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Tongdosa Temple

Tongdosa ("Salvation of the World through Mastery of Truth") is a head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism and in the southern part of Mt. Chiseosan near Yangsan, South Gyeongsang Province, South Korea.

Tongdosa is one of the Three Jewels Temples and represents Gautama Buddha. (Haeinsa, also in South Gyeongsang Province, represents the dharma or Buddhist teachings; and Songgwangsa in South Jeolla Province represents the sangha or Buddhist community.)

Tongdosa is famous because there are no statues outside of the Buddha at the temple because the "real shrines of the Buddha" (relics) are preserved at Tongdosa. Courtyards at the temple are arrayed around several pagodas that house the Buddha's relics.

Tongdosa Temple map.
Korea's largest temple, Tongdosa, is often called "the temple without a Buddha" because it contains no outdoor statues of the Buddha; rather it is arranged around several stupas which contain Jajang-yulsa's relics of the historical Buddha.

  • The road that meanders up to the temple wanders through a forest called "Pine trees dancing in the wind".
  • 65 buildings separately house a shrine for virtually every major Buddhist deity.
  • The temple does not seem especially large because many of the buildings are dispersed throughout the surrounding mountainside.
  • 13 hermitages can be found on the temple complex grounds.

Washbasin before entering the temple.

Crossing the bridge in front of the Memorials (Budowon).
The Budowon, a collection of stupas and tombstones of high monks, is located next to the mountain gate.

  • Budowon is a place where pagodas and monuments are built to enshrine the relics of successive monks. The stupas and tombstones enshrined here were originally scattered around, but were moved to their current location in 1993 under the instructions of Venerable Wolha. Around 60 stupas and 50 stele of outstanding ascetics and great monks who worked for Tongdosa from the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 to the present are enshrined, symbolizing the legitimacy and shooting of Tongdosa. (Information, Tongdosa Temple, Yangsan, 2017)

The first entrance to Tongdosa Temple.
It is a large mountain gate in the form of three gates and hangs a signboard with the words ‘Yeongchuk Chongrim’ written on it.

  • It appears to have been built recently.

Temple guardian posts (Jangseung).
A jangseung or village guardian is a Korean totem pole usually made of wood. Jangseungs were traditionally placed at the edges of villages to mark village boundaries and frighten away demons. They were also worshipped as village tutelary deities.

  • Jangseungs are usually adorned with inscriptions describing the personae of the carved figures along the front of the poles. "Male" jangseungs usually bear inscriptions in Hangul or Hanja reading "Great General of All Under Heaven," and are decorated with headpieces resembling those worn by Korean aristocrats or scholars. "Female" jangseungs, on the other hand, wear less elaborate headpieces and usually bear inscriptions reading "Female General of the Underworld," or "Great General of the Underworld."
  • Depending on the location or affiliation, jangseung can be divided into village guardian, temple guardian, and public guardian. The village guardian is the god of dongje, and has the functions of village guardian, mural, expelling the harmful ghosts, fire prevention, and gathering happiness for the village. The temple guardian post has the function of protecting the temple from the invisible evil spirits. The temple guardian is the boundary mark of the temple. The public guardian is a milestone and a street god to protect the safety of the gate, barracks, and roads and sea roads.
  • See more at Jangseung - Wikipedia.

Museum.
A museum on the temple grounds displays a collection of artwork.


One Mind Bridge (Samseongbanwol).
Approaching the entrance the first bridge one sees is Samseongbanwol — Three Arch Bridge — meaning three stars and a half moon, sometimes also called the One Mind Bridge.

  • The Chinese character is composed of four strokes; when applying the strokes to the name of the bridge, the long stroke stands for a half moon and the others, three stars.

One-Pillar Gate (Iljumun).
The first gate to the temple, Iljumun, is called the One-Pillar Gate because when viewed from the side the gate appears to be supported by a single pillar.

  • This symbolizes the support of the world and the one true path of enlightenment.
  • Iljumun is the boundary between the spiritual world and the secular world.

