. At Tashi Lhunpo, where history and sanctity converge, the pilgrim is enveloped by centuries of prayer, ritual, and resilience. The stupa courtyard becomes a mandala of transformation, where each step dissolves obscuration and each breath draws the practitioner closer to the luminous center of being. In this way, circumambulation is not only a devotional act but a ritual enactment of the path to enlightenment—embodied, communal, and timeless.

Entering the Maitreya Temple
The Maitreya Temple at Tashi Lhunpo Monastery in Shigatse, Tibet, is a monumental sanctuary dedicated to Jampa—the Buddha of the Future—whose presence embodies hope, compassion, and the promise of eventual liberation for all beings.

Towering at 26.2 meters, the statue of Maitreya within the temple is one of the largest gilded images in the world, seated upon a 3.5-meter lotus throne and gazing serenely over the monastery complex. This immense figure, adorned with over 1,400 precious ornaments including pearls, diamonds, and coral, was crafted by 110 artisans over four years, a feat of devotion and artistry that reflects both the grandeur of Tibetan Buddhist iconography and the spiritual aspiration toward future awakening.
Symbolically, Maitreya represents the unfolding of time and the continuity of the dharma beyond the present age. His temple within Tashi Lhunpo is not merely a shrine but a prophetic space—a reminder that even in eras of decline, the seed of enlightenment remains intact, awaiting its full flowering. The temple’s architecture and sacred art evoke a mandala of cosmic order, with Maitreya at its center as the axis of future possibility. Pilgrims who enter this space do so not only to venerate a future Buddha but to align themselves with the qualities he embodies: loving-kindness, patience, and the readiness to serve others in times of spiritual need.
Within the broader context of Tashi Lhunpo Monastery—seat of the Panchen Lamas and a bastion of Gelugpa scholarship—the Maitreya Temple serves as a spiritual counterpoint to the lineage of realized masters. While the reliquary stupas honor the past, the Maitreya Temple opens toward the future, creating a ritual and symbolic arc that spans generations. It invites practitioners to contemplate their role in the transmission of wisdom, to become vessels of continuity in a world of impermanence. In this way, the temple is not only a place of worship but a living prophecy, inscribed in gold and silence, calling each visitor to become a bearer of light in the age to come.

Maitreya Statue
The Maitreya Statue at Tashi Lhunpo Monastery in Shigatse, Tibet, is a towering embodiment of spiritual promise and artistic mastery.

Standing at 26.2 meters high and seated upon a 3.5-meter lotus throne, this gilded figure of the Future Buddha gazes serenely over the monastery, radiating a presence that is both majestic and compassionate. Crafted by 110 artisans over four years, the statue is adorned with over 1,400 precious ornaments—pearls, diamonds, corals—each a token of devotion and reverence. Its sheer scale and intricate detailing make it one of the largest and most elaborate representations of Maitreya in the world, blending traditional Tibetan techniques with modern craftsmanship to create a timeless icon of faith.
Symbolically, Maitreya represents the Buddha yet to come—the one who will appear when the teachings of Gautama Buddha have faded, to renew the dharma and guide beings toward liberation. The statue’s serene expression and richly adorned robes evoke qualities of loving-kindness, patience, and benevolence, inviting pilgrims to contemplate the future of spiritual awakening and their own role in its unfolding. The use of copper and gold leaf not only ensures durability but also reflects the luminosity of enlightened mind, making the statue a beacon of hope in a world marked by impermanence and suffering.
Situated within the sacred precincts of Tashi Lhunpo Monastery—the traditional seat of the Panchen Lamas—the Maitreya Statue serves as a spiritual counterbalance to the reliquary stupas of past masters. While the stupas honor the lineage and memory of realized beings, the statue opens toward the future, offering a vision of continuity and renewal. It stands not only as a devotional object but as a living prophecy, reminding all who behold it that the path of awakening is never lost, only awaiting its next flowering. In this way, the statue becomes a mandala of time, linking past, present, and future in the golden stillness of Maitreya’s gaze.
Photographs by Dennis G. Jarvis, distributed under a CC-BY 2.0 license.

