Mompox River Cruise, Colombia

A boat cruise on the Mompox arm of the Magdalena River in Colombia offers a serene and immersive journey through one of the country's most historically rich and ecologically vibrant regions. Departing from the colonial town of Santa Cruz de Mompox—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—the cruise takes you along a tranquil tributary of the Magdalena, Colombia’s principal river. This two-and-a-half-hour experience reveals the lush riverside landscapes that once made Mompox a vital trading post during the Spanish colonial era.

As you glide along the water, the scenery is a tapestry of dense vegetation, mangroves, and wetlands teeming with life. Birdwatchers are in for a treat: herons, kingfishers, and cormorants are commonly spotted, and the area is known for its rich avian biodiversity. The cruise also passes through the village of Troncosito Magdalena, offering picturesque views and a glimpse into the daily life of riverside communities.

Beyond the natural beauty, the cruise is a cultural voyage. Mompox itself is a town frozen in time, with cobbled streets, colonial churches, and a vibrant tradition of filigree jewelry-making. Many longer Magdalena River cruises include a two-day stop in Mompox, allowing travelers to explore its music scene, artisan markets, and nearby wetlands like Ciénaga Pijiño, where wildlife abounds.

Whether you're on a short local boat ride or a multi-day river cruise from Cartagena to Barranquilla, the Mompox stretch of the Magdalena offers a unique blend of history, biodiversity, and cultural richness. It’s a journey that captures the soul of Colombia’s Caribbean heartland.

Boarding at the Mompox Tourist Pier (Muelle Turistico)

The boat heads north

On the shore we can see the Oratory of the Immaculate Conception (Oratorio Inmaculada Concepción)

The boat is covered for greater passenger comfort

Basilisk lizards
Basilisk lizards, often nicknamed “Jesus lizards” for their remarkable ability to run across the surface of water, are a captivating sight along the banks of the Magdalena River near Mompox.

These agile reptiles thrive in the warm, humid environment of the La Mojana region—a vast network of wetlands, lakes, and river channels fed by the Magdalena and Cauca rivers. The lush vegetation and abundant insect life make this an ideal habitat for basilisks, which are commonly seen darting across leafy canals and sunning themselves on riverbank branches.
In Mompox, boat tours through the surrounding ciénagas (wetlands) offer a chance to spot these nimble creatures in action. As the boats glide through narrow waterways shaded by overhanging trees, it’s not uncommon to see a basilisk suddenly dash across the water’s surface, propelled by its long toes and lightweight frame. This dramatic escape tactic is not just a spectacle—it’s a survival strategy, allowing the lizard to evade predators like birds and snakes.
The presence of basilisks adds to the rich biodiversity of the Mompox region, which is also home to a wide variety of birds, amphibians, and aquatic life. The interplay of water and land in this low-lying floodplain creates a dynamic ecosystem where species have adapted to the seasonal rhythms of rising and receding waters. For nature lovers and photographers, the chance to witness a basilisk’s water-walking feat is a highlight of any visit to this lesser-known corner of Colombia.
In a place where time seems to slow and colonial architecture meets wild nature, the basilisk lizard is a perfect symbol of the unexpected wonders that await in Mompox. It’s a reminder that even in the quietest corners of the Magdalena River, life pulses with energy and surprise.

Great Egrets
Great Egrets (Ardea alba) are among the most iconic and elegant birds found along the banks of the Magdalena River near Mompox. With their striking white plumage, long S-shaped necks, and slender black legs, these birds are a common and graceful presence in the wetlands and floodplains of the region. They are often seen wading slowly through shallow waters or standing motionless, waiting to spear fish, frogs, or insects with their sharp yellow bills.

