Floreana Island, Galapagos, Ecuador

Floreana Island, also known as Isla Floreana or Charles Island, is one of the oldest and most storied islands in the Galápagos archipelago.

Formed by volcanic activity, it spans approximately 173 square kilometers and reaches a height of 640 meters at Cerro Pajas. Unlike many of its rugged neighbors, Floreana has a relatively flat terrain and a small human population centered in Puerto Velasco Ibarra. The island is named after Juan José Flores, Ecuador’s first president, and has served as a vital stopover for whalers and explorers since the 19th century. One of its quirkiest traditions is the barrel at Post Office Bay, where travelers still leave unstamped mail to be hand-delivered by other visitors—a practice dating back to the whaling era.

Ecologically, Floreana is a treasure trove of biodiversity. It hosts green sea turtles that nest on its beaches from December to May, and is one of the few places where visitors can see the rare Floreana mockingbird, now mostly confined to nearby islets due to habitat loss. Cormorant Point is a hotspot for observing Galápagos flamingos, especially during their elaborate courtship rituals. The island also boasts Devil’s Crown, a submerged volcanic cone renowned for world-class snorkeling, where reef sharks, sea lions, and even penguins can be spotted. Floreana’s mix of marine and terrestrial wildlife makes it a compelling destination for nature lovers and conservationists alike.

But Floreana’s human history is as dramatic as its natural beauty. In the 1930s, it became the setting for the infamous “Galápagos Affair,” a tangled saga of European settlers seeking utopia, only to be consumed by jealousy, ambition, and mysterious disappearances. German doctor Friedrich Ritter and his partner Dore Strauch were among the first to arrive, followed by the Wittmer family and the flamboyant Baroness Eloise Wehrborn, who dreamed of building a luxury hotel. Tensions escalated, leading to deaths and vanishing residents—events that remain unsolved and have inspired books, documentaries, and even a recent film adaptation. Today, Floreana stands as a haunting reminder of paradise lost, where nature and human ambition collided in unforgettable ways.

Sailing from the ship to the island

Tail flippers of a Galápagos Sea Lion

Blue-footed Booby

Galápagos Sea Lions

Sally Lightfoot Crab

Prickly Pear Cactus
The Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia ficus-indica), while not native to the Galápagos Islands, has found a foothold on Floreana Island, where it contributes to the island’s complex ecological tapestry.

This species is part of the larger Opuntia genus, which includes several endemic Galápagos varieties that evolved through adaptive radiation. Unlike the native tree-like Opuntia species such as O. galapageia, O. ficus-indica is a trunk-forming cactus with broad, flat pads and edible fruits, commonly known as "tunas." Its presence on Floreana is likely the result of human introduction, either intentionally for food or accidentally through settlement activities.
On Floreana, Opuntia ficus-indica plays a dual role—both ecological and problematic. It provides food and shelter for native fauna such as land iguanas, cactus finches, and mockingbirds, which feed on its pads, flowers, and fruits. However, as a non-native species, it competes with endemic cacti and other vegetation, potentially altering habitat dynamics. Its ability to reproduce both by seed and vegetatively through detached pads makes it highly resilient and capable of spreading rapidly, especially in disturbed areas. This resilience is part of what makes it invasive in other parts of the world, and a concern for conservationists in the Galápagos.
Efforts to restore Floreana’s ecosystem have highlighted the challenges posed by invasive species like Opuntia ficus-indica. The island has suffered significant ecological degradation due to introduced animals such as goats and rats, which not only consume native plants but also disturb the balance that endemic species depend on. Conservation initiatives aim to remove invasive species and reintroduce locally extinct wildlife, such as the Floreana mockingbird and racer snake. In this context, managing the spread of O. ficus-indica is part of a broader strategy to protect Floreana’s unique biodiversity and restore its natural heritage.

Galapagos Sea Lion sleeping in the shade of the Prickly Pear Cactus

Aaron's-beard prickly-pea
The Aaron’s-beard prickly-pea (Opuntia leucotricha DC.), also known as the arborescent prickly pear or semaphore cactus, is a tree-like cactus native to central Mexico but not endemic to the Galápagos Islands.

On Floreana Island, its presence is likely the result of human introduction, either for ornamental use or agricultural purposes. This species can grow up to 5 meters tall and is characterized by its fuzzy white hairs on the joints of its pads, yellow flowers in spring and summer, and purple-white fruits that attract pollinators like bees.
Although O. leucotricha is drought-tolerant and well-adapted to rocky, sun-drenched environments, its introduction to Floreana raises ecological concerns. Non-native cacti can compete with endemic species such as Opuntia galapageia, which evolved in isolation and play critical roles in the island’s food web. Native animals like land iguanas and cactus finches rely on endemic Opuntia for nourishment and nesting, and the spread of introduced species may disrupt these relationships. Conservationists monitor such introductions closely to prevent long-term habitat degradation.
Efforts to restore Floreana’s ecosystem—damaged by invasive mammals and plants—include managing non-native flora like O. leucotricha. While it may not be as aggressive as other invasive species, its resilience and reproductive capacity make it a candidate for ecological scrutiny. Restoration projects aim to reestablish native plant communities and support the return of locally extinct species such as the Floreana mockingbird. In this context, understanding and controlling the impact of introduced cacti is essential to preserving the island’s unique biodiversity.

