The Convent of La Popa, officially known as the
Convento de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, is a historic religious
complex perched atop Mount La Popa, the highest point in Cartagena, Colombia.
Founded in 1607 by the Discalced Augustinian friar Vicente Mallol, the convent
was built following a vision experienced by another friar, Alonso de la Cruz
Paredes, who claimed the Virgin Mary instructed him to construct a church on
the hill to restore Christian faith in the region. The site was originally a
wooden chapel, later expanded into a full convent with the financial support
of a wealthy Neapolitan, Don Fabricio Sánchez.
The convent's name, "La Popa," meaning "the stern" in Spanish, reflects the
hill's resemblance to the back of a ship. Over the centuries, the convent has
been a spiritual and cultural beacon for Cartagena, serving as a Marian
sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin of Candelaria, the city’s patron saint. The
site is still maintained by the Order of Augustinian Recollects and remains a
center of pilgrimage, especially during the annual February festivities
honoring the Virgin.
Beyond its religious significance, the Convento de la Popa has played a role
in Cartagena’s turbulent history. It was targeted by pirates, including the
infamous Francis Drake, and later became a strategic site during Colombia’s
War of Independence. Despite suffering damage from attacks and invasions, the
convent has been restored multiple times and retains much of its colonial
charm, including a beautiful cloister, a richly adorned chapel, and a revered
altarpiece featuring the Virgin of Candelaria.
Today, visitors flock to La Popa not only for its spiritual ambiance but also
for its panoramic 360-degree views of Cartagena and the Caribbean Sea. The
site offers a peaceful retreat from the bustling city below, blending history,
faith, and breathtaking scenery into one unforgettable experience.
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Panorama of the Convent of La Popa
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View of Cartagena de Indias from the convent's viewpoint
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Panorama of the convent cloister
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"Vigil of the faith of a people" (John Paul II)
«The Virgin of Candelaria, Patron Saint of Cartagena de Indias, is
venerated by devotees during her Novena and Procession on February 2nd
with joyful and varied cultural events, lights, and votive offerings to
thank her for her continued spiritual and physical protection.
In the 17th century, the Secular Council named all the narrow streets of
the walled enclosure after the Blessed Virgin. This Sanctuary is the
center of the highest Marian spirituality in the Caribbean region.»
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Apparition of the Virgin of Candelaria to three sailors
The
story of the Virgen de la Candelaria, patron saint of Cartagena de
Indias, is steeped in legend and devotion, particularly tied to a
miraculous event involving three sailors. According to local tradition,
these sailors were caught in a violent storm off the coast of Cartagena.
As their ship was battered by the waves and on the verge of sinking,
they fervently prayed for salvation. In their desperation, they invoked
the Virgin Mary, and at that moment, a radiant figure appeared to
them—holding a candle that pierced through the darkness and guided them
safely to shore.
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This apparition is believed to have been the Virgin of Candelaria,
whose name derives from the Spanish word candela, meaning candle. The
light she held symbolized hope and divine guidance. After surviving
the storm, the sailors made their way to the hill now known as La
Popa, where they built a small shrine in her honor. This act of
gratitude marked the beginning of her veneration in Cartagena,
eventually leading to the construction of the Convento de la Popa,
where her image is still revered today.
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The Virgin’s association with sailors and the sea made her an
especially powerful protector in a city like Cartagena, which was a
major colonial port vulnerable to storms and pirate attacks. Over
time, her cult grew, and she was officially declared the patron saint
of Cartagena. Her feast day is celebrated on February 2nd, coinciding
with the Catholic feast of the Presentation of Jesus at the Temple,
also known as Candlemas.
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Today, the Fiesta de la Candelaria is one of Cartagena’s most vibrant
religious and cultural celebrations. It includes a novena,
processions, music, and traditional dances, culminating in a grand
pilgrimage to La Popa. The Virgin is carried down from the convent in
a solemn procession, accompanied by thousands of faithful, reaffirming
her enduring role as a symbol of protection, faith, and unity for the
people of Cartagena.
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Convento de “El Desierto” de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria
Ráquira - Boyacá - Colombia
«“Since in our sacred religion, in its principles, its eremitic way of
life, the religious living in cells apart in the wilderness, we want and
in our will that in each province there be a house in a separate place,
in which this way of life is kept, which is fenced, taking the greatest
amount of land possible, trying to have within it good wild groves and
water, within which some hermitages are built, apart from each other
(...), which will have three rooms: a cell, a kitchen and an oratory”.
