El Tajín

El Tajín is a pre-Columbian archeological site in southern Mexico and is one of the largest and most important cities of the Classic era of Mesoamerica. A part of the Classic Veracruz culture, El Tajín flourished from 600 to 1200 CE and during this time numerous temples, palaces, ballcourts, and Pyramids were built. From the time the city fell, in 1230, to 1785, no European seems to have known of its existence, until a government inspector chanced upon the Pyramid of the Niches.

El Tajín, named after the Totonac rain god, was named a World Heritage site in 1992, due to its cultural importance and its architecture. This architecture includes the use of decorative niches and cement in forms unknown in the rest of Mesoamerica. Its best-known monument is the Pyramid of the Niches, but other important monuments include the Arroyo Group, the North and South Ballcourts and the palaces of Tajín Chico. In total there have been 20 ballcourts discovered at this site, (the last 3 being discovered in March 2013).

Approaching the entrance. When it was rediscovered by officialdom in 1785, the site was known to the local Totonac, whose ancestors may also have built the city, as El Tajín, which was said to mean “of thunder or lightning bolt”. Related to this is their belief that twelve old thunderstorm deities, known as Tajín, still inhabit the ruins. However, a series of indigenous maps dating from the time of the Spanish conquest, found in nearby Tihuatlan and now known as the Lienzos de Tuxpan, suggest that the city might then have been called “Mictlan” or “place of the dead”, a common denomination for ancient sites whose original names have been lost.

Entrance to the site. The entrance to the site is located at the south end. In being named a World Heritage Site in 1992, new facilities have been added to this area, such as a cafeteria, information services, a park and administrative offices. The site museum is also located here. In addition, the Danza de los Voladores is enacted at the entrance to the site and is considered a requirement for visitors. The voladores appear every half-hour at the pole and circle erected just outside the main gate.

Informational board. The main city is defined by two streams which merge to form the Tlahuanapa Arroyo, a tributary of the Tecolutla River. These two streams provided the population's potable water. Most of the buildings are at the southern end, where the land is relatively flat and the two streams converge. The site extends to the northwest where terraces were constructed to place more buildings, mostly for the city's elite. However the city also had communities located on the hills east and west of the main city, with mostly lower-class dwellings. Total site extends for 1,056 hectares (4.08 sq mi). On this information panel, south is on the left and north is on the right. The entrance to the archeological site is from the south, therefore on the left side of this panel. Our route goes north (from left to right on this panel) from number 1 to number 11, and then we return to the entrance. Number 10, the Citadel, is not visited due to preservation problems.

Map of El Tajin. On this map north is at the top and south is at the bottom.

Ecological surroundings of the site. The area is rainforest, with a hot wet climate of the Senegal type. Average temperature for the year is 35 °C with hurricanes possible from June to October. It is also affected by a weather phenomenon called “nortes.” These are cold fronts with winds that come from the north and down the Tamaulipas and Veracruz coasts. The site has no major settlements located next to it. Surrounding it are tobacco fields, banana plantations, apiaries and vanilla groves. The closest settlement of any real size is Papantla.

Approaching the Arroyo Group. This is called the Arroyo Group because two streams surround it on three sides. This area is one of the oldest sections of the city, and is more than 86,100 square feet (8,000 m2).

Arroyo Plaza. The Arroyo Plaza is flanked by four high buildings, named Buildings 16, 18, 19 and 20, which were topped by temples.

Pyramid 19 (back). Stairways lead from the plaza floor to the temples above. The Pyramids here are primitive in comparison to the rest of the site, with niches that are not as finely formed.

Passing between Pyramid 18 (right) and 19 (left). Unlike the rest of the city, these four buildings are uniform in height and nearly symmetrical.