Straw Hill
The highest point on Floreana Island in the Galápagos is known as Cerro Pajas, which translates to "Straw Hill."

This volcanic crater formation rises to approximately 640 meters (2,100 feet) above sea level and is a remnant of the island’s ancient volcanic origins. Unlike the more rugged peaks found on other islands, Cerro Pajas is relatively gentle in slope, making it accessible for hikers and researchers. Its elevation provides sweeping views of Floreana’s diverse terrain, from coastal beaches to arid scrublands, and serves as a vital ecological zone for both flora and fauna.
Cerro Pajas is particularly significant for its role in conservation. It was once the primary nesting site for the critically endangered Floreana mockingbird (Nesomimus trifasciatus), before invasive species and habitat loss drove the bird to nearby islets. The crater’s interior and surrounding highlands also support native vegetation, including endemic plants and tree-like cacti, which provide food and shelter for species such as the Galápagos hawk and various finches. The area’s microclimate—cooler and more humid than the lowlands—creates a unique ecological niche that contrasts with the drier coastal zones.
In recent years, Cerro Pajas has been a focal point for ecological restoration efforts. Conservationists have worked to remove invasive species like goats and rats, which once devastated native habitats and nesting grounds. Reforestation and habitat rehabilitation projects aim to restore the crater’s biodiversity and potentially reintroduce species that were lost from the main island. As the highest point on Floreana, Cerro Pajas is not only a geological landmark but also a symbol of the island’s resilience and the ongoing commitment to preserving its natural heritage.

Post Office Bay
Post Office Bay on Floreana Island is one of the most iconic human landmarks in the Galápagos, steeped in maritime history and quirky tradition.

It originated in 1793 when British whalers placed a wooden barrel on the beach to serve as an informal mail drop. Sailors would leave letters in the barrel, hoping that other passing ships—often homeward-bound—would collect and deliver them. This honor-based system allowed communication across vast oceans long before formal postal services reached such remote corners. Remarkably, the tradition has endured for over two centuries, making Post Office Bay a living relic of seafaring ingenuity.
Today, the barrel still stands, weathered and surrounded by driftwood adorned with names and dates from travelers around the world. Visitors to Floreana Island are invited to participate in the tradition by leaving postcards and sorting through the mail to find items addressed near their hometowns. Instead of mailing them, the custom encourages hand-delivery, turning tourists into impromptu mail carriers. This ritual blends whimsy with history, offering a tangible connection between strangers and a shared sense of adventure. It’s not uncommon for travelers to return home and surprise recipients with stories of how their letter journeyed across the Pacific.
Beyond the barrel, Post Office Bay offers more than just postal charm. Nearby, visitors can explore ancient lava tubes formed by volcanic activity and the ruins of a short-lived Norwegian fishing settlement from the 1920s. A dinghy ride through the surrounding mangroves reveals sea turtles, rays, and playful sea lions, while the Baroness Viewpoint provides sweeping vistas of Floreana’s rugged terrain. The site is a blend of natural beauty and historical intrigue, where echoes of whalers, pirates, and eccentric settlers still linger in the salty breeze.

Post Office Box
Post Office Bay on Floreana Island is home to one of the most unusual and enduring postal traditions in the world.

Dating back to 1793, British whalers placed a wooden barrel at this site to serve as an informal mail drop. Sailors passing through the Galápagos would leave letters in the barrel, hoping that other homeward-bound ships would pick them up and deliver them. This honor-based system allowed communication across oceans long before modern postal services existed. Remarkably, the tradition has persisted for over two centuries, making it the oldest functioning "post office" in South America.
Today, the barrel still stands—weathered and covered in notes, postcards, and driftwood mementos from travelers around the globe. Visitors to Floreana Island participate in the tradition by leaving their own mail and sifting through the contents to find letters addressed near their hometowns. Instead of mailing them, they’re encouraged to hand-deliver the letters and share the story of their journey. This quirky ritual transforms tourists into mail carriers and keeps alive a legacy of trust, storytelling, and global connection.
Beyond the barrel, Post Office Bay offers a glimpse into Floreana’s layered human history. Nearby, visitors can explore ancient lava tubes and the remnants of a failed Norwegian fishing settlement from the 1920s. The site also ties into the infamous Galápagos Affair, a tale of eccentric settlers and mysterious disappearances. With its blend of natural beauty and historical intrigue, Post Office Bay is more than a curiosity—it’s a living monument to the spirit of exploration and the bonds that link strangers across time and distance.