Gate of the Four Heavenly Kings.
The following gate is the Gate of the Guardians of the Four Directions or Four Heavenly Kings, each of whom watches over one cardinal direction.

  • They are the protectors of the world and fighters of evil, each able to command a legion of supernatural creatures to protect the Dharma (Buddhist teachings).
  • See more at Four Heavenly Kings - Wikipedia.

Vaisravana (Kubera), he who hears everything.
This is the chief of the four kings and protector of the north. He is the ruler of rain. His symbolic weapons are the umbrella or pagoda. Wearing heavy armor and carrying the umbrella in his right hand, he is often associated with the ancient Sri Lankan god of wealth, Kubera.


Virudhaka, he who causes to grow.
King of the south and one who causes good growth of roots. He is the ruler of the wind. His symbolic weapon is the sword which he carries in his right hand to protect the Dharma and the southern continent.


Dhrtarastra, he who upholds the realm.
King of the east and god of music. His symbolic weapon is the pipa (stringed instrument). He is harmonious and compassionate and protects all beings. Uses his music to convert others to Buddhism.


Virupaksa, he who sees all.
King of the west and one who sees all. His symbolic weapon is a snake or red cord that is representative of a dragon. As the eye in the sky, he sees people who do not believe in Buddhism and converts them. His ancient name means "he who has broad objectives".


Garamgak Shrine.
This is Garamgak, a small hall next to Cheonwangmun Gate.

  • It is a space to enshrine the local deity who protects the temple site.

Three-story stone pagoda.
A three-story stone pagoda (Treasure No. 1471) built in the yard of the Harojeon area. It is a three-story stone pagoda with a height of 3.9 m, with a third-story pagoda body placed on top of a two-story stylobate. Judging from the stylistic features of the stone pagoda, it is presumed to have been built in the late 9th century, the end of Unified Silla.

  • The Harojeon area, the first area of Tongdosa Temple. It is a space that serves as a model for the arrangement of Buddhist temples in the Joseon Dynasty, with the main Buddha Hall, Yeongsanjeon, as the center, and the Buddhist hall, auditorium, and yosachae are appropriately arranged.

Bell tower (Beomjonglu).

Paradise Hall (Geuknakbojeon).
Geuknakbojeon is located on the eastern side of the yard. This is a Buddhist temple that enshrines Amata Nyorai and the back side is splendidly decorated with paintings and murals.

  • Amitabha is the primary Buddha of Pure Land Buddhism. In Vajrayana Buddhism, he is known for his longevity, discernment, pure perception, purification of aggregates, and deep awareness of emptiness. He possesses infinite merit resulting from good deeds over countless past lives as a bodhisattva named Dharmakara.
  • Amida Nyorai is widely known for the practice of chanting "Namu Amida Butsu," the six syllables of his sacred name, in the Pure Land tradition of Buddhism. In the Pure Land (Jodoshu) and True Pure Land (Jodoshinshu) Schools, Amida Nyorai is the main deity, and spiritual peace of mind lies in being able to attain salvation by relying on his power.
  • See more at Amitābha - Wikipedia.

Hall of Eight Pictures (Palsangjeon Hall).
This is Palsangjeon (Treasure No. 1826), the main Buddha Hall in the Harojeon area. The building is a building with a gabled roof with 3 kan in front and is decorated with splendid dancheong and daffodils.

  • Inside Palsangjeon, Palsangdo depicting the life of Shakyamuni is enshrined, and a total of 50 murals (Treasure No. 1711), including the Gyeonbotap Mural depicting Dabotap, are painted on the inside walls. Yeongsan Hoesangtaeng (Treasure No. 1353) and Palsangdo (Treasure No. 1041) are enshrined here.
  • When Shakyamuni Buddha preached the Dharma on Yeongchwisan Mountain, a pagoda of Daboyeorae rose from the ground, and a picture depicting the scene of Beophwagyeong Gyeonbotappum where Shakyamuni Buddha entered and sat side by side, as well as pictures depicting the achievements of Shakyamuni and other high priests around it.
  • Though configurations for the paintings can vary, the most common is: 1. Descending from Tusita, 2. Heaven, 3. Preparing for Birth, 4. Birth, 5. Leaving Home, 6. Overcoming Mara, the Spirit of Evil, 7. Achieving Enlightenment, 8. Teaching the Dharma, 9. Entering Nirvana.