Walking to the Tenth Panchen Lama's Tomb Stupa

Entering the Tenth Panchen Lama's Tomb Stupa

Tenth Panchen Lama's Tomb Stupa
The Tomb Stupa of the Tenth Panchen Lama at Tashi Lhunpo Monastery stands as a solemn and radiant tribute to one of Tibet’s most courageous and complex spiritual figures.

Constructed after his death in 1989, the stupa was built to replace the silver reliquary stupas of previous Panchen Lamas that had been destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. This act of restoration was itself deeply symbolic—a gesture of resilience and reverence, reclaiming sacred space from the wounds of history. The stupa, consecrated shortly before the Tenth Panchen Lama’s passing, now houses his remains and serves as a focal point for devotion, memory, and continuity within the Gelugpa tradition.
Architecturally, the stupa is both traditional and monumental, adorned with gold and intricate ornamentation that reflect the spiritual stature of the Panchen Lama lineage. It is situated within the sacred precincts of Tashi Lhunpo, the monastery historically associated with the Panchen Lamas, and its presence reasserts the monastery’s role as a living center of Tibetan Buddhist heritage. Pilgrims circumambulate the stupa in reverent silence, offering prayers and prostrations not only to honor the deceased master but to connect with his legacy of scholarship, compassion, and moral courage. The stupa thus becomes a mandala of remembrance, where the spiritual and political dimensions of Tibetan history converge.
Spiritually, the Tenth Panchen Lama’s Tomb Stupa resonates with themes of sacrifice, truth-telling, and the enduring power of faith. Despite being raised under the supervision of the Chinese government, the Panchen Lama remained deeply committed to the Tibetan cause and openly criticized policies that threatened his people’s culture and religion. His stupa is not merely a memorial—it is a testament to the possibility of integrity under oppression, and to the role of spiritual leadership in times of crisis. For many Tibetans, it is a place of pilgrimage not only for blessings but for strength, a golden witness to the enduring voice of conscience in the face of silence.
Photographs by Prof. Mortel, distributed under a CC-BY 2.0 license.

Walking to the Fourth Panchen Lama's Tomb Stupa

Entering the Fourth Panchen Lama's Tomb Stupa

Helping a clumsy monk

Walking to the Kelsang Temple

Panorama of the facade of Kelsang Temple

Entering Kelsang Temple

Kelsang Temple
Kelsang Temple, one of the architectural and spiritual jewels of Tashi Lhunpo Monastery in Shigatse, Tibet, stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of the Panchen Lama lineage and the scholastic rigor of the Gelugpa tradition.

Named after the Fourth Panchen Lama, Lobsang Chökyi Gyaltsen—an eminent scholar and spiritual leader—the temple was constructed in the 17th century and remains one of the largest and most important structures within the monastic complex. Its vast courtyard, flanked by imposing walls and prayer halls, serves as a central gathering place for ritual, debate, and communal practice, embodying the fusion of contemplative depth and intellectual inquiry that defines Tibetan monastic life.
Architecturally, Kelsang Temple reflects the grandeur and symmetry of classical Tibetan design, with multistoried chapels, intricately painted murals, and richly adorned altars. The temple houses numerous sacred images, including statues of Shakyamuni Buddha, Tsongkhapa—the founder of the Gelug school—and various tantric deities, each placed with symbolic precision to guide the practitioner through layers of meaning and realization. The temple’s layout follows mandalic principles, with the central axis marked by a tall prayer flag pole that rises from the courtyard like a spiritual spine, linking the earthly domain with the transcendent. This pole, surrounded by the rhythmic movement of monks and pilgrims, becomes a silent witness to centuries of devotion and philosophical debate.
Spiritually, Kelsang Temple is more than a physical structure—it is a living mandala of transmission, where the teachings of the Buddha are preserved, enacted, and renewed. It serves as a locus for initiations, empowerments, and ritual cycles, anchoring the monastery’s role as a center of Vajrayana practice and scholastic excellence. For pilgrims, entering Kelsang Temple is akin to stepping into a sacred text, where each image, chant, and architectural gesture invites reflection and transformation. In its silence and its ceremony, the temple holds the pulse of Tibetan Buddhism—resilient, radiant, and ever oriented toward awakening.

