Dragon Hill, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos, Ecuador

Dragon Hill, or Cerro Dragón, is a rugged, low-lying rise on the northwestern coast of Santa Cruz Island in the Galápagos, named for its most iconic residents—the Galápagos land iguanas (Conolophus subcristatus).

The area is a conservation success story: in the 1970s, feral dogs nearly wiped out the local iguana population. Thanks to the efforts of the Charles Darwin Foundation and the Galápagos National Park, captive breeding and reintroduction programs have restored the population, and today, Dragon Hill is one of the best places to observe these prehistoric-looking reptiles in the wild.

The land iguanas here roam through arid terrain dotted with Opuntia cacti, their primary food source. With their spiny crests, powerful limbs, and yellow-orange scales, they resemble miniature dragons—hence the hill’s name. Visitors hiking the trail around Dragon Hill often spot iguanas basking on sunlit rocks or retreating into burrows. The trail also passes through a forest of Palo Santo trees and saltwater lagoons, where flamingos and pintail ducks may appear, adding to the site’s rich biodiversity.

Dragon Hill isn’t just a haven for iguanas—it’s a living classroom for understanding island ecology and species recovery. Scientists continue to monitor the iguana population, and new individuals are occasionally released to maintain genetic diversity. The site offers a rare opportunity for tourists and researchers to share space, observing firsthand how conservation and evolution intertwine. With panoramic views of the bay and a landscape shaped by resilience, Dragon Hill stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the Galápagos.

M/V Galapagos Legend near Santa Cruz Island

Disembarking on Santa Cruz Island
Here begins the trail that leads to Dragon Hill.

Small Ground Finch
The Small Ground Finch (Geospiza fuliginosa) is one of Darwin’s iconic finches and a common sight on Santa Cruz Island in the Galápagos.

As the smallest of the ground finches, it measures about 11 cm in length and is easily recognized by its short, pointed beak—perfectly adapted for feeding on small seeds. Males are jet black with white-tipped undertail feathers, while females and juveniles display streaked brown plumage that blends well with the dry scrub and forested areas of Santa Cruz. Their presence across both lowland and highland zones reflects their adaptability to a range of microhabitats.
On Santa Cruz, G. fuliginosa plays a vital ecological role. It feeds primarily on seeds, but also consumes insects and occasionally parasites from the skin of land iguanas and tortoises—a behavior that highlights its opportunistic foraging strategy. In areas where it coexists with other finch species like the Medium Ground Finch (G. fortis), the Small Ground Finch tends to exhibit more specialized beak shapes to reduce competition. This subtle divergence in morphology is a textbook example of adaptive radiation, one of the key concepts Darwin explored during his time in the Galápagos.
The finch’s social behavior is equally fascinating. It nests in shrubs or trees, often building dome-shaped nests lined with feathers and plant fibers. Breeding occurs during the rainy season when food is abundant, and pairs may raise multiple broods. Vocalizations are used to defend territory and attract mates, with each island population exhibiting slight variations in song. On Santa Cruz, the Small Ground Finch is not just a bird—it’s a living symbol of evolution in action, quietly shaping and being shaped by the island’s dynamic environment.

Galapagos Orb Weaver
The Galápagos Orb Weaver (Araneus galapagoensis) is a native spider species found across several islands in the Galápagos, including Santa Cruz.

As a member of the Araneidae family, it’s known for its intricate, wheel-shaped webs that shimmer in the sunlight and serve as highly effective insect traps. On Santa Cruz Island, these spiders are commonly found in lowland scrub, cactus forests, and even near human settlements, where they anchor their webs between branches, shrubs, or man-made structures. Their presence is subtle but ecologically important, helping regulate insect populations and contributing to the island’s delicate food web.
Physically, A. galapagoensis is relatively small, with females being larger than males—a common trait among orb weavers. Their coloration ranges from pale yellow to brown, often with mottled patterns that provide camouflage against bark and leaves. During the day, they typically retreat to sheltered spots near their webs, emerging at dusk to rebuild or repair their silk structures and hunt. The webs themselves are architectural marvels, often spanning several feet and capable of capturing a wide variety of flying insects, including mosquitoes, moths, and gnats.
Though not as iconic as the finches or tortoises, the Galápagos Orb Weaver plays a quiet but crucial role in maintaining ecological balance on Santa Cruz. Its webs not only capture prey but also serve as microhabitats for other tiny organisms. Scientists studying these spiders have noted their evolutionary adaptations to the island’s unique conditions, including variations in web design and behavior. Observing one of these spiders in action—patiently waiting at the center of its web as the wind rustles the dry leaves—is a reminder of the intricate and often overlooked threads that hold the Galápagos ecosystem together.