Floreana Mockingbird
The Floreana Mockingbird (Nesomimus trifasciatus), also known as the Charles Island mockingbird, is a critically endangered bird once native to Floreana Island in the Galápagos.

It played a pivotal role in Charles Darwin’s early observations of species variation, helping to inspire his theory of natural selection. This mockingbird is part of a superspecies complex that includes other Galápagos mockingbirds, but N. trifasciatus is monotypic and distinct in its appearance: adults have a pied plumage with grayish-brown upperparts, white cheeks, and dark patches around the eyes and breast. Males are slightly larger than females, and juveniles show heavier streaking.
Sadly, the Floreana Mockingbird was extirpated from Floreana Island by 1888 due to habitat destruction and the introduction of invasive species such as rats and cats. Today, it survives only on two nearby islets—Campeón and Gardner-near-Floreana—where it inhabits arid scrubland dotted with cacti and low vegetation. The bird is primarily insectivorous but also feeds on cactus fruit, carrion, and possibly seabird eggs. It forages both on the ground and in vegetation, displaying a resourceful diet that reflects its adaptability to harsh island conditions.
Breeding occurs from October to April, with cooperative nesting behavior that includes up to five adults sharing a territory of roughly two hectares. Nests are typically built in cacti and consist of twig cups lined with finer materials. Clutch sizes range from two to four eggs. Conservation efforts are underway to reintroduce the species to Floreana Island, supported by genetic studies that suggest viable hybridization and restoration potential. The Floreana Mockingbird stands as a symbol of both the fragility and resilience of island ecosystems, and its recovery is central to broader efforts to restore Floreana’s lost biodiversity.

Marine Iguana

Galapagos Lava Lizard

Sea turtle nest
On Floreana Island, one of the most captivating natural events is the nesting of green sea turtles (Chelonia mydas) high on its sandy beaches, particularly around Cormorant Point.

These turtles come ashore between December and May, often under the cover of night, to lay their eggs in carefully chosen spots above the high tide line. The elevated nesting sites help protect the eggs from flooding and tidal erosion, giving hatchlings a better chance at survival. The sand’s temperature also plays a crucial role in determining the sex of the offspring, with warmer sands typically producing females and cooler sands yielding males.
The nesting process is a labor-intensive ritual. Female turtles use their powerful flippers to dig deep, flask-shaped pits in the sand, where they deposit between 70 to 120 eggs per clutch. Once the eggs are laid, the turtle meticulously covers the nest with sand to camouflage it from predators like crabs and birds. Afterward, she returns to the sea, leaving the eggs to incubate for about 50 to 60 days. During this time, the nests remain vulnerable not only to natural threats but also to human disturbances and introduced species such as rats, which can prey on eggs and hatchlings.
Conservation efforts on Floreana have focused on monitoring and protecting these nesting sites to ensure the survival of future generations. Researchers and park rangers conduct nightly patrols during the nesting season, recording data and sometimes relocating nests at risk of inundation. These elevated nests are vital indicators of the health of the green sea turtle population and the broader marine ecosystem. With only about one in a thousand hatchlings surviving to adulthood, every nest on Floreana’s beaches represents a fragile hope for the species’ future in the Galápagos.

Great Frigatebird

Devil's Crown
Devil’s Crown is one of the most spectacular snorkeling sites in the Galápagos Islands, located just off the coast of Floreana Island near Punta Cormorant.

This submerged volcanic crater has eroded over time, leaving behind a ring of jagged rocks that resemble a crown rising from the sea—hence its name. The remnants of the crater form a natural underwater amphitheater, creating a rich habitat for marine life and offering a dramatic setting for exploration. Its unique geological structure funnels nutrient-rich currents through the area, attracting an abundance of sea creatures and making it a hotspot for biodiversity.
Snorkelers and divers who venture into Devil’s Crown are rewarded with encounters with vibrant reef fish, sea lions, rays, and even sharks, including the occasional hammerhead. Inside the crown’s shallow waters, smaller species like parrotfish and wrasses dart among coral and volcanic rock, while the outer edges host larger fish such as banner pompano and jacks. The site also features underwater caves and crevices, adding to its allure and complexity. However, strong currents can make the experience challenging, so guides typically accompany visitors to ensure safety and maximize wildlife sightings.
Access to Devil’s Crown is limited to Galápagos cruises with approved itineraries, as land-based tours are no longer permitted to visit the site. This restriction helps preserve the delicate marine ecosystem and ensures that tourism remains sustainable. The site’s popularity stems not only from its ecological richness but also from its sense of mystery and adventure—snorkeling within the remnants of a volcano surrounded by wildlife is a quintessential Galápagos experience. Devil’s Crown stands as a testament to the archipelago’s volcanic origins and its unparalleled marine diversity.

