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Mitla

Mitla is the second-most important archeological site in the state of Oaxaca in Mexico, and the most important of the Zapotec culture. The site is located 44 km from the city of Oaxaca, in the upper end of the Tlacolula Valley, one of the three cold, high valleys that form the Central Valleys Region of the state. At an elevation of 1,480 m (4,855 ft), surrounded by the mountains of the Sierra Madre del Sur, the archeological site is within the modern municipality of San Pablo Villa de Mitla. It is 38 km (24 mi) southeast of Oaxaca city. While Monte Albán was the most important politically of the Zapotec centers, Mitla became the main religious one in a later period as the area became dominated by the Mixtec.

The name Mitla is derived from the Nahuatl name Mictlán, meaning the "place of the dead" or "underworld." Its Zapotec name is Lyobaa, which means “place of rest.” The name Mictlán was Hispanicized or transliterated to Mitla by the Spanish colonists. It was established as a sacred burial site by the Zapotec, but the architecture and designs also show the influence of the Mixtec, who had become prominent in the area during the peak of Mitla settlement.

Mitla is unique among Mesoamerican sites because of its elaborate and intricate mosaic fretwork and geometric designs that cover tombs, panels, friezes, and even entire walls of the complex. These mosaics are made with small, finely cut and polished stone pieces that have been fitted together without the use of mortar. No other site in Mexico has this decorative work.

Approaching Mitla.
Approaching the archaeological site of Mitla. Mitla's archaeological site is 55 km (34 mi) east of the Monte Albán archaeological site.


Mitla.
Rather than being a group of pyramids on a ridge, as is Monte Albán, Mitla is a group of structures built on the valley floor. These valleys are at high elevations in the mountains; it is more than 1,480 m (4,855 ft) high. The site does not have the far and wide vistas of Monte Albán. The architecture is characterized as more for the comfort of the residents rather than for magnificence.

  • The construction of Mitla as a ceremonial center began in 850CE.
  • The city was still developing when the Spaniards arrived and destroyed it in the mid-16th century.

Mitla map.
In this map of Mitla the north is at the top and the south is at the bottom.


Church Group

The Church or North Group.
The entrance to the site is by the Church or North Group.

  • In the 16th century, the Spanish built the Church of San Pablo here. It was constructed on top of a large pre-Hispanic platform, which now serves as the church atrium.
  • The Zapotec believed that the lord and lady of the underworld lived in this group of structures.
  • The Spaniards built their church here in turn to emphasize their power and to keep the “devil” from escaping.

Entering the courtyard.
This group also contains the main Zapotec temple, called the yohopàe, which translates to “house of the vital force.” This temple faces a large courtyard.


West side of the courtyard.

Northwest corner of the courtyard.

Northeast corner of the courtyard.

East side of the courtyard.

The Temple.
The portal to the temple is flanked by two large columns, which lead into an antechamber.

  • This antechamber once had a roof, supported by six columns, but only the columns and walls remain.
  • Beyond the antechamber is the main room, where priests burned incense, made sacrifices and performed other rites.
  • Behind the main chamber are the living quarters of the Zapotec priests. Walls throughout this building are covered by intricate mosaic fretwork, and murals depicting mythological scenes and characters.

Ancient frescos.
The two main concerns for the Mitla site are the eroding effects of wind, rain etc. and graffiti.

  • The latter, which is mostly painted or etched by visitors, has been a serious problem at least since the early 20th century.

The Friezes.
The main distinguishing feature of Mitla is the intricate mosaic fretwork and geometric designs that profusely adorn the walls of both the Church and Columns groups.

  • The geometric patterns, called grecas in Spanish, are made from thousands of cut, polished stones that are fitted together without mortar.
  • The pieces were set against a stucco background painted red.
  • The stones are held in place by the weight of the stones that surround them.
  • Walls, friezes and tombs are decorated with mosaic fretwork. In some cases, such as in lintels, these stone “tiles” are embedded directly into the stone beam.
  • The elaborate mosaics are considered to be a type of “Baroque” design, as the designs are elaborate and intricate, and in some cases cover entire walls.
  • None of the fretwork designs is repeated exactly anywhere in the complex. The fretwork here is unique in all of Mesoamerica.

Columns Group

Towards the Columns Group.
Exterior view of the Courtyard of the Grecas seen from the north.


The Courtyard of the Grecas and the Palace.
Exterior view of the Courtyard of the Grecas (left) and the Palace (right) seen from the north.


The Courtyard of the Grecas and the Palace.
Exterior view of the Courtyard of the Grecas (left) and the Palace (right) seen from the northwest.

  • These are surrounded by large halls whose facades and internal walls present us with a profusion of complex geometrical mosaic decoration in finely carved stone.
  • This is noteworthy due to its variety, which is characteristic of the late Zapotec style and cause for admiration from both locals and outsiders.

Entering the Palace Courtyard.

Inside the Palace Courtyard.
Inside the Palace Courtyard with the palace facade in the background, seen from the south.


An unrestored building.
An unrestored building east of the Palace Courtyard.


Going up to the palace.
Climbing the stairs from the courtyard to the palace.


Wall decorated with grecas.
Detail of the decoration with fretwork of the palace.


Palace interior.
It measures 36.6 by 6.4 m (120 by 21 feet) and has six columns of volcanic stone that once supported the roof.

  • The north wall has a small opening facing the Courtyard of the Grecas, believed to be used to pass into the afterlife.

An unrestored building.
East side of the Palace Courtyard seen from inside the Palace.


Tomb in the Palace Courtyard.
Palace Courtyard with the Palace in the background.

  • Notice the tomb in the center of the courtyard, in the foreground.
  • This is a cross-shaped tomb with an antechamber. The ceiling has large beams made of stone, and the walls are decorated with tablets and stone fretwork.

Towards the Southwest Courtyard.
After leaving the Palace Courtyard, we head to the Southwest Courtyard.


Entering the Southwest Courtyard.

North side of Southwest Courtyard.

Northeast corner of the Southwest Courtyard.
Notice the two groups of people standing next to the two tombs in this courtyard.


Southeast corner of the Southwest Courtyard.

South side of southwest courtyard.

East tomb.
Entrance to this tomb is found on the east side of the Southwest Courtyard.

  • The Southwest Courtyard have elaborate tombs where high priests and Zapotec rulers were buried.

North tomb.
Entrance to this tomb is found on the north side of the southwest courtyard.


Leaving the southwest courtyard.

On the way out.
Passing by the side of the Palace towards the exit.


Recently discovered column.
On the way out we find a recently discovered column.


Leaving the archaeological site of Mitla.

See also

Sources

Location

Location: San Pablo Villa de Mitla, Oax., Mexico