Arroyo Plaza. Another unusual feature is that this plaza has no smaller structures such as buildings or altars to break up the space. It has been determined that this was the city marketplace because of the large plaza space for stalls and for a deity found here that is related to commerce. The merchant deity found here has features more in common with this kind of deity in the central highlands of Mexico than of Tajín. The market that filled this plaza consisted of stalls made with sticks and cloth offering regional products such as vanilla as well as products from other parts of Mesoamerica such as jaguar skins, exotic birds such as the parrot and the macaw and quetzal feathers. Slaves for service and sacrifice were also sold here.

Pyramid 19 (front). Pyramid 19 is located south of Arroyo Plaza.

Pyramid 20. Pyramid 20 is located west of Arroyo Plaza. The east (number 18) and west (number 20) Pyramids of the Arroyo Group each held three temples at the top.

Pyramid 16. Pyramid 16 is located north of Arroyo Plaza.

Pyramid 16 (closer view).

Pyramid 18. Pyramid 18 is located east of Arroyo Plaza. The east (number 18) and west (number 20) Pyramids of the Arroyo Group each held three temples at the top.

Pyramid 16 (southwest corner).

Leaving Arroyo Plaza. Heading north, around Pyramid 16 (on the left).

Pyramid 16 (east side).

Pyramid 16 (detail). The Pyramids here are primitive in comparison to the rest of the site, with niches that are not as finely formed.

Pyramid 16 (northeast corner). Northeast corner of Pyramid 16 (left).

Pyramid 16 (north side). Close-up view of the north side of Pyramid 16.

Pyramid 16 (north side). Distant view of the north side of Pyramid 16.

Pyramid 13 and Pyramid 14. Pyramid 13 (left) and Pyramid 14 (right) are immediately north of the Arroyo Group.

Pyramid 13 and Pyramid 14. Detail of Pyramid 13 (left) and Pyramid 14 (right).

Between Pyramid 14 and Pyramid 17. The cobbled path crosses between Pyramid 14 (left) and Pyramid 17 (right).

Pyramid 17 (right).

Pyramid 17 (detail). The pyramids here are primitive in comparison to the rest of the site, with niches that are not as finely formed.

Pyramid 15. The cobbled path takes us to pyramid 15. Here the path divides to the left and to the right. We take the left direction. Pyramid 15 is only partially excavated. It faces west and appears to have a civil function. It has stairways on both the east and west sides that lead to the top of the second level. The third story begins with a wall of niches and no visible stairs. The two lower levels are adorned with larger niches as is the top of the stairway divider. Beneath the larger niches is a line of seven panels. Under the fourth panel, an older panel was found. Deeper excavation found an older, damaged structure which was covered over by the visible structure. This building is thought to the last built with niches. Behind and to the right of Pyramid 15 we can see Pyramid 23.

Pyramid 15 (detail).

Pyramid 15 (close-up).

Walking towards the South Ballcourt. On the left you can see Pyramids 13 and 14, on the right is Pyramid 15, and in front of us is the South Ballcourt (left) and Pyramid 5 (right).

Pyramid 14 and Pyramid 13. North view of Pyramid 14 (left) and Pyramid 13 (right). Pyramid 16 can be seen in the background (top left).

South Ballcourt and Pyramid 5. View of South Ballcourt (left) and Pyramid 5 (right).

Blue Temple. Pyramid 3 or the Blue Temple has some features that set it apart from other pyramids at the site. Except for six benches on the staircase and at the top of the balustrades, probably later additions, there are no niches. The seven stories of the pyramid are composed of gently sloping walling divided into panels of varying widths. The unreconstructed north side has a large indentation made by looters before the site was protected by guards. No sculpture is known to have come from this building and nothing of the temple at the top remains. The building was covered in cement several times over its history, and each layer of this cement was painted in blue rather than the more common red. Remnants of this paint can be seen on part of the stairway and on the side facing east toward Building 23. Blue is most often associated with the rain god but there is no other evidence to support this.