Marine life and seabed around Devil's Crown
Devil’s Crown, a submerged volcanic crater off the coast of Floreana Island, boasts one of the richest marine ecosystems in the Galápagos.

Over time, the crater’s center has become home to a thriving coral reef, nourished by nutrient-rich currents that funnel through the jagged ring of rocks. These currents create a dynamic underwater environment, attracting a dazzling array of marine life. The reef itself is a mosaic of hard and soft corals, sponges, and volcanic rock formations, offering shelter and feeding grounds for countless species. The seabed here is uneven and textured, with crevices and caves that add to its ecological complexity.
Snorkelers and divers exploring Devil’s Crown often encounter schools of brightly colored reef fish such as parrotfish, angelfish, and wrasses. Larger species like white-tip reef sharks, eagle rays, and hammerheads patrol the deeper waters around the crater’s edge, while sea lions playfully dart through the currents. The site is also frequented by green sea turtles and occasionally Galápagos penguins, making it a rare convergence point for tropical and temperate marine species. The strong currents that sweep through the area not only bring nutrients but also challenge swimmers, adding an exhilarating element to the experience.
The marine biodiversity at Devil’s Crown is a direct result of its unique geological and oceanographic conditions. The crater’s submerged structure acts as a natural amphitheater, concentrating life in its center while the outer rim provides a buffer against open ocean swells. This combination of shelter and flow supports both resident and migratory species, making it a vital ecological hotspot. Conservation efforts ensure that access is limited to guided cruise tours, helping to preserve the delicate balance of life on and around the seabed. Devil’s Crown remains a testament to the Galápagos’ extraordinary underwater world, where geology and biology intertwine in spectacular fashion.

Punta Cormorant (left) and Cerro Alieri (right)

Shells and bone on a rock on the beach

Panorama of the Flamingo Pond
Charco de los Flamencos, or “Flamingo Pond,” is a brackish lagoon located near Punta Cormorant on Floreana Island in the Galápagos.

This shallow body of water is one of the best places in the archipelago to observe the elegant American Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) in its natural habitat. The lagoon’s unique mix of salt and freshwater creates ideal conditions for the flamingos’ diet of algae, small crustaceans, and other microorganisms, which in turn give the birds their signature pink hue. The site is quiet and serene, offering a rare glimpse into the delicate balance of life in the Galápagos.
The surrounding landscape is equally captivating, with salt-tolerant vegetation such as mangroves and palo santo trees framing the lagoon. During the breeding season, visitors may witness flamingos performing synchronized courtship dances or tending to their mud-cone nests. These nests are built slightly above the waterline to protect the eggs from flooding, and both parents take turns incubating the single egg. The area is also frequented by other bird species, including stilts and pintails, making it a haven for birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts.
Charco de los Flamencos is part of a protected area managed by the Galápagos National Park, and access is typically granted through guided tours. The site is a testament to the island’s ecological richness and the importance of conservation efforts in preserving these fragile habitats. As one of Floreana’s most iconic natural features, the lagoon not only supports a vibrant community of wildlife but also offers visitors a chance to connect with the quiet rhythms of nature in one of the world’s most extraordinary environments.

American Flamingo
The American Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber), also known as the Caribbean flamingo, is one of the most visually striking birds found in the Galápagos Islands, including Floreana Island.

These tall, elegant birds are recognized by their vibrant pink plumage, long necks, and black-tipped wings visible only in flight. Their coloration comes from carotenoid pigments in their diet, which includes algae, crustaceans, and microscopic plant material. The flamingos on the Galápagos are genetically distinct from their Caribbean counterparts, exhibiting smaller body size and subtle differences in shape and sexual dimorphism.
On Floreana Island, the best place to observe these flamingos is at Cormorant Point, where they gather in brackish lagoons to feed and perform elaborate courtship displays. Their feeding technique is highly specialized: they shuffle their feet to stir up sediment, then submerge their heads upside-down to filter food through comb-like structures in their bills. These lagoons provide the shallow, nutrient-rich waters ideal for both feeding and breeding. During the nesting season, flamingos build cone-shaped mud nests about 20–25 centimeters high, each holding a single egg that is incubated by both parents for roughly 30 days.
Once hatched, flamingo chicks are gray with straight bills that begin to curve after about three weeks. They quickly leave the nest to join crèches—groups of young birds guarded by a few adults. Remarkably, flamingos feed their chicks with a nutrient-rich secretion known as “crop milk,” which is also pink due to the same pigments that color their feathers. Though the population on Floreana is small, it is stable, and conservation efforts continue to monitor and protect these birds as part of the island’s delicate ecosystem.