These birds thrive in the warm, marshy environments surrounding Mompox, particularly in the ciénagas—seasonal wetlands that form a vital part of the Magdalena River’s ecosystem. Great Egrets are highly adaptable and can be found in both freshwater and brackish habitats, including mangroves, lagoons, and riverbanks. Their presence is a sign of a healthy wetland, as they rely on abundant aquatic life to sustain their diet.
During the breeding season, Great Egrets develop long, delicate plumes on their backs, which they use in elaborate courtship displays. Historically, these feathers were so prized for fashion that the species was nearly hunted to extinction in the early 20th century. Conservation efforts have since helped their populations recover, and today they are a symbol of wetland preservation, even serving as the emblem of the National Audubon Society.
In Mompox, spotting a Great Egret silhouetted against the golden light of sunset is a quintessential experience. Whether gliding overhead with their necks tucked in or stalking prey in the shallows, these birds add a sense of timeless beauty to the Magdalena River landscape. Their quiet presence reflects the slow rhythm of life in this colonial town, where nature and history flow together like the river itself.

A Biguá bird hanging from dry branches in the middle of the river
The Neotropic Cormorant (Nannopterum brasilianum), locally known in parts of South America as biguá, is a medium-sized waterbird commonly seen along the banks of the Magdalena River in Colombia.

With its sleek black plumage, long neck, and hooked bill, it is well adapted to life in aquatic environments.
These birds are expert divers, using their webbed feet to propel themselves underwater in pursuit of fish, their primary diet.
After fishing, they are often seen perched on rocks or branches with wings outstretched, drying their feathers—a characteristic behavior of cormorants due to their less water-repellent plumage.
In the humid lowlands and wetlands of the Magdalena basin, the Neotropic Cormorant thrives in both freshwater and brackish habitats, including rivers, lakes, and mangrove-lined shores.
They nest in colonies, often in trees or shrubs near water, and their presence is a strong indicator of a healthy aquatic ecosystem.
While widespread and listed as a species of Least Concern by the IUCN, their populations are still sensitive to water pollution and habitat degradation.
Along the Magdalena, they are part of a vibrant bird community that includes herons, ibises, and kingfishers, making the region a haven for birdwatchers and conservationists alike.

Children bathing in the river next to the small riverside community
The small riverside communities along the Magdalena River, especially near Mompox, live in close harmony with the river that shapes every aspect of their daily lives.

These settlements, often composed of modest wooden or brick homes perched near the water’s edge, rely on the river for transportation, fishing, and even recreation.
In the heat of the tropical afternoons, it’s common to see children laughing and splashing in the river’s shallows, their carefree play a timeless scene that speaks to the deep bond between the people and the waterway that sustains them.
In the Mompox region, the river is more than a backdrop—it’s the heart of the community. Families gather along the banks to wash clothes, launch fishing boats, or simply cool off in the shade of ceiba trees.
The children, in particular, grow up with the Magdalena as their playground and classroom, learning to swim almost as soon as they can walk.
Despite the challenges of rural life—limited infrastructure, seasonal flooding, and economic hardship—these communities maintain a strong sense of identity and resilience, rooted in traditions passed down through generations.

A Turkey Vulture
The Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura) is a familiar and important presence along the banks of the Magdalena River.

With its broad wings, dark plumage, and distinctive red, featherless head, this scavenger is easily recognized as it soars in wide circles over the river and surrounding wetlands. It is one of the most widespread vultures in the Americas, ranging from southern Canada to the southern tip of South America, and it thrives in the open and semi-open landscapes of the Magdalena basin.
In the Mompox region and other lowland areas along the river, Turkey Vultures play a crucial ecological role as nature’s cleanup crew. They feed primarily on carrion, using their keen sense of smell—unusual among birds—to locate decaying animals. This helps prevent the spread of disease and contributes to the health of the ecosystem. They are often seen perched on trees or fence posts near the river, or gliding effortlessly on thermals, scanning the ground below.
Despite their somewhat ominous appearance, Turkey Vultures are non-aggressive and highly adapted to their niche. Their presence is a sign of a functioning food web, and they coexist with other scavengers like the Black Vulture and the Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture. In the Magdalena River region, where livestock, fishing, and wildlife all intersect, the Turkey Vulture is both a symbol of the wild and a quiet guardian of the land’s natural balance.

A local man rests on the riverbank next to his two boats

A Great Egret perched in the branches of a tree

Traditional thatched houses
Traditional thatched houses along the banks of the Magdalena River, particularly in rural areas near Mompox, are known as ranchos—simple, vernacular dwellings that reflect centuries of adaptation to the tropical climate and riverine environment. These homes are typically constructed using locally available materials such as wood, cane, and palm fronds. The steeply pitched thatched roofs, often made from palm leaves or grasses, are designed to shed heavy rainfall efficiently while providing excellent insulation from the intense heat.