(Chronicles 1,377).»
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Virgin of Candelaria
«We take refuge under your protection, we who for four hundred years
have felt in La Popa the presence of your Son, the Light that
illuminates the nations.
Hail, Queen of heaven, who gave way to our light, Jesus; Mediator who
unites God and man, overcoming distances, eliminating all divisions, and
tearing down every wall of discord.
Make us always instruments of your peace, so that those who dwell in our
lands may be assisted with spiritual and temporal benefits.
Mother of the Redeemer and our Mother, Star of the Sea, we thank you for
the care with which you accompany us along the way, so that we may
present ourselves anew to the Father, our Only Good; so that our lives,
driven by love, may be a living sacrifice, holy and pleasing to Him.
Amen.»
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«The happiest is not the one who has the most, but the one who needs the
least.»
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The legend of the Cabrón de la Popa
The legend of the Cabrón
de la Popa is one of Cartagena’s most vivid and symbolic tales, blending
indigenous beliefs, colonial evangelization, and spiritual conquest.
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According to the story, during the colonial era, Fray Alonso de la
Cruz Paredes, a Spanish friar, received a divine vision from the
Virgin Mary while in Ráquira. She instructed him to travel to
Cartagena and build a church on the city’s highest hill to restore the
Christian faith, which had been eroded by pagan practices.
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When Fray Alonso arrived at what is now known as Cerro de la Popa, he
discovered a small hut at the summit where local enslaved Africans,
indigenous people, and mestizos worshipped a pagan deity in the form
of a golden goat. This idol, known as the Buziraco or Cabrón, was said
to have been introduced by a mestizo sorcerer named Luis Andrea, who
had spread its cult throughout the region. Enraged by what he saw as
idolatry, the friar seized the golden goat statue and hurled it from
the cliff, casting it down the mountain in a dramatic act of spiritual
cleansing.
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From that moment on, the site of the goat’s fall became known as “El
Salto del Cabrón”—literally, “The Goat’s Leap.” The destruction of the
idol marked the beginning of the construction of the Convento de la
Popa, dedicated to the Virgen de la Candelaria, who would become the
patron saint of Cartagena. The convent was built as a symbol of
Christian triumph over what the colonizers considered demonic
influences, and it remains a powerful religious and cultural landmark
to this day.
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The legend of the Cabrón de la Popa is more than just a tale of good
versus evil—it reflects the complex layers of Cartagena’s colonial
history, including the clash between indigenous spirituality and
European Christianity, and the role of religious institutions in
shaping the city’s identity. Even today, the story is retold as part
of Cartagena’s rich folklore, reminding visitors of the dramatic
spiritual battles that once played out on its highest hill.
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The chapel of the Convento de la Popa
The chapel of the
Convento de la Popa in Cartagena is a serene and sacred space that
reflects the deep religious devotion and colonial artistry of the 17th
century. At the heart of the chapel is the High Altar, a stunning focal
point that draws the eye with its intricate design and spiritual
symbolism. This altar is dedicated to the Virgen de la Candelaria, the
patroness of Cartagena, whose image is enshrined there and venerated by
pilgrims and visitors alike.
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The altarpiece is a richly decorated baroque-style retablo, gilded in
gold leaf and adorned with floral motifs, angels, and religious
iconography. At its center stands the revered statue of the Virgin,
depicted holding the Christ Child and a candle—symbols of light,
guidance, and maternal protection. The statue is believed to have
miraculous powers, and many faithful come to the chapel to offer
prayers, light candles, and seek blessings.
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Surrounding the High Altar are painted panels and carvings that
narrate scenes from the life of the Virgin and the history of the
convent. The chapel itself is modest in size but exudes a sense of
peace and reverence, with whitewashed walls, wooden pews, and arched
ceilings that echo with centuries of prayer. The space is often filled
with the scent of incense and the soft flicker of candlelight,
enhancing its contemplative atmosphere.
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The High Altar of La Popa is not just a religious centerpiece—it is a
cultural treasure that encapsulates Cartagena’s colonial past, its
enduring Catholic faith, and the powerful legend of the Virgin who
watches over the city from its highest hill. Visitors often describe
the experience of standing before the altar as both humbling and
uplifting, a moment of quiet awe amid the vibrant energy of Cartagena.
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Leaving the Convent of La Popa
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See Also
Source
Location
San Felipe de Barajas Castle
Cartagena
Zenu Gold Museum
Church of Santo Domingo
Cathedral of Saint Catherine of Alexandria