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Chichicastenango

Chichicastenango, also known as Santo Tomás Chichicastenango, is a town, with a population of 71,394 (2018 census), and the municipal seat for the surrounding municipality of the same name in the El Quiché department of Guatemala. It is located in a mountainous region about 140 km (87 mi) northwest of Guatemala City, at an altitude of 1,965 m (6,447 ft). The Spanish conquistadors gave the town its name from the Nahuatl name used by their soldiers from Tlaxcala: Tzitzicaztenanco, or City of Nettles. Its original name was Chaviar. Chichicastenango is a K'iche' Maya cultural centre. According to the 2012 census, 98.5% of the municipality's population is indigenous Mayan K'iche. Of the population, 21% speak only K'iche, 71% speak both K'iche and Spanish, and the remaining 8% speak only Spanish.

Chichicastenango hosts market days on Thursdays and Sundays where vendors sell handicrafts, food, flowers, pottery, wooden boxes, condiments, medicinal plants, candles, pom and copal (traditional incense), cal (lime stones for preparing tortillas), grindstones, pigs and chickens, machetes, and other tools. Among the items sold are textiles, particularly women's blouses. Masks used by dancers in traditional dances, such as the Dance of the Conquest, are also manufactured in Chichicastenango.

Next to the market is the 400-year-old church of Santo Tomás. It is built atop a Pre-Columbian temple platform, and the steps originally leading to a temple of the pre-Hispanic Maya civilization remain venerated. K'iche' Maya priests still use the church for their rituals, burning incense and candles. In special cases, they burn a chicken for the gods. Each of the 18 stairs that lead up to the church stands for one month of the Maya calendar year. Another key element of Chichicastenango is the Cofradia of Pascual Abaj, which is an ancient carved stone venerated nearby and the Maya priests perform several rituals there. Writing on the stone records the doings of a king named Tohil (Fate).

Walking down 6th street to the market.


Entering the market.


Visiting the market.


Church exterior.
The Saint Thomas Church (Iglesia de Santo Tomás) is a Roman Catholic church in Chichicastenango, Guatemala. It is located in the market place of the town which is known for its pottery and contains the Chichicastenango Regional Museum.

  • It was built around 1545 atop a Pre-Columbian temple platform, and the steps originally leading to a temple of the pre-Hispanic Maya civilization remain venerated.
  • Each of the 18 stairs that lead up to the church stands for one month of the Maya calendar year.
  • Another key element of Chichicastenango is the Cofradia of Pascual Abaj, which is an ancient carved stone venerated nearby and the Maya priests perform several rituals there. Writing on the stone records the doings of a king named Tohil (Fate).

K'iche' Maya priest.
K'iche' Maya priests still use the church for their rituals, burning incense and candles.