Historically, these thatched houses were built by Afro-Colombian and Indigenous communities who settled along the riverbanks. Their construction techniques were passed down through generations, blending African, Indigenous, and Spanish influences. The homes are usually elevated slightly on stilts or earthen platforms to protect against seasonal flooding, a common occurrence in the Magdalena’s floodplain. Inside, the layout is open and airy, with few interior walls, allowing for ventilation and communal living.
Though many of these traditional homes have been replaced by concrete structures in recent decades, some still remain in smaller villages and isolated areas. They serve not only as dwellings but also as cultural markers—symbols of a way of life deeply connected to the rhythms of the river. In places like the village of Troncosito near Mompox, visitors on boat tours can still glimpse these rustic homes nestled among mangroves and ceibas, their thatched roofs blending harmoniously with the natural landscape.
These houses are more than just architecture—they are living expressions of resilience and ingenuity. Built with minimal tools and maximum knowledge of the environment, they embody a sustainable approach to building that modern design is only beginning to rediscover. In the Magdalena River basin, they stand as quiet witnesses to centuries of riverine life, storytelling, and survival.

A Crested Caracara
The Carcará, or Crested Caracara (Caracara plancus), is a striking bird of prey that can occasionally be seen along the banks of the Magdalena River, including the wetlands and open areas near Mompox. Unlike most raptors, the Carcará is often found walking on the ground, scavenging for food or hunting small animals like lizards, snakes, and insects. With its long legs, dark body, pale neck, and distinctive orange-red facial skin, it cuts a bold figure whether perched on a fence post or striding through a field.

This bird thrives in open habitats—savannas, grasslands, and riverbanks—where it can easily spot carrion or prey. Opportunistic and highly adaptable, the Carcará is known for its intelligence and bold behavior. It’s not uncommon to see one boldly approaching human settlements or livestock areas in search of scraps. In flight, it displays striking white patches on its wings and tail, making it easy to identify against the sky.
Though not as commonly associated with the Magdalena River as herons or egrets, the Carcará plays an important ecological role as both predator and scavenger. Its presence in the region reflects the rich mosaic of habitats that the river supports—from dense wetlands to open pastures. In the Mompox area, where traditional ranching and fishing coexist with wild landscapes, the Carcará is a fitting symbol of the intersection between nature and rural life.
For birdwatchers and nature lovers exploring the Magdalena’s banks, spotting a Carcará is a memorable experience. Its confident demeanor, striking appearance, and unusual behavior set it apart from other raptors, adding a touch of drama to the already vibrant avian life of Colombia’s great river.

Fishermen fishing in the river
The Magdalena River is home to an incredibly diverse array of freshwater fish species—over 200 have been documented in its basin. Among the most notable are bocachico (Prochilodus magdalenae), a migratory fish that plays a central role in local diets and economies, as well as catfish species like Pseudoplatystoma magdaleniatum and Rhamdia quelen. Other species include tilapia, pavón (peacock bass), and various types of characins and armored catfish. These fish are not only ecologically important but also culturally significant, forming the backbone of traditional riverside cuisine and livelihoods.

Fishing along the Magdalena, especially near towns like Mompox, is largely artisanal and deeply rooted in ancestral knowledge. Local fishers use a variety of traditional techniques, including cast nets, gill nets, hooks, and handmade traps. Tools like the malluda, chinchorro, and chinchorra—types of nets with different mesh sizes and uses—are common in the region. These methods are often passed down through generations and are adapted to the river’s seasonal rhythms, particularly the migratory patterns of fish like the bocachico, which moves upstream to spawn during the rainy season.
Fishing is typically done from small wooden canoes or dugouts, and the activity is often communal, with families or small groups working together. The riverbanks and nearby wetlands serve as both fishing grounds and temporary campsites during peak fishing seasons. Despite its cultural richness, the fishing tradition has faced challenges in recent decades due to overfishing, pollution, and habitat degradation. Once producing over 80,000 tons of fish annually in the 1970s, the Magdalena’s fisheries now yield only a fraction of that amount.
Still, artisanal fishing remains a vital part of life along the Magdalena, especially in regions like Mompox where the river is central to identity and survival. Efforts are underway to restore fish populations and protect the ecological health of the river, often led by local communities themselves. These initiatives aim to balance tradition with sustainability, ensuring that the Magdalena continues to nourish both people and wildlife for generations to come.