Galapagos Garden Spider
The Galápagos Garden Spider (Argiope argentata), also known as the Silver Argiope, is a visually striking orb-weaver found across the Galápagos Islands, including Santa Cruz.

It’s easily recognized by its metallic silver cephalothorax and vividly striped abdomen, which features bands of yellow, orange, and black. These spiders typically build large, circular webs in open areas such as cactus forests, shrublands, and even near human dwellings. On Santa Cruz Island, they’re often seen suspended in the center of their webs, legs outstretched in an X-shaped posture, waiting patiently for prey.
One of the spider’s most distinctive features is the zigzag pattern of silk—called a stabilimentum—that it weaves into its web. This structure may serve multiple purposes: attracting insects by reflecting ultraviolet light, deterring predators, or reinforcing the web’s stability. Argiope argentata is a daytime hunter, capturing a wide range of flying insects including flies, moths, and bees. Though its venom is potent enough to immobilize prey, it poses no serious threat to humans. On Santa Cruz, its presence contributes to natural pest control, making it a quiet ally in maintaining ecological balance.
The species also exhibits dramatic sexual dimorphism: females are significantly larger and more colorful than males, who are often consumed after mating—a behavior known as sexual cannibalism. Egg sacs are typically hidden in vegetation near the web, where spiderlings hatch and disperse. The Galápagos Garden Spider’s ability to thrive in both wild and semi-urban environments on Santa Cruz speaks to its adaptability. As part of the island’s intricate web of life, Argiope argentata adds both beauty and biological function to the landscape, spinning silk that connects predator, prey, and place in a delicate evolutionary dance.

Galapagos Skimmer
The Galápagos Skimmer (Erythemis vesper) is a vibrant dragonfly species found across several islands in the Galápagos, including Santa Cruz Island.

As a member of the Libellulidae family, it’s known for its agile flight and metallic green thorax, which glints in the sunlight as it darts over freshwater pools and brackish lagoons. On Santa Cruz, this dragonfly is most commonly seen in the highlands and transitional zones, where seasonal rain creates temporary wetlands ideal for breeding and hunting. Despite its small size, it plays a significant role in the island’s ecosystem as both predator and prey.
In its adult form, E. vesper is a swift and precise hunter, feeding on mosquitoes, midges, and other small flying insects. Its presence helps regulate insect populations, especially in areas near human settlements or livestock, where pests can thrive. The dragonfly’s life cycle begins in water, where its aquatic nymphs (larvae) develop over several weeks or months before emerging as winged adults. These nymphs are also voracious predators, feeding on aquatic invertebrates and even small fish, making them important contributors to freshwater food webs on Santa Cruz.
Though not as iconic as the finches or tortoises, the Galápagos Skimmer adds a dynamic layer to Santa Cruz’s biodiversity. Its ability to thrive in ephemeral water sources and adapt to changing conditions reflects the resilience of life in the Galápagos. Researchers studying insect dispersal and island biogeography find E. vesper particularly intriguing due to its strong flight capabilities and wide distribution. Whether gliding over a quiet pond or resting on a sunlit leaf, the Galápagos Skimmer is a subtle yet vital thread in the ecological tapestry of Santa Cruz Island.

Panorama of lagoon near the coast

Black-necked Stilt
The Black-necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus) is an elegant shorebird that can be found in both saline and freshwater habitats across the Galápagos Islands, including Santa Cruz.