Medicine Buddha Hall (Yakushi Nyorai Hall).
This is a Buddhist temple that enshrines Yakushi Nyorai and was largely rebuilt in the early 19th century.

  • Inside, only the Yakushi Nyorai Buddha statue is enshrined, and there is a painting of the Yakushi Buddha on the back.
  • See more at Bhaisajyaguru - Wikipedia.

Gate of Non-Duality (Purimun Gate).
Next comes the third gate of the temple, Purimun, known as the Gate of Non-Duality. The world across this gate is one of non-duality, where there is no distinction between the Buddha and human beings, being and non-being, good and evil, and fullness and emptiness. During Purimun's long history the gate has been rebuilt many times.

  • The present Gate of Non-Duality was constructed in the late Joseon Dynasty and was built to line up straight with the One Pillar Gate, Guardian Gate, and Daeungjeon (main Dharma hall).
  • Purimun, the Gate of Non-Duality, is designated South Gyeongsang Provincial Tangible Cultural Property #252.

Temple protector dragon.
When the Korean kingdoms adopted Buddhism during the fourth century the dragon became the most important divinity of Korea. During the period that Buddhism was the official religion the dragon was actively worshipped. Halls in palaces were dedicated to the dragon.

  • Legend has it that at the time of Tongdosa's founding there were nine evil dragons living in a big pond. Jajang-yulsa enjoined the dragons to leave by reciting a magic texts. They refused to leave so Jajang-yulsa inscribed the Chinese character for fire on a sheet of paper and tossed it skyward while using his long stick to splash the pond.
  • The water began to boil. The dragons could not endure the heat so three tried to escape and flew off, became disoriented, and died by colliding into a cliff called Yonghyeolam ("dragon blood rock"). Five of the dragons flew southwest into a valley now called Oryonggok ("five dragon valley").
  • The last dragon, blinded by the heat, made a vow to Jajang-yulsa that if he spared his life and allowed him to stay in the pond forever, the blind dragon would always guard the temple. Jajang-yulsa granted the dragon's request and the dragon was allowed to stay as protector of the temple.

Guanyin Hall (Gwaneumjeon Hall).
Gwaneumjeon is located in front of the Jungrojeon area. This building was rebuilt in the late Joseon Dynasty and has 3 rooms in the front and 3 rooms in the side. There are no pillars inside the building, so the space is widely used. There is a large stone lantern in front of the Buddha.

  • Inside the Guanyinjeon Hall, Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva is enshrined alone, and you can see murals depicting various forms of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva on the wall. There is also a door at the back, giving a spacious and bright atmosphere.
  • Avalokitesvara is a bodhisattva who contains the compassion of all Buddhas and is the principal attendant of Amitabha Buddha. He has 108 avatars, the most notable of which is Padmapani (the lotus bearer). He is variably depicted, described, and portrayed as either male or female in different cultures. Guanyin is one of the female depictions of Avalokiteśvara that appears in East Asia.
  • See more at Avalokiteśvara - Wikipedia.

Sangrojeon area with Geumgang stairs.
The area of Sangnojeon in Tongdosa Temple is not separated from Jungnojeon and the space is arranged so that it is connected to Daeungjeon when entering the Buuimun.

  • This is Sangrojeon, the third area of Tongdosa Temple, located at the foot of Mt. Yeongchuk in Jisan-ri, Habuk-myeon, Yangsan-si, Gyeongsangnam-do.
  • When you enter Buimun, there is a road from Jungrojeon yard to Daeungjeon without a separate entrance, and Jungrojeon halls are located on the right.
  • It is said that when Tongdosa Temple was founded, Master Jajang built a staircase and instructed him to attain the Way, and it became the fundamental precepts of Buddhism in Silla. At the time of its establishment, it was a small scale centered on the Geumgang Stairs, but it has been greatly expanded since the Goryeo Dynasty and reached today.

