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Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu

Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu is the most important Shinto shrine in the city of Kamakura, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan.

For most of its history, it served both as a Hachiman shrine, and in latter years a Tendai Buddhist temple typical of Japanese Buddhist architecture.

This shrine was originally built in 1063 as a branch of Iwashimizu Shrine in Zaimokuza where tiny Moto Hachiman now stands and dedicated to the Emperor Ojin, (deified with the name Hachiman, tutelary kami of warriors), his mother Empress Jingu and his wife Hime-gami.

Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura shogunate, moved it to its present location in 1191 and invited Hachiman to reside in the new location to protect his government.

Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu map.
An unusual feature of the shrine is its 1.8 km (1.1 mi) approach (sando), which extends all the way to the ocean in Yuigahama and doubles as Wakamiya Oji Avenue, Kamakura's main street. Built by Minamoto no Yoritomo as an imitation of Kyoto's Suzaku Oji, Wakamiya Oji used to be much wider and flanked by both a 3 m (9.8 ft) deep canal and pine trees.

  • Walking from the beach toward the shrine one passes through three torii, or Shinto gates. Between the first and the second lies Geba Yotsukado which, as the name indicates, was the place where riders had to get off their horses in deference to Hachiman and his shrine.
  • Some hundred meters further, between the second and third torii, begins the dankazura, a raised pathway flanked by cherry trees. The dankazura becomes gradually wider so that, seen from the shrine, it will look longer than it really is. The entire length of the dankazura is under the direct administration of the shrine.

Third Torii (San-no Torii).
There is a 1.8 km (1.1 mi) straight street in the front of shrine, called Wakamiya Oji. It is the approach (sando) of Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu, there are three big Shinto gates (Torii).

  • The Torii gate farthest from the shrine is called the First Torii (Ichi-no-Torii), the one in the middle is the Second Torii (Ni-no-Torii) and the one in front of the shrine is the Third Torii (San-no-Torii).

Arched Bridge (Taiko-bashi).
As one enters, after the Third Torii (San-no-Torii) there are three small bridges, two flat ones on the sides and an arched one at the center.

  • In the days of the shogunate there used to be only two, a normal one and another arched, made in wood and painted red.
  • The shogun would leave his retinue there and proceed alone on foot to the shrine.
  • The arched bridge was called Red Bridge (Akabashi), and was reserved to him: common people had to use the flat one.
  • The bridges span over a canal that joins two ponds popularly called Genpei-ike, or "Genpei ponds". The term comes from the names of the two families, the Minamoto ("Gen") and the Taira ("Pei"), that fought each other in Yoritomo's day.

Entrance to Hataage Benzaiten Shrine.
One of the islands in the Minamoto pond hosts a sub-shrine called Hataage Benzaiten Shrine dedicated to goddess Benzaiten, a Buddhist deity.

  • For this reason, the sub-shrine was dismantled in 1868 at the time of the "Shinto and Buddhism separation" order (see below) and rebuilt in 1956.

Water ablution pavilion (Chozuya).
Chozu-ya or temizu-ya is a Shinto water ablution pavilion for a ceremonial purification rite known as temizu or chozu (lit. 'hand-water'). The pavilion contains a large water-filled basin called a chozubachi ('hand water basin').

  • At shrines, these chozubachi are used by worshippers for washing their left hands, right hands, mouth and finally the handle of the water ladle to purify themselves before approaching the main Shinto shrine or shaden.
  • This symbolic purification is normal before worship and all manned shrines have this facility, as well as many Buddhist temples and some new religious houses of worship.
  • See more at Chōzuya - Wikipedia.

Dance Stage (Lower Oratory) (Maiden).
Right under the stairway there's an open pavilion called Maiden where weddings, dances and music are performed.


Sake barrels.
When displayed near a Shinto shrine, barrels of sake are called kazaridaru, which means “decoration barrels.” As can be surmised, the barrels on display are empty, at least in physical terms. Spiritually, they’re chock full of significance.

  • In Japan, sake has always been a way of bringing our gods and people together.
  • In some of the oldest texts the word used for sake is miki, written with the characters for ‘god’ and ‘wine.’ People would go a shrine festival and be given rice wine to drink, and they would feel happy and closer to the gods.

Outdated Amulet Return.
Omamori are Japanese amulets commonly sold at Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, dedicated to particular Shinto kami as well as Buddhist figures, and are said to provide various forms of luck and protection.