Panorama of the great courtyard of Kelsang Temple seen from south

Flag Pole
In Vajrayana Buddhist temples and monasteries, the central courtyard pole—often a tall, ornately decorated prayer flag mast—serves as a vertical axis linking earth and sky, samsara and nirvana.

This pole is not merely structural; it is a ritual and symbolic spine of the sacred space, echoing the cosmic axis (axis mundi) found in many spiritual traditions. It marks the center of the mandala-like layout of the temple, around which the architecture and ritual movement are oriented. The pole is typically adorned with prayer flags, mantras, and sacred symbols, transforming it into a conduit for blessings, aspirations, and the subtle energies of the dharma. As wind moves through the flags, it is believed to carry prayers across the landscape, dissolving boundaries between the visible and invisible realms.
At Tashi Lhunpo Monastery, the great courtyard of the Kelsang Temple—named after the Fourth Panchen Lama, Lobsang Chökyi Gyaltsen—features such a central pole, rising like a spiritual beacon amid the vast stone expanse. This pole, often wrapped in layers of colored cloth and crowned with a finial, anchors the courtyard as a ritual center. It is here that monks and pilgrims gather for ceremonies, debates, and circumambulations, with the pole serving as a silent witness to centuries of devotion and philosophical inquiry. Its presence evokes the principle of vajra—indestructible truth—standing firm amid the flux of time and history. In this way, the pole becomes a symbol of stability, clarity, and the unwavering presence of the dharma in the heart of the monastic world.
Spiritually, the pole in the Kelsang Temple courtyard invites contemplation of verticality—not just in space, but in consciousness. It gestures upward toward transcendence, while remaining rooted in the communal ground of practice. For pilgrims and monks alike, it is a reminder that enlightenment is not a distant abstraction but a path that rises from the center of one’s own being. The pole’s central placement also reflects the tantric understanding of sacred geometry, where the center is both origin and destination, the place of stillness from which all movement arises. In this way, the pole is not only a physical marker but a metaphysical invitation: to stand at the center, to align with the axis of truth, and to let the winds of prayer carry one beyond the veils of illusion.

Vertical panorama of Kelsang Temple

Panorama of the great courtyard of Kelsang Temple seen from west

Water well in the large courtyard of Kelsang Temple
The well in the great courtyard of Kelsang Temple at Tashi Lhunpo Monastery is a quiet yet potent symbol of sustenance, continuity, and spiritual depth.

Nestled within the vast stone expanse where monks gather for debate and ritual, the well offers not only physical water but a metaphorical source of inner nourishment. In Tibetan Buddhist symbolism, wells often represent the hidden reservoirs of wisdom beneath the surface of ordinary perception. Their presence in monastic courtyards evokes the idea that beneath the visible forms of ritual and architecture lies a deeper current of insight—accessible through disciplined practice and contemplative inquiry.
Historically, the well at Kelsang Temple would have served the daily needs of the monastic community, providing water for drinking, cooking, and ritual purification. Its placement in the center of the courtyard aligns with the mandalic logic of Tibetan sacred architecture, where the center is both origin and destination. Just as the central pole rises toward the sky, the well descends into the earth, creating a vertical axis that links the elemental realms. This duality—sky and earth, aspiration and grounding—mirrors the tantric path itself, which seeks to unite opposites and transform the mundane into the sacred. The well thus becomes a ritual threshold, a place where monks and pilgrims may pause, reflect, and draw sustenance both literal and symbolic.
Spiritually, the well invites a gesture of humility: to draw water is to bend, to reach downward, to acknowledge dependence on hidden sources. In the context of Kelsang Temple—a space of scholastic rigor and ritual precision—the well reminds practitioners that true wisdom is not merely accumulated but drawn from depths. It is a symbol of the inner spring that feeds the path of awakening, often unnoticed but always present. For pilgrims, the well may serve as a quiet locus of prayer or offering, a place to honor the unseen forces that sustain life and practice. In this way, the well in the courtyard is not merely a utilitarian feature but a living emblem of the monastery’s spiritual heart.