Pyramid 5. Pyramid 5 is considered to be the stateliest of the El Tajin site. While located next to the Pyramid of the Niches, its visual appeal is not lost to its more famous neighbor. It is located in the center of a pyramid complex and consists of a truncated pyramid rising from a platform that is over 32,000 square feet (3,000 m2) in size. Access to the first level of the pyramid, which is lined with niches, is via a single staircase on the west side or a double staircase on the east side. Access to the top of the pyramid, where the temple once stood, is via a double staircase on the east side. The top of the pyramid contains two platforms, both of which are decorated with stepped frets. Between the two sets of staircases on the first level on the east side is a tall column-line sculpture. It had been thrown down from the top of the pyramid in ancient times and broken. Archeologists reassembled it at the spot in which it was found. The sculpture is similar in style to the carved stone yokes of Veracruz. The figure seems to be an allegorical representation of a seated figure with a severed upper torso and a skull for a head. The arms are holding a serpent like form and the body contains scrolls, which may signify sacrificial blood. The small buildings that surround this pyramid are meant to complement it. However, the one on the northeast side has been completely destroyed due to centuries-old trail that was used when this area was still jungle.

South Ballcourt. The South Ballcourt, like the North Ball court, has only vertical walls which are sculpted. The sculpted panels on these walls remain largely intact and show in step-by-step fashion how the ball game was played here, complete with ceremonies, sacrifice and the response of the gods. The court has a general east-west alignment and is 60m (198 feet) long and 10.5m (34.5 feet) wide.

Entering the South Ballcourt. Spectators could watch events from Pyramid 5 to the north and Pyramid 6 to the south as well as from stands built on one side of the court. The court is made of stones of up to ten tons in weight many of which came from outside the valley.

South Ballcourt panels. Once the court walls were built six panels were sculpted at the corners and centers of the two walls. The panels on the ends show scenes from the ballgame itself and the center panels show responses from the gods. The southeast panel illustrates the opening ritual when the principal participant is elaborately dressed and is being handed a bundle of spears. This is part of an initial activity before the game itself starts. Overlooking this scene is the death deity who rises from a vat of liquid, perhaps pulque. The glyphs above the deity identify it with the planet Venus. Next is the southwest panel in which a different ceremonial preparation is depicted. The principal participant is supine on a kind of a sofa. Two musicians are playing a turtle shell drum and clay rattles. A figure dressed as an eagle dances in front while a skeletal deity flies above and the death deity rises from liquid. The northwest panel shows the beginning of the ballgame. Two participants are standing in the center of the court with speech scrolls emerging from their mouths. One holds a large knife in his left hand and gestures with his right. Between them are intertwined slashes, the symbol of the ballgame and a ball. At their waists are the protective and ritual accoutrements which are very similar to the stone yokes, palmas and hachas common in elite burials. Behind the players are two figures, one with a deer head, who are watching from the court walls as well as the death deity again above. The northeast panel indicates that the game has been played and one of the participants is about to be sacrificed by having his head cut off. The three figures are all dressed in the garments and symbols of the ballgame. The center figure has his arms held back by the one on the left. The figure on the right holds a large knife which is at the center figure's neck. There are scrolls indicating speech from the sacrifice as well as a depiction of the skeletal god. After this point, the panels deal with the response of the gods. The north central panel represents the continuation of the ritual in the afterlife, and shows how the events of the game connect the society of El Tajin to the gods. At the center of the scene is a temple with the rain and wind gods seated on top and a vat of liquid within. The sacrificed player appears here, whole and with a pot under his arm. He points to the vat and addresses the rain god. The liquid is protected by a reclining chacmool, who is speaking. What is being requested is pulque, indicated by a glyph indicating the mythical origin of the drink and a split image of the god of pulque above the scene. On the south central panel is depicting a scene after the sacrificed ball player has received the pulque with the same temple, glyphs and depiction of the pulque god. The differences are a depiction of the moon as a rabbit, the rain god in front of the temple and the level of the liquid in the vat lowered. The rain god is shown in a rite of auto sacrifice running a spike through part of his penis. The blood falls into the vat and to refill it with pulque.