  • Customarily, omamori are not opened in order to avoid losing their protective benefits.
  • They are instead carried on one's person, or tied to something like a backpack or a purse.
  • It is not necessary, but amulets are customarily replaced once a year to ward off bad luck from the previous year.
  • Old amulets are usually returned to the same shrine or temple they were purchased at so they can be disposed of properly.
  • Amulets are commonly returned on or slightly after New Year's. This way the shrine/temple visitor has a fresh start for the New Year with a new omamori.
  • Old omamori traditionally should not be disposed of, but burned, as a sign of respect to the deity that assisted the person throughout the year.
  • See more at Omamori - Wikipedia.

Giant ginkgo (Shizukazakura).
The ginkgo tree that stood next to Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu's stairway almost from its foundation and which appears in almost every old print of the shrine was completely uprooted and greatly damaged at 4:40 in the morning on March 10, 2010.

  • According to an expert who analyzed the tree, the fall is likely due to rot. Both the tree's stump and a section of its trunk replanted nearby have produced leaves.
  • The tree was nicknamed Hiding Ginkgo (kakure-icho) because according to an Edo period urban legend, a now-famous assassin hid behind it before striking his victim.

Grand Stairway with 61 steps (Dashiduan).
One of the historical events the shrine is tied to is the assassination of Sanetomo, last of Minamoto no Yoritomo's sons.

  • Under heavy snow on the evening of February 12, 1219 (Jokyu 1, 26th day of the 1st month), shogun Minamoto no Sanetomo was coming down from Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu's Senior Shrine after assisting to a ceremony celebrating his nomination to Udaijin. His nephew Kugyo, son of second shogun Minamoto no Yoriie, came out from next to the stone stairway of the shrine, then suddenly attacked and assassinated him in the hope to become shogun himself.
  • The killer is often described as hiding behind the giant ginkgo, but no contemporary text mentions the tree, and this detail is likely an Edo-period invention first appeared in Tokugawa Mitsukuni's Shinpen Kamakurashi.
  • For his act Kugyo was himself beheaded a few hours later, thus bringing the Seiwa Genji line of the Minamoto clan and their rule in Kamakura to a sudden end.

Senior Shrine gate (Hongu).
Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu is now just a Shinto shrine but, for the almost 700 years from its foundation until the Shinto and Buddhism Separation Order of 1868, its name was Tsurugaoka Hachimangu-ji and it was also a Buddhist temple, one of the oldest in Kamakura.

  • The separation policy (shinbutsu bunri) was the direct cause of serious damage to important cultural assets. Because mixing the two religions was now forbidden, shrines and temples had to give away some of their treasures, thus damaging the integrity of their cultural heritage and decreasing the historical and economic value of their properties.
  • Tsurugaoka Hachiman's giant Nio (the two wooden wardens usually found at the sides of a temple's entrance), being objects of Buddhist worship and therefore illegal where they were, had to be sold to Jufuku-ji, where they still are.
  • The shrine also had to destroy Buddhism-related buildings, for example its shichido garan (a complete seven-building Buddhist temple compound), its tahoto tower, and its mido (enshrinement hall (of a buddha)).
  • In important ways, Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu was impoverished in 1868 as a consequence of this Meiji Era policy.

Two guardian archers.
Two shinto guardian archers sitting at either side of the main gate.

  • Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu is the center of much cultural activity and both archery from horseback (yabusame), and Japanese archery (kyudo) are practiced within the shrine.
  • See more at Kyūdō - Wikipedia.

Senior Shrine (Hongu).
A Hachiman shrine (Hachiman Jinja, also Hachiman-gu) is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the kami Hachiman.

  • It is the second most numerous type of Shinto shrine after those dedicated to Inari Okami. There are about 44,000 Hachiman shrines.
  • Originally the name was read Yawata or Yahata, a reading still used in some cases. Many towns and cities incorporating the names Hachiman, Yawata or Yahata grew around these shrines.
  • The following four shrines are often grouped into groups of three, either as Usa-Iwashimizu-Hakozaki or Usa-Iwashimizu-Tsurugaoka, and both of these groupings are known as the Three Major Hachiman Shrines of Japan: Usa Jin-gu (Usa, Oita), the Sohonsha (head shrine); Iwashimizu Hachiman-gu (Yawata, Kyoto); Hakozaki Shrine (Fukuoka); Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu (Kamakura).
  • See more at Hachiman shrine - Wikipedia.

Leaving Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu.


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