Yaxchilan

Yaxchilan is an ancient Maya city located on the bank of the Usumacinta River in the state of Chiapas, Mexico. In the Late Classic Period Yaxchilan was one of the most powerful Maya states along the course of the Usumacinta River, with Piedras Negras as its major rival. Architectural styles in subordinate sites in the Usumacinta region demonstrate clear differences that mark a clear boundary between the two kingdoms.

Yaxchilan was a large center, important throughout the Classic era, and the dominant power of the Usumacinta River area. It dominated such smaller sites as Bonampak, and had a long rivalry with Piedras Negras and at least for a time with Tikal; it was a rival of Palenque, with which Yaxchilan warred in 654.

The site is particularly known for its well-preserved sculptured stone lintels set above the doorways of the main structures. These lintels, together with the stelae erected before the major buildings, contain hieroglyphic texts describing the dynastic history of the city.

Approaching the Usumacinta River.
The Usumacinta River (named after the howler monkey) is a river in southeastern Mexico and northwestern Guatemala. It is formed by the junction of the Pasión River, which arises in the Sierra de Santa Cruz (in Guatemala) and the Salinas River, also known as the Rio Chixoy, or the Rio Negro, which descends from the Sierra Madre de Guatemala. It defines part of the border between Guatemala and the Mexican state of Chiapas, then continues its northwesterly course, meandering through the Mexican state of Tabasco to the Gulf of Mexico.

See more at Usumacinta River - Wikipedia.

The boats wait on the river bank.

Sailing towards Yaxchilan.
On the left bank is Mexico, on the right bank is Guatemala.

Tourists travel in the shade.

Arriving at Yaxchilan.

Entering Yaxchilan.

Approaching the entrance gate.

Receiving explanations.
Blandine Gautier explains the importance of Yaxchilan.

Yaxchilan has its origins in the Preclassic Period.
A large part of what is known of the Classic Period history of the city comes from the hieroglyphic texts of the kings who ruled during its Late Classic apogee, one of the most important of which is Hieroglyphic Stairway 1.
Some retrospective inscriptions appear to have been used to rewrite Yaxchilan's dynastic history to suit king Bird Jaguar IV.
Before the rule of king Itzamnaaj Balam II, who reigned from 681 to 742, the city was relatively small.
The city-state then grew to a regional capital and the dynasty lasted into the early 9th century.

Map of Yaxchilan.
On this map (the bottom map) north is at the top and south is at the bottom.

Entrance to the archaeological site is from the northwest (top left).
The visit begins in the northwest (top left) and continues to the southeast (bottom right). Then we return to the starting point.
The on-site map (the top map) is upside down, showing north at the bottom and south at the top.

Starting to see the ruins.
Yaxchilan is in the middle of the Lacandon Jungle.

The Lacandon Jungle (Spanish: Selva Lacandona) is an area of rainforest which stretches from Chiapas, Mexico, into Guatemala. The heart of this rainforest is located in the Montes Azules Biosphere Reserve in Chiapas near the border with Guatemala in the Montañas del Oriente region of the state.
See more at Lacandon Jungle - Wikipedia.

The Labyrinth.
The first structure we encounter, and which we cross, is the Labyrinth (Laberinto).

The Labyrinth gives access to the Large Square.
The Labyrinth is also known as Structure 19. It lies at the western edge of the Central Acropolis.
The structure is a temple with rooms spread over three levels, linked by interior stairways.

Entering the Labyrinth.
The Labyrinth is very dark so you need flashlights to get through it.

Exiting the Labyrinth.
At the end of the Labyrinth, we exit to the Large Square.

The Labyrinth seen from the Large Square.
The Labyrinth is found at the northwest end of the Large Square.

The temple facade has four doorways, with three doorway-sized niches between them.
Two sculptured altars are located in front of the structure, which still has the remains of a perforated roof comb.

Staircase on the right side of the temple facade.

The Large Square.
The Large Square (Gran Plaza) is seen here from northwest to southeast.

Structure 16.
Structure 16 is between the Labyrinth and the Sweat Lodge.

It contains Lintels 38 through to 40, which have been reset in their original positions.

Going up to the Sweat Lodge.

The Sweat Lodge.
Structure 17 is a simple structure made up of a single vaulted bay with an access bay, it presents at least two construction stages that deformed its architectural proportion, leaving the small temple partially covered by the platform that surrounds it. The evidence found seems to indicate that it was a Temazcal.

A temazcal (from the Nahuatl temazcalli, 'house where you sweat', from temaz, 'sweat', and calli, 'house') refers to an ancestral pre-Hispanic/pre-American ritual and in turn a steam bath of medicinal and aromatic herbs used in traditional medicine and the daily life of the peoples of central Mexico.
These baths have been used by various indigenous cultures of Mesoamerica and North America for medicinal purposes of detoxification by sweating from herbal infusions. In Maya it is zumpul-ché and in Mixtec, ñihi.
See more at Temazcal - Wikipedia.

Walking towards the Ballcourt.

The northwest Ballcourt.
Structure 14 is the northwest Ballcourt. It is located on the Large Square of the Central Acropolis.

Five sculpted ballcourt markers were found here, three of which were aligned on the playing area and one on each of the platforms to either side.
One of the ballcourt markers was removed from the site, the rest are broken and eroded.
See more at Maya Ballgame - Wikipedia and Mesoamerican ballgame - Wikipedia.

Altar at the entrance to the Ballcourt.
The Maya ballgame was more than just an athletic event; it was also a religious event of regeneration that the Maya saw as integral to their continued existence.