Between Pyramid 5 and the Blue Temple. Walking next to Pyramid 5 (left), towards the Blue Temple (right).

Pyramid 5 and the Pyramid of the Niches. Pyramid 5 is in the foreground and Pyramid of the Niches is in the background.

Pyramid 5. East face of Pyramid 5, seen from the east.

Blue Temple (left) and Pyramid 23 (right). Pyramid 23 was built very late in Tajin's history. It consists of five stories in near vertical talud without niches. The original staircase was destroyed then reworked into its present form. The divider in the center is a buttress to hold the fill behind the stairs in place. The stairs are made from a mixture of lime, sand and clay without a stone core. The interior of the building is composed of loose stone, mostly rounded river boulders. At the top, there the temple was located, is a series of stepped merlons which look like medieval European battlements.

Pyramid 5 and the Pyramid of the Niches. Pyramid 5 is on the left and the Pyramid of the Niches is in the center.

The Pyramid of the Niches. This pyramid has as a number of names, including El Tajín, Pyramid of Papantla, Pyramid of the Seven Stories and the Temple of the Niches. It has become the focus of the site because of its unusual design and good state of preservation. It was prominent in ancient times as well. A large quantity of sculpture was recovered from this pyramid. The building is mostly constructed of carefully cut and crafted flagstones, the largest of which is estimated to be about eight metric tons in weight. The stones, especially around the niches are fitted together as to need a minimum amount of lime and earth mortar. The structure originally was covered in stucco which served as the base for paint.

The Pyramid of the Niches. The pyramid has seven stories. Each of these consists of a sloping base wall called a talud and a vertical wall called a tablero, which was fairly common in Mesoamerica. What is unusual about this construction and others in the city are the addition of decorative niches with the top capped by what Jose Garcia Payon called a "flying cornice", a triangular overhang. The stones are arranged in controlled lines and delicate proportions. Originally the structure was painted a dark red with the niches in black intended to deepen the shadows of the recessed niches. Niches are also found underneath the stairway along the east face, which indicates that the stairway was a later addition. The niches on the original structure, not counting those on the later stairway, total 365, the solar year. At the top of the pyramid there were tablets framed by grotesque serpent-dragons.

The Pyramid of the Niches. The ritual function of the building is not primarily calendaric. The deep niches imitate caves, which long have been considered to be passageways to the underworld, where many of the gods reside. Caves, especially those with springs, have been considered sacred in much of Mexico with offerings of flowers and candles being traditional. As late as the mid 20th century, remains of beeswax candles could still be found left on the first level of this pyramid. There is a popular belief that each niche contained an idol or effigy but archeological work here has ruled this out. The most important part of the structure was the temple that was on top of this pyramid; however, this was completely destroyed and little is known about what it might have looked like.

The Pyramid of the Niches. Sculpture from the temple is largely fragmentary. The larger tablets have depictions of the rain god, or a ruler dressed as the deity, involved in several ritual or mythological scenes. This seems to have been the most important god of the culture as other depictions are found in other places at the site. His appearance here underlies the significance of this pyramid. The stairway to the temple is adorned on the sides with frets, which are called xicalcoliuhqui. It is thought to symbolize lightning and while it is common in Mesoamerica, it is a very prominent motif here. These frets were probably painted blue as they were on other buildings, where remains of paint have been found. At the top of the stairway were probably two large three-dimensional stelae. One has survived mostly intact and is now in the site museum. Off the stairs and leading east from the pyramid are large round stone with holes in the middle, in which were probably placed banners. The interior of the pyramid is rocks and earth. This fill is strained between the sloping walls which become the taluds of each level of the pyramid. Buried under all of this is a smaller stricter with taluds but no niches.

The Acropolis (top left). Tajin Chico is a multilevel portion of the site that stretches north-northwest from the older parts of the city up a hill. Much of this section was created by using massive amounts of landfill. It is an immense acropolis composed of numerous palaces and other civil structures. There are relatively few temples here. It is also more easily defended than other parts of the city. Tajin Chico is so named because it was initially thought to be a separate but related site. It is now known that it belonged to the center of the city. However, as the term was already in the literature about the site, it has stuck.