A Basilisk lizard basks in the sun on the riverbank

A Great Egret watches the river closely

A Jaçaña bird
The Jaçanãs (family Jacanidae), particularly the species Jacana jacana, are a captivating presence along the banks and wetlands of the Magdalena River near Mompox. These medium-sized wading birds are instantly recognizable by their long, spindly toes and claws, which allow them to walk gracefully across floating vegetation like water lilies and hyacinths. This unique adaptation has earned them the nickname “lily trotters,” and their ability to seemingly walk on water gives them an almost mythical quality in the marshy landscapes they inhabit.

Jaçanãs are most often seen in shallow wetlands, ponds, and flooded grasslands—habitats that are abundant in the Magdalena River’s floodplain. Their plumage is typically a mix of dark body feathers with chestnut or golden-brown mantles, a bright yellow bill, and a red frontal shield. These birds are diurnal and spend their days foraging for insects, snails, and seeds among the aquatic plants. Their presence is a strong indicator of a healthy wetland ecosystem, and they are often spotted during boat tours or quiet walks along the riverbanks near Mompox.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Jaçanã behavior is their reversed sexual roles. In this species, females are larger and more dominant, often maintaining harems of several males. The males are responsible for incubating the eggs and raising the chicks, a rare trait among birds. This matriarchal system is reflected in their territorial behavior, with females competing for access to mates and nesting sites.
In the Magdalena River basin, the Jaçanã is more than just a bird—it’s a symbol of the region’s rich biodiversity and the delicate balance of its aquatic ecosystems. Their elegant movements and unusual social structure make them a favorite among birdwatchers and biologists alike, and their continued presence is a hopeful sign for the conservation of Colombia’s vital wetland habitats.

A Great Egret perched on top of a tree

Hawks
Hawks are a common sight along the banks of the Magdalena River, particularly in the open wetlands and savannas near towns like Mompox.

One of the most frequently observed species in this region is the Savanna Hawk (Buteogallus meridionalis), a large raptor with a striking rufous body, gray head, and long yellow legs. These hawks are well adapted to the river’s floodplains, where they perch on fence posts or tree branches, scanning the ground for prey such as snakes, lizards, frogs, and small mammals.
The Savanna Hawk is a patient hunter, often seen standing still for long periods before swooping down with precision. Its presence is a testament to the ecological richness of the Magdalena River basin, which supports a wide variety of birdlife thanks to its mix of wetlands, grasslands, and forested patches. These hawks are especially active during the dry season, when receding waters expose more hunting grounds and concentrate prey in smaller areas.
In addition to the Savanna Hawk, other raptors such as the Roadside Hawk (Rupornis magnirostris) and the Black-collared Hawk (Busarellus nigricollis) may also be spotted along the river. The Black-collared Hawk, in particular, is closely tied to aquatic environments and is known for its fish-hunting prowess, often diving from low perches to snatch fish from the water’s surface. These birds contribute to the balance of the river’s food web and are a favorite among birdwatchers exploring the Magdalena’s banks.
Whether soaring overhead or perched in silent vigil, hawks bring a sense of wild majesty to the Magdalena River landscape. Their sharp eyes and commanding presence are reminders of the intricate web of life that thrives along Colombia’s most important waterway.

A Basilisk lizard emerges from the river and climbs the bank

A Black-collared Hawk (Busarellus nigricollis)
The Black-collared Hawk (Busarellus nigricollis) is a striking raptor that frequents the wetlands and riverbanks of the Magdalena River in Colombia, including the lush floodplains near Mompox. With its rich cinnamon-brown body, pale whitish head, and the distinctive black crescent-shaped collar on its upper chest, this hawk is both visually arresting and ecologically important. Its large, dark eyes and relatively small, hooked beak are perfectly adapted for its primary diet: fish and aquatic prey.