  • At present the Ajq'ijab' or Ajkotz'ij (Spiritual Guides or Mayan Priests) are the performers of spiritual activities. They are men and women who possess knowledge of the days and time through the management of the sacred Mayan calendar. They are the spiritual guides in the communities, and as such they are authorities in the matter to resolve conflicts or to formalize some act of life for the community.
  • They are generally sought for the formalization of necessary and common actions, such as a marriage, which implies a whole process. They perform a function for life that is obtained by gift, from birth, which develops in the person at a certain age.
  • The Mayan Priest is a english term to refer to those who perform the function of Ajq'ij. The word Ajq'ij is composed of two words: Aj and Q'ij. Aj is the prefix of a trade, as it also means corn and abundance. Q'ij is sun and day. It is translated as: "Counter of the days." The plural of Ajq'ij is Ajq'ijab'.
  • Etymologically, Ajq'ij comes from Minister Solar, or the specialist in the science of Astronomy. He is the person who controls the days, months, years and life cycles according to the Mayan calendrical system. He is the person who dedicates one hundred percent of his life to the spiritual, psychological, and physical care of the people in the community. The Ajq'ij is the one who guides people, families, institutions and peoples for harmony, unity and natural, cosmic, spiritual, social and material balance.
  • The Ajq'ij is the guide in the community or town where it takes place. He is in charge of listening to social problems, provides spiritual and moral help to the inhabitants so that they can live in harmony for the benefit of the town. Being social and spiritual guides, they maintain authority in the community, they are capable of solving problems that may exist among the inhabitants. The principle of authority of the Ajq'ij is represented in a staff, which places him within a social hierarchy of community structural respect.
  • It can be determined that the Ajq'ijab' are the people who direct the Mayan ceremonies, they can be women and men who have gone through the long preparation process and have successfully completed their training; until receiving his destiny, also called mission or chumil'al' (star) on the day of their birth, which they received in a ceremony presided over by a wise Ajq'ij who was their teacher who gives them their mission, rod (vara) or his cross, in a special ceremony where they are witnessed by their family and friends.
  • These people are from the community, they are people who guide, lead and contribute to the development of the locality and to the deepening of the culture, who manage the sacred calendar perfectly related to the days represented in the 20 nawales.
  • Which means that an Ajq'ij is the person who is found daily at the altar, in the ceremonial center, in the temple and with the sacred fire, being a person of integrity, exemplary for all, without vices of any kind, who have their own life and their family well managed first of all to be effective in guiding others in promoting good values for the community.
  • The true Ajq'ij has the ability to communicate with the Ajaw, with the ancestors' grandfathers and grandmothers, with the nawales, the nature and the cosmos, they are deeply spiritual persons.
  • Regarding the initiation process of the Ajq'ijab' within the framework of Mayan spirituality, it is described as follows: The initiation process is different for each case, and varies according to the place, person who induces, age of the induced person, marital status, life history and/or illness.
  • After having gone through a generally long accompaniment process of preparation, in Xukulem, ceremonies with old men and women, he is given his Sut're jolom'aj, cloth with which he covers his head, and he is given his P'ass, red band, with which he encircles his waist, both, to balance their energies during the ceremonies. The Sut' represents the four corners of the Universe and the four corners of the inner and outer world. The P'ass is Kukulkan the feathered serpent that symbolizes the thread of life and time, it is red in color that represents energy, clarity, strength and life.
  • His rod (vara) or cane is also given to him, the expression and representation of hierarchical authority in the Mayab' community, which today has become a symbol of brotherhood between peoples.
  • He also receives the sacred Tz'ite that encompasses his Nawal, the potentialities of the Ajq'ij. However, this is not given automatically or free of charge, it requires a deep process of formation, conviction and observance of all the norms and the attention that is given to the energies of the Nawales and in the indicated ceremonial places.
  • It is important to mention that not all the Ajq'ijab' receive the bando, the vara and the chachal and the Tz'ite. They do so only with the imposition of the Sut' on the head, the bando on the waist and the vara and the chachal and the Tz'ite earn it in their progression depending on their ability and efficiency as Ajq'ijab', something strictly observed in almost all of the cultures and in the communities where they develop.
  • This means that the bando, the vara and the chachal and the Tz'ite is what the Ajq'ij holds. That is to say that the bando, the vara and the chachal and the Tz'ite is the nucleus of the gift or power of the Ajq'ij, is his guide, his path, is the one who protects him, his nawal and capacity and efficiency gained.
  • The investiture of a true Mayan Ajq'ij, is always performed on the sacred day of Waqxakib' B'atz, the day of the sacred Mayan ceremonial new year, this great ordination ceremony is performed on the sacred Tab'al Tz'ij (Maya Altar) by the master of the new Ajq'ij and other highly experienced Ajq'ijab'.
  • Among the functions of the Ajq'ijab' the following can be mentioned:
    • Prevent, avoid problems and comments between people
    • Correct and help issue sanctions that allow the person to be corrected
    • Facilitate dialogue and reflection to find solutions to problems
    • Ensure the tranquility and development of the community.
  • Among the services provided by the Ajq'ijab' are:
    • Prevention, resolution and transformation of conflicts within the framework of the Mayan System
    • Spiritual healthcare
    • Spiritual formation of people
    • Guidance for family well-being
  • If someone calls himself Ajq'ij and does not meet these requirements described above by the Mayan sages, he is a liar and charlatan who deceives and that it is better to keep such people from afar and as a great danger, since they are people who sooner or later they will receive their X'ica'y ó As'iar (Mayan instruments to correct and punish children) from the sacred energies, the universe and the cosmos, for usurping the sacred title of Ajq'ij without having earned it the correct way.
  • A true Ajq'ij is one who is upright, transparent and clear as the father Q'ij (the sun).

Entering the church.


Street market.
Street market between the Church of Saint Thomas (Iglesia de Santo Tomás) and the Chapel of Calvary (Capilla del Calvario).


The Chapel of Calvary.
In the west side of the plaza, this whitewashed Chapel of Calvary (Capilla del Calvario) is similar in form and function to Santo Tomás, but smaller.

  • Ceremonies go on continually in front of the church, as worshippers ring a bonfire of fragrant copal, while within, candles are placed upon blackened stone slabs.

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