Walking towards the North Ballcourt.

North Ballcourt. The North Ballcourt is constructed by three layers of large flagstones. There are six carved panels with ritual scenes and an ornamental frieze that runs along both walls. The court is 27m (87 feet) long, which is considered to be unusually small and has vertical rather than sloping walls. It is probably one of the oldest structures at Tajín. Portions of the panels and friezes are worn to the point that large areas are incomplete. The four end panels have scenes relating to the ritual of the ball game that result in entreaties to the gods. The central panels depict the gods responding or performing a ritual of their own. Variant forms of the god of pulque appear over each of the end panels, suggesting that the drink was an important part of the ritual. The southeast, east and northwest panels show a ruler on a throne. The southwest panel has a figure dressed as an eagle seated in a vat of liquid, probably pulque, and being fed by a female figure on the left and a male on the right. The deteriorated north central panel shows two cross-legged figures facing each other. One is seated on a throne and the other by a pulque vat. In the center are two intertwined serpents which seem to form the shape of a tlaxmalactl or ball game marker. The friezes running along the upper edges of the court are composed of interlocking scroll figures, each containing a central element of a head and an eye. Many have feathered headdresses and reptilian attributes and a few are human like.

Walking towards the Great Xicalcoluihqui.

The Great Xicalcoluihqui (south side). The Great Xicalcoluihqui, or the Great Enclosure, is a wall, which from above forms a giant stepped fret and encloses about 129,000 square feet (12,000 m2).

The Great Xicalcoluihqui (east side). This structure is unique among Mesoamerican sites and contains two or three small ballcourts.

The Great Xicalcoluihqui (east side). There are more than a hundred niches in this wall, broken up by a number of entrances.

The Great Xicalcoluihqui (north side). The sides of the enclosure are formed by a slender platform with sloping sides and free standing niches, resembling the Pyramid of the Niches. Here is the northernmost point of our route. From here we'll walk south back to the entrance.

Walking towards an unexcavated structure. Walking towards an as yet unexcavated structure located immediately south of the Great Xicalcoluihqui.

Unexcavated structure. Unexcavated structure located immediately south of the Great Xicalcoluihqui.

Pyramide 23 (left), Blue Temple (center) and the Pyramid of the Niches (right). They are seen from the northeast.

Pyramide 23 (left), Blue Temple (center left), the Pyramid of the Niches (center), Pyramid 4 (center right) and the North Ballcourt (right). They are seen from the northeast.

Pyramide 15 (center) and Pyramid 5 (right). They are seen from the northeast.

Pyramide 15 (left), the Pyramid of the Niches (center), Blue Temple (center right), Pyramid 23 (right). They are seen from the east.

Blue Temple (left) and Pyramid 23 (right). They are seen from the southeast

Pyramide 15 (right) and Pyramid 16 (far center). They are seen from the northeast. At this point we find the crossroads of the cobbled path that we had previously turned left.

Venus Ballcourt. The Venus Ballcourt is located east of Piramyd 14.

Venus Ballcourt. Venus Ballcourt with Pyramid 26 behind. Pyramid 18 is in the background.

Venus Ballcourt. Venus Ballcourt with Pyramid 26 behind. Pyramid 18 is in the background.

Venus Ballcourt (right) and Pyramid 18 (left). They are seen from the northeast.

Pyramid 26 (center) and the Venus Ballcourt (right). They are seen from the northeast.

Pyramid 26 (left), Pyramid 16 (center) and the Venus Ballcourt (right). They are seen from the east.

Pyramid 18. Seen from the northeast.

Pyramid 19. Seen from the east.

Leaving El Tajín.

See also

• Danza de los Voladores

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Sources

• El Tajín - Wikipedia
• El Tajín - Lugares INAH

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Location