With its striking black-and-white plumage and impossibly long pink legs, it’s one of the most visually distinctive waders in the region. On Santa Cruz, it frequents coastal lagoons, brackish ponds, and seasonal wetlands, where it forages in shallow waters for aquatic invertebrates, small fish, and insects. Its high-pitched calls often echo across these quiet landscapes, adding a lively soundtrack to the island’s tranquil shores.
Breeding from December to June, the Black-necked Stilt nests in open ground near water, laying clutches of up to five eggs. Both parents share incubation duties and fiercely defend their nests from predators and intruders. On Santa Cruz, nesting sites are often found near the highland lagoons or lowland salt flats, where the birds take advantage of seasonal water availability. Their long legs allow them to wade through deeper water than many other shorebirds, giving them access to a broader range of feeding grounds. The chicks are precocial, meaning they hatch with downy feathers and are able to walk and feed themselves shortly after birth.
Though not endemic to the Galápagos, the Black-necked Stilt is considered a native resident and plays an important role in the island’s wetland ecosystems. Its presence on Santa Cruz highlights the island’s ecological diversity, especially in transitional zones where freshwater meets saltwater. Conservation of these habitats is crucial, as they support not only stilts but also flamingos, pintail ducks, and other waterbirds. Watching a stilt delicately pick its way through a shimmering lagoon is a reminder of the grace and adaptability that define life in the Galápagos.

Galapagos Land Iguana
The Galápagos Land Iguana (Conolophus subcristatus) is a striking reptile native to several islands in the archipelago, including Santa Cruz.

On this island, the species inhabits the dry lowlands, where it thrives in arid scrubland and cactus-studded terrain. These iguanas are easily recognized by their yellow-orange bellies, reddish-brown backs, and spiny dorsal crests. Adults can reach lengths of up to 1.5 meters and weigh as much as 13 kilograms, making them one of the largest land-dwelling reptiles in the region. Their slow, deliberate movements and prehistoric appearance make them a favorite among visitors and researchers alike.
Santa Cruz’s population of C. subcristatus has faced significant challenges over the years. In the mid-20th century, feral dogs and habitat degradation nearly wiped out the species from the island. Conservation efforts, including captive breeding and reintroduction programs led by the Charles Darwin Foundation and Galápagos National Park, have helped restore the population—particularly around Dragon Hill, a key reintroduction site. Today, land iguanas are once again seen basking on lava rocks and foraging among Opuntia cacti, which provide both food and hydration in the island’s dry climate.
These iguanas are primarily herbivorous, feeding on cactus pads, fruits, and flowers, though they occasionally consume insects and carrion. They dig burrows to escape the heat and predators, and females travel long distances to find suitable nesting sites, laying up to 20 eggs that incubate for several months. Males are territorial and engage in head-bobbing displays and physical confrontations during the breeding season. The survival of Conolophus subcristatus on Santa Cruz is a testament to the resilience of island species and the power of targeted conservation in preserving Galápagos biodiversity.

Galapagos Land Iguana

Galápagos Mockingbird
The Galápagos Mockingbird (Mimus parvulus) is the most widespread of the four mockingbird species endemic to the Galápagos Islands, and Santa Cruz Island hosts its own subspecies, M. p. parvulus.

These birds are medium-sized, with long tails, slender decurved bills, and a distinctive black mask across the eyes. Their plumage is a mix of grayish-brown upperparts and whitish underparts, often with faint streaking on the breast. Agile and inquisitive, they are frequently seen foraging on the ground or perched atop cactus pads and shrubs, surveying their surroundings with sharp, intelligent eyes.
On Santa Cruz, the Galápagos Mockingbird thrives in dry lowland habitats, particularly areas with scattered Opuntia cacti and acacia trees. It is an omnivore, feeding on insects, seeds, fruits, and occasionally small reptiles or carrion. Remarkably, mockingbirds in the Galápagos have been observed engaging in opportunistic behaviors such as pecking parasites off iguanas and even drinking blood from wounds—a reflection of their adaptability in resource-scarce environments. Their role in the ecosystem is multifaceted, contributing to seed dispersal, insect control, and even symbiotic interactions with other species.
Socially, Mimus parvulus is a cooperative breeder, forming territorial groups that include multiple breeding pairs and helpers. These helpers assist in feeding and protecting the young, increasing the survival rate of fledglings in the harsh island conditions. Nests are typically built in cactus branches or low shrubs, and the birds are known to fiercely defend their territory from intruders. On Santa Cruz, their varied vocalizations—from melodic whistles to harsh chatters—add a lively soundtrack to the arid landscape. As both a symbol of Darwin’s evolutionary insights and a resilient island resident, the Galápagos Mockingbird continues to captivate scientists and visitors alike.