This hawk is most often seen perched quietly near water, scanning the surface for movement. When it spots a fish or frog, it swoops down with precision, snatching its prey with powerful talons. Unlike many other raptors, the Black-collared Hawk is a wetland specialist, thriving in habitats like mangroves, swamps, and riverine forests. Its presence along the Magdalena is a strong indicator of the health of the aquatic ecosystem, as it relies on clean, fish-rich waters to survive.
Nesting typically occurs in large trees near water, where the hawk builds a platform nest lined with green leaves. The female lays a clutch of three to five eggs, and both parents may be involved in raising the young. Though widespread across tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, the species faces threats from wetland drainage and habitat degradation, which have led to a gradual decline in population in some areas.
In the Magdalena River basin, however, the Black-collared Hawk remains a charismatic and relatively common sight. For birdwatchers and nature lovers exploring the waterways near Mompox, spotting one of these hawks perched above a quiet lagoon or gliding low over the reeds is a memorable experience—one that captures the wild, untamed spirit of Colombia’s great river.

A large Basilisk lizard basks in the afternoon sun

Several Jaçanã birds and a Great Egret taking flight

A dog swims across the river

A Common Black Hawk perched atop a tree
The Common Black Hawk (Buteogallus anthracinus) is a striking bird of prey frequently seen along the banks of the Magdalena River in Colombia. With its broad wings, short tail marked by a bold white band, and entirely dark plumage, it cuts a powerful silhouette against the riverine landscape.

This hawk is particularly associated with riparian habitats—woodlands, mangroves, and wetlands near water—where it hunts for a variety of prey, including fish, amphibians, crabs, and small reptiles. Its long yellow legs and yellow base of the bill add to its distinctive appearance, making it relatively easy to identify.
In the humid lowlands of the Magdalena basin, the Common Black Hawk plays an important ecological role as a top predator. It is often seen soaring above the riverbanks or perched silently in trees, scanning for movement below. These hawks are known for their strong site fidelity, often returning to the same nesting territories year after year.
Their presence is a sign of a healthy wetland ecosystem, and they are a favorite among birdwatchers exploring Colombia’s rich avifauna. While not currently threatened, the species depends on the preservation of riparian forests and clean waterways—habitats increasingly at risk from deforestation and pollution.

Cowboys gather cattle in the late afternoon
Along the banks of the Magdalena River, particularly in the Mompox region, cattle ranching is a deeply rooted tradition that reflects both the cultural heritage and the ecological rhythms of the land.

Cowboys—known locally as llaneros—raise cattle on expansive floodplains and savannas that stretch across the river’s lowlands. These lands, nourished by seasonal flooding, provide rich pastures for grazing. Unlike industrial feedlots, Colombian cattle are typically raised on open ranges, which means the work of the llanero is essential and constant. They herd cattle on horseback, often barefoot, navigating wetlands and river channels with a skill honed over generations.
In the Mompox region, the landscape is shaped by the Magdalena and its tributaries, creating a mosaic of wetlands, forests, and grasslands ideal for extensive cattle grazing. The llaneros here are known for their toughness and independence, often working in remote areas with minimal infrastructure. Their tasks include branding, castrating, and managing herds across vast tracts of land. The work is physically demanding and steeped in tradition, with many llaneros inheriting their skills and roles from their fathers and grandfathers. Despite the challenges, they take pride in their identity and their deep connection to the land and animals they care for.
Cattle ranching in this region is not only a livelihood but also a cultural expression. The songs, stories, and rituals of the llaneros are part of Colombia’s intangible heritage. In recent years, there has been a growing movement toward sustainable ranching practices, especially in areas recovering from decades of conflict. These efforts aim to balance economic survival with environmental stewardship, ensuring that the floodplains of the Magdalena can continue to support both wildlife and traditional ways of life.

A few kilometers north of Mompox, the river opens into swamps and marshes
The humid lands north of Mompox, where the Mompox River branches off from the Magdalena River, form a lush and ecologically rich region shaped by centuries of seasonal flooding and sedimentation. This area, part of the Magdalena River’s floodplain, is characterized by wetlands, marshes, and low-lying tropical forests. The climate is hot and humid year-round, with temperatures often soaring above 30°C and heavy rains contributing to the region’s swampy terrain. These conditions create a fertile environment that supports diverse flora and fauna, including waterfowl, reptiles, and aquatic plants.