The Maya showed devotion to their gods by playing the game and by sacrifices.

Structure 12.
Structure 12 is a small structure in the Central Acropolis, close to the river. The structure is located in the Central Acropolis close to one of the ballcourts.

It contained eight lintels dating to the early 6th century.
The lintels record nine generations of rulers of the city.
The lintels were commissioned by K'inich Tatb'u Skull II, their original location is unknown, being reset into Structure 12 in the 8th century by king Bird Jaguar IV.
Some of the lintels remain in place.

Stela 1.
Stela 1 is located on a low basement in the central part of the Large Square and its main face is oriented towards Structure 33, creating a true dialogue between building and monument.

Stela 1 is divided into three speeches.
In the central section represents Bird Jaguar IV in a dispersal ceremony in the year 761 and next to him is another smaller character.
In the upper section, on a light blue bar, his parents are seated, flanking Kin, the Sun God.
In the lower section Kin again appears with a large ceremonial bar.
The other three faces are also carved, although very eroded. On the sides there are two sculptures, one represents a crocodile and the other a jaguar, and a short distance away were the straights of a throne.

Structure 6, south facade.
Structure 6 is near the Large Square in the Central Acropolis. It is in a good state of preservation.

Structure 6 has six doorways, three facing the Large Square and three facing the river.
The doorways that open onto the Large Square were blocked up in antiquity and new doorways were cut into the sides of the structure.
The facade of the building facing the Large Square has a surviving frieze with a sculpture of a head.
The structure has a surviving perforated roof comb and is believed to date to the Early Classic.

Structure 6, north facade.
This facade of Structure 6 faces the river.

Stela 3.
Stela 3 stands on a platform in the center of a square by Structure 20.

It was intentionally destroyed since pre-Hispanic times, it had to be restored and the monument was re-erected.
It was carved with scenes of a religious and political nature and despite its destruction, the dates that it presents associate it with the government of Bird Jaguar III.

Bas-relief on the right side of Stela 3.
This bas-relief marks the end of our visit's progress towards the southeast. From here we return to the entry point in the northwest. So far, the visit has been made along the north side of the Large Square, from now on, the return will be made along the south side of the Large Square.

Structure 20 and Stele 6.
Structure 20 is in the center of the image. Stele 6 is on the left, on the left side of the tree trunk.

Stela 6.
Stela 6 stands in front of the terrace supporting Structure 20.

It is largely intact and depicts the 7th-century ruler Bird Jaguar III.

Moving up to Structure 20.

Structure 20.
Structure 20 is in the Central Acropolis and has three rooms.

The three doorways to this structure once supported sculpted Lintels 12, 13 and 14, although only two now remain.
A small amount of the roof comb of the building remains, and the sloped roof still has surviving friezes containing niches.
Structure 20 was excavated by Ian Graham in 1982, during the excavations a hieroglyphic step was found in front of the building, it was reburied in order to preserve it.

Lintel 14.
Lintel 14 is set above a doorway in Structure 20 and is particularly well preserved.

The scene shows the parents of Shield Jaguar III the Lady Big Skull and Bird Jaguar IV commemorating their birth with a self sacrifice ceremony.

Walking towards Structure 21.
Structure 21 is on a terrace below Structure 25 and 26.

The three lintels over the doorways in this structure were Lintels 15 through to 17, although they were removed in the 19th century and are now in the British Museum in London.
Structure 21 was excavated in 1983. The vaulted roof of the structure had already collapsed before 1882, filling the rooms with rubble that has now been removed, uncovering several important monuments, including Stela 35 and the remains of life size stucco figures on the back wall behind the stela itself.

Stela 35.
Stela 35 is an exceptionally well preserved monument found during excavations of Structure 21 in 1983.

The stela is fairly small and depicts Lady Eveningstar (also known as Lady Ik Skull), the mother of king Bird Jaguar IV.

The wall behind Stela 35.
On the wall behind Stela 35 is a scene with five seated characters, modeled in stucco.

Remains of three deities and glyphs are preserved.
The colors were red, green, yellow, black and mayan blue.

Structure 22.
Structure 21 can be seen on the left and Structure 22 on the right. Between these two structures is the Hieroglyphic Stairway 2.

Structure 22 is on a terrace in the Central Acropolis near the Large Square.
It still has sculptured lintels in place.

Hieroglyphic Stairway 2.
Hieroglyphic Stairway 2 is the riser of the uppermost step approaching Structure 33.

It consists of 13 sculptured blocks, numbered from left to right as Steps I to XIII.
Steps VI, VII and XVIII are extremely well preserved and depict Bird Jaguar IV and two of his predecessors dressed as ball players.

Structure 33.
Structure 33, in the Central Acropolis, has been described as a masterpiece in stone and was probably dedicated in 756 by Bird Jaguar IV. The structure overlooks the Main Square and the river and would have been prominent to river traffic in the 8th century.

It has plain lower walls with three doorways, each of which supports a well-preserved lintel (Yaxchilan Lintels 1 to 3).
In the centre of the back wall of the structure, opposite the central doorway, is a niche containing the headless sculpture of a human figure, probably Bird Jaguar IV himself.
The roof of the structure is largely intact, including a sloped roof supporting a frieze and a well-preserved roof comb. There are niches in both the roof comb and the frieze, the niche in the roof comb contains the remains of a sculpted figure. Tennons on both roof sections once supported stucco decoration.
Leading up to the front of Structure 33 from the Large Square is a stairway, the top step of which is sculpted, this step is known as Hieroglyphic Stairway 2.