Galapagos Land Iguana

View from the top of Dragon Hill to the coast

Land Iguana burrows
On Santa Cruz Island, the Galápagos Land Iguana (Conolophus subcristatus) relies heavily on burrows for survival in the island’s arid lowland habitats.

These burrows are typically dug into sandy or volcanic soil and serve as essential shelters from the intense equatorial sun and nighttime predators. Iguanas are cold-blooded reptiles, so they use these underground refuges to regulate their body temperature—emerging in the morning to bask on sunlit rocks and retreating during the hottest parts of the day. The burrows also offer protection during the cooler nights, helping the iguanas conserve heat absorbed during daylight hours.
During the breeding season, female land iguanas use burrows not just for shelter but as nesting sites. They travel considerable distances—sometimes up to nine miles—in search of suitable soil conditions for laying eggs. Once a site is chosen, the female excavates a deep hole, often around 18 inches, and deposits between 2 and 25 eggs. These eggs incubate underground for approximately 100 days, relying on the burrow’s stable temperature and humidity to develop properly. The nesting burrows are fiercely guarded for a short period to prevent other females from laying in the same spot, ensuring the survival of the clutch.
Historically, land iguana burrows were so abundant on Santa Cruz that Charles Darwin himself noted the difficulty of finding a place to pitch a tent due to their density. However, populations declined dramatically due to introduced predators like rats, cats, and dogs, which preyed on eggs and juveniles. Thanks to conservation efforts—including habitat restoration and predator control—the land iguanas have made a comeback, particularly around areas like Dragon Hill. Today, their burrows remain a vital part of the island’s ecosystem, offering not only shelter and nesting grounds but also a glimpse into the resilience of one of the Galápagos’ most iconic reptiles.

Galapagos Land Iguana

Land Iguana burrow

Galapagos Land Iguana

Black-necked Stilt

Marine Iguana
The Marine Iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus) is one of the most iconic and unique reptiles of the Galápagos Islands, and Santa Cruz Island is home to its own subspecies, A. c. hassi.

These iguanas are the only lizards in the world that forage in the sea, feeding almost exclusively on marine algae. On Santa Cruz, they are commonly found along rocky coastlines, basking in the sun to warm up after cold dives into the ocean. Their dark coloration helps absorb heat quickly, and their flattened tails and strong claws make them excellent swimmers, able to navigate strong currents while grazing on submerged rocks.
The Santa Cruz subspecies is particularly notable for its coloration during the mating season. Males turn a striking mix of red and black, a visual cue used in territorial displays and courtship rituals. These iguanas are not highly social, but they are gregarious—often seen clustered together on lava rocks, especially during cooler nights when they huddle for warmth. Despite their rugged appearance, they are vulnerable to environmental stressors. El Niño events can drastically reduce algae availability, leading to starvation, and introduced predators like rats and feral cats pose a serious threat to eggs and juveniles.
Conservation efforts on Santa Cruz have focused on habitat protection and invasive species control to support the marine iguana population. The subspecies A. c. hassi is currently listed as Endangered due to its limited range and susceptibility to climate fluctuations and human impact. Visitors to Santa Cruz can observe these remarkable reptiles in places like Tortuga Bay or Punta Estrada, where they bask, feed, and occasionally sneeze out salt—a quirky behavior that helps regulate their internal salt levels. The Marine Iguana is not just a symbol of Galápagos biodiversity but a living example of evolutionary adaptation to one of the planet’s most challenging environments.