This landscape has historically shaped the way of life for communities in the region. The river and its tributaries are not just geographical features—they are lifelines. Locals rely on them for fishing, transportation, and agriculture. The fertile soils support crops like plantains, yuca, and rice, while the waterways provide fish and access to nearby towns. Wooden boats, often handcrafted, are essential for navigating the intricate network of channels and lagoons, especially during the rainy season when roads become impassable.
The isolation of this region, particularly around Mompox, has helped preserve its colonial charm and traditional ways of life. Mompox itself, situated on an island formed by the Mompox and Loba arms of the Magdalena, has remained relatively untouched by modern development due to its difficult access. This seclusion has allowed the town and its surrounding wetlands to retain a timeless quality, one that inspired Gabriel García Márquez’s fictional Macondo in One Hundred Years of Solitude.
Despite its remoteness, the area is slowly opening up to tourism and conservation efforts. Visitors are drawn to its natural beauty, birdwatching opportunities, and the cultural richness of towns like Mompox. As infrastructure improves, there is growing interest in balancing development with the preservation of this unique and fragile ecosystem.

A large wasp nests hanging from tree branches
Along the banks of the Magdalena River in Colombia, particularly in the humid lowland forests and wetlands near towns like Mompox, you may notice large, oval-shaped wasp nests hanging from tree branches. These impressive structures are often built by Synoeca septentrionalis, a species of social wasp commonly known as the warrior wasp. Native to Central and South America, including Colombia, this wasp is part of the Epiponini tribe of paper wasps and is known for its aggressive defense behavior and painful sting.

The nests of Synoeca septentrionalis are made from a papery material created by chewing wood fibers mixed with saliva. They typically begin as a single comb enclosed in a ridged, domed envelope, but as the colony grows, additional lobes are added. Some nests can reach over three meters in length and contain multiple chambers and entry holes. These nests are often suspended from high branches, where they are less accessible to predators and disturbances.
What makes these wasps particularly fascinating is their eusocial behavior—they live in complex colonies with a division of labor among queens, workers, and drones. When threatened, the colony will produce a loud, synchronized drumming sound by beating their wings against the nest walls, a warning signal before launching a coordinated defense. This behavior, along with their formidable sting, has earned them a fearsome reputation among both predators and humans.
Despite their intimidating nature, these wasps play a role in the local ecosystem by controlling insect populations and contributing to the balance of forest life. For those exploring the Magdalena River’s rich biodiversity, spotting one of these nests—while keeping a respectful distance—offers a glimpse into the intricate and sometimes dramatic world of tropical insect societies.

Local people use wooden boats to navigate the river
Wooden boats have long been a vital part of life along Colombia’s Magdalena River, serving as essential transportation for local communities.

These boats, often handcrafted by skilled artisans using traditional methods, are typically made from native hardwoods like ceiba or mahogany. Their designs vary depending on the region and purpose, but most are long and narrow, ideal for navigating the river’s winding channels and shallow waters. Locals use them for everything from fishing and ferrying goods to commuting between towns and villages that dot the riverbanks.
In towns like Magangué and Mompox, wooden boats are not just practical—they’re cultural icons. These vessels often feature simple outboard motors, though some are still paddled or poled in the traditional way. The boatbuilders, known as “carpinteros de ribera,” pass down their craft through generations, preserving a deep connection to the river and its rhythms. The boats are often painted in bright colors, reflecting the vibrant spirit of the communities that rely on them.
The Magdalena River itself is Colombia’s principal waterway, stretching over 950 miles from the Andes to the Caribbean Sea. It has historically been the country’s main artery for commerce and communication, and wooden boats have played a central role in that legacy. Even as modern infrastructure expands, many rural areas still depend on these boats for access to markets, schools, and healthcare.
Today, while luxury river cruises are beginning to appear on the Magdalena, the traditional wooden boats remain a symbol of resilience and continuity. They embody a way of life that is deeply attuned to the river’s ebb and flow, and they continue to be a lifeline for countless Colombians who call the Magdalena home.