Sejon's angle.
At Tongdosa Temple, there is a stele that records the history of enshrining the relics of Shakyamuni Buddha.


Main Worship Hall (Daeungjeon Hall).
Daeungjeon Hall (National Treasure No. 290) is located in front of the Geumgang Stairs. There is a Geumgang Stairs at the back of the building as a space for worshiping Buddha, and there is no separate Buddha statue in Daeungjeon Hall.

  • Daeungjeon Hall has a ‘T’-shaped plane with 3 rooms in the front and 5 rooms in the side. It was made to look like the front when viewed from each direction. The signboard reads ‘Daeungjeon’ on the east, ‘Geumgang Stairs’ on the south, ‘Daebanggwangjeon’ on the west, and ‘Jeokmyeolbogung’ on the north.

Diamond Altar (Geumgang Gyedan).
Geumgang Gyedan (Diamond Altar) behind Daeungjeon (main Dharma Hall).

  • Tongdosa is the ‘Buddha Jewel Temple’ because it enshrines Sari Jinsin (the Buddha’s relics) in the Geumgang Gyedan (Diamond Altar), a platform for the ceremony prevailing Buddhist precepts, behind Daeungjeon (main Dharma Hall).
  • There is no image of the Buddha or Bodhisattvas, as is typically found in a worship hall, in Tongdosa. Instead a Buddhist altar that spans east to west inside along the front with a window, in the place of a Buddha image, looks out on the Geumgang Gyedan (Diamond Altar).

Nine Dragons Pond (Guryongji).
The small pond called Guryongji (Nine Dragons Pond) is located between the Eungjinjeon and Daeungjeon.

  • The last dragon made a vow to Jajang-yulsa that if he spared his life and allowed him to stay in the pond forever, the dragon would always guard the temple. Jajang-yulsa granted the dragon's request and the dragon was allowed to stay as protector of the temple.
  • Nine Dragons Pond, now called Guryongji, still stands beside the main temple hall.

Mountain Spirit Shrine (Sanryeonggak Shrine).
Sanshin or Sansin are local mountain-spirits in Korean Shamanism and folk-beliefs.

  • In South Korea, most Buddhist temples and major Shamanic-shrines, and some traditionalist villages, have a dedicated shrine called a sanshin-gak or an altar called a sanshin-dan dedicated to the local sanshin.
  • This nature-deity is typically represented in the enshrined icons (paintings and/or statues) as an elder male (in rare cases, mature female) figure in royal-Confucian clothing, always accompanied by at least one tiger and a Korean Red Pine tree.
  • See more at Mountain God - Wikipedia.

Three Saints Shrine (Samseonggak Shrine).
Most Samseonggak have three icon-paintings (taenghwa) on the wall above the altars. Tongdo Temple also has a Samsangak like any other temple.

  • In the center is the Big Dipper God Hall (Chiseonggwang Hall).
  • On the right side is the Lonely Saint Hall (Dokseong Hall).
  • On the left side are the portraits of Jigong Daehwasang, Naongdaejongsa, and Muhak Daehwasang, who prospered Buddhism in the late Goryeo and early Joseon Dynasty.
  • Usually, the Samseonggak places the Big Dipper God (Chiseonggwang) at the center and enshrines Dokseong and the Mountain God, but Tongdosa’s Samseonggak is quite different from the other temples. At Tongdosa the Mountain God was enshrined separately inside an independent building, the Sanryeonggak, right next to it.

The Lonely Saint Hall (Dokseong Hall).
Another shaman deity that you can find at a Buddhist temple in Korea is Dokseong, or “The Lonely Saint,” in English. The reason he’s called this is because he’s away from the Historical Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul.