Panorama of the display wall of the large thangka
The wall where the gigantic thangka, or thongdrel, is displayed at Tashi Lhunpo Monastery is not merely an architectural feature—it is a ritual threshold between the visible and the imaginal, the temporal and the timeless.

Typically unveiled during major religious festivals, especially the annual Maitreya Festival, this towering wall becomes the backdrop for one of the most awe-inspiring spectacles in Tibetan Buddhist tradition. The thongdrel, often depicting Maitreya Buddha or other exalted figures, is unfurled with ceremonial precision, revealing a sacred image that is believed to confer liberation simply through sight. The wall’s height and orientation are carefully chosen to allow the thangka to dominate the landscape, transforming the monastery into a cosmic theatre of revelation.
At Tashi Lhunpo, the wall used for the thongdrel stands on a slope above the monastery complex, facing the great courtyard and visible from afar. When the thangka is displayed, it cascades down the wall like a waterfall of light and color, its immense fabric rippling in the wind, its iconography radiating blessings across the valley. The image of Maitreya—Buddha of the Future—is often chosen for this display, reinforcing the monastery’s deep connection to prophetic hope and the continuity of the dharma. Monks chant, horns resound, and pilgrims gather in reverent silence or joyful devotion, their gazes lifted toward the unveiled face of compassion. In this moment, the wall becomes a portal, and the monastery a mandala of collective awakening.
Spiritually, the thongdrel wall serves as a canvas for epiphany. Its annual unveiling is not just a spectacle but a ritual of cosmic alignment, where the image descends like a deity entering the world. The sheer scale of the thangka—often several stories tall—invites the viewer to surrender ordinary perception and enter a mythic dimension. For the faithful, the wall is remembered not for its stone or mortar, but for the moment it disappears beneath the gaze of the Buddha. In this way, the wall at Tashi Lhunpo is both a physical structure and a spiritual event—a place where vision becomes liberation, and where the future Buddha momentarily touches the earth.

Circumambulating Mani stones
Circumambulating Mani stones is a deeply rooted devotional practice in Tibetan Buddhism, where pilgrims walk clockwise around stone piles or walls engraved with sacred mantras—most commonly Om Mani Padme Hum, the mantra of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion.

These stones, often carved by hand and placed with reverence, form a kind of spiritual terrain, a landscape of prayer inscribed into the earth. The act of walking around them is not merely physical; it is a ritual of purification, merit-making, and alignment with the compassionate energies they embody. Each step becomes a gesture of offering, each breath a silent invocation, as the practitioner enters into a rhythm of body, mantra, and intention.
At Tashi Lhunpo Monastery in Shigatse, the Mani stones are arranged in long, low walls that border the paths of circumambulation, especially along the lingkhor—the sacred circuit encircling the monastery. These stones, weathered by time and touched by countless hands, form a tactile archive of devotion. Some are centuries old, others newly carved, yet all participate in the same silent liturgy. Pilgrims walk beside them with prayer wheels spinning, murmuring mantras or simply moving in contemplative silence. The stones are not passive objects but active presences, believed to radiate blessings and absorb the obscurations of those who pass. In this way, the Mani walls at Tashi Lhunpo become both boundary and bridge—marking sacred space while inviting the pilgrim into deeper communion.
Spiritually, the circumambulation of Mani stones is a practice of embodied compassion. The mantra carved into each stone is not just a phrase but a vibration, a seed of awakened mind. To walk around these stones is to enter into a mandala of mercy, where the outer movement reflects an inner turning toward kindness, clarity, and release. At Tashi Lhunpo, where the lineage of the Panchen Lamas and the presence of Maitreya converge, the Mani stones echo the monastery’s deeper calling: to hold and transmit the light of wisdom in a world of suffering. Each circuit is a prayer in motion, each stone a syllable of the dharma inscribed in stone and silence.