  • Dokseong is also sometimes referred to as Naban-jonja.
  • It’s believed that Dokseong was a Nahan, one of the original disciples of the Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul.
  • It’s even been suggested that Dokseong was one of Seokgamoni-bul’s original disciples: Pindola.
  • Dokseong will remain on Earth to help those in need of his support as a form of punishment for his careless performance of miracles. As a result, Dokseong will remain on Earth until Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) appears in 5.67 billion years.
  • Dokseong acts as a bridge between the past Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul and the Future Buddha. Put another way, Dokseong will be the only one to have met both the present and future Buddha in his lifetime.

Big Dipper God Hall (Chiseonggwang Hall).
Chiseonggwang is enshrined in the center of Samseonggak building.

  • In this painting from the temple's Three Sages Shrine, the Big Dipper God (center, portrayed as a Buddha) is surrounded by: (1) Sun and Moon (center top, gold halos); (2) the Seven Stars of the Big Dipper (green halos, attired like Buddhas); (3) Seven Star Officials (in Daoist attire); and (4) the Moonlight and Sunlight Bodhisattvas (bottom center), holding representations of the moon (viewer's left) and sun (viewer's right). These are folk deities assimilated from Chinese Daoism into Buddhism.
  • Big Dipper (Chilseong) iconography strongly parallels that of Bhaishajyaguru. The Medicine Buddha, like the Big Dipper God, is attended by Moonlight and Sunlight Bodhisattvas. Furthermore he has Seven Emanations (corresponding to the Seven Stars), and each emanation originated on a new day of the week (corresponding to the Seven Officials).
  • See more at Big Dipper - Wikipedia.

Hall of the Attained Ones (Nahanjeon Hall).
Eungjinjeon – also known as Nahanjeon and dedicated to the 16 disciples of Buddha. The shrine was originally built in 1677 by Buddhist Priest Ji Seom, and has been renovated several times with no specific dates given.

  • The Nahanjeon Hall is dedicated to the historical disciples of the Buddha. The Korean word Nahan is a transliteration of “Arhat,” a Sankrit word. And while less accomplished than a Bodhisattva, Nahan are still an exulted and important part of the Buddhist pantheon of religious figures. Nahan carry on the tradition of the Dharma (Buddhist teachings) from generation to generation. Furthermore, the Nahan were instrumental in spreading the message of Buddhism throughout the world. And an important part in continuing this tradition is the Nahanjeon Hall, which is an embodiment of the highest form that an earthly human can achieve in Buddhism. Simply put, Buddhas and Bodhisattvas are otherworldly, Nahan are not yet.
  • As for inside a Nahanjeon Hall, you’ll typically find sixteen Nahan statues or paintings inside this shrine hall. They surround the central figure of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who sits on the main altar and can be joined either by Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power), or Yeondeung-bul (The Past Buddha) and Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha).

Preaching Dharma Hall (Seolbeopjeon Hall) .
Across the large, open courtyard from the Daeungjeon, the Seolbeopjeon, the most recently constructed and largest lecture hall, demarcates the southern boundary of the third precinct.

  • In front of the Daeungjeon, the Seolbeopjeon, reportedly the largest lecture hall in Korea, was recently constructed to accommodate as many as three thousand lay believers. This large-scale architectural intervention in the precinct of the Daeungjeon will certainly cause another subsequent change in the architectural configuration of Tongdosa.

Myeongbujeon Hall.
Myeongbujeon – referring to the afterworld or hell. It has also been called the Jijangjeon because hell is presided over by the Jijangbosal (Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva).

  • People come here to pray to Ksitgarbha (who postponed becoming a Buddha to help all sentient beings in the living world, the netherworld, and the six worlds in-between) for the rebirth of their ancestors in paradise.
  • See more at Kṣitigarbha - Wikipedia.

See also

Source

Location

Location: 108 Tongdosa-ro, Habuk-myeon, Yangsan-si, Gyeongsangnam-do, South Korea